Boat design building regulations,alumaweld boats for sale in alaska fairbanks,boat building school newport ri hotels,how to make a wooden ring toss game - Tips For You

Published 03.02.2014 | Author : admin | Category : Wooden Skiff Plans

I am looking for information with regards to the design, and detail drawings, In AutoCAD format, either .dwg or.
For 16 to 22 foot aluminium boat design, similar to boston whaler designs, centre console type layout. I am conversant with autuCAD, and have TIG welding experience, but am looking for designs with cutting schedules that could be profled by CNC machines to allow for ease of assembly. There are several designers in Australia that offer plans or plasma cut kits for small vessels. Phil Curran of CDM Marine and Gavin Mair are two of the top alloy designers here on the west coast and they have websites. I have a 28 foot trailerable boat in alloy suitable for experienced builders but it is not a kit boat. I have the original design for the prototype available but I am reworking the underwater lines for a stern drive leg (there needs to be more displacement aft for the change of LCB), which also affects the performance potential for the boat. The second generation hull will have a 120 hp diesel stern drive (although a four stroke outboard is possible) and will have a top speed of 20 to 22 kts and a cruise of 18 to 20. After I have built the prototype I will use the corrected sections to put together a plasma cut kit. Location: Western Australia Alloy plate for hull Yes, I can see it would be tempting to use surplus plate to build a hull, and if it is a marine grade alloy (5000 series) it may save you some dollars up front. Overall, I think the hassle factor of building in tread plate would result in an inferior boat. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. It could be a late 40's, early 50's Chris Craft deluxe or sedan, but some of the details are wrong. Location: Norway Boatpicture I Have done some research on your image, and it looks like a ''brand new'' '1950 Chris Craft Super Deluxe.
Location: Milwaukee, WI Water tanks are replaced when they are corrode and leak.
Boston Previous Member   while I wouldnt go so far as the previous I am also planning a build for a live aboard, although mines going to be along the lines of the old style commuter yachts. Find someone you trust, get self educated as to what you basically want and go in with a succinct but flexible plan. Location: Michigan Whos job is gonna be rounding up two of every animal to put aboard? Ill be building it myself as having been involved in construction my whole life I can assure you if you want something done right you really do need to do it yourself.
Am working up the funds now and should be starting in the next year or two depends on what the economy does.
Im developing the modifications that will make it seaworthy and will be presenting them to a NA eventually once I have a grip on what my options are and how they interact with the rest of the boat. Location: Michigan Well good luck, that would take one man a lifetime to design and build a quality boat like that, and about 250,000 - 500,000 or more depending on what materials are used and such. Other than that Im loading up a futon, a folding table and chairs, a cooler, a grill, a mini fridge, speakers and a radio, a captians chair, and chicks. Now this is a houseboat, that runs on an outboard and can actually navigate rivers and small bays too. Location: Gulf Coast Poly Pontoons I am currently looking for house boat plans too. Location: Eustis, FL Those old Whit designs are little more then floating Winnebagos. Originally Posted by PAR Now this is a houseboat, that runs on an outboard and can actually navigate rivers and small bays too. Diagonals And Offset Tables » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Has anyone here started a boat building business from scratch? Our Boat Building Division is comprised of very talented individuals, each with decades of experience in the design, construction, and management of boat building projects. Originally Posted by LyndonJ I'd stick to conventional methods, you'l have an asset then that you can relise when you sell. On a steel boat, where you build in your details and weld them down, which would have cost exponentially more in a non metal boat, the finished steel work is thus a far greater portion of the finished boat, than it is for non metal boats. As I point out in my book, people often fail to differentiate between resale value and resale price.
The fact that McNaughton is too dense to comprehend basic geometric principles has nothing to do with structural reality.
The picture above is of wooden planking ,which has no strength across the planks , which is exactly what frames were developed for.
There is nothing floppy about a finished origami hull.Such comments reveal an absolute naivety about the subject. As for the cost beatup, you were asked before just how much it would really cost on another thread (in time and dollars) to add 5 or 6 transverse bar frames to a 36 foot steel boat.
Nobody said that origami hulls are floppier, they are just weaker becasue the framing is floppier than a conventional frame. But you need to accept that some of your reasoning doesn't scale well to larger boats with much higher loads. Location: British Columbia Points 1 and 2 apply equally to longitudinals, as they are equally supported by their being welded to the hull plate, with the added structural advantage of going around a curve, yet you insist on calculating them as stand alone, with no attachment to, or support from, the hull plate.
It doesn't cost much to put 6 transverse frames in a hull, once it has been pulled together using origami methods, altho I know one guy who turned a couple of frames into a several week project, to increase his total income for the job.The point I am making is, if you put the frames up first, then try put the plate on to fit the frames, the cost and time goes up exponentially. Originally Posted by Brent Swain Points 1 and 2 apply equally to longitudinals, as they are equally supported by their being welded to the hull plate, with the added structural advantage of going around a curve, yet you insist on calculating them as stand alone, with no attachment to, or support from, the hull plate. The relevance of frames is quite necessary to make the whole ship an almost corrugate systeme, with all the strength in all the direction. Now when the round plate is transformed in chine on your design, you have an intense stress point there, and that is no good practice.
As for your other boat, they all are ceiled in wood inside and seams to cost much more that a Swan.

Fisherman and commercial are tough with the money, every cent is acconted, but you don't know that. By the way I would like to mention, a vessel of a certain size is never ever designed by one person, same for building.
We may argue about his biased opinions, about his terribly obvious lack of understanding some basic engineering, but we cannot argue that he does it to harm or insult other members. I know there are visitors here which cannot really get it together, where is the knowledge and where the anecdote. Reverse clipper bows and wine glass cross sections would be difficult but practically any other single and multi chine hull form can be done in origami. It's clear that the longitudinals go into tension, suffer stress reversals and consequently deflect more that a pre bent frame. Originally Posted by whoosh … do these boats come with lines, as iines if one wanted to draw a body plan, for tankage floors frames etc?
That can be done by the software, or you can build chine model and take the strakes patterns from it..
Originally Posted by dskira When I designed and latter on built (sorry, I built too, but that is not relevant since you want to be the only one here) if we don't put frames the vessel will have been not able to do its work properly due to wickness, let alone having the cargo capacity strength needed to pay for itself and being safe. Daniel As I only build one hull a year, a couple of weeks work, and on every on I work with the owner, who's lifelong dreams are coming true , quickly before his eyes, it never gets boring.
The end of the chine where the cone begins is solid plate once the chine ends, not weld, so one is not dependent on the weld for strength. Where Paul's mast goes thru the deck, a large doubler of heavier plate, plus some flat bars on edge eliminates the chances of anything wobbling . The only compression on the mast is only the weight of the mast, rigging and sails on a junk rig , unlike the tremendous compression on a marconi rig.
Colvin estimates 1,000 hours for a hull and deck, something origami lets you do put together in under 100 hours. As I pointed out in the cabin top example, a curve drastically increases the stiffness of a piece of plate .
None of my boats have ever had problems getting insurance at the best rates, or passing survey. Originally Posted by Brent Swain None of my boats have ever had problems Hope it will stay that way.
Location: British Columbia I have made wineglass sterns by welding the last few inches of centreline first, before cranking the deadrise out with the hydraulic jack. As Herreschoff pointed out , in smaller boats, clipper bows tend to stop a boat dead in her tracks when they hit a steep head sea. Many of my hulls have saved their owners from the disasters which would have resulted in most other cruising boats out there. The hull will need a lot of framing following on from that picture and I'm skeptical that in the long run with a vessel that size it might just re-allocate the build time.
Roberts has a method which is said to be fast, its bottom plate then framing then the rest built bottom up. Location: Scandinavia Nice , just remember some European inland waterway tunnels are pretty low head room, and have speed limits so figure out a engine that is economical at the posted speeds.
If you can arrange for the wheelhouse to dismantle down to 2.5 metres you can include the Midi and Brittany canals in your cruising plans. You should really only ask yourself why you want to design and build your own boat, as there are many answers, the only good one being because you want to experience the quest, the worst answer being that it's cheaper (that's not true).
I have worked out my boat threw the Dave Gerr Scantling rules to get the large idea but then also worked it out threw ABS rules. On the off chance your are going the designing route because you haven't found plans for the boat you wanted. For the english folkes, I think the book is also distibuted in english, but I don't know if it's the integral content of the French version.
4 or 5 have been built and a few stretched versions are on the verge.This is the original at 12 ft long and 4 ft wide. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada If you click on user CP you can see if anyone has docked you points. 12'x 4' though it would be a lot more stable at 5' or better in beam, though it's efficiency will drop quickly. This shape will handle chop and passing powerboat wakes much better then the floating shoe boxes others seem to enjoy.
The design above will easily out perform any of the shanty boat, box boat or square micro cruiser thingies.
Having said that i can once again assure you that you dont want to go that fast in a 12' x 4' (4m x 1.2m) boat. Metal buildings, steel building kits, metal building kits, garage kits, RV covers, and metal carports. These normally cost a couple of thousand Australian dollars more than you could buy the alloy plate for, but they are often well researched and designed kits. The current vessel has a 70 hp inboard diesel and has a top speed of arounf 15 knots with a cruise of 20 to 14 kts. I have not built the second generation hull yet, so I have only the developed frame sections, which do not always match the shape you get in the real world.
If you are in this part of Australia you can come and look at the prototype, which has been in the water for 12 months. Some of the 5000 series alloys are not as stiff as 5083, which is what is normally used for hull construction, and you would need to allow for that. The cost of the hull materials is a very small part of the overall price of any boat and any compromise you make in construction can seriously affect the value of the boat.
What I would strongly recommend is hangin out and reading up on a lot of different threads here. Lots of folks live on houseboats and so can you, just that if your designing your own and its your first, your going to be making lots of mistakes and you need someone to be watching out for you.
I hope to be on the water by June 10th and house part built by July 4th so I can go out and watch fireworks on the lake.

The pontoons and their support framing will account for about 12% of the total build effort required on a vessel as you've described. So make up such a frame for a 40 footer, and I can bend it by hand, by simply putting one end against the wall and pushing on it. By itself, it is as floppy as hell, but once it is tacked down, with a 7 inch camber, with no structural members under it, six guys can stand and jump on it, without it buckling or deforming in any visible way. It will first twist the plating, second will wooble the deck, and third the mast will go thru the hull. I thought you knew that, but evidently you don't, since your very mean attack on my resume prove it. There, a dumb welder with insufficient and outlasted licenses can blame a well established boatbuilder of being a novice. Their excitement , and enthusiasm in seeing a hull take shape in a few hours from flat plate, is contagious.
Everyone likes the idea of a proper engine 'room', but afer you have cruised for a while, using more space for 'living' seems a better idea.
A side and top view without isocurves + perspective rendered images will help to understand the design better.
I am quite deep in my own project and even though I find it hard some days, it's going well, so it must be possible. Make sure the whole process will provide you satisfaction because it takes a lot of will and discipline and won't happen if there isn't a part of fun.
I found the Dave Gerr rules very neat but also found it tends to lead to very heavy scantlings, which is only fine if you take it in consideration in your weigh and balances.
The first volume goes pretty much over what you need to know to start understanding all the implications of the hydrostatics data marine software privides. You would have to reshape the bottom which would preclude planing with a motor so you would be stuck maxing out at about 5 or 6 mph. It looks like a boat, it has full standing headroom, requires very modest power and will leave a clean, unmolested wake. You will soon see that you want to cruise comfortably with sitting head room under the cabin roof to escape the sun. They are normally complete with all alloy needed and can include alloy windows pre-made if required. I will do a plasma cutting schedule for the prototype but the frame sections will have a trimming allowance.
My theory is dont cheep out on the guy watching your back, you can build it yourself out of all kinds of funky stuff but get an NA to watch out for you or one of those mistakes may cost you or your family more than you can afford to loose.
Maybe someone has a persepective that will help both of us with using the right hull or pontoon design to suit your needs. Resale value is the difference between what you can get for a boat and what she cost you in the first place.
The attached framing limits damage and provides safe stress paths which is not only a strength and stiffness issue but also a fatigue issue.
Since your method of framing is floppier for being pre-stressed then the hull structure will buckle more easily. It does develop soft spots once the longitudinal welds are done , which is why I force flat bar beams up under it, on 18 centres , along the direction of the curve, like longitudinals , not fore and aft, across the curve , like transverse frames. The deck is weakest point, the design need more attention since some renforcement can be detrimental localizing the stress inset of diffusing it. If you like the idea of wood, then you should also consider aluminium as wood workers often prefer building in this rather than steel. Steel is a very good option for the amateur builder but not everybody likes to work with it (same for epoxy and glass). I plan on taking my projector and Xbox and playing on a 6' screen in the middle of the lake!!! No matter what it is very clear and goes over hull shapes and weitgh distribution and how it influence balance of a boat.
Say if you were looking at her from the side, she would look like her bow is flat (like your design) but on my design, her bow come to an edge and you can see that looking from the top. It's a fine arrangement if you're needs require the few things they actual offer, but your needs aren't as suited to a mud motor as you might think. Because of the shrinkage rate of alloy during welding, anything that can be bent rather than welded should be taken advantage of.
I have been building custom structures for years in my neck of the woods, and grew up on the water, even so, I plan on getting a naval architect to assist me and check everything Im planning, a second and informed opinion is invaluable in a one off custom.
It's not how much material you put in a structure that makes it effective, it's where you put the material. Highest strake stays in one piece, lower strakes are cut in the middle and ends of the plates are connected. My current boat, with about three inches of outside curve , goes thru a head sea far more smoothly, with far less resistance.The buildup of buoyancy is far less sudden. The deck is weakest point, the design need more attention since some renforcement can be detrimental localizing the stress inset of difusing it.
Their is some part more specific to the sail boat, about balance the underwater and rig but most of it can be applied to your project.
So you can get a reduced puncture resistance if you want, but I'd still put the required framing in. It is where you put the material ,and for puncture resistance, it's best put in plate thickness.

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