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Published 28.11.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Free Fishing Boat Plans

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Als je borstels over sleepringen (= 2 volle ringen) draaien is het wellicht een alternator. Als je borstels over een collector met lammellen (= allemaal kleine staafje langs elkaar) dan is het wellicht een dynamo zoals testman aanhaalde. Ik krijg een stil vermoeden dat het lampje er eerder nooit is geweest, omdat er ook aan Amp meter(nul in het midden) op het bord staat. Ik weet niet wat je met een zwevende steker bedoeld Maar die dynamo bestaat ook met een steker aansluiting en een iets andere regelaar. Als je nu verteld om wat voor auto het gaat kan ik je misschien helpen aan schema's enzo. Omdat het een oude auto is, is er vaak enorm in gebeund door sukkels die niet weten wat ze aan het doen zijn. Het lampje zit op de regelaar via pin H naar het dashboard, ik vermoed dat het via het sterpunt van de wikkelingen zit. De volgende keer alle info duidelijk bij de eerste post graag, dat scheelt een hoop tijd en ergernis. Information from the files of Bud Taplin, the former General Manager of Westsail Corporation, and founder and proprietor of Worldcruiser Yacht Company. A four page updated price sheet is available at no charge if you have a previous edition and wish to update just the prices in your manual.
The single biggest problem for the Westsail 32 engine installation seems to be excessive engine vibration leading to broken mounting brackets, failed engine mounts, excessively worn shaft bearings, transmission bearing damage and exhaust system failures. The problem with this approach was that it changed the dynamic harmonics of the engine while running, and caused much more vibration than when the factory original brackets were used. In my opinion, a large contributing factor to the problem of excessive vibration lies in the fact that in using the full engine room liner, the pan itself is not attached to the hull immediately around the areas of the engine mounts, permitting the pan to vibrate and further aggravate the dynamic harmonics problem. If the engine has not been removed, the drilling of the holes will be the most difficult part. I would recommend this job be done on all engine installations, even though the Perkins runs smooth enough not to have experienced the broken bracket problems.
If you have been noticing excessive vibration while running your engine, it is probably time to check the engine mounts. The Volvo used two different types of engine mounts, and one is an industry standard that I can get. The standard type has an aluminum base (or sometimes steel) with a threaded stud mounted in a rubber donut and sticking up, with two locking nuts on the stud. The special Volvo mount had a steel cup over the rubber donut, with a stud and a nut on top.
If you attempt to remove the old mounts, and the nut turns but does not come off, it means that the bolts under the pan were not welded to a metal plate to prevent them from turning.
If you are considering re-powering, I believe comparing performance of various engine choices should be based on the cubic inch displacement of the cylinders, rather than rated horsepower, as the displacement translates itself into power available at the shaft. There is no question that there a number of good engines on the market, but in my opinion, the Perkins 4-108 was probably the best one for the Westsail 32. Perkins, in their "corporate wisdom", discontinued the manufacturing of the 4-108 model in 1988, in favor of some new models. The engines that I am now recommending for the Westsail 32 are the Beta Marine 35, and the Beta Marine 38. To properly compare the Yanmar engines, the 3HM35 has 78 cubic inch displacement, and the Yanmar 4JHE has 100 cubic inch displacement.
I would not recommend using a turbo charged version of any engine to increase the horsepower rating, as I do not believe that you will not get the longevity of use out of the engine. There is usually additional vibration at low RPM's because the engine has certain harmonic speeds where it builds up a vibration. For break-in of the engine, you should run it for short periods of time at the maximum it will go, after warming it up well. If you cannot get the controls working properly, I would recommend replacing them with a Vetus single lever control. On the Westsail 32, provided your transmission has a 2 to 1 reduction, which most do for this sailboat installation, you should swing a 16" three blade prop to get the prop out into the stream of water for good push. With a Perkins 4-108 or equivalent engine of about 100 cubic inch displacement, you should get about 5 knots in still water at 1800 RPM, about 6 knots at 2200 RPM, and 6.5 to 7 knots at maximum of about 2500 to 2600 RPM.
Performance of W32 with new Perkins 4-108 with Borg Warner 1000 transmission, 16 x 13 RH 3 blade prop, full tanks, towing dingy was tested by one owner, and here are the results.
The 16" 3 blade Maxi Prop with a Perkins 4-108 with Borg Warner 1000 transmission should be set to 18 EH, which is about equivalent to 10 pitch.
For the 2 cylinder Volvo, I would recommend a three-blade 16" diameter by 11" pitch, left hand rotation prop.
With the correct prop, the Beta, Perkins or three cylinder Volvo should give about 5 knots in still water at 1600 RPM, about 6 knots at 1900 RPM, and 6.5 to 7 knots at about 2200 to 2400 RPM. The feathering design prop, made by Max-Prop and J Prop, is very efficient in both powering and reducing drag while sailing.
Both are excellent props, however I feel the J Prop has some distinct advantages over the Max-Prop.
For the Westsail 42 and 43, the propeller choices are governed by the engine and transmission that was used in the boat. Loosen the hose clamps on the stuffing box and shaft log, and remove the stuffing box from the log. Loosen the hose clamps on the stuffing box and shaft log, and pull the hose off of the shaft log. Check the face between the log and the hull, and grind off the hull as necessary to make the hull nearly match the angle of the log. Mix up a small quantity of epoxy putty (such as Marine-Tex), and put it on the mounting face of the hull and the log.
I have had a lot of inquiries regarding the proper exhaust system for a sailboat engine, and I have found that welded steel or stainless steel mufflers usually last about 7 to 10 years, then they crack along the welds. A proper installation should have the water cooled elbow pointing down at about a 30 degree angle from the manifold, and the water injected on the downward slope. If in some installations there is not enough room to install the muffler with the proper drop below the water inlet, it is possible to install pipe elbows and a nipple onto the manifold pointing up and then back before making the loop that then drops down.
If the elbow portion of the muffler on the original Volvo installation is still in good condition, cut it off at the point it enters the muffler, attach a hose to it, and run to the inlet of the new muffler. For the W-32 the fiberglass muffler can be mounted alongside the shaft, or under the fiberglass box shelf aft of the engine. Mufflers are available in various sizes of cylinder and length, mounted either horizontal or vertical, with inlets on the side or top. The small hose that carries the cooling water out of the manifold and into the elbow should rise up in a loop to the deck level.
To mount the muffler, it should be spotted in place so the hose from the elbow into it is a smooth drop, and the outlet hose is not kinked. The muffler should be mounted close enough to the centerline, or low enough, so that when the boat is heeled there is still a drop from the elbow into the muffler. A water cooled elbow is available made up in steel for the Volvo or as a replacement for the Perkins 4-107 or 4-108 engines.
If you were considering repowering your Westsail 28, this particular engine would be well suited for your boat.
A high-rise water-cooled exhaust elbow comes with the engine, and a fiberglass water lift muffler should be used. A full set of procedures is available for the installation of this engine in a Westsail 28. The engine that has proven very successful in the Westsail 32 is the Perkins 4-108, however this engine is no longer available. It is preferable to exchange the engine with the boat hauled out, however it is possible to have the whole job done in the water.
The fuel tanks should be carefully inspected at this time, and if they need replacing it should be done before the new engine is installed. The entire removal and installation should not take more than three days with two people, plus a haulout and crane to change engines.
NOTE: - Inquire regarding the balance of installation parts needed and engine optional equipment. If necessary, remove the clamping bracket under the starboard forward mount holding the fuel and oil line hoses. With the engine up in the air, adjust the transmission shift cable and the throttle cables so they will fit in the proper locations to operate correctly, but do not connect them yet. Remove the four mounts from the engine and check the location of the lower nuts on the engine mounts. The fiberglass waterlift muffler is mounted aft of the engine exhaust manifold on the port side. The installation can be done with the vessel in the water if the engine that was removed was a two cylinder Volvo, as the shaft coupling location should be correct.
If you are installing a feathering prop, see the special instructions for the fore and aft engine location.
Adjust the lower nuts on the aft flex mounts so that they are almost down to the bottom of the mount, and adjust the lower nuts of the forward flex mounts so that they are 2" above the top of the mount.
It has a loom with a home made 'ignition key' consisting of just a 2 piece plug which is pushed together to engage the starter. Can you see the two wires (red and black) that have been twisted together - any idea what these are for ? One other thing, while trying to stop the engine, I accidently pulled the lower of the two HT leads off, and managed to break the lead - is it an easy fix ? Yes - but the control box end of things (ignition, stop, kill etc) is the same across all the Yamahas. Thanks again Nos - will try and sort it out today, have to find a suitable ignition switch first. VAGB have negotiated a special purchase deal with Beta Marine for their excellent BZ482 Engine (Lots of DISCOUNT !!). The engine comes complete with the Technodrive TMC Gearbox, flexible coupling, special damped feet, and control panel with wiring loom. Shafts, props and various extras are available as is a special "All-IN" Package - Ready to install. This replacement enables far better control of your Vega as it uses a conventional gearbox with instant power available in either forward or reverse. 13.5HP Engine with Heat Exchanger, Header Tank, Water Cooled Exhaust Manifold, Fresh & Sea Water Pumps, Mechanical Fuel Lift Pump, Fuel & Oil Filters, 12v Starter, 40amp Alternator, Shutdown Solenoid, Start Panel, Warning Lights & Buzzer, 3m of Cable Loom with Plug and Socket, Hurth or TMC Gearbox, Flexible Mounts, Flexible Coupling, Morse End Fittings, Accessible Sump, Sump Drain Pump, Naturally Aspirated, Heater Plugs for Cold Starting, Cast Iron Head & Block, High Inertia Flywheel, Gear Driven Camshaft & Sea Water Pump, Integral Heat Exchanger with Cupro-Nickel Tube Stack with Phosphor-Bronze End Caps and Sacrificial Anode, Multi Cylinder for Smooth Running.
Would anyone on this forum have knowledge about the wiring of Yanmar Magnetic Pickup Tachometers?
Early model Yanmar Tachos ran off a magnetic pickup unit which pulsed off the teeth on the flywheel. My problem is that I have found three wiring diagrams (below) and they all conflict with each other as to which coloured wires go to the magnetic sending unit and ignition. Can anyone tell me what the correct path is for each of the 3 coloured wires on my Tacho (pictured above), please? Most flywheel proximity tachometers are adjustable over a range of about 90 to 180 teeth per revolution.
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Het laadlampje heeft vaak een belangrijke extra functie naast het aangeven of de accu geladen wordt of niet. Die beunen laten vaak ook onnodige dingen weg omdat ze niet snappen waar het voor nodig is.

This manual contains a collection of service information, preventative maintenance tips, upgrade modifications and parts, and replacement parts availability for the entire line of Westsail cruising sailboats. Prices are subject to change, but you will be notified at the time of order if the prices are different from those shown in the manual.
The majority of the broken mounting brackets have occurred on the Volvo 2 and 3 cylinder models because the original Volvo brackets were replaced by ones designed and built by Westsail.
On the first two hundred or so boats, there were three different engine pans built, one each for the Volvo 2 and 3 cylinder engines, and one for the Perkins. These brackets have been breaking, causing subsequent transmission problems, worn shaft bearings, etc. The liner is attached to the hull above the fuel tank shelves, and across the engine room bulkhead, but otherwise suspended above the hull.
Use a right angle drill attachment if available, a series of smaller holes, chisel, hacksaw blade, etc., just to get holes large enough to work through.
They are set in a rubber donut, and if they are 10 years old, or older, you might want to consider replacing them. The other is a Volvo special and has to be ordered from Volvo, and hopefully they still stock them (and trust me, they are expensive), or otherwise it is necessary to convert over to the industry standard type. The engine mounting bracket goes between the two nuts, and you can adjust the vertical height by moving the nuts up or down.
There is no provision for easy adjustment, and shims between the bracket and the steel cup have to be used to get the adjustment.
In this case, drill a 2" hole in the sidewall of the pan, alongside each mount, with the top about 1" down from the top of the pan. Horsepower ratings cannot be accurately compared, as the manufacturers use different RPM's to calculate horsepower, and the higher the RPM, the more the rated horsepower.
This is based on 20 years experience with the engine, and results of use in the Westsail since 1972. Both of these engines use a four cylinder cast iron block, and use a basic engine manufactured by Kubota as an industrial engine. Any time you have unusual vibration, you should be able to change the RPM by 25 to 50 revs and smooth out the vibrations. Advance the throttle slowly until the RPM will not go any higher, then back off on the throttle until the RPM just starts to drop. I have been using it for some time, and it is the least expensive one on the market, and a good unit. Make sure the prop is located at least 3" behind the hull opening so that it can get water flow to it.
It will give much better performance than the two bladed, as there are always at least two blades in the water stream, and the reverse performance is greatly improved. A 17" diameter is about as large as will fit in the rudder opening without tip cavitation problems. The 16" 3 blade Max-Prop with a Perkins 4-108 with Borg Warner 2 to 1 reduction transmission should be set to 18 EH, which is about equivalent to 10 pitch. The J Prop can be attached directly onto the shaft, similar to a fixed prop, and can be externally adjusted to change the pitch, even underwater.
On most of the boats, the bearing is in a bronze shaft log housing that is bolted to the back end of the hull with two bolts. The bearing itself has a grooved rubber liner that the shaft rides in, and has a thin bronze shell that is bonded to the rubber.
Clean up the stuffing box, free up and grease the threads on the packing nut, and install at least three rings of new teflon based packing. After the boat is back in the water, and the engine test run, tighten the packing nut again to stop any drips.
Loosen the set screws if they are installed, and cut through the shell of the bearing with a hacksaw blade on a small holder, or use a Sawzall. For the past 25 years I have been using the fiberglass waterlift mufflers in conjunction with a steel pipe or cast iron water cooled exhaust elbow on the manifold. There should be about a 2" to 4" drop from the point the water is injected to the inlet of the muffler. The most popular model is the horizontal one with the outlet hose going thru the lazarette bulkhead, with a high loop in the lazarette. There are a variety of sizes available of inlet and outlet pipes, and it is wise to get one that fits your present hoses, as it saves the cost of a new outlet hose. The muffler can be stuck to the hull side with a lump of epoxy putty, or strapped with stainless clamps, nylon webbing, aluminum straps, etc.
If the lower half of the muffler gets above the top of the exhaust elbow, then water can run back into the engine when not running.
A stainless steel high rise exhaust elbow is also available for the Beta engine, and one also for a Perkins engine.
Some of the boats originally had a Volvo MD7 engine, of about 15 HP, and this was underpowered for the boat.
The existing exhaust hose and outlet can be used, but an additional hose is needed to connect the elbow to the muffler. Sometimes the same shaft can be used, and the log, stuffing box and engine controls are able to be used.
A high rise water cooled exhaust elbow comes with the engine, and a fiberglass water lift muffler should be used. The installation of any auxiliary equipment and cleanup or painting of the engine room may add some time to the total job. Remove the old engine and mounts, engine electrical panel and all of the old engine wiring.
With the shift lever pointing aft, pulling it up gives right hand rotation with the TMC or PRM transmission.
The sea water hose goes to the inlet on the salt water pump at the forward end of the engine. With the shift lever pointing aft, pulling it up gives right hand rotation with the PRM transmission. Add coolant, engine oil, and transmission oil, make sure there is fuel in the filter, and start the engine. You will need to remove the old Volvo shaft coupling, and install the new one on the existing shaft. Put the mounts on the engine, and put standard hex nuts on just finger tight to hold the mounts in place.
With the shift lever pointing aft, pulling it up gives right hand rotation with the TMC transmission. The seawater hose goes to the inlet on the salt water pump at the forward end of the engine.
With over a hundred installations of this engine into the Vega during the last ten years we have acquired the expertise needed to answer your questions, both technical and practical.
You have the luxury of the prop remaining stationary whilst in neutral thus negating the very real problem of rope wrap whilst mooring etc.
It came without a Tacho when I purchased it, but I've since found a second hand Yanmar Tacho and would like to install it. The interesting information you provided has shown me that there are only three wires needed to run the tacho - 1 signal wire, 1 ground wire, and 1 ignition or battery wire. I learned this morning that the Tacho I have is suited for a Yanmar 6LP engine so I am doubtful if it will work with my earlier 2qm15.
Gevolg is een vaak zelfs brandgevaarlijke wirwar van draden en slecht (of niet) werkende electrische functies in de wagen. The pan ended with a flange just above the mounting flats, and was bonded to the hull on both sides and across the engine room bulkhead. In the area of the flats there is plywood reinforcement for the mounts, but not so in the area above the flats that runs up the hull sides.
The main thing is to get holes cut through the pan sides so that it can be firmly attached to the hull. At the same time, if you have a Westsail 32 with the full engine room liner, you might also want to consider bonding the pan to the hull to eliminate this cause of excessive vibration.
These plates should be wide enough to rotate the mount slightly to miss the plate mounting bolts.
The Volvo MD 2B (later called the MD 11C) has 66 cubic inches of displacement, rated at 25 HP, and has proven to not have enough reserve power to adequately move the Westsail 32 in anything other than smooth water. Some have had to be overhauled, worn out from extreme use, or failure from a broken oil line, but are usually not replaced with another make of engine.
A fuel sheen on the water at the exhaust outlet is unburnt diesel going through the engine, and should clear up when the engine is warmed up. The further back the better, provided it does not interfere with the rudder, and can be removed. With a Max-Prop, the prop hub has to be installed on the shaft, then the three blades fitted, the correct numbers lined up to achieve the required pitch, then the two halves of the shell attached, being careful to not change any of the numbers.
On most boats, the bearing itself is set flush with the outside flange on the housing, so it is not possible to easily grip the bearing to remove it. Remove the four bolts holding the transmission coupling to the shaft coupling, remove the set screws, then if a small puller is available, use it to remove the coupling. Otherwise, cut through the shell of the bearing with a Sawzall, or a hacksaw blade on a small end holder. Use some never seize compound on the shaft, and attach the coupling with its key, then attach the shaft coupling to the transmission coupling. Realign engine so shaft comes out middle of hole in stern, put a little grease on the bearing, and slide the log into the hole. Put a wrap of masking tape on the threads of the bolts so the putty does not stick to the threads, put a washer on each bolt, and some caulking under the washers. This portion of the line can be a reasonable length of good quality rubber hose as the water is mixed with the exhaust gas here and cooled.
I have used this method successfully on some engines by using two street ells on the manifold, one pointing up and the other pointing aft, before connecting the water cooled elbow.
For the W-42 a fiberglass muffler can be mounted in the well just ahead of the engine, with elbows to direct the hose and eliminate sharp bends. If the inlet or outlet of the muffler is slightly smaller than the exhaust hose, a few wraps of duct tape applied around the pipe will build it up, or a short piece of hose can be used as a spacer bushing. The engine comes standard with fresh water cooling and a TMC 40 transmission with a 2.6 to 1 reduction, which is appropriate for the boat. The shift and throttle brackets come with the engine, and the existing cables will hook up to them. The propeller must be changed, as it uses a right hand prop rather then the left hand used on a Volvo engine.
Leave the shift lever and cables and the last section of exhaust hose, if they are still in serviceable condition.
Cut thru the upper sides of the aft end of the pan mounting flange if necessary so that these plates can slide out toward the hull to get the proper spacing aft for the mounts.
Make sure the shaft rotates freely, and the log does not bind on the sides of the hole in the stern.
Plug in the pre-wired harness and connect the positive battery cable from the common on the disconnect switch to the post on the starter solenoid, and negative cable from a battery to a ground bolt on the engine.
You may have to turn the elbow on the water pump inlet to face to starboard or use a barb facing down so the hose will not be kinked against the bulkhead. If you do not have return fittings on the tanks, you can put a tee on the tank vent fitting for a return. This installation can be accomplished by using additional riser blocks under the mounts to raise the engine up enough so that the transmission coupling will line up with the existing shaft coupling location.
Cut a 3" hole to clear the hose through the lazarette bulkhead just under the top of the fiberglass box to bring the hose out the aft end of the muffler.

You should not have any problems on the installation but please contact us if you have any queries.
Het ster knooppunt komt wel met een draad naar buiten, maar waarschijnlijk moet dat dienen voor de toerenteller. Bruin gele en de dikkere bruine draad zitten elk op 1 van de twee klemmen links van de doorvoer. Part of that area is cut out for the cockpit drain seacocks and the engine water inlet seacock, and the gap between the pan and hull can be seen. If you have this type, and do not want to convert, contact a Volvo dealer, and have him try to order them for you. You may have to enlarge the holes in the engine brackets if the new studs are larger than the original ones. The new mounts can be centered on the old locations, new holes drilled, and locknuts with large backup washers installed under the pan. The Volvo MD 3B (later called the MD 17C) was rated at 35 HP, with 99 cubic inches of displacement. After 50 hours or so of running of a new engine, the engine should be serviced, valves adjusted, and the head torqued down by a competent mechanic.
This maximum varies, depending on the prop size, and the quality of fuel, but should be about 2500 RPM for a Perkins 4-108. It will fit your existing cables, and only the hole thru the cockpit wall will have to be enlarged slightly.
This job can only be done hauled out, and it usually requires two people to handle the three blades at the same time. It usually needs to be cut, or if a special tool is available at a boatyard, it can be pulled out of the housing.
Check the alignment with a feeler gauge, and if more than .005" out of alignment, then realign the engine. If a welded steel water cooled elbow is used, they may develop leaks at the welds after 7 to 10 years, but are easy to unbolt and replace. The purpose of the design of the muffler is then to lift the exhaust gas and water up to the hull outlet, and to quiet the exhaust noises. For the W-43 the fiberglass muffler can be mounted under the aft berth, with fiberglass elbows to handle the bends. This serves to break any siphon on the inlet seawater hose when the engine is shut down, and bleeds a little of the cooling water off so it can be observed flowing down the cockpit drain. While it is preferable to exchange the engine with the boat hauled out, it is possible to have the whole job done in the water. The instrument panel is prewired, and it is only necessary to cut the hole in the cockpit, and plug in the panel. To install the Beta engine in a Westsail 32 with the full engine room liner, you need to order the engine with the special rear mounting brackets offered.
The instrument panel is prewired, with key switch, push button start, electric tachometer, oil pressure and water temperature lights and alarms.
Set the long plates in the correct location, and drill the mounting holes through the fiberglass pan. Put all of the mounts, spacer plates and holdown bolts (with never seize compound on them) onto pan loosely, with flat washers and lock washers, then set engine back down in place on the mounts. Connect an approximately 12" length of 2" ID hose from the exhaust elbow to the muffler inlet.
If you return into a vent tee, make sure the return hose shoots into the tank, and not out the vent. Set the plates in the correct location as shown in the drawing, and drill the mounting holes through the fiberglass pan.
I don't want to hazard a guess and risk burning out the guts of the Tacho so I thought I might send an email to a yanmar dealer somewhere to see if I can get more information. During the latter part of 1974 a new engine room liner was designed that incorporated the engine pan, fuel tank shelves, battery and water heater shelves. If that area is firmly attached to the hull, then the hull itself will absorb the vibration, as was the case with the original 3 engine pans, and will let the engine run smoother and minimize the broken bracket problem. Use epoxy resin rather than polyester resin, as it will adhere better to the cured fiberglass. I would recommend running the Perkins 4-108 at about 1800 to 2000 RPM for normal cruising, and about 2200 to 2300 RPM if you are trying to get someplace in a hurry. The Beta 38 uses a 2.8 to 1 transmission reduction, and we use a 16" x 14" right hand prop. Both props require shortening the shaft so that the front of the hub is very close to the shaft log bearing. File the shell of the bearing as necessary so that the bearing will fit snugly into the log housing, without excessive force. If it is not possible to move the engine on its mounts, and the alignment is way off, then it will be necessary to remove and reset the shaft log. Clean up the stuffing box, free up and grease the threads on the packing nut, and install three rings of new teflon based packing.
File the shell of the bearing as necessary so that the bearing will fit snugly into the log, without excessive force.
Remove the masking tape and wipe off any putty from the threads and install a washer with caulking under it on the outside, and snug a single nut down finger tight.
The hose coming out of the muffler should rise to deck level, then drop down to the exhaust outlet. If the water cooling system fails, exhaust gases or steam will come out of the cockpit drain. Various instrument panels are available, but they all come prewired, with key switch, push button start and stop switches, electric tachometer, oil pressure and water temperature gauges, lights and alarms.
The instrument panel is prewired, and it is only necessary to enlarge the hole in the cockpit, and plug in the panel.
Set the horizontal round fiberglass muffler in place, and check to see there is a slight drop from the end of the exhaust elbow to the muffler inlet. If you have two tanks, you will need to install selector valves to supply and return to the same tank while running.
Barrel sand out the hole in the stern so that the log fits in easily with some clearance all around. Adjust mounts so that the shaft comes out the center of the large hole in the stern where you have removed the log.
You should also cut a 7" diameter hole on the lower portion of the port fiberglass box aft of the engine to fit the muffler. Put all of the mounts, spacer plates and holdown bolts (with never seize compound on them) onto the pan loosely, with flat washers and lock washers. Bijvoorbeeld een stel relais in de schakeling opnemen om de koplampen aan en uit te zetten zodat de oude net zo heel goede lichtschakelaar niet meer de volle stroom hoeft te schakelen bijvoorbeeld. This liner was designed with the engine mounting flats for the Perkins with the Borg Warner 72 transmission.
The engine will also be able to be aligned with the shaft properly, and reduce wear on the shaft bearing and stress on the transmission seals and bearings. Clean the areas as well as possible by grinding and using acetone, and sand the gelcoat for 2" or so around each hole made. A filling of resin with shredded mat and powder filler can be used, with mat to give it strength. Either of these engines will push the boat at 6 to 7 knots in smooth water, and maintain 5 to 6 knots against rough water, with ample reserve power. See the procedure F- 7 "Installation of the Shaft Log After Replacing an Engine" for the method of accomplishing this task. Slide the log into the hole again to make sure it still fits the hole easily, and the shaft rotates freely, and the log does not bind on the sides of the hole in the stern. If you check your shaft length, and it is too short for this installation, then a new shaft will be required. The basic engine is a Kubota industrial engine, with cast iron block, and the marine conversion done by Beta Marine in England. The engine is then dropped onto these plates, and moved and shimmed until the shaft lines up. These operations are much more easily done before the engine is placed back down on the mounts. Install new packing in the stuffing box, and put the stuffing box on the shaft, and attach the stainless key and the coupling and shaft to transmission, and hold with two bolts.
Separate the shaft couplings, slide the shaft back, and install the Drivesaver that came with the engine. When the shaft is in the center of the hole, verify that the mount studs are straight up and not bent over, and mark the location of the tapped holes on the aluminum plates to bolt the mounts down. These operations are much more easily done before the engine is placed back down on the mounts, but can be done later.
This engine has rear mounts raised above the front mounts by about 6", and are spaced at 22" apart. Cut mat and cloth strips about 3" wide and 9" to 12" long, saturate with catalyzed resin, roll it up into a tube, and stuff it into the hole and push it back up into the gap with a thin stick. If you are comparing engines and prices for a replacement, be sure the engine you choose for the Westsail 32 has about 90 cubic inches of displacement, as any less will not really give satisfactory motoring performance.
Check to see that the shaft still rotates easily, and that the tightening of the nuts did not move the log out of good alignment. Realign engine so shaft comes out middle of the hole in stern, and then snug down all of the bolts and nuts on the mounts.
Mix up a quantity of epoxy putty (such as Marine-Tex), put the shaft log back part way in place, and put the bronze bolts thru the holes from the inside with caulking under the washers. You may also need to mark the port aft corner of the fiberglass pan to make a cut necessary to clear the transmission shift lever.
This mounting arrangement would not work on a Volvo with the factory brackets at 16" on centers, and equal level forward and aft.
The majority of the replacements I have done are with the Beta 38, previously known as the Beta 1505. You will also need to mark the edges of the fiberglass pan to make cuts necessary to clear the bell housing on the engine and the shift arm. Mix up a quantity of epoxy putty, put the shaft log back part way in place, and put the bronze bolts thru the holes from the inside with caulking under the washers. Westsail designed and built their own mounting brackets for both Volvo engines to bridge out and reach the new mounting flats. Put the cut piece of pan material back onto the hole, and lock with a small patch around the plug. After the epoxy putty has hardened, install the second locking nuts on the shaft log bolts, and caulk over the outer parts of the shaft log with polyurethane or polysulphide caulking. Slide the shaft log back into place, put on washers with caulking on them, and snug the nuts down just enough to squeeze some putty out of the mounting face. Caulk the joint on the inner part of the shaft log, then slide the stuffing box with hose and clamps onto shaft log and tighten the clamps. Make sure the bolts on the coupling and Drivesaver are tight, and there is a lockwire on shaft setscrews.

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