Building fiberglass boat hull design,pontoon boats for sale in port st lucie fl dmv,boat trailers for sale bc canada map - For Begninners

Published 16.07.2014 | Author : admin | Category : Wood Boat Plans

Solar Powered Boat Hull Hi, I'm new to this forum, but figured there was no where better to get help in building a boat than a boat forum. Composites One is a major supplier to most of the boatbuilding companies in the country, and they can also give you the technical advise that you will need. Do you have any suggestions for the best core material for our application that is easy to work with?
Location: spain Foam is nice stuff, but expensive and tricky to use for beginners.
In the front you might experience some difficulties to plank without heat bending, but consider changing the direction of the planks there. Strongplank was made in a quite cumbersome manner, weaving fibers around the core, then manually impregnating them, clamping them in moulds, then sand after cure. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. I have been asked on many occasions, which type of boat hull is best and I thought it would make the subject of an interesting article. Robustness – Having recently had a student back our fiberglass boat into the wharf and send splinters of fiberglass to the bottom of the bay, I appreciate the undeniable strength of an aluminium hull which would have  probably come off better then the wharf.
Weight – Lightweight hull requires less engine HP to push it through the water hence less $$. Repair – Small dents in aluminium hulls are easily repaired, however when larger areas of damage occur it is difficult and costly to repair. Corrosion – Aluminium hulls have been known to suffer in salt-water environments due to corrosion. Cold – Aluminium boats tend to be colder then their counterparts as they conduct heat away quicker and can be more prone to condensation. Anti-fouling – [For those who don’t know] Anti-foul is the paint on the bottom of boats that live in the water and helps prevent marine growth to the bottom of the boat. Aesthetics – A fiberglass hull can be moulded into fancy shapes and sleek lines that an aluminium owner can only  stand back and admire. Repairs – It is easy to find people to repair fiberglass, also there are few minor accidents that a $15 tube of Epifill can’t sort out. Maintenance – Fiberglass boats tend to require less hull maintenance and vigilance, there are no rivets, welds or corrosion to worry about.


Location: Canada replacing stringers I'm fairly new to boating, I don't know the slang and proper words of most things I'll be talking about here, so bare with me and educate me when needed. I got some 2X4 that have been sitting in the basement for over a year so it's safe to say they are dry. I'm on a tight budget, but I still want to make sure I don't sink first time I take her back to the lake. I have no idea how to change the rotten wood in the transom because it's got that pit right in front of it. Add stringers inside the extension running in the same position as stringers infront of the old transom. Since I have no weight distribution yet, it gives me more scope for making the extension without effecting the ride yet. The next step is to tape the seams with the Biaxial tape and sheath the entire bottom with the 9 oz wide woven cloth.
Begin by cutting all your tape pieces to length - lay them out all dry before mixing any epoxy.
30 minutes later (or when ever the epoxy has become tacky) is the right time to lay your tape onto the seams.
Where multiple layers of biaxial tape overlap (bow and transom), wet out one at layer at a time.
An optional step that help to save on fairing time is to cover the wet glass with plastic sheeting. Augustine, FL, USA Go to Composites One who are a major composites distributor. Augustine, FL, USA I prefer Core-Cell (SP Systems--Gurit) because is has good properties and comes in a variety of forms. Augustine, FL, USA Call one of their sales offices closest to you and start asking questions about price. I have no idea of the skills present in your project group, but perhaps it is an idea to invite someone experienced to have him show his skills.
If you plank your way from the deck up to the keel, in narrow strips (the width dependant on the curve it needs to make) then you probably do not need to heat bend.
The problem is that pipe smoking white haired gentlemen have a tendency to passionately defend the style of boat they are familiar with, regardless of the competitor’s admirable qualities.


You also need to be careful how your electrical connections and other metals touch the aluminium as they can react and corrode.
I have bought a SINGLE Yanmar 6LY2A-STP Deisel Turbo 440hp to power her as opposed to the twin Chrysler v8's that were in there.
I'm trying to gain a little more deck space & visually have it look in proportion with the new top i'm designing. I dare say that the bow will be heavier than originally anyway so the transom will offset that & keep me in perspective.
Your laminate will be cleaner, stronger, and use less epoxy if you wet out the wide cloth while the taped seams are not yet hard.
While pot life is limited, once the resin is spread on the hull, it will stay workable for quite a long time. I am just a little confused by some of the sites I have seen, like about sheets and rolls and resins. This is normally caused by factory flaws and un-repaired damage to the gelcoat (shiny outer layer of the hull) through which water can seep.
I myself am a fiberglass convert but this may simply be because these are the types of boats I have grown up with, and haven’t had a lot to do with aluminium. I also think that I will save alot on weight from old furniture & excess garbage that was used as it was built 30 years ago so new materials will not weigh as much.
If anyone knows any vendor closer to Rochester, NY that'd be best since it would decrease the cost of shipping. I'm sure I could try to talk some companies down in price a little for sponsorship recognition.
Plus i can move the engine aound too then (very last job) She used to be right on 4 tonnes (8000lbs).
Because of this engine I am going to be cutting a minor tunnel in due to the size of the prop being 24inches or more plus a skeg for protection.




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