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Published 20.03.2014 | Author : admin | Category : Wooden Boat Building Kits

When we purchased our house last year, the previous owner mentioned that during prolonged periods of rain the below-grade slab beneath the house (garage, basement) becomes “damp.” We had just such a period this spring, and damp = about three inches of water. Our house is surrounded on three sides by typical California concrete hardscaped patio, backed by concrete block retaining walls (house is set into a small hill).
When the house was built, the concrete patio was engineered so that water flows away from the house, with a half-step down between the back of the house and each side. I want to keep the water out of our basement, but do not want to resort to water proofing the entire foundation (expensive), or sawing concrete and installing drains (less expensive). I don't know the shape or height of the deck, so this may not make sense but what about some of that corrugated fiberglass sheeting installed on an angle below the deck boards? I assume since you say your house is set into a hill, that the house is higher than the water table after significant rains?
My current house is set into a hill and had some drainage issues which we took care of by trenching, installing PVC pipe to carry everything to the street and a sump pump at the lowest level.
I do not believe that there is a significant amount of water coming into through the foundation from the hill at the back of the house, as there’s hardpan clay after a foot or so of friable soil: I am not a hydrologist, so I may be completely misguided about this. Well, water still moves through clay, and clay can hold quite a bit of it- (one of the reasons clay soils on slopes are prone to slippage). Where I live, it is no longer allowed to drain water off one's property; if you do any sort of work that requires a permit, you've got to re-engineer your drainage so that all water collected on site stays on site. Could you install a dry well where the water collects (or right in front of it) and run any gutters toward it as well?
You said you don't want to saw concrete, but the best solution is probably going to be to have the deck taken out.
If you need to re-slope the concrete, you can buy repair mortars that are suitable for thin coating applications (usually some sort of epoxy modified concrete). Also, when you say the slab has receded, does that mean it's settled or that voids have developed beneath it? It's durable, and also, when covered with gravel as I plan to do, not going to get hit with UV rays like an exposed roof, so I imagine it'll last a long time. About the slope in back of the house: If there's water coming off the slope that's infiltrating under the patio slab, could that be be fixed by French drains, or even swales?
What to do with the rainwater: It'd be great to capture it in a catch basin of some sort and use it for gardening. Water table: Heh, heh, I don't think there's much of a water table in our southern California back yard to worry about. I would definitely investigate the mudjacking, it's probably not as expensive as you think.
Although you could probably build the deck on top of the slab, it's hard to say whether or not you'll get a building inspector that insists on dug footers. If you're concerned about the joint between the slab and the foundation, you can put in an expansion joint by stuffing it with polyurethane backer rod and filling it with caulk. The big caveat to all this advice is that without seeing the layout of your yard and the condition of the slab, it's almost impossible to tell you what to do. You're probably right, since you know where your house is, but don't assume SoCal = no water table. Ask MetaFilter is a question and answer site that covers nearly any question on earth, where members help each other solve problems. Here in Part 3 of sealing the cracked block on my Onan 30EK generator set, I describe the preparation process and show the way I mix and apply JB Weld to the crack. In Part 1, I show how I flushed the block and in Part 2 how I sealed it on the inside, first. GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 2TROUBLESHOOTING TOOLS AND SAFETYTIPS AND TRICKSLets talk aluminum foil for a minute.
I believe rain water is entering through two locations: (1) at the concrete block foundation-concrete patio interface, and (2) through several hairline cracks in the patio slab. Water is meant to run off the back of the patio to the sides, emptying off the side of the patio to the street, but after almost six decades of seismic activity some of the slab has receded an inch or so here and there, and now about an inch of water collects near the foundation when it rains, rather than pouring off the front of the patio (most water does pour of the front).
I want to know if the following idea makes sense as less expensive solution that leaves the existing concrete intact. Pour a thin layer of pebble gravel on the patio and grade so that it slopes away from the house, using a level.
Lay a flexible, waterproof fabric over the gravel, coving the fabric up the side of the concrete block of the foundation. For aesthetics, pour another thin layer of gravel over the membrane, and then add a low lying deck to protect and cover the gravel (we wanted to hide the concrete anyway).
Have an engineer come take a look before you build a deck that ends up getting ripped out next January.
We have some fairly shitty drainage issues here (in NH) and I've been looking at dry wells and drainage tiles. And if it starts leaking after a few years, I could just remove the top gravel layer and recoat (but I don't think that'll be necessary). I have a landscape architect who's coming to take a look, so perhaps she'll know what the best practice is for our situation. I'm not too worried about piping water to the street, as that's what's happening now (just not very efficiently).
At this point, the patio should be waterproof, and the foundation-patio interface protected. Susan Carpenter at the LA Times had an article a while back about her 3000 gallon infiltration pit and installation etc, but can't find it online. But even in an oven with natural convection, it can mess up airflow and cooking and even cause burners to malfunction. This is important not only to help with the water in your basement, but to keep your retaining walls intact. If you simply must line the bottom of your oven with foil, at least poke holes in it where there are holes in the oven floor. They're there for a reason.2-1 BASIC REPAIR AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS1) When working on gas cooking equipment, if you've disconnected a gas pipe to replace a valve or other component, always test the pipe joint for leaks when you reassemble it. That had a waterproof deck coating (a kind of plastic paint, with some kind of membrane underneath), but my memory is foggy on the details. You can do this by coating the joint with a solution of liquid soap and water and looking for bubbles. I do remember that it was more trouble than it was worth though, as it got weakened pretty fast by harsh sun exposure.


Apply it with a brush to make sure you coat the joint thoroughly, and use a mirror to look at the back side of the joint if necessary. Your appliance parts dealer has gas leak testing solution, with a brush built into the cap, made specifically for this purpose. 2) Always de-energize (pull the plug or trip the breaker on) any oven that you're disassembling. If you need to re-energize the oven to perform a test, make sure any bare wires or terminals are taped or insulated. Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. 3) If this manual advocates replacing the part, REPLACE IT!! There is a reason that it stopped - you can bet on it - and if you get it going and re-install it, you are running a very high risk that it will fail again. Replace the part. 4) Always replace the green (ground) leads when you remove an electrical component. Wear gloves, and be careful not to cut your hands! 6) If you have diagnosed a certain part to be bad, but you cannot figure out how to remove it, sometimes it helps to get the new part and examine it for mounting holes or other clues as to how it may be mounted. 7) When testing for a 110 volt power supply from a wall outlet, you can plug in a small appliance such as a shaver or blow dryer. If you're testing for 220 volt power you need to use the VOM. 8) When splicing wires in an oven, remember that you're dealing with high temperatures.
Your parts dealer has high-temp connections, porcelain wire nuts and fiberglass-insulated wire for this purpose. I want to impress upon you something really important. It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good. However, you don't want to badger them with too many questions, so know your basics before you start asking questions. Some parts houses may offer service, too. They'll tell you it's too complicated, then in the same breath "guide" you to their service department.
If they genuinely try to help you fix it yourself, and you find that you're unable to, they may be the best place to look for service.
On some models, you will also need the lot number to get the right part, so if there is one on the nameplate, write that down, too.2-3 TOOLS (Figure 2-A)Most of the tools that you might need are shown below.
An inexpensive one will suffice, as long as it has both "AC Voltage" and "Resistance" (i.e. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked.
Remember the rule in section 2-1; while you are working on a circuit, energize the circuit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then take the power back off it to perform the repair. You will only need to be able to set the VOM onto the right scale, touch the test leads to the right place and read the meter.In using the VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter) for our purposes, the two test leads are always plugged into the "+" and "-" holes on the VOM. It's derived from the word "continuous." In an electrical circuit, electricity has to flow from a power source back to that power source.
It should peg the meter all the way on the right side of the scale, towards "0" on the meter's "resistance" or "ohms" scale.
If the meter does not read zero ohms, adjust the thumbwheel on the front of the VOM until it does read zero. If the ignitor's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something. You can touch the ends of the wires and test leads with your hands if necessary to get better contact. If there is GOOD continuity, the meter will move toward the right side of the scale and steady on a reading. This is the resistance reading and it doesn't concern us; we only care that we show good continuity. If you do not, the switch is bad. 2-4(c) AMMETERSAmmeters are a little bit more complex to explain without going into a lot of electrical theory. If you own an ammeter, you probably already know how to use it. If you don't, don't get one.
To determine continuity, for our purposes, we can simply isolate the component that we're testing (so we do not accidentally measure the current going through any other components) and see if there's any current flow. To use your ammeter, first make sure that it's on an appropriate scale (0 to 10 or 20 amps will do). If the meter shows any reading at all, something in the oven is using power.2-5 WIRING DIAGRAMSometimes you need to read a wiring diagram, to make sure you are not forgetting to check something.
The symbols used to represent each component are pretty universal. Wire colors are abbreviated and shown next to each wire. GR or GN are green, GY is gray.A wire color with a dash or a slash means --- with a --- stripe.
In some wiring diagrams, wiring and switches inside a timer or other switchblocks are drawn with lines that are thicker than the rest of the wiring. The small white circles all over the diagram are terminals. These are places where you can disconnect the wire from the component for testing purposes.
If two wires cross on the diagram without a black dot, they are not connected. Switches may be numbered or lettered. Usually the terminals on the outside of the timer or switch are stamped or printed with markings that you will see on the wiring diagram. To test a switch, mark and disconnect all the wires. For example, in figure 2-F, if you want to test the door switch, take power off the machine, disconnect the wires from it and connect one test lead to COM and one to NC. If it does, you know that contact inside the switch is good. Remember that for something to be energized, it must make a complete electrical circuit.
You must be able to trace the path that the electricity will take, FROM the wall outlet back TO the wall outlet.
In this simplified circuit diagram, notice that only the heating elements operate on 220 volts.
Since the locking mechanism is interlocked with the heating circuit, the oven will not reach cleaning temperature either.Let's start at the lock motor and find out which switches feed electricity to it.
Tracing the other lock motor lead, we first end up at the "C" terminal of the 4-position selector switch. Looking at the switch for the chart, the "C" to "LM" contacts are closed when the "clean" button is depressed on the switch.
Power then leaves the thermostat through the "5" terminal, so we need to check for continuity between terminals "5" and "6" of the thermostat. Since it is a thermostatic switch, only heat will open the switch, so we only need to test it for continuity. They are shown in the diagram in their "normal state." So continuing with our circuit, if the locking motor is not turning, you need to check switch "B" for continuity between the "COM" and "NC" terminals. If there is no continuity, it might mean the switch is bad. It might also mean that the switch was not returned to its "normal" state the last time it was activated!You need to examine the switch carefully to determine what the problem is.
If the locking motor stopped turning before the switch unlocked, you've got other problems.


You will need to trace other circuits in the diagram to figure out what. From the "COM" terminal of switch "B," the circuit goes back through the door switch to L1. The door switch feeds several other oven circuits, too, so unless there's something else not working, we can eliminate that as the problem. The door must be closed to close the switch that feeds electricity to the thermostats and heating circuit.To check for a wire break, you would pull each end of a wire off the component and test for continuity through the wire. You may need to use jumpers to extend or even bypass the wire; for example, if one end of the wire is in the control console and the other end in underneath the machine. It will then be up to you to figure out exactly where that break is - there is no magic way. An ammeter is a safer way to test energized circuits if you have one, especially testing 220 volt circuits.
Occasionally, if the component is inexpensive enough, it's easier to just replace it and see if that solves the problem. Following is a primer on how to test each individual component you might find in any given oven.
Take all wires off the component and test continuity across it as described in section 2-4(b). Switches should show good continuity when closed and no continuity when open. NO means "normally open" and with the switch at rest, you will see no continuity through it. SELECTOR SWITCHBLOCKS A selector switchblock, located in the control panel, is a group of switches all molded into one housing. In your oven, a switchblock might be used to allow you to choose a cooktop heat setting, for example, or a cleaning cycle instead of a baking cycle.
You must look at the wiring diagram to see which of the terminals will be connected when the internal switches are closed. Keep in mind, however, that you must also know which of the internal switches close when an external button is pressed. When you press one button on the switchblock, several of the switches inside may close at once.To test a switchblock, in addition to the wiring diagram, you must have a chart that gives you this info.
Usually this is a part of the wiring diagram. Using the diagram and chart in figure 2-J, lets say we want to test contacts "T1" to "FM" for proper operation.
We see that with the "clean" button pressed, these contacts inside the switchblock should be closed.
Although error (fault) codes for most major brands may be found in Chapter 7, usually diagnosis consists of simply replacing circuit components until you find the bad one. Usually the problem turns out to be a bad oven sensor, stuck or defective keypad, ERC (clock) unit or a circuit board. These can be tested and rebuilt or replaced as described in this chapter.2-6 (c) THERMOSTATIC CONTROLSA thermostat is simply a switch or a gas valve that opens and closes according to the temperature it senses.
If there is an automatic oven cycle, main control thermostats must also be wired through the timer. And if there is a cleaning cycle, they must be either bypassed or adjusted for the higher temperatures of that cycle. That's where you start to get dual-control thermostats, thermostats with twelve leads, and other complexities.
Some even control two levels of the same pilot. Main control thermostats are about the most expensive commonly-replaced parts in an oven.
It should be the last thing you conclude, after you have checked out everything else in the system.The liquid inside the bulb and capillary of an oven thermostat is usually a mercury or sodium compound or some other such nasty and dangerous stuff. So when you replace an oven thermostat, do not cut open the capillary or bulb, and dispose of the old thermostat properly. The definition of "properly" varies between jurisdictions, but check with your appliance parts dealer or local fire department hazardous materials professionals.ADJUSTING THERMOSTATS The oven is adjusted by a small adjusting screw in the center of the oven thermostat valve stem. In other words, if you set the thermostat at 350 degrees, you want the heating system to cycle on if the temperature is below 340 degrees, and off when the temperature reaches about 360 degrees.
With nothing else in the oven, place it in the middle of the oven, where you can see it through the oven door glass.
The important thing to remember about clocks in an oven unit are that often the thermostat controls are first wired through the timer. Also, if you are troubleshooting a no heat complaint in an oven with an automatic cycle, the first step is always to check the timer controls.
The woman who greeted me was the ultimate Susie homemaker; everything was spotless in HER kitchen. Including the oven, which looked new, but this gal swore she'd owned it since it was new 35 years before, and by golly she knew it inside and out and didn't know why two ovens out of three suddenly didn't work. You must have a wiring diagram to determine which terminals are connected when a switch inside the timer closes. Put a resistance meter across those terminals and advance the clock to determine if the switch is opening and closing. If the clock motor doesn't run or the switches don't open and close as they are supposed to, replace the timer. If there are any special wiring changes, they will be explained in instructions that come with the new timer. Clocks and timers can usually be rebuilt. Ask your appliance parts dealer for details.2-6 (e) ELECTRIC HEATERS AND IGNITORSElectric heater elements and ignitors are tested by measuring continuity across them as described in section 2-5(b). Replace heater elements if they show no continuity.2-6 (f) RELAYSHeating elements use a lot of electricity compared to other electrical components. The switches that control them sometimes need to be built bigger than other kinds of switches, with more capacity to carry more electricity. The switches involved in running a heater or ignitor can be too big to conveniently put inside the control console or timer.
Besides that, there are safety considerations involved in having you touch a switch that carries that much electricity directly, with your finger. The way they solve that problem is to make a secondary switch. A little switch activates an electromagnet, which closes a big switch that carries the heavier current load. Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. 3) If this manual advocates replacing the part, REPLACE IT!! It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good. If they genuinely try to help you fix it yourself, and you find that you're unable to, they may be the best place to look for service. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked.
If the ignitor's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something.



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