Design a fiberglass boat yourself,free boat wiring diagrams quiz,boat shops in virginia beach - Tips For You

Published 18.01.2016 | Author : admin | Category : Free Fishing Boat Plans

Location: Milwaukee, WI You need to start by buying plans with construction details and scantlings. 1708 Bi-axle over Balsa » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post re establish boot and shear stripe!!!?? When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: ohio Fuel Tank Hello everybody, its me again the question guy.
Location: South Carolina Steel tanks Ahmed, not to be too nit picky but it's cross-linked polyethylene, There are thousands installed in boats in the US. Location: north Markham Plastic tanks today are as good or better than aluminum just make sure you leave room for expansion. Oddly enough tank manufacturers have been switching over from making aluminum tanks to making plastic. If you put the tank under the floor make sure you have an inspection plate so you can see all of the tank fittings and check for leaks. Location: Washington I apologize for any offense, but I actually meant what I said. As for not glassing in decks, I know that this is done routinely in the industry, and I find it disturbing for several reasons. Sorry to be such a jerk about this but I've spent many years having to tell people they can't use Coast Guard Approved and the message just doesn't seem to sink in. Originally Posted by jimslade I deal with automotive restoration and in the 30 years I have been doing it, I have never seen a catastrophic failure in a metal tank, not the same for plastic. Plastic are polymer, spun from hydrocarbon process, normally they are made from Naptha, Naptha are also the base for Platformate which is the base product for petrol.. Contrary to what the press and the oil companies would have you believe, ethanol has been an additive in gas since the 70's.
Location: Colorado To be honest I haven't looked under the fiberglass yet I have been concentrating on preping the floor and tearing out the rotten wood in the transom not there there is much of a transom. Location: Colorado I e-mailed Malibu to see if I could get some info about how the stringers were originally built. Location: Colorado Please try to forget what i said about how the stringers were constructed it's pretty plain to see now. Location: maine just y in the word stringer in the search button here,,and you'll finds hundreds of posts on materials and procedures,,,its been dealt with SOOOO many times,,that alot dont want to type it all again. Location: South Africa Fiberglass help needed Whilst hand laminating with CSM, some bubble like dry spots appear that refuses to be wetted or lay down - what can the cause of this be? Location: South Africa Manie, the surface is clean - the plug was gelcoated this afternoon and I let the gelcoat cured past the finger pull scream test, about 3 hours total.
Location: Australia Once the resin has set the only way is to grind out or fill with a syringe that I know of. Location: toronto did you wear gloves while you were cutting the fiberglass, i see this problem with guys waxing moulds and not properly washing the wax off there hands and you end up with areas that the resin wont wet out. Location: South Africa No gloves were used, but hands were clean at the time. Will start filling those that did not bubbled out with a syringe and the bad ones that popped out be we grind out carefully and patched before the next layer goes on.
The mat at places refused to be wet out and some of the bigger spots (two the size of my hands) did wet out and bond as the steel roller went over and then just lifted off again - no matter how much you roll it down. Decided to use woven roving for the next layer as it wet out easier to get things back on an even keel before putting the next CSM down.
Location: South Africa Decided what the hell and let the apprentice and helper loose with small grinders fitted with sanding discs.
Location: Monroe WA If these spots refused to saturate with resin and returned immediately after rolling, then it's an issue with the mat.
It's best to not apply roving directly over any cured laminate, the bond will not be as good as when mat is used as the first layer.

Location: South Africa ondarvr, it must have been the binder in the mat as no contamination was cause on my side, and the fact that most of the serious damage was on the one strip over the midship area and to a lesser amount elsewhere.
All layups will go on singular up to the CoreMat, but the last two CSM's will go on together the prevent heat buildup close to the gelcoat and to prevent warping of the mould.
Location: Monroe WA I must not have paid attention the making a mold part, I was thinking you were making a part. For making molds one layer at a time the resin needs to be of the correct type, skin resins are promoted so they cure better in a thin laminate resulting in less post cure.
Location: Australia Looking at the photos it does look like contamination problem, I am guessing not a binder issue but some other contamination that could have happened during the mat manufacturing. As ondarvr mentioned you most frequently see this happen as a result of contamination with gelled resin.
Attaching foam to a mould » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Fiberglass Cloth or Fiberglass Mat? Location: maine With that much abuse expected, plywood is probably the best choice, though it's hard to tell from here whether the balsa-cored deck failed because it was balsa rather than plywood, or, as is most common, from water leaking into fastener holes. Shocks to balsa could delaminate the core from the skin in any case, so the question is what thickness of plywood to use. However thick the balsa core was, that's going to be about what thickness the plywood should be, so long as the old deck failed due to reasons other than balsa thickness being too thin. I have decided to repair my aluminum tank (pinholes that are not leaking yet) with a layer of cloth and epoxy resin.
Do a system pressure test of the tank and the fuel lines at 3 psi before you screw the floor down. I just finished restoring a 60 year old truck and I used the original metal tank, still good. In the mid 80's the Coast Guard, SAE, NFPA, SAE and ABYC, with assistance from NMMA, got together and had the formulation for fuel hose changed, specifically to resist alcohol blends because they were causing premature failure of hoses.
But with the wood the way it was the wrong person on the swim deck could have made for a bad day. I don't think that they started to use there fibecs system until 1993 but hopefully they will be helpful. The two pieces of wood for the center stringers were joined together were the engine was mounted duh. Now that it is set, can it be repaired by injecting resin into the void between the gelcoat and the CSM with a syringe to fill it solid before laying the next layer of mat? Then a barrier coat of clean laminating resin applied and waited until it kicked, followed by the first CSM coat giving the problems now. It may be the binder was applied incorrectly (uneven), or from handling it you contaminated the surface with catalyzed resin that gelled creating stiff spots that spring back. I laid down a cloth instead of wr and all went well and the plug is now evenly covered with a rather fair and smooth surface to build upon.
Whats wrong with a V tank bottom, it is structurally stronger than a flat bottom.Check out marine surveyers web sites and you will find the pros and cons of both also how to properly set up a new tank.
For a tank of 50 gallons size I believe it is expected to have the oil in the tank all the time. However at a glance the stringers don't apper to be bad at all, the wood only has a few places where it is discolored. I think I inhaled a little to much of the old glass it's hard to aviod even if you do use a mask.So here are some pics you can see the rotten (black) wood through the fiberglass some of the wood looks ok however I'm willing to bet that its wet. If you do plan to use more layers of glass be sure to catalyze the resin at the lower end of the recommended range so you have enough time and the layup doesn't get too hot. This will increase the resident time of petrol in that tank.This in effect will caused the permeating of hydrocarbon fume through the tank. Now that the floor is up I am wondering if the stringers should be redone while I am in there. Most of these spots are most likely from the holes that were made by the screws used by the previsious owner to attach the ???

I used seacast to repair a transom on another boat that I had and I thought that it was good product and good way to make a transom repair. I’m New to the form and to fiberglass work- I’m working on a project and would appreciate your advice! 2-the old tank was a (v-bottom?not square) belly tank, I want to glass in a plywood floor for the new tank, the only ready made aluminum tanks that I can find(40-55 gallon) to fit in the hole have the belly tank configuration. Glassed in floors are for structurall integrity.The catch 22 in tank installation is do you install water tight or allow ventilation. There a lot of different in petrol character depending on the base product used for this blend ,if the traditional market are straight run platformate than normally the plastic tanks are able to resist the restructuring of the polymer molycule by platformate, if catalytic crack gasoline (CCG- from a more advance cracking process) are used, then the same tank might not be able to survive the restructuring of the polymer molycule- mean it will disintergrate or melt or become brittle.
I prefer water tight due to the chance of failure, the leak will be confined to the tank enclosure than have it leak into the bilge where you will have catastrophic events occurring.
With all this uncertainty of fuel type are thrown in alcohol as part of the blend, be it Methanol or Ethanol again the structure of the hydrocarbon molycule change and this will again make the character change. The glass on the side of the boat was not roughed up and did not bond, which did make it easier to remove the floor. Sometimes reworking the surface eliminates the pattern for good, but it may continue to return. Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether - MTBE are banned in some state in USA but still in used in some other country, Tri Chloro Ethane TCE or PCE is needed in the naptha craking process and they are real poison to plastic. The thought crossed my mind to repair only this section but I'm not sure how that would affect the rest of the structure. If wood had not been used in the first place none of us wood have to go through this process in the first place. So, first the Califormia Air Resources Board banned it (they were the first to require it in gasoline so they were just reversing their decision) and the EPA started phasing out it's use. Well that's not true if people took better care of there boats we wouldn’t be doing this. There was one episode where over forty boats in one storage facility lost the contents of their tanks over the winter.
At any rate there are new products out that are far lighter, stronger and more water proof then wood. And there was a huge recall due to gaskets that detiorated due to the additives such as alcohol and MTBE. They were all aluminum tanks and the fuel distributor had delivered Gasohol (10% ethanol blend) instead of straight gasoline. You can't even compare a 60 year old truck tank to a 20 year old truck tank, they are from different eras with different priorities, quality versus profit.Work in a boatyard for two years and you'll see all kinds of problems with metal tanks. For a plastic tank, make sure that permeating gas collected are cleared of before introducing any sources of ignition like switch on the light or any confine space entry.It can be fatal.
The majority of the time there will be no provision or thought whatsoever by the manufacturer to make it easy to fix or access the tank, even if it's just as easy to do it right as to do it wrong.
1.) If you can do most of the cutting and prep work outside if you can don't make a huge mess of your garage.
You said that the wood is just used as filler but it looks like there was only one layer of roven woving used to wrap the stringers is that enough if the wood is compromised? 2.) Go to home Depot and buy a paint (tyvek) suit, a good respirator, and some ear plugs or a full face mask.
3.) Trips to a swimming pool with a hot tub will do wonders after a full day of dust exposure.

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