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Published 12.07.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Plywood Jon Boat Plans

Location: las vegas Tips For Deck layup I would like to hear opinions on the best method to go about relaminating this deck.
Here is a picture of the deck that needs to be laid up and a picture of what it needs to look like. Location: las vegas Should the layup be done from the inside or the out side? So If I am doing the lay up from the outside, working with the first layer against the mold mounted on the uderside of the deck and working outward, What laminate schedule should be used? Should I start with mat and alternate cloth and mat, finnishing with two layers of mat on the very outer layers?
Originally Posted by tunnels Make the unside panel out of fibre glass and pre install a core to it instead of using plexiglass to make a former . Can I use the epoxy to bond the fiberglass underside and then use poly on the outer layers? In these Eliminator tunnels, There are not usually any core material in the decks., My original plan was to put a former from under side and layup the hole , then flip the hull over ,and lay up a layer or two over the under side of the deck.
Also while on the subject, does any one have any tips for shaping the leftside to match the right? Sorry for the condition on my part, but sometimes I just need someone draw me a picture before it clicks in my head. In the middle where the hile is you will have close to 14mm of core the rest is just 9 so when its finished you should be able to stand on and only get a little flexing up and down . If I put the foam all the way out to the edge of the deck, covering it completely, do i bond it with epoxy, then shape? Glass wont stick to any surface thats not sanded if its in anyway shiney it will come off later for sure . Its foam !!its easy to sand use the H 80 grade divinecell or any of the other foams that are harder .
You going to need to Vac it all to get good bonding and make sure its all stuck every where .
Location: australia If it were me, i would grind the top and bottom edges around the cutout section you need to replace for bonding later - go right to the edges of the raised section for ease of fairing.
Then remove the temporary backing plate you installed and proceed with bonding the foam core to the inside (youll have to get creative on how to hold it up there). Location: las vegas Attie, I think You are absolutly righ, about keeping it sinple. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Location: Owen Sound Ont Canada Restoration Of Fiberglass Boat Hello - I'm new to this adventure of boat restoration so please forgive me if my questions seem to the learned - fundamental.
Is the foam required for structural integrity (along with safety floatation needs) and can current closed cell foam kits be used. I was planning on screwing the new floor to the 3 inch strips I left in place and then giving the fiberglass (existing) and light grind or rough up and then using fiberglass mat to readhere the new floor to the hull sides --- Does that seem reasonable.
Location: Eustis, FL No you don't need to install the foam again, but many think it's a good idea. It's wise to use marine grade plywood in the replacement sole, though many use a BCX sheet, available from their local lumber store, but it's weaker and prone to failure because of lower panel construction requirements in these grades of plywood, but fortunately the sole in most boats isn't highly loaded. You can lay the new piece(s) on the flange created by the old sole tabbing, but the support stringers under the sole will need to be shimmed up the thickness of the removed plywood, to accommodate the height difference. Yes, you need to coat both sides and especially the end grain of all the new pieces going in the boat, with particular attention to all cutouts and screw holes. Location: Owen Sound Ont Canada Hello Par - thank you for your advice --- a few questions. The hull of the boat has NO ribs or other structural cross or long members save for the keel itself - with the old foam removed - there is nothing there but the inside of the hull.
If you ran the boat up on trailer rollers without support - I doubt it would take much to crack the hull - so if I do not RE-foam it - then I think I need to create some form of hull support system in its place -- you views.

Location: Eustis, FL If it's one of the old Chryslers then it has a humongously thick hull shell and really doesn't need anything else.
Originally Posted by MDCHILDS Hello - I'm new to this adventure of boat restoration so please forgive me if my questions seem to the learned - fundamental. To risk re-post, do not reinstall the foam unless you want someone else to perform the task you are presently undertaking. Marine plywood lumber epoxy resin fiberglass finish supplies specialty tools and disposables. Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building ampere forum to discourse and share tips and project updates on fiberglass boat building and repair as fountainhead equally mold.
Location: Milwaukee, WI Standard practice in the industry is to lay the bigger pieces first.
The gap that occurs (to be avoided) may well have no importance, if that gap is not between successive layers. Location: Milwaukee, WI There was a series of articles on Professional Boatbuilder that had all the data to back my claim.
Originally Posted by gonzo There was a series of articles on Professional Boatbuilder that had all the data to back my claim. Location: Eustis, FL This has been an on going debate for some years (decades). If doing the work by hand, just make up a couple of test patches, one with the smaller to larger layers, and the second the other way around.
The image attached clearly shows the result of the small to large overlaps, especially when it's knocked down with a grinder (dashed lines). Regarding the first-line times I can not say much because my experience as a builder is null .
I plan on making a male mold then fiberglassing that, but I can't think of what to make the mold out of. Any thoughts or suggestions as to what would be an easier material to make this mold out of.
Or should I start with woven cloth,alternating cloth and mat and finnishing with two layers of mat? Hal , just curious what type of material are you using for the backing that is shown in your pics ?
This can be a tedious pain in the butt, so most just tab it back it where it was, reusing the old tabbing (flange) to marry the old to the new. It's actually waterproof, while polyester (boat resin at the local store) isn't, it's way stronger, doesn't smell or gas off harsh fumes and is easy to work with.
These epoxy formulators have a host of information about how to use their products, but the techniques and methods apply to all epoxy work. Contrary to what you might think, I'll bet you could strip the boat of everything and the hull shell wouldn't move much on the trailer. When you have created the outline of your bulkhead unscrew the sticks and transfer your new pattern to your plywood.
In our gravy boat building method the resins and fiberglass are much more important than the plywood. It's done both ways, but most find that installing tabbing or any fabric layers is best, if you to go from big to to small, for the reasons Gonzo has stated.
You'll quickly find you'll never get rid of the bubbles, puckers and resin rich areas at each transition where the larger piece has to conform to the smaller one below it.
Just watching reality I can give a pair of examples:Years ago all was cooked in copper cauldrons and now that is forbiden . I just will expose some ideas for the experts confirm or disprove: The connection of the plate with a profile to be studied, taking into consideration the shear forces that occur in the bonding surface therebetween.
I thought about the 2" pink foam insulation sheets, gluing then together then shaping them, but I am not sure if this would be the easiest. Thanks, now I just have to figure out how to bend it into this shape with the dimensions that I need.

1708 comes with a light weight csm on one side id put that against the foam and dont scimp on resin make sure you got the right amount of resin !!,cover and use peel ply over the both sides .
As soon as this is wet out, proceed with laminating a single layer of 1708 or similar glass fabric right to the edges, then cover this with peel ply and roll out all the bubbles etc let it cure.
If you are concerned with sinking if you hit a reef or container, you can always seal the area airtight with epoxy, But this is overkill. Marine Epoxy & Fiberglass Cloth for Boatbuilding and sauceboat mending MAS arrangement Three and West organization Epoxies boat building fiberglass. The figure on the right says that the overlapping layers are alternately on one side and the other of reinforcement. In the case of bagged or infused work, this is less a concern as the gaps get well filled, crushed down and though resin rich, not as bad as hand laid laminates.
Additionally, when it comes time to fair the surface, a grinder will cut through the larger over smaller fabric at these transition points, where as the larger to smaller laminate, the grinder will just trim the edges of the subsequent layers. For years Classification Societies offered us formulas that calculate the minimum thickness of a laminate.
A laminate composed of several layers, is a diverse body which does not work the same way in all its thickness.
Fair up the foam core then glass the outside and finish how ever you want to!!, Remember the thicker the core the more ridged it will be , A single layer of 600 gram triaxle glass each side done with epoxy would be heaps strong enough make sure the foam is H 80 grade not lower !!
Once its all hard just rip it off and you will have a good surface to Bog and fill and sand etc . Epoxy does cost more then polyester resin, but you don't need as much because it so much stronger. Check it out, at the time humans had not figured out how strong fiberglass was, so the designs tended to lean towards excess. I would then use a single layer of 1708 to encapsulate the top of the stringer overlapping the tape by a few inches but not all the way to the hull.
If you do it wet over dry you just use a scraper to knock off the stray fibers and use enough resin to fill any gaps. From an engineering point of view, this is a huge consideration as the moment your grinder cuts through one or more of these layers, you've defeated the whole point of staggering the layers in the first place and this is why you'll find most professionals, with actual hands on wet fabrics experience, will prefer to lay bigger to smaller pieces in a laminate. You have a sound hull that will never need any reinforcements other than some little bulkheads to catch your soul.
Watch out Later How to Build a Fiberglass Boat Mold preparation divide 1aby Persuader Performance Boats 62 029.
Are you thinking that he would let the first layer cure and then just slap the next on top without cleaning up the edge? It is a very interesting idea and I do get your point about bridging over the previous layer and leaving a void to be filled by resin. Now they tell us that a laminate with sufficient thickness can not be right , there are more things to analyze.
Should the foam core be installed to only stick up from the hole, then sanded or faired out to the shape of the outside of the deck and then layers of glass laid over the whole outer deck?
On professional deformation , I usually doubt almost everything and seek improvements in what I design . From all this I can (???) conclude that if the last layer is the weakest and less wide, surely we are going to have a problem. So just for clarification, are saying to make a fiberglass backing , to replace the white former I the pic above, then put a 6mm foam core just inside the cutout, then a 9 mm foam core over the entire deck to the outer edges, then sand and fair, then a layer of 1708 + peel ply, then glass over entire underside? How to have axerophthol fiberglass gravy boat victimization off’ foam or balsa core or C turn fiberglass planking methods boat building fiberglass. Would a layer of foam over the entire outside surfac not build the deck up thicker than original?

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