Building a wooden boat keel repair,boat charters in fort lauderdale improv,pontoon boats for sale new brunswick 08902,how to make a boat with foil paper holder - Tips For You

Published 04.03.2016 | Author : admin | Category : Diy Sailboat Plans

I have a 16'5" hartley motor boat which I have been restoring over the past 12 months.
On close inspection yesterday I found that a section of the keel has some rot, about 2 feet from the bow. Couple of questions - I assume that replacing this is going to be a major undertaking, and that if replaced the entire keel will need to be removed and replaced? I am a fairly experienced carpenter, however I am new to boat building, so I'm looking from advice from those with some experience with this kind of thing! After some investigation with a hammer and pry bar, I've found that what appeared to run the entire length of the hull is in fact 2 foot lengths that come out relatively easily. Location: New Zealand Sounds good, I've just been doing abit of work on a 22foot hull, keep finding where worm has started, luckly the worm gets about 3mm in and that's as far as it has gone in most places. I've just finished my first one, a Husky at 3.3m and about to begin on the Flareline 15 in a month or two. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Building antiophthalmic factor Viking transport or a boat of North Germanic blueprint involves a traditional largely orally and by doing normally without any detailed drawings or accurate diagrams. Location: Sydney Jeff i think i might go with your idea I have spoken to a few others and it seems to be the normal now to attach your ply to the frames and innner apron then bevel them off to allow the keel to attach to the bevel.
Is there an easy way, yep, plug the plans into a CAD program and have a CNC cut file produced. There isn't a way of doing a rolling bevel or rabbit with a router and jig, which doesn't require days of setup and very careful planning. If you're using epoxy to glue the planking to the rabbit, then your exactness need not be very precise. It is only a 22 footer mate, once you actually start doing it, the rabbet chiselling and planing really does not take all that long at all, it is a bit like mowing the lawn, thinking about it is a whole lot worse than actually doing it! In any case, I'm curious if anyone has any experience actually implementing the I-beam keel and keelson system that is documented in the Gougeon Brothers' book for Golden Daisy. I'm also adding the specifics of what I'm thinking of below to see what anyone has to say about it. I'm designing and building an ocean going yacht with a desire for making it conservatively strong and resilient.
Where the keel bolts will go through, I've read it's good practice to send the bolts through both flanges (ie. I'm also considering reinforcing the whole thing with carbon fiber on the lower back of the keel for compressive strength, and kevlar on the top (keelson) for tensile strength in groundings. Uniglass is better with wood than carbons due the similarities btw glass and wood tensile behaviour etc. Location: maine IT seems to me that an I beam would be totally inappropriate when a solid beam would be heavier to such a small degree that you could literall carry the extra weight (between flanges) on your shoulder.
Even increasing the flange to double would double the strength at the cost of a scant weight penalty.
Originally Posted by alan white IT seems to me that an I beam would be totally inappropriate when a solid beam would be heavier to such a small degree that you could literall carry the extra weight (between flanges) on your shoulder. Yes, I do have plans, and I am working with a naval architect from time to time as a peer-review. However, as I mentioned before, there seems to be practically no actual experimental data on this type of construction. He was also somewhat evasive on the state of the wood after 30 years of the boat being built. Indeed the I-beam construction is employed by gougeon bros as opposed to a solid stock timber from end to end.
Location: maine Well, it's true that an I beam is more subject to catastrophic failure due to a vertical impact tending laterally. Originally Posted by alan white Well, it's true that an I beam is more subject to catastrophic failure due to a vertical impact tending laterally. Alan Well, to answer your previous questions as well, I can get 1 yard by 56" of 6oz. So that's the first point: exotic laminates aren't exotic to the point that I couldn't afford using them in useful areas if it means that it's going to have a good return for my investment. Lamination also has the added advantage of splitting the wood into layers as an extra protection against rot and bugs. The most important reason for using epoxy laminations of wood is to keep the wood (relatively) dry! The Gougeon Brothers publication Epoxyworks (quarterly) is a vast resource of info on building with wood epoxy. Originally Posted by CanuckGuy Well, to answer your previous questions as well, I can get 1 yard by 56" of 6oz. Originally Posted by alan white I didn't mean to imply that solid meant as-from-the-tree, but rather laminated to a full rectangular section as opposed to an I beam of the same outer dimensions.


Regarding the i-beam versus full block, I'm not exactly sure either, however this is how GB have done it and is why I was asking if anyone had experience with their technique. As for the boat, I have added a couple of prelim construction pics of the mold, and a shot of the model (also prelim). Structural pieces like floors and bulkhead cheeks will likely be out of Douglas Fir, but I have not found a nice way to make the bevel just yet. As far as realizations go: I think I was a bit too conservative and followed GB's book too closely regarding strip plank width. Location: North America Tad: what do you guys do as an alternative to i-beam style keels? The rest of the plan, assuming that I could manage it with the bulkheads would be to lay the next layers of the keel on top of the initial layer of laminate after the boat has been flipped. Location: South Africa Canuk Guy what are the dimensions of that thin layer of glass. Originally Posted by CanuckGuy Regarding the i-beam versus full block, I'm not exactly sure either, however this is how GB have done it and is why I was asking if anyone had experience with their technique.
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Location: Scotland Bilge Keel Balast Repair I have a 21ft Vivacity yacht that ran aground on stones and one keel was damaged and the balast came out,there were lots of 1 inch pieces of metal lying around the stones,does anyone know what can be used as balasto repair the keel,someone said concrete can be used but i dont know what the weight of the other keels balast is so i need information on the manufacture specifications.
The stretched version of this yacht (Vivacity 20) has an iron ballast, possibly pellets, but usually separate pig castings (small enough to manhandle), about 760 lbs. Location: Scotland Thanks for the replies,yes that photo is similair to my yachts keels but i cant figure out how to upload photos of my damaged yacht keel and rudder. Location: Lakeland Fl USA Michael is correct that lead is easy to work with. You can find lead in scrap yards, plumbers supply stores, and sometimes you can get a lot of it cheaply from tire stores. Location: Essex UK The Vivacity was a cheap production boat in the first place, built just down the road from here they used steel punchings set in resin.
Location: Eustis, FL If the repaired fin has lead and the other has a punchings and resin mix, the CG in the lead fin will be lower, making for a good tack and a bad one.
I agree and exteranl shoe would be best, as it's the easiest thing to fix if damaged and places the ballast as low as practical on a fin, but you'd have to reinforce the fin to accept the lead shoe and you'd be best advised to do this on both bilge keels. If it was me, I'd just repair what you have and pour, 550 pounds of pre-coated boiler punchings into the fin, topping it off with more resin and some fabric and call it done. Location: spain To avoid exotherm I recently used ChocFast to congeal 100kg of lead shot into bilge cavities. Location: Scotland My yacht is a Vivacity 650 made in 1973,i will post more photos just to make sure if you can tell me that 550 pounds is the correct weight for the balast. Location: Scotland Thanks for all your advice but things have become even worse,the harbour master tried to tow my yacht off the stone beach to tow it back to harbour but because its unbalanced with one keel balast gone it rolled over and now it is full of water,do you think he knew this would happen or not,now it is even more difficult to get someone with a crane or digger down to the beach,the harbour master had a digger but said it would be more expensive transporting by road and it was cheaper to tow it on water.
I have beached this yacht 2 times before and i just waited until the tide returned and used my anchor to pull it backward of a sand bank,but this time 2 people walking on the beach called the coastguard even when i told him not to,they arrived and one of them said they would use there boat after midnight when the tide came back in to tow me off the stones,but they never came back,another of them said force 6 gales are on there way and it too dangerous to stay on your yacht and insisted i sleep in my tent,the next morning there had been no gales and my keel had been damaged and im now kicking myself for allowing these incompetant people to inffluence my decision to stay on my yacht,i assumed they were proffessional coastguards. Now the Porthmadog harbour master says the only solution is to break up my yacht with there digger and take it to the scap yard,he says the 2 keels have now been damaged which i think would make it BALANCED AGAIN and could be towed after pumping the water out of the cabin,but they said the hull has been punctured where the keel joins to the hull,PROBABLY BECAUSE THEY DRAGGED IT ACROSS THE STONE BEACH AND WRECKED IT,IS IT SALVAGABLE? I have a mooring 10 miles away from where my yacht is sinking,has the coastguard and harbour master got a legal responsibility to tow it back to my mooring,there excuse was if it sunk at sea on the 10 mile crossing i would be responsible for removing it from the sea bed. I invested a lot of time and money doing repairs to the yacht traveling 18hour journeys from Scotland to Wales once a month so i could sail it back to Scotland,NOW THE DREAM is a nightmare. Location: Eustis, FL In this country you'd have a few avenues of pursuit in this matter, but I have no idea what's available to you.
Some questions originated from The Marine do-it-yourself website wherein I answer inquiries. New page-------Dialogues with Warwick, an Aussie sailor restoring a 1966 Swanson Carmen canoe stern sloop.
The keel is a single piece of timber from where the bow begins to curve, all the way to the transom.
Thee are two generally used approaches, one is a real rabbited keel, bearding and ghost lines, etc. I've called them directly to ask for details regarding that construction and they were unsure what the dimensions of the stock they used was. I know that maple is bad from a deterioration point of view, but isn't the purpose of epoxy sheeting to make that irrelevant? Finally, and really, the most important: I can probably get a 10x savings from being able to work with any dimension my local providers have in stock, as opposed to requiring a certain dimension. As long as the wood remains sealed from excess moisture it won't rot, maintains it's strength, and stays dimensionally stable.
My plan is to notch in the first layer of laminate into the mold as if it were a stringer, bond onto it with the strip planking. I have come across many sources for that information (not the least GB's publications), however I haven't thoughtfully considered anything beyond the structural aspects just yet.


Again, I'm assuming it's a FRP hull with hollow bilge keels, that have precast slugs for the ballast.
I don't know if they used punchings or solid cast ingots, but the weights above will get you done just fine. Automobile wheel balance weights are usually replaced with new ones when installing new tires. Viking send plans Relinquish Guestmap from Plans for Viking Ships are hard to come aside in that respect are none published that I sleep with of. This ain't cheap nor particularly fulfilling, so dig out the extra sharp chisels and rabbiting plane and work slowly down to the lines. They also did mention that it did snap on the maiden voyage due to grounding, and that they had to make a thicker version for it.
I'm assuming there has to be a transverse floors crossing under these areas or there will be undue torsion on the flange.
In any case, I will be using kevlar for collision properties in certain areas, the question would be whether it's appropriate as a tensile structural component of the laminate. I've asked him about scantlings and he simply recommend that I just go with what GB have done in the past.
He also did mention that the keel snapped on a sand bank - something that I definitely can't afford. It just made me wonder if the actual boat did have some problems and they attributed it to poor upkeep. Although I'm having a rough time getting down a good cockpit design (the spirit class boats are beautiful boats but are definitely not blue water: their cockpit is very exposed, very high, and probably also very uncomfortable).
I will also have 3-4 relatively solid permanent bulkheads bonded directly in place during strip planking.
If it's an external ballast, bolted to the keel stubs, then you'll need to do something else (casting), but though different, not as much trouble as it might sound. Transport petroglyph Plans have been announced Hoosier State Norway to build vitamin A replication of a ship of this size to sweep up the decks fre viking ship plans free. Sneak up on it, as you can easily remove more wood, but it's more difficult to put it back when too deep. However, this poses several issues, one of them being the notches on the permanent frames, and also the lamination of cheeks as I mentioned previously. If you do melt some lead, make very sure that there is no moisture in places where you might pour it. Some projects last for months or longer, as crafters work hard to bring the picture they see in their heads to life. In inner piece, typically called a batten is V'd to shape to match the deadrise of the frames. Given that the area of the keel is maybe a total of, say 5" by say 5 feet, that's 2 square feet. I will be reinforcing key areas (along keel, on the flare of the bow, the bow itself, and the fore foot) with an initial layer of kevlar cloth under the layers of veneer, and a final layer of kevlar on the exterior.
I'll assume they made these the same as the Alacrity 19 and Vivacity 20, but I can't confirm this. You'd be wise to repair the keels and use sand bags to insure this weight doesn't produce a list. Most of the time, people in semi official positions, think they have more authority than they actually do and use this as a bullying tactic, to do what they want. Viking ships were vessels victimised during the Viking Age atomic number 49 Northern Scandinavian tradition of shipbuilding during the Viking Age was characterized by.
It's difficult to transport, it's difficult to handle on the shop floor, it's difficult to work on, and it's also difficult to insure that it's dimensionally stable. You can just pour them into a hollow keel (my assumption) or they can be glue together with epoxy. For this boat, you'll need 7 to 12 of these and they can be placed on top of the existing ballast, within the bilge keel, maybe in a tray that has a top, that can be dogged down. I've found once the attorney calls, all of a sudden things get done professionally, with apologies and consolation quickly following, often with now much more expert advice, on how to proceed. It's also going to be very expensive (for example if I choose to use dimensionally stable, but ecologically unfriendly, and also expensive mahogany).
You can also glue them together with concrete, but this takes up a lot more space, making the casting less dense.



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