14 plywood boat plans,fishing trips west palm beach fl obituaries,used boats in brunswick ga 5k - For Begninners

Published 20.10.2014 | Author : admin | Category : Simple Boat Plans

Location: Boksburg South Africa 14 foot plywood dinghy sailplan After 40 years of sailing other designer's dinghies, I decided to design my own 14 foot plywood dinghy. The closest boat out there is the phantom, but I have moved the widest point back and made the entry sharper and longer. A lot of mast rake to reduce the load on side stays, as the hull is fairly narrow in the side stay area. I weigh in at 100kg, so I want to initially sail on my own, but the cockpit is roomy enough to sail as a 2 up without trapeze or spinaker. Location: USA Here's another on the same idea of a high performance 14' planing dinghy. I chose the construction method of the Phantom as I have previously built a Phantom and found it a quick and easy method.
Too much mast rake will affect downwind speed, and make main sail hard to set effectively down wind in the light.
Look at the newer international 14s, they have moved the mast well aft to increase jib area, which would get your stays to a wider point on the boat. If you mostly plan to sail alone, I would strongly suggest a self tacking jib, or at very least lead the jib sheets further back than normal to allow you to quickly access them after tacking. It may just be the angle of the drawing, but the centreboard looks a long way aft for a sloop rig.
Originally Posted by JRD If you mostly plan to sail alone, I would strongly suggest a self tacking jib, On a singlehanded boat without a spinnaker a self tacking jib is very much a mixed blessing, which is why most International Canoes don't have them. An overlapping jib is probably not a good idea since it will dump you in the water, is more difficult to set and prone to snags. If you don't plan to use a trapeze and your boat is well constructed with decent structure to support the rig loads then you probably don't need to worry too much about the staying base. Location: Boksburg South Africa A pic of the enigma hull Thanks for all the advice. The ends of the sheets should also be tied with shockcord across to the weather deck to make them reachable.
Just from a glance, that fine bow doesn't appear to have huge amounts of reserve buoyancy up front - fine, but you will be able to drive the bow right into waves and have lots of water passing through & over. If you use a sailmaker who has experience with the squaretops - Glaser, North Suncoast etc., you should not have to pay a huge premium for the sail - square footage is square footage. Make sure your sailmaker knows exactly what tube (mast) you are using and it's characteristics.


Location: New Zealand Nice work, its always great to see someone who has followed through with their plans and built something to their design.
Something I forgot to mention with sqaure top mains is that they are generally matched with carbon fibre masts that are quite stiff.
If you are trying to keep your costs right down, an untapered mast along with dacron sail will be the cheapest.
Another boat you could have a look at for ideas is the New Zealand Jollyboat designed by John Spencer. I agree with g Guest that the self tacking jib can be a mixed blessing but my boat was originally an NS14 which I sailed one up with a standard non overlapping jib (No track).
If you are just cruising in straight lines alot its good, but if you are racing and doing alot of manouvures then you may find that the benefits of having an overlapping simply rigged jib will be outweighed by the amount of time you spend sailing at half speed while you are trying to handle two sails at once. Whilst I have not seen one first hand I understand that the Swift-Solo has the jib rigged to trim in tune with the mainsail with a single sheet and some adjustments on the relative tension of both sails. Originally Posted by slomoshun I intend to use a jib with a long foot to make the jib sheets easier to reach.The ends of the sheets should also be tied with shockcord across to the weather deck to make them reachable.
Rather than shockcord the ends of separate sheets I would use a continuous sheet on a boat like yours. I don't know I'd want to advise you on what jib setting system to use other than to have a none overlapping jib. Location: UK I agree with others here that its good to see someone actually building according to their ideas rather than just speculating about performance. One thing I dont understand is that you intend to have mast rake to reduce load on the side stays.
If you do decide to fit this dinghy with sitting out racks then you could obviously extend the racks sufficiently far forward that the shrouds can be attached to them giving a good wide shroud base. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
However the Canoe does have the advantage that the sliding seat is used to help sheet the jib in after the tack. You should talk to your mast supplier and sail maker to make sure what you are ordering will work together which ever sail profile you choose.
Im not sure how Dacron would go with a square top main, as they are ussually based on film composite sails with full length battens.
These have very simple construction and have a relatively low cost rig and plywood construction, and they are annoyingly quick to race against, with and without a crew, so have some similarities with what you are building.


Tacking was a pain and not being able to ease it quickly in gusts also made the boat prone to being knocked down a bit in gusts.
The easy way to rig this is to have a single long sheet which stays on the boat and a short length of line which stays attached to the jib clew by looping it through so there are two short tails. I also find it instructive that people, even Olympic sailors, don't sail two handed boats adjusting the jib exactly in sync with the mainsheet all the way up the beat.
On the other hand, with such a triangular shaped hull as seen from above, you might find that you dont really use the forward part of the racks for sitting out, in which case you could save some weight and windage by having relatively short racks not extending as far forward as the shrouds. If you're pontoon is in need of a little tlc and you need new decking, we're the guys to talk to! The building of boats is ever new with techniques and materials constantly being developed.
Use a sheet bend (better a double sheet bend) to attach each short tail to each end of the jib sheet.
There are three possibilities I guess, self tacking jib on a track, self tacking jib on a spar (club foot) and non self tacking.
If you have too much area at the top for the mast bend then the sail will twist off and depower before you run out of sitting out power no matter how much kicker you use, whereas if you have too little then the rig won't dump power well and be much harder work to sail.
It has numerous advantages including a more effective planform and automatic gust response. The typical setup on ICs is to have a barber hauler or similar arrangement just in front of the mast which adjusts to control leech tension and sheeting angle to get the sail to set correctly, and then have the sheets run back to a turning block and cleat much further aft to put them in the right place to sail the boat. Its less string in the boat, no need to figure out which rope to pick up (its suprisingly easy to grab the wrong one even if they are different colours!) and very staightforward to rig and derig. The club foot is probably least efficient, but on a boat intended for recreational cruising sailing its really convenient and its nice to be able to just roll the sail round the spar at the end of the day (assuming a rope luff and a separate forestay with the wire in). For a serious racing boat I am convinced that the non-self tacking jib with barber hauler etc gives the best control of the sail shape and thus upwind performance.



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