Boat design melbourne university,regal boats for sale alabama pdf,14 ft wooden jon boat plans 00 - Plans On 2016

Published 09.11.2013 | Author : admin | Category : Wooden Yachts

The Melbourne International Boat and Lifestyle Show is the largest outdoor lifestyle event in Victoria sprawling from Docklands’ NewQuay down to the festive piazza at Waterfront City, the event will entertain children and adults with a range of activities such as gourmet food, wine, fashion, sailing and canoeing, boat rides, live music and giveaways. R Marine Jacksons dealer principal Stuart Jackson said Riviera had held a strong presence at the Melbourne International Boat and Lifestyle Festival for the past six years. Riviera Syndication will make their Melbourne debut at the boat show with the launch of a new 5800 syndication. Owners of the Melbourne 5800 will have 33 days usage per year with popular time such as public holidays and weekends shared evenly between owners, while owners of the Hamilton Island 5800 will have four weeks usage per year and can be taken in a combination of the owners choice for instance one week four times per year, two weeks twice a year, three weeks and then one week or four weeks once a year.
The European styled 5800 Sport Yacht features three Volvo Penta IPS 600 diesel engines delivering 1,305 horsepower. Location: Australia I think whatever gets retained in the final product needs to be compatible with the marine environment, cotton will absorb water even if doped with resin, and rot. Location: Eustis, FL From an engineering stand point there's a huge difference between a SOF build and what the OP is describing, which is a load bearing, rigid skin.
I've build all sorts of enclosures and structures using the method described, though I usually employ a polyester cloth, rather than cotton. Simply put, you can build like this, but the results with cotton wouldn't be as desirable as other fabrics, for several reasons, most of which have been stated previously. The temporary frame could be more like a SOF build, so oil canning will be less a problem, though you'll still have a faceted look, at least these will flow with the water paths around the hull. There are a number of classes offered around the country which teach skin on frame techniques. From what I have read so far, the two leading techniques are SOF using Nylon, or Polyester. Originally Posted by PAR From an engineering stand point there's a huge difference between a SOF build and what the OP is describing, which is a load bearing, rigid skin.
El_Guero Previous Member   Here is a video from dreamcatcher boats' school.
El_Guero Previous Member   While most SOF builders use a frame to build around, this on-line course builds using only the kayak itself. Originally Posted by upchurchmr Dacron skins over a wood frame are a whole class of Kayak building.
Bill Hamm teaches a course on building a dacron covered kayak, then fiberglassing to get a rigid shell. There some of the forumites have built skin on frame sailboats, but not with rigid skins to my knowledge (which is probably limited). Typical skin on frame results in boats which look like plywood stitch and glue, since the skin only touches the longitudinal members. Originally Posted by spencer321 Maybe if I give a 3d cad this will be simpler, but basically a rigid, structural frame, wrap it in the absorbant material of choice, wet out the material of choice with epoxy resin, once it cures you have a solid rigid skin (although not strong enough you need a few more layers of fiberglass cloth) and a solid interior frame, build your floor inside add glass to outside and you have a hull, let me draw up EXACTLY what I have in mind, maybe thatll help you all tell me yes or no Why epoxy ? Converting monohull into trimaran » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Fiberglass boat restoration project - help needed 1959 Perfromer Boat Co.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: st augustine Yes Porta, a pulling prop would be off a flex shaft extending fwd in direction of travel.
The reason I had the side-mounted prop in the past was so that I could reach it to clean it.
The folding prop can so easily shed weed that it does not need to be accessible so I can now design with more freedom.
The main reason to set the outriggers further aft is to prevent the flop roll when the boat is in a wave trough.
They will also be positioned close to where they will sit on the bow wave when I am at cruise speed.


I will probably have two part shaft with a more rigid section through the shaft tube and then a flexible section to get the curve.
Location: USA Pulling props with flex propsa as you describe will dive, by my observation many years ago.
Wonder if Rick has worked out a way to save the prop, should the flex shaft break when a skeg is not used. Originally Posted by blisspacket Yes Porta, a pulling prop would be off a flex shaft extending fwd in direction of travel.
It is easy enough to design the shafts for infinite life but I have pushed the limit to get the prop located beside me within reach. Location: st augustine Rick, the shaft specs of 2011 T8,10 mm: is that the optimum? Location: USA Do you expect to hit or tangle with anything in your travels with this motorboat? Originally Posted by blisspacket Rick, the shaft specs of 2011 T8,10 mm: is that the optimum?
Guest625101138 Previous Member   If you can get high strength stainless it could be better than the aluminium.
For the prop design you either need an accurate prediction of the speed at the proposed power or a good representation of the hull so the drag can be calculated with some precision. Location: USA I run at 50 watts maximum and that peaks at about 100 watts at stall with my small setup. A small tension strut fitted with stainless bearings will cost 2 to 3W and overcomes the problem of the shaft dangling down when at rest.
My main purpose of the curved shaft is not to avoid the strut but to get a shaft that transmits torque smoothly to a high aspect prop that is aligned with flow. If you do restrain the shaft so it cannot fully wander to the flow you will find you get vibrations when you are turning. The design consideration for the shaft are buckling force (I have not found a limit but believe there will be one lower than the compressive strength of the material), shear strength from torque and fatigue life from the cyclic bending stress as the shaft rotates. For fatigue the design with an electric motor is not constrained in the same way as a pedal boat because torsional compliance would be beneficial for shock absorbing. Most aluminum specialist suppliers in Australia have a machinable grade (2011 T8 or similar) 10mm round in 4m length for about AUD20. I think you will find the curve shaft a really neat solution but take some time to set it up properly.
Location: USA My fiberglass prop shafts are only 4', so it is probable there would be buckling issues if the same exact chimney sweep rod material is used for an unsupported 8' shaft at 600 watts. I suspect that fiberglass or carbon shafts specifically designed for drive shaft purposes might be the way to go in the long run. Could something be learned about buckling strength for fiber composites by studying the poles used in pole vaulting?
Location: Huntersville, NC Design Info on Galway Hooker Live at Lake Norman, NC and am part of beginning wooden boat building group. Location: Huntersville, NC Info on Irish Boat, Galway Hooker Tad, Thanks for the suggestion, I have registered there and posted my question.
Location: Melbourne, Australia Ian Oughtred did a planset for a modern take on the Galway Hooker can recall reading about it in Wooden Boat.
Location: Melbourne, Australia My apologies somehow got my wires crossed the article was actually on Loch Fyne skiffs. Lauderdale Florida Keys San Diego Columbus Milwaukee San Francisco Oakland San Jose Dallas Ft.
The use of cotton would be fine, with no risk of moisture penetration, assuming good wetout and epoxy resin.


The fabric could be removable after the laminate is applied or if it remains, it would be intelligent to have the fibers in this mold fabric, participate to a significant degree, with the finished structure. Only downside I can see is dragging it up onto a beach, would the shaft in the hull be rigid and then flexible shaft in the water?
Reason being its a new shaft and unlikely to break and also the skeg rattled around a lot in the guide. I don't think 10mm Al will survive peak human power (600 watts) at stall conditions with a stiff 16" prop. Accelerate gradually and don't encounter STALL conditions by say tangling your prop to a dead stop position. There are easy solutions involving trade offs to the buckling issues, such thicker diameters, shorter runs or supporting struts. Corrosion, fatigue, weight, sudden break failure mode and deformation are essentially non issues compared to metals.
I think FG still holds many of the world records there, sometimes with essentially infinite flexing life.
Something about small fishing craft, simple and honest but the lines just flow and they sail well. This said, the material of choice should have a modulus similar to the resin system used, additionally it would be wise if this fabric was light and didn't absorb more resin then necessary, to keep strength up, and weight down. If you see post #596 on this list you can see that a pulling POSITION would jam into anything as you move forward, folding or not. When I need to reverse I grab the shaft with my hand and raise it enough to get it straight, using my hand as a shaft housing. But unsupported ridgid shafts introduce additional issues like tending to flail around instead operating in a smooth mode as you have seen with the very accomodating flex shaft. Even small Thai longshaft motors have sheathed, unflexible, heavy duty 20mm+ shafts and small, slippery props to avoid twist torques near stall and survive. Makes for an extremely lightweight power unit of about 3# which I can remove in a second from the mount and hold in my hand like a power drill if necessary. I started with the Lowes rods and they were virtually indestructible, but too heavy and way over specks at my low power. Torsional failure has been a more difficult issue when working with existing shafts that have been adapted for MINIMAL dimensions and maximum life in my applications. I wonder if using some kind of mesh or netting under the tightly woven fabric might help keep it fairer. I don't know for sure if it makes any difference if you use a pulling or pushing prop in a trailing position, so long as it is mounted properly (puller-face foward, pusher-face reverse).
If the outriggers were mounted forward of the gearbox would this result in less wash from the boat hitting the outriggers?
Ramming a forward mounted shaft into a log, bank or bottom would be pretty intense for the rider and equipment at racing speeds. Also the prop will push to get horizontal as it supplies thrust, which is another thing which will be a source of longitudinal stress. I never worry about fatigue or a bent shaft which has to be straightened, everything springs back, they can even be packed in an arc position.
Rick has mastered the trick of balancing these stresses and allowing the prop to get in its natural position in operation while giving a good shaft life. My own approach is to use much more forgiving fiberglass shafts with my low power electric motors.



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Comments to ¬ęBoat design melbourne university¬Ľ

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