Fiberglass boat repair hamilton ontario weather,used boat dealers in dayton ohio zip,boat seats mounts list - How to DIY

Published 17.11.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Free Fishing Boat Plans

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With summer being over I have plenty to keep me occupied this winter working on the inside of the boat so the rush is now on to finish any projects on the hull.
First thing to do is remove the physical thru hull, it's in 2 parts the actual thru-hull and a seacock. Proceeded to cut out pieces of fiberglass cloth each one getting progressively small until I reached the finally shape of the actually hole, about 25-30 layers, I lost count. After all the cloth was cut out, I used epoxy and layered them all together starting with the largest going down to the smallest. Once that cured - took a day, I sanded the area down and then filled and faired it twice with a mixture of epoxy and 407 fairing filler. I need to add some thickness to the floor - forgot to take a picture- but glassed up about 8 layers for heavy cloth in a mold 3"x16". Next I drilled the hole for where the cam would go and made a pattern to rout out a hollow area for the body of the latch to set into the floor. Grinded down some of the area around where the latch would press against the frame creating a cam effect to totally tighten the floor down. One of my problems with my new boat is that when on land, since I've owned her she's only been in the water for 2 months, the bilge would fill up with water after a good rain storm and I believe that is caused by 2 problems. Before I would tackling that problem I decided to add a garboard bilge drain plug, that way any water that got in the bilge would just drain out. Next I took my right angled drill and drill a pilot hole through the hull to the outside from the top of the bilge.. After I checked the sizes I drilled a hole for the key on the left side, this is so that there's no chance that the plug will turn in the whole and then drilled the main hole through he hull!


Nice to see that the hull is over an inch thick here and my calculations on where the bottom of the bilge is, was dead on!
Filed out the key hole and then router-ed out the hull in the area scored by the big hole bit, the exact depth needed to make sure the plug was flush with the hull. Now I drilled the hole for the bolts that would secure the plug in, then tapped them - I decided I would use silicon bolts as that also made it possible for me to bond the plug with the boats electrical system. After spending the past couple of months, deconstructing parts of my boat, I had to have a project where I actually saw some progress and made me feel good that something was getting done.
Started by making patterns so they would fit properly, especially since on a boat nothing is at 90%. I wired up the switch panel and the stereo, so now I can listen to NPR or my Ipod while working - have grown tired of the silence and hmmm of the tools.
I need to remove the cabinet in the head, then I can remove the last of the old bulkhead and maybe in a week or 2 replace it.
Packaging should be the same as what is found in a retail store, unless the item is handmade or was packaged by the manufacturer in non-retail packaging, such as an unprinted box or plastic bag. Contact the seller- opens in a new window or tab and request a shipping method to your location. One of my major undertakings has been eliminate some of my thru-hulls, and move some others. Seacock was easily removed inside the boat but the thru-hull was nicely bedded in the hull. I also used different thickness and types of cloth and varied the direction of the weave- gives the repair added strength. I'll let this cure till next spring when I'll then apply a barrier coat over the areas that will be underwater and gel coat above the water.
Set up wooden spacing blocks because the floor had a couple of stringers and I couldn't lay the router flat on the floor. You can see how the 1" weather stripping is flatten with no light showing through, you can also now see the glass block I epoxied to the floor for added thickness. During the summer it got quite hot, so much so that weekends I often could only spend a couple of hours at the boat yard. Talking to a number of boat owners here in the yard, seems like most of them have one installed- really nice to have over the winter.


Wish I could remember who's site I came across, but I followed his directions and that worked perfect! Finished - you can see that the plug sits pretty far down on the boat and after the rains we have had, there's no longer any sitting water in my bilge. On my last boat I didn't have such an area, but after sailing on my friends Tartan 3700, that had a nice navigational station I wanted one! If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. Thankfully there's a great tool called a step wrench, found one at Hamilton Marine which is becoming my favorite marine store.
Transferred the epoxy resined cloth to a plastic carrier and then applied it to the repair area.
As I mentioned in my last blog, I always had water in the bilge especially after a heavy rain storm, I believe and now know it was due to the cockpit floor.
I had one from years again and was getting ready to sell it on ebay when I realized I could use it for the floor.
Brought mine from Hamilton Marine in Maine as they had one that would be flush with the hull! Outside I marked it and drilled a shallow hole where the plug would go through, then drilled a shallow hole at the outside of the bronze drain plug, the exact depth of the thickness of the plug, so it would sit flush with my hull. It's a remove-able floor which gives me great access to the engine, steering mechanics and more, but it was held in place with screws, which as we all know don't really like to be tighten and loosened repeatedly in fiberglass.
But unlike the PS which has nice jam latches to secure the floor mine, only a couple of screws - which never really tighten up well. Then cleaned and cleaned- scrubbed with degreaser-- found lots of gunk but no tools down there. Plus with planning on going off shore again, I definitely wanted to make sure I had a good seal.



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