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Published 19.01.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Sailing Skiff Plans

4 or 5 have been built and a few stretched versions are on the verge.This is the original at 12 ft long and 4 ft wide.
Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada If you click on user CP you can see if anyone has docked you points.
12'x 4' though it would be a lot more stable at 5' or better in beam, though it's efficiency will drop quickly. This shape will handle chop and passing powerboat wakes much better then the floating shoe boxes others seem to enjoy. The design above will easily out perform any of the shanty boat, box boat or square micro cruiser thingies. Having said that i can once again assure you that you dont want to go that fast in a 12' x 4' (4m x 1.2m) boat. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. BILL THOMAS grew up paddling the rivers and coast of North and South Carolina, playing in the mountains and trying find meaningful work while avoiding a real job.
JOHN KARBOTT spent most of his childhood along the beaches and waterfront of Plymouth, Massachusetts, watching commercial lobsterboats and occasionally catching a ride on one. There are many individuals out there who have decided that they would like to build their very own boat but don’t know how to get started. Bill has chosen a Karl Stambaugh design, the Bay Skiff 12 as the boat students will construct during his course. As both skiffs take shape through each week, Bill and John will lead discussions in small-craft design, selecting a suitable design for the amateur builder, setting up a one-man shop, proper hand and power tool usage, and much more. Originally Posted by Dave-Fethiye Probably the ballast can be 3 of the said barrells filled with concrete. I thought that you mat be interested in these photos that I took of two floating platforms. Maybe this is of some use to Madman's plans - afterall you could put anything on these platforms. Location: Nova Scotia, Canada Thanks Dave, that's just what I'm looking for. Boat Building Academy students Mike Tyler, Jon Bicknell and Andy Blundy built this strip-built South Bay-style catboat to a design worked up by the students with the help of instructor Mike Broome. Mike Tyler is now at Pangbourne, Reading, and involved in setting up the new Beale Park Maritime Museum.
Jon comes from a background in information technology design and Jon worked predominantly with Mike on Lucie – although did spend an hour here and there on other builds. Having finished the course is now busy finding his feet in the boat building industry. I am part of a team of volunteers at the Long Island Marine Museum where a full size Gil Smith Catboat was newly built several years ago. Have you got news for us?If what you're doing is like the things you read about here - please write and tell us what you're up to.
Classic Sailor is a new magazine about traditional and classic boats from ex-Classic Boat editor Dan Houston and colleagues that promises rather more coverage of the traditional craft around our coast.
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Our Faversham-based friend Alan Thorne can help with boatbuilding projects - constructing to plans in very tidy stitch-and-glue or more traditional techniques.
I'm new around here - having just bumped into the forum this evening - but want to share something. The story so far: starting out from complete scratch, I've started building myself a very small wooden boat.
Below I've included some pictures of my progress, as well as my 'plans', which are really just a quick sketch.
I plan to make matching oars for the boat, and possibly add an electric trawling motor, which should propel it at a good clip. In terms of actual construction, I've used Spanish Cedar (Cedrela odorata) and African Mahogany (Khaya ivorensis).
I'd love to hear if anyone has comments or questions, and I'll try to keep this thread up to date with any developments, but the weather is still a few weeks away from cooperating with me. Location: Eustis, FL If that blue line does represent the immersed volume it would be in the 700 to 800 pound range which is so over loaded it'll swamp in anything other then a still swimming pool.


I was pretty satisfied with the projected displacement - but ultimately have no experience. Location: Brisbane What would make you think that a boat less than 10 feet, built of light wood, would weigh in over 600 lbs? If you plan on rowing this puppy, build as light as you can and trim the boat with the transom clear of the water.
There is only one problem: you're getting me all excited to try it out, and it isn't ready yet!
Location: Eustis, FL Your trolling motor will only push the boat to about 4 knots which is within it's displacement speed envelop, meaning yep, the transom should just clear or be slightly kissing the water underway.
You will not really have an idea of how things will work until you splash her and preform some trials under power and oar.
The boat is now outside (has been for a week or two - hasn't turned into a mass of splinters due to humidity, either) and I've started all the messy stuff. In the coming weeks I'll be adding trim, gunnels, etc., then flipping it over and doing seats and the like.
Keep in mind that it'll be 'dry sailed' (only in the water a few hours at a time) and that I want to keep as much water as possible away from my adhesives.
Location: maine Polyurethane, by your description, that which is used to cover floors, and which is clear rather than being a paint, is not thicker than varnish.
Assuming you want to get a clear finish, the varnish has a UV protective additive that won't be found in the polyurethane. You could lay down some plyurethane and protect it with varnish but why go to asll that trouble when varnish alone will do the job?
Then you'll have more protection from the sun, which quickly turns polyurethane to a yellow hazy powder. If you start with spar varnish, (as it is properly called), you'll have to do at least 6 coats and probably 8. It's your boat, however, so varnish away if you must, but be aware you're making a purse from a sow's ear, which is fine, but you may want to know the truth, and save a few dozen hours of hard labor. Location: Eustis, FL Polyurethanes cure much faster then traditional varnishes.
To be honest, I'd been trying to stay clear of epoxy, but I guess I'll be giving it another look now.
I like the suggestion of epoxying the hull and inside bottom, and then finishing with another clear finish. You would have to reshape the bottom which would preclude planing with a motor so you would be stuck maxing out at about 5 or 6 mph. It looks like a boat, it has full standing headroom, requires very modest power and will leave a clean, unmolested wake. You will soon see that you want to cruise comfortably with sitting head room under the cabin roof to escape the sun.
Neither the service provider nor the domain owner maintain any relationship with the advertisers. He has been a self-employed woodworker, cabinetmaker, furniture builder and boatbuilder for nearly 35 years. Many first-time builders have run into problems understanding the process of what to do first and, as a result, soon get intimidated and the idea loses momentum. Whether you have a hankering for traditional skiff construction like the Bay Skiff 12 or the 12 ?′ Semi-dory skiff or are simply looking for a perfect introduction to wooden boat construction, you will thoroughly enjoy any of these weeks.
I will power it with any outboard but will probably tow it to its ancorage site with my boat.
However, he seems to be a man of many interests: previously he had studied sculpture at art college, where he frequently worked with driftwood, and dreamed of becoming a boat builder. Try scrolling down, clicking on the 'older posts' button at the bottom of this page - or try the search gadget! I have a little project going that might be appreciated around here - or, quite possibly, picked to pieces!. Really, there is nothing in my past to indicate I'm capable of doing such a thing, but, being a little bull-headed when it comes to looking things up like a responsible person would, I've just plowed ahead at pretty much full steam. I've actually got the entire haul planked over the frame (such as it is) and am now ready to do some finishing.
I'll probably use some white ash as well, as I can get it locally in long lengths and for a good price.


I'd done a very rough calculation (ignoring both the rake of the sides and the curve of the bottom) to determine the displacement. It is also misleading in that the actual boat is closer to 9 feet long, as that let me build without having to scarf any of the planks. All this will take a while, but I've started to think more seriously about how to finish the boat as well. Spar Varnish is regular varnish, but with more UV inhibitors, which makes it appear with a more amber glow on wood. I know someone who has built several stitch and glue kit boats, and am familiar with the basic principles of epoxying a boat.
In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois). Being an avid sea kayaker and boater, Bill also designs sea kayaks, canoes, and other small boats.
Bill Thomas and John Karbott, noted boatbuilders and teachers, invite anyone interested in wooden boats and woodworking to join them in either of these two six-day courses focusing on the skills and techniques used in basic boatbuilding.
I learned so much in just one week and gained the confidence needed to start my first boat at home. I'm a pretty heavy guy at around 210lb, but even with another passenger and a bit of lunch (plus the boat, which is pretty light) it should be OK in calm water. Does this advise remain the same when using an electric trawling motor, or is it specific to rowing? Polyurethanes are generally superior to regular varnish in moisture protection (by a few percent), but are harder to repair or touch up when the time comes.
Regular varnish is a different animal and application is more of an art form, subject to lots of debate, technique and methods. Say if you were looking at her from the side, she would look like her bow is flat (like your design) but on my design, her bow come to an edge and you can see that looking from the top. It's a fine arrangement if you're needs require the few things they actual offer, but your needs aren't as suited to a mud motor as you might think. Bill teaches woodworking and boatbuilding in his own shop, at the WoodenBoat School and in other venues across the United States. While in school, he lobstered and raked sea moss during the summer season and worked odd jobs throughout the winter. The holes are just the right size to allow water in but restrict it's movement out of the bag. We don’t see a lot of Catboats but I reckon they suit our sailing grounds remarkably well. You might need to build a motor mount that is vertical or raked aft to get decent performance from the motor. I think I came up with about 600 lbs (so, you're pretty much right on the money there PARR - especially when you consider I ignored the fact the boat gets wider near the top).
600lb was the figure I came up with for how much weight (boat plus cargo) it would take to bring the waterline half way up the sides of the boat, not how much I projected the boat would weigh. It has also been suggested to me that I use spar varnish, as it will go on a lot thinner, won't run so bad and setup quicker too.
He graduated from Boston’s Wentworth Institute with an Associate Degree in Architectural Engineering, but boats and the water were his first loves.
If you want to build a good-looking, simple sailing skiff, Bill or John can help you get started and guide you through the step-by-step procedures to taking on and completing such a project on your own. The variety of work Bill does: building, designing and teaching both in the shop and on the water, when coupled with his passion for the outdoors, helps to keep his skills rooted in real world experiences. After owning and maintaining wooden boats all his life, he decided to pursue that career full time and sold his successful lobstering business. The barrels will flood when you put the raft in the water and provide your ballast free of charge.
The 2" holes will be small enough to restrict the flow of water out of the barrels when it's moving. The benefit is when you drydock the raft the barrels just drain and you don't have to haul a couple tonnes of concrete out of the water.



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