Free boat design resources 7th,free boat quilt blocks quilt,free boat bill of sale mississippi,fishing pontoon boats for sale in ontario wi - For Begninners

Published 09.10.2013 | Author : admin | Category : Wooden Yachts

Coming to a design website and asking help stealing plans for a boat currently in commercial production is generally considered bad form. Location: Eustis, FL I don't know of any free aluminum, welded jon boat plans available.
Location: Washington 6 foot wide plus the flare to the sides generally comes out to a boat about 8 feet wide, which is the maximum trailerable width in most states. Location: New Orleans It depends on what type of ribs, and the attachment methods, and how much you are willing to spend. In a large commercial shop you would likely use a hydrolics press to stamp the shapes out of aluminium plate. For a one off build, either a Hand break machine if you have one available, or if not cut each piece, then weld it into place. Location: Washington Where I come from braces are what dentists use to straighten your teeth. Location: Seattle, Washington, USA Then there is the Brace and bit when you are drilling a hole by hand using a Wood Auger Bit.
Location: The Loft Good one Saildude, there is only one tool there and yet a brace is classed as two?
Location: Seattle, Washington, USA The Brace by it's self does not do much so you need the bit for the Brace to be much more than a wall hanging (OK you can also get countersinks, screwdrivers etc. Seattle is Mostly sunny today and Sunday - high about 66 degrees - - But if we wait until Tuesday or so the showers should be back to normal - Saildude View Public Profile View Saildude's Website View Saildude's Gallery Find all posts by Saildude Page 1 of 2 1 2 > « Am I crazy?
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Oregon Aluminum Jet Boat Plans I have made a futile attempt at finding plans for an aluminum jet sled. Location: Alaska jet sled plans Trigger, it might help if you could give a bit of back ground, have you built a welded aluminum boat before this project? Its easier, on all forums, for anyone who might offer information to form a good quality response when you provide more precise details. You should determine EXACTLy what you'll do and what you'd hire out, especially as regard the cutting of the parts; hull panels, frames and bulkheads. Since you're looking for an almost flat bottomed sled with little or no V section forward, the hull is much more simple to build. All these items will help refine the work of selecting a plans package, or help you to submit them to someone to design one for you.
Location: Alaska marine design software Trigger, this forum has a rousing ongoing discussion of marine design software and will be of good assistance in trying to select a package.
What I suggest you keep in mind is the design cycle, which doesn't get the press it should.
It too easy to get sucked into a method where you rely on the PC's lines to start your boat, if you don't draw well by hand at least get some battens and work with them by hand-then enter the PC. If you follow a design cycle with some care you can avoid redrawing parts of your boat that were not clearly thoughtout in a previous (more initial) stage of your design work. I also suggest that you avoid a V in the after bottom sections -convex camber runs better under sleds and then bring in the V forward amidships section. Location: Alaska jet sled design procedure Trigger, I read on some of the forums remarks about the different marine software packages and one remark kind of stands out.
I want to discourage you from taking this time as I've spent hundreds of hours downloading and setting up tests of features lists and tool functionality. I can summarize it all by saying the remark (unattributed to its wise author) is true as far as I can say. If I could suggest any package it would be the package of software that seems the most obvious to you. I've worked in Prosurf, MaxSurf, Rhino and several of the others until I'm blue in the mouse hand. How do you interact and what work flow method is required to draw a boat in this package or that?
Location: Alaska Aluminum extrusions at the chine Trigger, many highly regarded production builders use an extrusion at the chine which holds the bottom AND the side. I would suggest that it is poor practice to incorporate this into your design for several reasons. I think hull seams should be fully welded inside and out AND the appearance of a weld is 'welded'. The edge of 5052 plate has experienced exfoliation (peeling into layers) when it was used in these extrusions in salt water although it took a decade to show up.
The edge of the side and the edge of the bottom plates are NOT welded in the slotted chine hull joint.
I know other builders who are certain that the weld near but not on the edge of the plate makes the remaining fraction of an inch of plate loose its heat treatment without being mixed in the puddle and fused to another plate. My experience is very limited with this method of building, but I'd like to encourage you to seriously consider the advantages of inside and outside welding instead of just inside welding between the two differing alloys. I have built a few skiffs that were lost in a storm while towing in the Gulf of AK, one was found years later on the bottom of a log pile.
Location: Southern Oregon Interesting to hear the other side of the coin on this one.
Location: British Columbia, Canada I have some experience with the phenomenon known as crevice corrosion. Location: Southern Oregon Good Info JD, Something I have not seen but definately makes sense.
Location: Alaska chine extrusions benefits Joey, good points about the benefits of chine extrusions regarding set up, fairing and aid in building. Almost always built with a crew of a few and most often hanging sides was done with four guys.
I think a stringer type bead, fast hot and drag style along the outside of the slotted chine would allow the one-off builder or working team to have the advantage of the setup without building a weaker joint.
Your observation is right on for a single chine sled shaped hull; the slotted chine extrusion would save lots of build effort and often these boats spend considerable time in fresh water.
My preference for a cover angle shape welded over an inside edge to inside edge then double welded joint is likely overbuilding; due to long association with Alaskan commercial fishermen. Most boat design software is so complicated you don't know where to get started - which is the same as most software.
The worst part is when the help doesn't work or solve your problem and the customer service is lousy. As I mentioned on the previous article, I had searched everywhere for boat design software and finding 3D Boat Design was a wish come true.


You see some companies, on purpose make boat design software almost un-useably difficult so that they can rack up costly support tickets and squeeze as much money out of as possible.
However unlike these other companies, 3D Boat Design has a full range of tips and an FAQ with support included with every purchase. I then decided to test my hull, because the software has great hydrostatic calculations that tell you how to improve your hull. The great thing about it is that it accommodates amateur designers like myself and professionals who would make full use of its many features with things like the Delft series resistance calculation and The KAPER resistance method. As well as having great fun designing your own sailboat you get free upgrades and can use it on as many computers as you want. So, in conclusion, regardless of whether you want to build a boat yourself or just design boats as a hobby or business, the 3D Boat Design Software is the one tool you can start with and you won't be disappointed! It is possible, like I said before, to use this boat design software to start your very own boat design business. Just create a design and turn it into plans to be sold as a boat building kit, just like so many others are doing. This is powerful boat design software and yet simple enough for a novice to use and be successful with, right out of the box. It is hard to imagine being able to get your hands on such incredible software at such an affordable price.
I fully recommend this software to anyone wanting to mess around with boat design or start your own professional boat plan business. All boat plans come with free 3-D computer models & free Master Boat and support materials that would allow boat builders of every skill level to create the wooden boat. The Folding Kayak Builders Manual (Free plans for aluminum framed folding kayaks) Free Boat Design Resources On The Internet (Designs, design software, essays and. Oh yes Plans I think the pics that went missing from my first post may have been the plans for this 16ft alloy V bottom johnboat. And one last one showing the broad outline of how the pieces go together once released from their parent sheet bye cutting the tabs that hold it in place.. You get a step bye step guide booklet that tells you what to do and in what order, as well as another book that tells you all about the welding process and what your aiming to achieve in terms of a decent weld.
Also you get all the info you need on electrolysis protection painting wiring etc etc the hull. If you want free hull lines for this kind of powerboat contact me and I will send you a 3D dxf files. I probably should have added another post to this thread, about the Australian Standards that apply to powering such a vessel.
Knowing that 60 Hp is the max you can get on a 16 ft alloy boat, you have to start to wonder how a manufacturer can get away then with putting 200 horses on the back of a similar vessel? The above standard AS 1799 is not a commercial vessel standard and does not apply to survey vessels. Hmmm thats got me thinking then I wonder how many horsepower I can get away with on one a these? Then again It mightn't be a bad idea if i conduct a few stability tests before I get too carried away! Sorry Joe 4 months later I spotted your question when I was reading back thru an old thread looking for something else. All up with the 50 HP outboard it weighs a LOT more than you might think - like a full 1 tonne (1000 kilos, or ~2250 pounds). If you run that vessel lightship (minimal gear) then yes a 25 HP is ample and when fiorst buolt I ran her for a year or more with 25 ponies -including some relaticely long offshore islands runs of up to 38 Nm in one leg - 24 in another and about 40 in yet another. The rason for the 50 is the weight the vessel gained with the timber console gear locker thwart seat, flotation foam additional 5 gal tank, 3 batterys electroc troller and all the fly gear I cart while on charter.
All that gear was required to achieve a comemrcial passenger survey cert from Govt transport authorities (along with epirbs and fkares radio sat phone charts etc etc etc etc..
I do agree that lightship with 50 ponies she would be a real handfull especially in it's current tiller steer configuration. Then again the 16 ft Punt I posted painted white has 200 ponies on basically the same hullform.(go figure).
I did hear the engione was recovered and that passengers survived the crocks due to the speed bouncing them across the water up the bank some meters beyond the waters edge (and crock territory). I would suggest thinking of either buying a boat from the manufacturer, likely for what it would cost to build, or looking for free plans of a similar type of boat. The first is that maximum width of a boat on a trailer is 8' so any wider than this means you have to have special permits.
You could probably do most of the entire construction of a boat in just a few steps, though the set up cost would be million.
A hand break is usually found in even small metal fabrication shops, so you might be able to either pay them to form the sheets, or rent access to the machine for a relatively small fee. In the end, I think this is what will be more productive for you, choosing the software that is the closest to your 'way of thinking'.
The lap weld occurs some two or three thicknesses back from the edge of the plate and then it occurs between 6061 or 6063 depending on the alloy of the chine extrusion and the 5086 or 5052 hull plates.
If you only weld one side of a slotted chine extrusion, there is a risk of creating an oxygen depleted area that is exposed to seawater. Your all geared up to start transforming a photo with Adobe Photoshop or making budget sheet with Microsoft Excel, but then the problems start. It is used by 200,000 amateurs and professionals, who all use it to design their own boats in the simple to use 3d environment. Well, as I was building this website, I was suddenly struck by the possibility of designing a boat, instead of reviewing loads of other boats - just for fun, I wasn't actually going to build it, but I just wanted to make all sorts of wacky designs, just like when you doodle as a kid!
It was only $37.95, which is about as low as you going to get with software of this calibre and topic. So I learnt all about the software, which wasn't hard as it has a very shallow learning curve and I got the gist of it very quickly. I first had to make the shape of it, which wasn't very difficult, because 3D Boat Design has simple 3D scaling, moving and rotating of shapes.
It ended up looking a bit like a GP14 - probably my unconscious mind working in the background! Usually, you are told just the opposite as the software developer tries to justify ridiculously overpriced programs. Rumour has it she was written off douing 70MPH around a bend in Australia's northern territories East Alligator river. Unless you are used to doing this type of work, asking them to do it is probably a better option though.


The oxide layer on the aluminum sloughs off or is rubbed off by a small amount of flexing in the chine and can't be replaced in the expected way.
Then other insignificant sources of corrosion (the tiny copper content of 60 series extrustions for example) can become major propblems. It is of course possible to weld three plates together to get a 12' wide plate, but this is again additional cost and complexity. I'm leaning towards ProChine3 as it looks like a decent low budget start, but no firm decision yet.
If, on the other hand, you choose poooorrrly, you'll become adveserial toward the publisher and the software. I want to do as much as I can with the build, but the more info as in lines, framing, plate development the better.
I will definetely be around this place, I have alot to learn and there is alot of knowledge here.
As always, I've included a .hul file for those who wish to take a look at the hydrostatics, or to develop their own version.
Also, there is a discussion group for builders and users of the Mouse family, and for those interested in the designs at Mouse Boats. I think this is still the first design of this kind available freely over the Web.
The drawings are zipped and in .dxf format, and show various views including the developed panels - if you fancy the real thing, as I do, why not begin by making a small model?
Let me know if you're interested in sail plans and modifications for camp cruising, as I believe this hull is just about powerful enough for a small cruising sail plan, and I've got some on the drawing board. It would have to be small, as any boat that rows as well as sails is a compromise one way or the other. Incidentally, I've called it a trow because it's form is based very loosely on a traditional British flat-bottomed type, the Fleet trow - however, the old boats were heavily built, and had no rocker.
Also look out for the on-line books he's in the process of putting up - I think the link will be from his Cheap Pages. Andy has put up the design as a backdrop; save the image, and you have the design.
He says the boat works pretty well in most conditions, but sometimes makes him feel seasick in in waves and a light wind.  Sampans Fancy a real challenge? Just start off by ignoring the first sentence of the second set of instructions. I've paddled one of these things, and I can tell you that there's nothing like the suicidal balance of these little boats.
It's interesting that although thought of a primarily Welsh and Irish in origin, these craft were - maybe still are - launched from both the English and Welsh sides of the lovely river Wye, and I understand there's an English professional soccer team that uses one as a mascot.
Take a look and see what you think - my guess is that some people may build this astonishing little craft as a very low-cost motor-sailing cruiser.
From a book about converting lifeboats into yachts, I gather that traditional sailing lifeboats were not normally expected to sail upwind - I wonder how this one would do against the wind? If you aren't one of the lucky people who have their own ShopBot, my hunch is that the ShopBot's suppliers may be able to put you in touch with someone who has one and is willing to cut out you sheet material for a reasonable fee.
As a Brit, I'm delighted to be able to publish something that originated in my own country for once! You will have to contact the author to receive details of how to download the plans.
Many are closely based on traditional types, including rare traditional hard-chine UK types, and a few from his own fevered imagination. There are links to pages where Hulls can be downloaded on the drawings page, and also in the Software section below.
Some people think it's a lot cuter than an Optimist, and it's probably close to being the perfect two-sheet dink.
There are also links to designs for a folding kayak, and a conventional kayak, and an excellent treatise on how to do tack and tape boatbuilding. The designer says it performs well, but may be a little tricky in the building.
Hans, an experienced canoeist and enthusiastic woodworker, says it works well, is stable and tracks well. Hans designed the Marak using Gregg Carlson's Hulls program (see below for much more on this software). But I'm still rather torn about the issue: how do you feel about people who hide perfectly good designs away where no-one can find them or use them? I hope Mr Beavis, Mr Sleightholme, and their publishers of twenty-odd years ago won't mind too much. I really liked this and used it for my top-of-the-page logo, and re-drew it a little longer and beamier using CAD for the generation of a century later.
I gather Munroe once told his friend and student Vincent Gilpin that he would 'cheerfully sit up all night to cut out one superfluous rope from a sail plan', and from these drawings you can see that he meant it. Those that have been designed are intended mainly as a piece of fun and shouldn't be taken too seriously.
I'm sure the one-sheet design brief is impossible - but if you're going to tinker with something, it might as well be as cheap as chips. This is the now famous Herb McLeod One-Sheet Skiff - read the 'Big guy goes frogging' link for a smile.
I haven't the slightest idea what he does with the frogs, but I'm sure my mother would be shocked if she knew about it. Another single-sheeter drawn by myself is available only as a series of coordinates that you have to plot on the plywood sheet. Use a batten - a thin, straight and flexible piece of wood - to join the lines in smooth, fair curves. Mark them and cut them out and after that it's a straightforward tack-and-tape job with a certain amount of framing.
To me, it's a more useful and serious looking one-sheeter than I thought possible, and should really be thought of as a kind of coracle rather than as an attempt at a one-sheet skiff, and it might even be useful as a tiny tender. You could work entirely from the gifs and the coordinates file without too much work - I'd start by squaring-off the ply material and then plotting the corrdinates.
If you build this boat, please let me know and, if at all possible, do please send me pictures of the finished craft in and out of the water, and perhaps a few notes about what you use it for.



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