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Published 29.05.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Sailboat Drawings

During May 2012 at Dreamcatcher Boats, Roger made a skin-on-frame boat and covered it with an amazingly beautiful cedar strip deck.
Not only is the Cosine Wherry a beautiful looking boat, it is a boat with plenty of stability. This boat will keep you dry in rough weather, carry up to 500 pounds, yet is lightweight (approx. Search-Boats is a Boats & Yachts classifieds search engine to find different boat types for sale New and Used. Cove up during the build is usual and less messy but the cove is more vulnerable to damage than the bead. I'm not sure what staples would have to do with the cove up-down decision, but I read someplace they are best placed across the seam unless you are taking a break after the current strip in which case they are best placed in the center of it. I'm not sure which glue you are using, but assuming you will cover the boat with epoxy and glass fiber, ordinary carpenter's glue will work fine and is easy to clean. I don't use staples, glass or bead and cove myself so I'm just reporting what others say except for cleaning glue runs which I learned the hard way! Ill see how i get on when i set all the forms up and ill test a few strips to see whats the best approach to strip it. Yesterday i was out on my own and i cut and shaped the rest of my forms apart from the transom and stem form. Im abit held back now because i need the part i need to fix my cicular saw comes so i can make my stem up but cant cut the ash into strips untill the part arrives.
Ive been searching online for some 6oz cloth and theyre all coming out at about ?5-6 a sq mtr but ive came across a site that sells the cloth at 135g per sq m for ?3 or 200g per sq mtr for ?3.35.
Can't recall if this came up before in this thread but the strips can be applied from the gunnels down or from the keel up. Heres my strong back set up, all i need to do now is attach some 4x2 i have then im ready to put the forms up. Once your 4x2 is up the only important thing is getting your forms level - you can tweak their position on the 4x2 a bit so you can easily lose this. Put the wedge across after it, then the second block to get teh angle you need for the wedge.
Prep your work piece, put it on the 4x2 between the blocks, then tap in the wedge to squeeze it.
My cedar is getting collected tomorrow and a friend is driving it 200miles down to me so cant wait to get cutting the strips in the next few days, ive still to make up table saw and rotuer table with my router and cicular saw so ill be busy teh next few days doing this. After awhile going through the booklet that came with the plans, i was a bit disapointed because i was expecting alot more info for newbies like myself but i should get through this build with help on here.
The plans i have here are for a 10ft lawton tender but im going to stretch mine to a 12 because im looking a bigger boat than 10ft. I have also been thinking of making a different strong back, more like the one in gill gillpatricks book. Does anyone think i may run into any problems with me stretching teh boat an extra 2 ft, the guy who sold me the plans said ill be ok but id thought id ask here as well. As for the keel, does it look like they have used just one and glued the cedar strip to it. I hope i listen to you because sometimes i can run on with myself and forget to measure twice and end up making a balls up,lol. The two will strengthen the bottom, and cover any rough edges in the cutting of the strips. The two will strengthen the bottom, and cover any rough edges in the cutting of the strips. One thing i need to ask here, in the booketlet i got with the plans, it says that for the transom i need to get some cherry or butternut and glue it to some ply to make up the transom.
I also went and got a 1mm thick cicular saw blade so when i cut my strips, i get as many as possible out of my cedar. If the wood for your stem is a different thickness, then obviously you have to account for that yourself. If you hang onto that dust, you can use it to fill any cracks or holes by adding it to some epoxy resin mix.
The original Lawton drawing would probably be for lapstrake construction with a regular keel - typically oak - and a keelson on the top to which the first plank - the garplank or garstrake - is nailed.
Ply is fine for a transom and a much better structural material in this location than solid wood.
Adding a half-form to either side of the stem form seems odd unless the stem continues past the first form; I would have thought it easier to attach the stem form to the front of a full width form.


The thickness of the strips should be uniform or you will have an almighty amount of sanding later. I believe clean and relatively dust-free cedar shavings are salable - they?re used in dog beds - but I?m not sure about dust. Mount an electric sander over a flat bench and pass the timber under it at 6mm, then turn it over and cut the other side at 5mm.
The combination of elegant lines and lightweight wood-stripper construction, she is the rower’s dream.
She responds instantly to a light pull in the oars and gets up to hull speed with a few strokes.
The Cosine 10 footer is designed as a yacht tender or for wherever an easily carried and stored boat is needed. She can be rowed for either of two oar locks stations, though the forward position may be tight for a large person. The combination of elegant lines and light-weight wood-stripper construction, she is the rower’s dream. John built and tested this boat on lakes, rivers, and the harbors around Puget Sound, near Seattle, Washington.
You really only need one accurate corner on a mold edge, which should be on the station mark, and generally faces away from midships so the stringers can rest on the accurate edge. For a building mold that will be used many times like the pros it is done for durability, to give the stringers a better land, but extra material is then provided for beveling. You can prevent damage to the cove by using a short length of beaded edge to press the strips into place. I hope i remember to put the thickest part outside becauuse it wil be a pain to sand off if it ends up inside. I hope its the proper part because if its not, ill have to order another art that it might be ad thats going to set me back even longer. I wetted some of it out and even thou it looks and holds well, it doesnt wet out like the normal stuff i need to use. There are other methods including starting or finishing with a (Rugby) football-shaped bottom panel stripped fore-and-aft with the rest of the boat stripped stem to stem between the bottom panel and the gunnels; the image below shows a partially built canoe with ribs and it illustrates the football shaped bottom panel although in this case it is plywood. When i 1st marked out my transom and stem form, i made them to the size of the plans but i forgot im making the boat an extra 2 ft longer but i realised this after i drew my lines onto the mdf.
Mines is out about 2mm in places but ive tried most things and i cant seem to get it all perfect.
Im going to set both ends and then run 2 lines from both them and bring all the rest inline with each one. Here below i cut it in 2 and sanded and roughed up with jigsaw so when i join it with epoxy, it gets a good bond.
I have emailed the guy who sold me the plans and he says this is fine, just as long as i keep all the extra spacing the same distance.
The reason why im thinking this is because ill also be building a strip canoe out of gillpatricks book and i dont see the sence in building 2 strong backs but i'd want to build the bigger of the 2 so i can use it on both. In my plans it says about an inner and outer keel but i dont really understand the reason behind this.
I think im just going to finish the boat where teh bottom of the hull all meets in cedar then i stick a keel to the bottom of the hull with epoxy. I think perhaps they suggest gluing a hardwood to the ply to get a decent edge - the face of the ply will be fine, but you cannot get the edges really smooth as all the lamination's will show. When i was cutting my last cuts the timber i was cutting was 12-16mm in places , i was able to rip it through and get my cut that i was cutting but i was left with a strip on the other end that is 6mm in most places but when i measured the length of the extra strip, it was 5-7mm in places. As for useing this saw dust, i have 3 cardboard box's full, enough to do me for years ,lol. In the picture it looks like there is no internal keel just a contrast strip installed flush. Strip width should be matched on opposite sides of the boat but can change from the design and from layer to layer. She is designed to be strip-planked by an amateur, wood worker working in a small area, without expensive tools. It is strong and well-suited for racing, yet practical for fishing and ideal for leisurely excursions on quiet lakes. John built this first prototype, it rowwed, funtion perfectly and looked so beautifully, he decided to keep this design.
Don't forget to put any strips that are too thick on so that you can plane off the outside face, or better still - if you can - run them through a thickness planer before you start.


Ill have a word with the guy tomorrow and see if he'll sell me me it in a 4x2 length for half the price because thats all i need. If the plans do not specify the pattern, it pays to spend some time experimenting to see which works out best, I would also suggest you search the net for stripper boats to get more information. I had to add another 3.4inch onto my stem form so i can get that extra spacing between that form and the next. I'm asking because I have several sheets of it that I have no use for, and if it works for station forms then it can have a purpose in life in my next boat!
Its because the strong back has a wee bump here and there but nothing to major.In my opinion, I think 2mm isnt going to effect the boat that much but id like to hear your thoughts on this. I only had one clamp for teh job and while i was testing it out without the epoxy it just didnt look like it was closing up. I was checking everyday with the tracking number online just to see where they where,lol, my misses kept telling me to relax and stop going on about them but as we all know, thats impossible, esp as this is my 1st strip build and cant wait to get going.
This might sound silly but i dont really understand what he is saying here below on the plans.
You have to take off the half inch from each of the two half forms, to allow for the one inch thickness of the stem.
Just a wee question about the saw dust, is there any real need for the stuff apart from using for mixing with epoxy. An external keel helps with tracking and somewhat reduces scratches hauling the boat over a beach. Similarly, I often use ply for sheer planks, topped off with a rabbeted inwale or outwale to hide the edge. Narrower strips are easier to twist so use them for the strips that come around the lower turn of the bilge and meet the stem where it begins to climb up from the waterline.
I gave a guy i met on here a piece so he could also try out himself because i was telling him good of a price it was going for ,and he's came back and said the same about it not wetting out great so ill have to put it aside and prob use it on another job ill do in the future. These sheets come in 8x4 and they cut in half for anyone who needs a 4x4 size but will they cut it even smaller, i dont know thou ill find out tomorrow when i ask.
Do you think i could get away with using the 4.8oz on the outside as well, if i remember correctly, i seen a comment on a thread i made before on here where a guy was saying he uses 4oz cloth on the outside of his boats and he hasnt noticed any difference. I moved the line but then it overlapped my transom thou after some thought, i just decided to cut out the transom form first because TBH, it doesnt really matter if i notched the stem form at that line. Im thinking of just bring the strips right around so they meet together like on cedar strip canoes. While i was striping my cedar i ended up with alot of cedar dust and i have baged it because im sure theres someone out there who might need this stuff. I have emailed the seller of the plans but he stoped replying to my emails as soon as my plans arrived. The reason im asking is i might just throw it out because if theres no need for it then then why keep it lying about. Build or learn to build Wood Strip canoes, kayaks, woodstrip sea kayaks, row boats, rowboats, cedarstrip, Cedar Strip.
Add a drop down centerboard, a retractable rudder and two different sail configurations and you have a boat for all kinds of fun.
The price of the stuff was ?22 for 22 meters so it aint really that much im going to a lose. Just as well i noticed this because i was ready to redraw them again but thankfully i got away with making this mistake. I was down in town earlier and all i could find was clamps for 15euro,im in 2 minds to buy one or not and im wondering is there anything i can do instead.
Of course the number of strip layers is different if the width is changed: don?t laugh - I learned that by experience!
The Cosine Wherry will give years of exercise, pleasure, and the greatest satisfaction to build and row. If it had of been any other form then id have been screwed and would have had to redraw them. I also learned to plan ahead; sanding the outside is far easier than the inside so if there's a choice which to make smoothest .
Kits for DIY folk, do it yourself, handmade, homemade, hand made, custom built, White Salmon, Washington, Hood River, Oregon, WA, The Columbia River Gorge, boats, boating, rowing, paddling, paddles, oars, accessories.



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