Boat engine cooling system diagram,how to make a deck on a jon boat,boat dealers in saskatchewan canada river,boat rental middle tennessee kayaking - Easy Way

Published 18.02.2016 | Author : admin | Category : Diy Sailboat Plans

Location: Canada Closed Cooling System (Half) I would like to get your opinion on the setup of a half closed cooling system for my 250 6cyl boat engine.
My experience with a 327 Chevvy engine in Cook inlet AK with just the Heat exchanger was great. Make sure your sea water pump is accessible for cleaning and have a good strainer on the inlet. Original , the engine pumps raw water up , through itself and it's exhaust system , and then overboard . Location: Adriatic sea What you have invented is the standard solution for all marine engines with a water cooled exhaust, except that you use a keel cooler instead of a heat exchanger and you forgot the expansion tank (you will discover you really need one). When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Now that you hopefully understand the basics of the cooling system, lets look at the source of the process, and the things that can go wrong, causing an overheat situation.
Moving on to the thermostat, the next possible culprit of an overheating problem in the cooling system. Finally, the third most common reason of an overheat problem with the cooling system can be attributed to clogged water passages, usually in the exhaust manifolds.
What I was thinking of implementing is keel pipes cooling the engine and trans oil cooler (closed system) and cooling the marine manifold by pumping in raw water from a thru hull fitting into the marine manifold then out and into the wet exhaust. There are bigger experts on this forum with possibly better ideas, but the design you currently have is sub-optimal I think. This configuration utilizes contained antifreeze in the main part of the motor and also uses a heat exchanger much like the purpose of a radiator in an automotive application.


This pump is the heart of the cooling system, and if anything goes wrong here, an overheat problem is inevitable. Failures here, are typically the same as in figure 3, except that shaft lock up does not usually occur. Also, if you operate your boat in salt water, make sure to flush your engine and cooling system after every use. With this system, the motor is totally dependent of fresh seawater being present to provide proper cooling characteristics. The difference being instead of relying on air flow to cool the antifreeze, fresh seawater is pumped through the heat exchanger and then exits the boat through the exhaust.
Failures can include worn or damaged impeller, worn or damaged housing, and impeller shaft lock up. If it does, you've got much bigger problems, and you need to refer to the drive section for further information. If you have an overheating problem, and the impeller and thermostat are in good shape, remove the riser from the exhaust manifold Figure 7, and inspect water passages for blockage. Following these simple guidelines will protect your marine engine from serious damage, and the mechanical skills required are fairly minimal. The cooling system of a marine engine is armed with an electronic audio alert device simply called a "warning horn". It is recommended that the impeller be changed every two years regardless of amount of usage. As long as the thermostat opens as designed, everything is fine, if it doesn't then overheating will surely result.


The thermostat should connect to a valve which will redirect coolant from a continuous flowing loop to the engine, so it starts to get cooled too. They just do diesel engines and gas engines produce more heat being less efficient but I think they are almost the same at WOT so I'll guess it would be the about the same as diesel. If you hear a shrill high pitch sound coming from under the dash, or from the throttle box while under power, heed the warning, and do not continue operation of motor. An impeller will usually go bad due to dry rot from non-usage, rather than being worn out from excessive usage, and can also be damaged from running motor with insufficient water supply. You don't want the coolant standing still in the keel pipes, as it could get very cold, putting strain on the engine if it suddenly starts flowing to the engine. Since your'e only going to cool the exhaust manifold you probably would be fine w the same pump that I have. You should also test the function of the warning horn periodically by disconnecting the brown wire attached to the engine temperature sensor, and with key switch in the "on" position, directly touch the brown wire to a good known ground source. When replacing the impeller, make sure to apply a thin layer of light weight grease to the inner surface of the impeller housing. You could use a heat exchanger, cooled by the fresh water, as an alternative to the keel pipes. If the shaft locks up, there is no real way to service, so the pump must be replaced as a whole.



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