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Published 09.12.2014 | Author : admin | Category : Simple Boat Plans

Although the pond is probably too small, it is a good visual motivation as I walk past it to get to work every day. The Jet intake was sanded up to 1000grit and polished with a metal polish and a buffing wheel. I attatched an electric drill to the shaft of the jet drive and tried it out in the bath tub. I've redesigned the stator, impeller and nozzel to see if I can reduced the swirl without needing a honeycomb.
One of the reasons for taking so long was that I decided to make two extra pumps for some friends of mine. I tested out the engine, pump and hull in the water without radio gear to make sure everything was ok.
The 55 went a bit faster than the 50mm but alot faster than the 45mm pitch so I'm guessing that a 53mm would be optimal. I tried reducing the nozzle diameter to make the boat go faster but it just made it very hard to steer the boat.
Location: Oregon Aluminum Jet Boat Plans I have made a futile attempt at finding plans for an aluminum jet sled.
Location: Alaska jet sled plans Trigger, it might help if you could give a bit of back ground, have you built a welded aluminum boat before this project? Its easier, on all forums, for anyone who might offer information to form a good quality response when you provide more precise details. You should determine EXACTLy what you'll do and what you'd hire out, especially as regard the cutting of the parts; hull panels, frames and bulkheads.
Since you're looking for an almost flat bottomed sled with little or no V section forward, the hull is much more simple to build. All these items will help refine the work of selecting a plans package, or help you to submit them to someone to design one for you. Location: Alaska marine design software Trigger, this forum has a rousing ongoing discussion of marine design software and will be of good assistance in trying to select a package. What I suggest you keep in mind is the design cycle, which doesn't get the press it should. It too easy to get sucked into a method where you rely on the PC's lines to start your boat, if you don't draw well by hand at least get some battens and work with them by hand-then enter the PC. If you follow a design cycle with some care you can avoid redrawing parts of your boat that were not clearly thoughtout in a previous (more initial) stage of your design work. I also suggest that you avoid a V in the after bottom sections -convex camber runs better under sleds and then bring in the V forward amidships section.
Location: Alaska jet sled design procedure Trigger, I read on some of the forums remarks about the different marine software packages and one remark kind of stands out.
I want to discourage you from taking this time as I've spent hundreds of hours downloading and setting up tests of features lists and tool functionality. I can summarize it all by saying the remark (unattributed to its wise author) is true as far as I can say.
If I could suggest any package it would be the package of software that seems the most obvious to you. I've worked in Prosurf, MaxSurf, Rhino and several of the others until I'm blue in the mouse hand.


How do you interact and what work flow method is required to draw a boat in this package or that? Location: Alaska Aluminum extrusions at the chine Trigger, many highly regarded production builders use an extrusion at the chine which holds the bottom AND the side. I would suggest that it is poor practice to incorporate this into your design for several reasons. I think hull seams should be fully welded inside and out AND the appearance of a weld is 'welded'. The edge of 5052 plate has experienced exfoliation (peeling into layers) when it was used in these extrusions in salt water although it took a decade to show up. The edge of the side and the edge of the bottom plates are NOT welded in the slotted chine hull joint. I know other builders who are certain that the weld near but not on the edge of the plate makes the remaining fraction of an inch of plate loose its heat treatment without being mixed in the puddle and fused to another plate. My experience is very limited with this method of building, but I'd like to encourage you to seriously consider the advantages of inside and outside welding instead of just inside welding between the two differing alloys.
I have built a few skiffs that were lost in a storm while towing in the Gulf of AK, one was found years later on the bottom of a log pile.
Location: Southern Oregon Interesting to hear the other side of the coin on this one.
Location: British Columbia, Canada I have some experience with the phenomenon known as crevice corrosion.
Location: Southern Oregon Good Info JD, Something I have not seen but definately makes sense. Location: Alaska chine extrusions benefits Joey, good points about the benefits of chine extrusions regarding set up, fairing and aid in building.
Almost always built with a crew of a few and most often hanging sides was done with four guys. I think a stringer type bead, fast hot and drag style along the outside of the slotted chine would allow the one-off builder or working team to have the advantage of the setup without building a weaker joint. Your observation is right on for a single chine sled shaped hull; the slotted chine extrusion would save lots of build effort and often these boats spend considerable time in fresh water.
My preference for a cover angle shape welded over an inside edge to inside edge then double welded joint is likely overbuilding; due to long association with Alaskan commercial fishermen. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Maryland You may want to look at getting a engine-jet unit out of a jet ski. Location: British Columbia, Canada I have heard of people sucking small gravel into the jet intake in shallows too.
I pretty much have my mind made up im going ahead with a monohull welded jon boat design.I have looked at countless sights on the web and Im finding that hard numbers for a 16 ft. I missed seeing this thread earlier so maybe your boat is done now and my comment will be of no use.
The hull has been fiber-glassed and few more trimmings have been added to the hull construction. In the end, I think this is what will be more productive for you, choosing the software that is the closest to your 'way of thinking'.


The lap weld occurs some two or three thicknesses back from the edge of the plate and then it occurs between 6061 or 6063 depending on the alloy of the chine extrusion and the 5086 or 5052 hull plates.
If you only weld one side of a slotted chine extrusion, there is a risk of creating an oxygen depleted area that is exposed to seawater. CANADA Thanks for your responses.Im hoping to start drawing the new boat this weekend. I assume that the shape you are using is half of a cone so that both the width and the height gets smaller. The oxide layer on the aluminum sloughs off or is rubbed off by a small amount of flexing in the chine and can't be replaced in the expected way. Maybe even a paddle-wheel arrangement (seems like the perfect thing for shallow rivers, eh?). If you look under the inboard utilities & runabouts you'll find designs that could be easily developed in aluminum. Does anyone make a tunnel so that the area stays realatively constant throughout its lenght.
Then other insignificant sources of corrosion (the tiny copper content of 60 series extrustions for example) can become major propblems. And if you want a boat that can also run up on the gravel shingle, particularly look at his Sea Bright Skiff tunnel designs (also protect the propeller really well). It would seem that it would help ram water into the void to fill the tunnel no matter its height (similar to some air inducted hoods). You might be able to use a slow turning prop with a big surface area partially submerged, akin to a surface drive.
One nice thing about Atkin designs - they're tried and tested and the ones on the website are intended for home builders.
I'm leaning towards ProChine3 as it looks like a decent low budget start, but no firm decision yet. If, on the other hand, you choose poooorrrly, you'll become adveserial toward the publisher and the software. When you put a tunnel into a hull, particularly in a small boat you sacrifice valuable buoyancy.
All the Sea Bright tunnel drives handle rough water (as much as you'll find in your fishing area) very well.
I want to do as much as I can with the build, but the more info as in lines, framing, plate development the better.
I will definetely be around this place, I have alot to learn and there is alot of knowledge here. In a small boat like you want, you might just be able to use a regular outboard with a shallow draft johnboat. You could put an extended skeg on the leg to warn you when you're getting into trouble, maybe even rig it so your motor tilts up when the skeg drags on something (reversing would be a bugger though, if the leg is free).



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