Design a jon boat ideas,lake boat rentals san diego,pontoon boats for sale in east tennessee 2014 - Plans Download

Published 08.02.2016 | Author : admin | Category : Diy Sailboat Plans

Location: New Zealand Have a look at these hulls, better than a flat bottom less hp to drive and greater stability!
Lemme see if I can get an image or two uploaded here just to keep the thread up to date eh? Of course Now she weighs so much that the lil 25 hp Mariner just wouldn't quite plane her with anything but me aboard - so much as a stiff headwind would knock me off plane and one passenger turned her into a slug displacement 6 knot vessel that drank fuel like it was going outta style. For anyone contemplating building thier own alloy boat from a kit - there are a series of two Aussie boating magazine articles, where the female editor welded up her own 4.75 meter (16 ft) boat from one of CDM's Plasma cut kits. You can get back issues of the two magazines containing the articles &photo's on the CDM plate boat project below. You'd need the back issues numbers 61 from Jan 2001 & 62 from Feb 2001 available online thru the backissues order link off the mainpage link above to read up and get an idea of how hard or easy such a project can be. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Oh yes Plans I think the pics that went missing from my first post may have been the plans for this 16ft alloy V bottom johnboat. And one last one showing the broad outline of how the pieces go together once released from their parent sheet bye cutting the tabs that hold it in place.. You get a step bye step guide booklet that tells you what to do and in what order, as well as another book that tells you all about the welding process and what your aiming to achieve in terms of a decent weld. Also you get all the info you need on electrolysis protection painting wiring etc etc the hull. If you want free hull lines for this kind of powerboat contact me and I will send you a 3D dxf files.
I probably should have added another post to this thread, about the Australian Standards that apply to powering such a vessel.
Knowing that 60 Hp is the max you can get on a 16 ft alloy boat, you have to start to wonder how a manufacturer can get away then with putting 200 horses on the back of a similar vessel? The above standard AS 1799 is not a commercial vessel standard and does not apply to survey vessels. Hmmm thats got me thinking then I wonder how many horsepower I can get away with on one a these? Then again It mightn't be a bad idea if i conduct a few stability tests before I get too carried away! Sorry Joe 4 months later I spotted your question when I was reading back thru an old thread looking for something else. All up with the 50 HP outboard it weighs a LOT more than you might think - like a full 1 tonne (1000 kilos, or ~2250 pounds). If you run that vessel lightship (minimal gear) then yes a 25 HP is ample and when fiorst buolt I ran her for a year or more with 25 ponies -including some relaticely long offshore islands runs of up to 38 Nm in one leg - 24 in another and about 40 in yet another. The rason for the 50 is the weight the vessel gained with the timber console gear locker thwart seat, flotation foam additional 5 gal tank, 3 batterys electroc troller and all the fly gear I cart while on charter.
All that gear was required to achieve a comemrcial passenger survey cert from Govt transport authorities (along with epirbs and fkares radio sat phone charts etc etc etc etc.. I do agree that lightship with 50 ponies she would be a real handfull especially in it's current tiller steer configuration. Then again the 16 ft Punt I posted painted white has 200 ponies on basically the same hullform.(go figure).
I did hear the engione was recovered and that passengers survived the crocks due to the speed bouncing them across the water up the bank some meters beyond the waters edge (and crock territory).
Location: Hamburg The Jon Jet Sorry to be off topic here but I couldn't resist posting this picture. This boat was 'developed' in response to the need to have a fast boat that wouldn't foul on the just under the surface tree stumps on this lake in E texas. I brought the front deck back to the next rib and bolted a bulkhead made of aluminum in to support it. On your holes --providing you can get to your holes-go to your local boat repair shop and get solid rivets and drill out your hole to the correct size and take a ballpeen hammer and peen the stem down. Not one a my better days, I think the ball bra musta got a twist in it ans strangled the supply of blood to my brains last night!
Location: Texas Design idea update Not much of a budget, I'm on VA disability.
Hull idea is to stretch the beam to ~7' 6", to maintain trailerability, stretch the length of the main hull to the original hull and deck outline, with the wheel-arms extending aft, from about where they end, now, but longer, to accommodate a larger wheel, or wheels.
My idea is to split the wheel into halves, then use electric motors to drive them separately.
For the main hull (transom to bow), I was thinking a profile approximating the Selway 20' Sternwheel 'mould' design, using a simple, shallow 'v' jon-boat plan.
For a trailer, I expect to get a 'tandem' axle low-boy style trailer, that uses torsion springs and trailing-arms.


At the back of the wheelhouse, on both sides, at foredeck level, will be doors with raised sills, to clear the combing,, like a tugboat has, for more effective freeboard, to place the wheel and controls as far forward as possible, and to allow passage to and from the deck and cabin, without interfering with the operator, while underway. Once she's built, and afloat, I can use the battery-bank as leveling ballast, then run wiring and finish filling spaces with foam.
Mostly, the boat will be anchored and my escape-hatch, from a crowded house, and a fishing pier. Location: Milwaukee, WI If you don't have much of a budget, a sternwheeler is a bad choice. I'm putting a larger, more efficient hull under what was a 2-bicycle powered, paddlewheel boat. Location: Milwaukee, WI Hemp will soak a huge amount of epoxy resin for very little strength. Originally Posted by gonzo Hemp will soak a huge amount of epoxy resin for very little strength.
Location: Texas Avoiding the fiberglass is more expensive than fiberglass, but epoxy and which ever fabric is cheaper than a 2nd, handmade hull.
Paint, other than the final surface treatment, hasn't been one of my real options, for the hull.
Location: Milwaukee, WI I think you need to check prices of used boats and compare them to a new build.
Originally Posted by gonzo I think you need to check prices of used boats and compare them to a new build.
I looked at building a floating dock, with a cabin on it, but I'd need all sorts of ecological impact studies, engineering for waste disposal and access for emergency personnel. I am asking for help with my hull design, and simulation if possible, to be relatively sure she'll behave.
If there's a 3rd, it generally boils down to using the body off of a travel-trailer, rather than building the cabin I want. I haven't made extravagant proclamations for luxury, no head, no galley, no air-conditioning, no chandeliers, no monster stereo, no water-slide, not even a refrigerator.
Do you really think I couldn't fit that stuff into ONE 16' jon-boat and get in and out of here with 2 adults and a child? Location: Eustis, FL I don't want to insult you or burst your bubble, but you have a lot of research to do, before even thinking about this project. There's no 50's era Chris Craft with cotton duck deck and lead paint treatments that have survived, unless parked in a hermetically sealed warehouse since 1961. The idea of a stern or side wheeler is cute, but if you're interested in cheap and efficient, toss this idea out the window quickly.
As to self designing this puppy, you're no where close to this level of understanding, even if it is a small boat. Your best advised to simply get a set of stock plans and put the lipstick and mascara on it as you like, leaving the structure, hull form and build details intact. Stock plans for a boat of this general size and arrangement, count in the many hundreds and don't cost much, some less than a hundred bucks, which is cheap. Location: Texas Jon-Boat Hull Design It's not about what anyone wants, but me.
The Chris Craft canvas and paint method works, and, yes I can find where some has even lasted since the '50s, or I wouldn't have brought it up.
Despite the ragging, I've been rather thorough in detailing, point-by-point, how to do the very things I'm being told I can't do, how and why they should work, even finding other alternatives to the objections. The main problem to overcome is the lack of transition to the transom, that is shown in the profile of the Selway.
The length to beam ratio is only slightly above the recommended minimum of 2:1, but this is not a high-speed design, it's a shallow-water, muddy-bank design.
The wheel arms will be structurally integral and extend behind the transom, just as sponsons do, on many commercial jon-boats.
Location: Eustis, FL You're right I haven't a clue about these things, you have fun with it .
Solar Electric Boat Design » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Requesting start-up information. Location: Western Ma (Another) Newbie Jon Boat Design I was wondering if someone could help and tell me if this design is reasonable, make suggestions for possible improvements, and maybe some tips or hints in the building process. I decided a few weeks ago that I wanted to build a Jon Boat as a small project for the summer (or at least for a weekend or two). It will be mainly used for fishing on small lakes (and large ponds) with relatively calm water (the occasional speed boat with a water skier will pass by).
Guest625101138 Previous Member   Apart from the fact that you cannot add up you have it just about right for what you want to do. The hull will tend to twist unless you have a solid gunwale or keel to take any torsional load between the bow and transom.


The only other suggestion is to take a look at the second hand market as you might get something at a giveaway price. Location: Western Ma Alright, I have slightly modified my design to make it a bit easier to build, but I do have a couple quick questions.
I'm not entirely sure where to buy marine grade plywood around the Western Mass area, (real western mass -- Pittsfield to be exact -- not just somewhere west of Boston), but I’ll find it. I would prefer to keep it a little on the lighter side, but if I can add a significant amount of extra strength with a little extra weight, then I can deal. That's gonna make my little wooden Jon boat about a $430 dollar job with the paint screws glue and some etcetera! Rumour has it she was written off douing 70MPH around a bend in Australia's northern territories East Alligator river.
I could, like countless others, think how easy it should be, and start on another one of those countless incomplete nightmares you mentioned. Sure, it was overzealous to think of using the end-pieces of an antique piano would make a cool console, within the wheelhouse. Now, maybe we have a completely different idea of what camping is, but, if I recall correctly, I said generally 2 adults and one child, a DC genset, a porta-potty, a bit of gear, and a cooler, for any extended trip. I've haven't fully read this whole thread, but the quick overview I have, I see repeated misunderstandings, misnomers, etc. TiteBond III is close, but not a structural adhesive and will not tolerate being submersed for very long, plus it costs more than epoxy per ounce. There's a reason 99.8% of powerboats kissed this contrivance goodbye, once a prop was invented. Designing an easy to build, efficient, low cost build and inexpensive operation boat, requires some real skills, especially as a home built. You can have a boat that looks like what you want, has some predictable level of efficiency, reasonable operation costs and ownership, while having the styling you desire. Avoid free plans or those that seem like a real good deal, as you'll get what you pay for generally. After It is pieced together, I will fiberglass all the joinds inside and out, and then fiberglass the outside of the boat with two layres of fiberglass. But when I think back on all the money I've spent on boats, and this might be my last boat, the shock lessend quite a bit. Make a prioritized list of all the various things you absolutely need to have on this boat, in terms of costs, build type, material choices, physical dimensions and performance attributes. Then I will add some runners (1X2s) to the bottom to take the abuse of the rocks when I drop it in the water (or the tree stumps I hit while fishing) I will also mount a Gunwal in the same fassion (the reason I will fiberglass before is so I can replace them if I need to) Then I will seal up the interior with several coats of poly, and coat the bottom with epoxy.
The boxed seats should provide a bunch of torsional rigidity by dividing the boat into smaller open areas. It allows you to check things, doesn't trap moisture between the foam and the surrounding wood and lets you air things out. A word of advice --when you put in wiring for all your electronics be sure to have them on a circuit that you can shut off quickly plus have them fused. I haven't checked, but I'm fairly certain that would be prohibitively expensive, given the amount of pipe I think it would take (not to mention ugly). Not what you'd like, but what you have to have for the boat to work, the essential minimums so to speak. Your displacement needs will necessitate the transom being raised on the bottom to about 13" from the shear.
If you look, you'll see that the Showboat cabin walls are not raised above the hull and over combing, but I've included that, to reduce the potential ingress of water. This means bye bye the stern wheel, in favor of a good used outboard and learn to live with your aversion to 'glass work, as this will be the cheap way to get her done. There will be two boxed bench seats for storage and there will be a small compartment at the front of the boat for storage as well. You could build in a traditional style (plank over frame), but the boat will have many more parts, will be much heavier, which you pay for in the build and underway and it'll leak. Yeah, you'll be 'glass work free, but you quickly see why these methods aren't used any more, compared to taped seam (and other types) builds. With any luck, the list making will force some reality into the project, especially once you start to calculate materials costs and you can move past, some of the preconceived notions you have about certain things, that plainly aren't based in the same reality most others have of these types of projects.
Original draft was about 6 inches.Even accounting for added wood and several batteries, I think I'll be able to match that. Nice thing about a fairly large, almost flat hull is that it distributes weight, not merely displacing water.



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