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Published 12.06.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Sailboat Drawings

Boating Hardware Prosail has supplied timber and composite materials for a number of vessels from 4 to 20 metres. We stock over 20 varieties of fibreglass, carbon and Aramid fabrics and 10 types of glass fibre tapes, all sold per metre or by the roll.
Boating Hardware Prosail is the Western Australian agent for the Australian made Bote Cote epoxy range. In addition to the blended Bote Cote filler powders we carry Q cell, Cabosil and cotton flox. When your project progresses to the painting stage, we stock a basic range of International and a larger selection of Jotun marine paint.
Through the Bote Cote supply chain we also carry an expanding range of UK & US traditional fasteners, silicon bronze screws, bolts and nuts was well as copper fastenings and traditional bronze fittings. About UsBoating Hardware Prosail is a traditional chandlery focusing on equipment for pleasure boats, both power and sail. Tiger Docks® uses only the strongest, most durable, galvanized steel for dock construction. Our high-quality Residential Wood Dock Hardware is the best investment in the marketplace for lighter weight hardware. I keep trying to envision some way of bedding in the pin, which would run wild of the hinge for an inch or two, into a trench or something. I'm assuming the main desire is a completely flush hinge and it seems that you want a sleek look where the hinge is invisible. You not only have to deal with the composition of the hinge but also the geometry, so it opens and also opens enough without binding. At the same time it has to seal out wind and water, either hermetically with gaskets or 'lumpily' with channels that drain away small amounts of water that get through. You might think upon having two pins imbedded in two corners of the hatch that pivot in grooves in the deck. Maybe you could imbed a steel rod in one rounded edge of the hatch and a super magnet in a groove in the deck that would end up as a hinge not held together with barrels and pins but the sorcery of magnetic attraction. Originally Posted by SamSam I'm assuming the main desire is a completely flush hinge and it seems that you want a sleek look where the hinge is invisible.
The flush hatches I have, which are nothing more than the cut-out pieces of the balsa core deck, will have to have hinges with pivots that, to close properly, the hinge pins need to be well away from the joint between deck and hatch lid. If I make up some composite replicas of the stainless steel marine market version I figure I can save a few bucks.
Location: australia mix up epoxy with milled glass fibres and a bit of silica to form a structural bog.
Failing that, make the cured block of bog and drill it out to accept the rod if you prefer.
The bog could be cured in place, joining the deck or the hatch permanently, or drill it out and use screws to attach it, but i would prefer the permanent solution. Lay the hatch on a flat non stick surface, build a dam around the edge where you want the hinge and pour the bog into the dam.
Best to work the cured product the next day, if you wait too long it will just get harder and harder to mill it to shape.
Originally Posted by groper mix up epoxy with milled glass fibres and a bit of silica to form a structural bog. Thinking more about it, even if UHMWPE is used for the pin, and IF grit and sand is a problem in the hinge (maybe it isn't, I don't know) you'd still have to make the body abrasion resistant.
Sand will not get into it, the tolerance between the pin and body would be the thickness of some cling wrap, much smaller than a grain of sand. Location: st simons island ga Here is a shot of the hatch cutout on my build. Groper, I couldn't open the link, but I fiddled with the lid today and I think it will work fine.
I had to cut the stock into hinge sized pieces and knock the rod out with a scap piece of rod stock. Tomorrow, weather permitting, I am going to cut some notches into the seperate pieces, and make up some hinges. To anyone unfamiliar with this kind of work; this is not a tutorial, but more of an experiment.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
I thought it would make a good thread to pass around infornation useful to amateur builders, who want to get in on the latest composite hardware methods.
Location: st simons island ga Show and Tell--Birdhouse Heck, it's too wet to do much outside, so I decided to do some experimenting. Also I cut two pieces of formica to size and taped on bubble wrap to the backside (but the shiny side goes down, against the peel ply), so this goes on last. Location: st simons island ga When it cures I will cut into it and see how thick it turned out to be, So then I will know that much at least.
Also, I am wondering if it should be through fastened through the deck as alumnum brackets would be. Location: australia indeed charly, why use bolts to hold everything together? Location: st simons island ga Hinge Construction Hey guys, I have been thinking some more about building some composite hinges, for my flush deck hatches.
Location: Coastal Georgia If anything eventually goes wrong, then you have to make more hinges, tear into the hatch and deck, then repair and fair it all up and paint it with some custom color that hopefully will match the aged color of the surrounding area. I don't think it's practical at all, but if you do it, try and pick a composite that will stand up to the repeated action of housing a turning shaft. Guess I'll have to wait till tomorrow to see if the hatch opens or not The plastic underneath is to keep the hinge from bonding to the hull where it shouldn't. Location: australia not exactly the way i had envisioned, but im sure itll come out fine, and bullet proof! Could you have simply recessed the hinges further in both directions, trimmed the plastic rod flush with the hinge body so it fits into the recesses, and not have to back fill with bog to close up the gap between the hatch cover and deck edge?
The idea with letting the pins runwild of the hinge was to bog over them there at the ends too, anchoring the pin that much more, I'll have to put some wax on the side of the hinge when I do that so it won't stick to any moving parts.
Location: st simons island ga I am still interested in making my own cleats. This looks much more elegant and bulletproof, than the all plywood method I have been monkeying around with, which is much more reliant on the bond strength of the seperate ply pieces. We also have a full range of polyester resins, gel coats and flow coats and carry a basic range of fibreglass tints. Jotun has a comprehensive range of commercial strength marine paint at really competitive prices and is the first choice of trade and DIY builders. This range has increased in popularity as the Australian manufactured product becomes scarcer and scarcer.
This boat dock hardware is specifically designed for use in calm areas, free of current and prevailing winds. UHMWPE is quite expensive but is used in commercial friction reduction solutions and has a self lubricating property. I guess the best practice would be to wrap the pin in kevlar, and use a kevlar bushing inside the hinge? Otherwise I will have to grind out too much of the drain channels on the hinge side of the hatch openings at the flange, to keep the lid from binding up . I wouldnt worry too much about making it fancy at this point, as you can grind it back to whatever lovely shape you want. You will need to make either an oversize hatch bigger than the cutout, or add back in a recessed edge to use the cutout piece yes? It is just boils down to a choice of -more work to make, possible leaks from through fasteners vs. I waxed the rod and covered it with waxed paper, which I cut into a narrow strip and placed on top of the layup, then rolled it up with the rod inside (like a joint) Next time I will do that different, it would be much easier, I think, to just lay down wet some colth strips the correct width, lay on a bit of bog, then the wax paper or plastic , in a strip that is the width of the circumference of the rod, then lay the rod in the middle, and fold the whole thing over like a taco. Wooden Boat Salvage online designs & Plan downloadWooden Boat Salvage Wooden Boat Salvage Sensitive textiles for many different DIY Lite woods projects Wooden Boat Salvage-5. Boat Wooden Steering Wheels online designs & Plan downloadBoat Wooden Steering Wheels Boat Wooden Steering Wheels There are disturbing operating results from Amazon.
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Any anecdotes etc, from those who have built and actually used composite fittings-- especially chainplates, padeyes, cleats, stanchions hinges and the like, ie, what problems have you had, and what solutions? I have never done this before, so any suggestions, reprimands or other comments are all appreciated.
The idea with it is to keep the laminate smooth, so the bubble wrap pattern won't telegraph through.
The plans show the brackets through bolted to each other, back to back through bolted through the bulkhead, and also through bolted botttom to top, through the (balsa) deck. I'll also guess it's heavier and less stiff then T-6 aluminum angle stock of similar dimensions.
A little skinnier than PAR guessed, and that I had hoped for, but I know I can use it somewhere. I was hoping I could be able to reach in there and prep, and then bed the piece in some structural bog, maybe covering the whole thing in a final layer, or (staggered layers) of glass. Picture some grit or sand in with the pin and how long the composite will last before the pin wears the hole out and it gets all sloppy. But it is better to start too tight, and gradually sand or cut where needed till it stops binding and opens freely without distorting the pin. It is hard to tell from the photos but the final layer of cloth should cover everything up flush. I am thinking just some simple handles- like a handle on a shut off valve, pivoting on a nylon bolt that is embedded into the overhead, and some wedges of wood or bog attached to the hatch for the end of the handle to snug up against when closed. The Residential Wood Boat Dock Hardware has all of the same quality features as our durable commercial grade hardware. Pin cover plates installed from below decks would leave the upper side magically invisible.
When you need to change the pin (if ever) then simply drill out the plug and knock the pin thru.
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I did cut three strips of varying width and staggered them on first (after the initial 10 oz layer) I wanted to keep a true 90 degree angle as much as possible.
Then mold a top half, glass, clamping cradle over the tube and hold it down with 2 bolts either side that tighten the clamp as you tighten the bolts.
The underside of the bridgedeck gets a couple of padeyes for mounting the swinging tube for the outboard motors. The barrels of the hinges will not be covered of course, but they will be flush and blend in with the deck. I guess the way they are fastened and backed, through the deck, is just as, if not more important than the material. I am thinking, thru fasten with a piece of fiberglass rod in each disc (there would be two discs per cleat, so they would tie off in a figure eight, just like traditional) and then glass the whole thing up , six ways to sunday. I would not do it like the article shows, its just asking for it to be pulled off as it is only reliant on the bond area. The hardware is fabricated from seven-gauge carbon steel and then hot-dipped galvanized for long-lasting service. Hence the idea of inset pins into the hatches themselves, with cover-plates down below won't work. I suppose it might be better though, because the point loads on the pin would be closer together, ther would be more of them, and they would be more widely spaced, especially if the pin ran wild and was also bogged into the deck, as you described.
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These should do nicely for that, cut into smaller pieces and glassed in place back to back. I figure that the base of the cleats compressive strength is all that really matters IF the thru bolts and backer plates are beefy enough?
Its probably sufficient for most askings, but if it really needs to be strong such as a bow cleat, i think it needs to be built more like a chainplate and the fibres need to be put in tension.
You may need to wrap the rod in something like cling wrap in order to get a little clearance to the hinge operates smoothly, otherwise the fit will be very tight.
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There is a watertight bulkhead below, that gets a bracket up against the deck, and thru bolted into another identical bracket up on deck, which accepts the bowtube clevis pin, one on each side of the bulkhead. I am squeamish about making something that permanent, but I can't figure any other practical way. It is not very beautiful yet though, i will post some more pics when I get it all faired out. I think I will just paint over whatever I have, as I don't want to further complicate the issue with UV light concerns, etc.
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I am thinking of some sort of mandrel made up first, with a (wooden?) dowel, overlwrapped with fabric (uni?) , then maybe kevlar (?) Then slick it up and layup the hinges around it??
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