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Published 18.08.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Plywood Jon Boat Plans

Location: New Zealand Have a look at these hulls, better than a flat bottom less hp to drive and greater stability! Lemme see if I can get an image or two uploaded here just to keep the thread up to date eh?
Of course Now she weighs so much that the lil 25 hp Mariner just wouldn't quite plane her with anything but me aboard - so much as a stiff headwind would knock me off plane and one passenger turned her into a slug displacement 6 knot vessel that drank fuel like it was going outta style.
For anyone contemplating building thier own alloy boat from a kit - there are a series of two Aussie boating magazine articles, where the female editor welded up her own 4.75 meter (16 ft) boat from one of CDM's Plasma cut kits. You can get back issues of the two magazines containing the articles &photo's on the CDM plate boat project below. You'd need the back issues numbers 61 from Jan 2001 & 62 from Feb 2001 available online thru the backissues order link off the mainpage link above to read up and get an idea of how hard or easy such a project can be. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Installation on the following types of boats is simple and usual requires hand sawing of up to 4 pieces of metal tubing. Please read the manual or watch the video BEFORE placing your order, as it DOES REQUIRE ASSEMBLY! If your boat is carpeted, make sure you do not have any carpet between the "lip" of the RivNut and the decking. Carpet-A section of the carpet will need to be trimmed away the same size as the base plate before installation. Other things to be aware of-Don’t rush through the installation of your QuickSet Blind.
The QuickSet blind will work well with any of them with little or no modification necessary. Long tail motors are a different situation as the long handle can hit the rear of the frame when the blind is down and you are driving the boat. This is not an issue but modification of the frame and flip top on the side with the console is required.
You can cut out a section of the plywood and mount the base plate conventionally with the riv nut system or you can use self tapping screws and leave the plywood in place.


Conventional mounting of the base plates to a deck surface requires the use of epoxy in conjunction with the riv nut so it will hold in fiberglass.
You will cost yourself a lot more time if you do, take it slowly and be sure to place all the various parts on the frame before closing it in. We recommend one kit for each side of the blind if heavy coverage is your goal, one kit works well to add depth. Therefore, we strongly recommend viewing the installation video or reading the installation manual BEFORE placing your order. There are two ways to handle this situation, (1) Use the Mud Motor Conversion kit that is a u-shaped bracket that replaces the rear frame rail or (2) modify the rear rail to be open when the blind is in the down position. The produce a mounting bracket for the QuickSet blind that can be used with many makes of boats. Many fiberglass boats such as Carolina Skiffs for example have wide gunwales that the base plates can be bolted into. For example, put the hinges on both front and rear, slide the ball snuggers and sound stoppers on the frame, put the top straps on the frame and then over the flip tops before closing them, and slide the frame stabilizer bars and clips into place on the frame. Many v-hulls have front benches that are compatable to QuickSet mounting as long as the bench is a minimum of 36” across the rear. No special tools are required, often there will be a space on the front of the boat trailer where the tubing can be wedged and bent. Holes will need to be drilled through the plywood before inserting the screws through the base plate holes and driiling them into the aluminum surface.
Wider beamed boats can still use the QuickSet Blind, however the CamoNet will be short in the rear when the fip tops are raised. KW-1 works best in a deadgrass environment while Marsh Grass has more brown and green coloration.
Some v-hulls are open in the front, a set of QuickSet Mounting Brackets can be used in this case mounted underneath the gunwale and into the side of the boat.
Make sure you space the ball snuggers out so you will have one every 2’ or so when you roll the net and windblocker around the frame.
These can also be used in the rear as well if there is not a flat surface to mount the base plates to.


Before you lower the blind, simply remove that section and you are ready to steer the long tail motor. It is very common for the rear of a boat to be wider than the front, this is not a problem. If you forget a snugger or want to attach more, the easiest way is to untie the knot inside the ball and re-tie it once the snugger is in the correct place. When you are ready to install the set screws, pre-drill the small holes in the tubing before screwing them in. This will attach the Killerweed to the net and allow it to expand while being able to roll it up easily into the CamoNet for travel. Additional parts can always be purchased through Avery Customer Service by calling 800-333-5119 with your credit card number. Before drilling the holes that will allow the hinges on the top of the leg assemblies to be bolted to the frame, make sure you mark them while the frame is down. The Avery QuickSet Blind is easy to use, easy to store, and the perfect solution to putting you where the ducks and geese want to be. Diagrams 3 and 4 are typical modified v jon boat designs and mounting is very similar to the flat jon. Remember that the leg assemblies must oppose each other so all of the legs need to fold down towards the center of the boat. Never store your CamoNet in open sunlight as the UV rays can cause fading and color change on the nylap. The net will overlap both front and rear in most cases, all depending on the length and width of the frame. You may have enough CamoNet to cover your front deck completely and your motor as well, then again you may not.



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