Custom jon boat designs tips,pontoon boats electric for sale,wood boat for sale craigslist 2014,pontoon boat rentals murphy nc 28906 - Tips For You

Published 04.12.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Free Fishing Boat Plans

You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Also known as "Styled-to-Fit" covers, Styled-to-Fit boat covers are our best selling, most popular category of covers and for good reason. Location: United States I am interested in taking a 14' jon and adding a 2' tunnel turning this flat bottom into an aluminum cat? Location: United States I would like to turn a 14x4 jon to a 14x6 by adding a 2' tunnel through the bottom of the boat.
Location: Galveston, Texas cat or vented tunnel What will you be using the boat for? Location: United States I was thinking that a scooter cat would be more buoyant than a flat bottom due to its catamaran style and the fact that we made it wider from 4' wide to 6' wide.
Location: Louisiana Good thread I have thought of a tunnel boat as well but only for speed.
Location: United States is there a big difference between marine grade aluminum and regular aluminum sheets.
Originally Posted by carpe_diem956 is there a big difference between marine grade aluminum and regular aluminum sheets. I know that 5052 bends a lot easier then say 5086 but I believe 5086 actually welds better then 5052 but it doesn't maybe bend as easily as 5052.
Originally Posted by carpe_diem956 I was thinking that a scooter cat would be more buoyant than a flat bottom due to its catamaran style and the fact that we made it wider from 4' wide to 6' wide.
Location: United States possibilities I am really fascinated and extremely interested in these aluminum boats. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. My next step was to give myself enough room in the garage to put the whole boat in there and still be able to shut the door with the motor mounted = swing away tongue. The all-welded .100 5052 marine-aluminum alloy hull is anchored and unitized by a bow-to-stern longitudinal stringer system that is welded to the keel, hull bottom and sides, and to the box-beam, all aluminum, corner-braced transom-resulting in one of the strongest, most rigid jon boats on the market. Standard benefits include our Versatrack® accessory mounting channel in gunnel, 1 movable fishing seat, fore and aft pedestal base locations, utility cleats, a built-in fuel tank, and a 5-year hull warranty. You'll have al the room you need on the huge raised front deck and the ample back deck-both feature a pedestal seat base for the moving fishing seat.
With everything you need for fishing, bowhunting, waterfowling, and more, the Grizzly 1860 MVX Side Console is a stable, rock-solid boat for all your on-the-water adventures. I'm not sure what is meant by a vented tunnel but the idea was to run the tunnel from the engine all the way to the bow.
I was told that a lot of tunnel boats are square shaped when a round tunnel is better for less cavitation but I'm only wanting to go fast. This guy basically takes a full sheet brakes the sides and cuts what is the bottom plate of the boat and pulls the sides in to where he wants them.


It's been over a year now and I still haven't built mine yet but I must say I have learned a ton from reading online and I'm glad i have because i would have already made some real costly mistake if I had jumped into it.
I needed to replace the 3.5 ft bunks with 7 foot bunks to take the weight off of the front roller.
I plan to cover all this with plywood and carpet, but for now, heres what I've got.I propped the control box up there to see about where its going to go. It's a forum just for jon boats and modifications done to them (with a little fishing thrown in).
All of mine was simply given a very generous coating of Thompsons Water seal prior to carpeting but I'm sure epoxy would work great. Yes, used them last week while night fishing and it was just the right amount of light to see what I needed to without getting swarmed by the skeeters. There's also plenty of storage between the riding seats and in the forward deck, along with a rotomolded, aerated livewell in front of the console.
I didn't want to have to call the neighbors everytime I had to lift this 355 lb boat, so I ran steel cables up through the ceiling into the attic. Then within a couple weeks, I bought the 1981 40 HP Merc from him and built a stand to put it on.
After I've cut my plywood to fit, I'm going to pull the ply and frame out, epoxy all wood surfaces, carpet, and put it back in.
Also, when I lifted it, I noticed the front cables were holding much more weight than the back.
I had to adjust my people capacity to counter the extra weight I added with new decks in my boat. I spend alot of time over there lots of guys who have put together nice rigs and that I have learned alot from.
In most of the modern methods of pressure treating wood, copper is added, and copper and aluminum are dissimilar metals.
Here's the link to mine that I have pretty much completed (just got the cupholders put in so she's ready to roll ). I've studied a lot of pictures and the way some lay there boat out and this is mainly the mudboat guys but they have some dam good ideas. I wanted to be able to work on the motor without having to pull out the whole boat everytime to work on it. I'm guessing this will prolong the life of the wood by about 3-4 years so maybe it'll last 7-10 years before I have to rip it all out and do it again.
I'm sure you could do some searching on the web to approximate the weight of your lumber (dry). I hauled her around in the bed of a '61 Chevy and hit ponds no one else even knew existed back in the piney woods. So this way I can do the carb rebuild, lower unit fluid flush, and whatever else needs to be done without having to move the boat everytime.


If it's not too late you might consider going with a 24v system since your carrying that extra battery anyway.
You can see how I relocated both of my batteries and even the fuel tank to the front of the boat. The low cost flat bottom boat you just purchased is as buoyant as you can get, anything you do to it will make less so. Obviously they creating these boats out of composite or fiberglass but is there a business in creating these small boats out of aluminum. So each rafter would have even less weight on it than me (6'4" 235 lbs) standing up there.
I've got a frayed control cable so I've got to get that replaced before I can mount the control-box.
The guesstimate would also help you figure out what you've possibly done to the center of mass. Galvanization is the coating of iron and steel with zinc, making a corrosion resistant finish.
I'm extremely happy with mine and hope you get the same satisfaction of building it yourself as I have! The motor shouldn't be part of the equation for maintaining the center of mass assuming the boat was designed for that size motor (I realize the motor is not weightless! I pulled the trailer out, replaced the bunks, wires, and lights, and wheeled it back in when I was done. We are just talking about trying to keep the boats designed center of mass relatively close to its original). Its also rated for a 50HP motor so I think the 40HP Merc I've got will push it along nicely. Your only option for fasteners would be stainless steel, and aluminum, in the case of rivets. With all the storage I've got planned, it would be rather easy to move a couple batteries if need be. A friend of mine carries his spare 5 gallons of gas in front of the console because he has learned it balances his boat.Have fun! Thats another reason for the time line; I can get it in the water and see how she runs before I start on all the accessories and TM wiring.



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