Free boat wiring diagrams guitar,boat charter tampa fl 92.5,24 ft pontoon boat for sale florida - PDF 2016

Published 06.11.2013 | Author : admin | Category : Wooden Yachts

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Starting system problems are common and not all problems are caused by a faulty starter motor. A typical starter solenoid has one small connector for the control wire (the white connector in the photo) and two large terminals: one for the positive battery cable and the other for the starter motor (see the diagram below). The starter motor requires a very high current to turn over the engine, that's why it's connected to the battery with thick (large gauge) cables (see the diagram).
The negative (ground) cable connects the "-" battery terminal to the engine cylinder block, close to the starter. For safety reasons, the starter motor can only be operated when the automatic transmission is in Park or Neutral position; or if the car has a manual transmission, when the clutch pedal is depressed. To accomplish this, there is a Neutral Safety Switch installed at the automatic transmission shifter mechanism or at the clutch pedal in case of a manual transmission. Often a transmission range sensor - the part that tells the powertrain computer which position (P R N D) the transmission is in, is used as a neutral safety switch (in the photo). When the automatic transmission is not in Park or Neutral (or when the clutch pedal is not depressed), the neutral safety switch is open and the starter control circuit is disconnected. If when you are trying to start the car, you hear the starter cranks as usually, but the car doesn't start, then the problem is most likely not with the starting system - read our car no-start troubleshooting guide for tips how to find a problem. Poor connection at the cable terminals can cause the starter not to work or run very slow too.
Sometimes the starter control terminal gets corroded (in the photo) or a starter control wire gets loose or disconnected from the terminal causing the starter not to work. When the starter motor doesn't work, first the state of charge of the battery, battery terminals and battery cables must be checked.
A starter motor has several (typically 4) electric windings (field coils) attached to the starter motor housing from the inside.
On the front end of the armature, there is a small gear that attached to the armature through an overrunning clutch. Please note: the information provided in this article is for informational purposes only and cannot substitute for the advice of professional mechanic or authorized dealer.
From a small sailing yacht to a very large motor yacht the first thing one needs to decide is how much electricity is needed.
If you need more electricity in a period than the batteries will hold you must get flat batteries.
If you can not put sufficient electricity back into the batteries within that period you get flat batteries. Batteries that are left in any sort of discharged condition will deteriorate much faster than fully charged ones, and batteries that are discharged very low and frequently will have a much shorter life. For a variety of reasons, including long life, this figure needs to be virtually quadrupled which means we must install something like 212 Ah of battery capacity – say 2 X 110 Ah batteries. You need to put about 20% more electricity back into the battery than you took out, so during the cruising period we need to replace about 65 AH of electricity.
A typical alternator output graph looks like this with a high initial output falling away to a float charge after a period of time.
All the above shows that we need a 40 amp alternator to avoid overcharging the batteries, and we need to run the engine for about.
If that suits your cruising style then you know how many batteries to install and the size of alternator required, however if you do not want to run for over 2.5 hours a day you must look at either shedding load, or other forms of charging like solar cells, wind generator, towed generator. The very low or just plain low outputs of these systems means the charging times become very long, so you might decide to shore charge and carry sufficient charged batteries to provide for the length of cruise expected.
If you add another 75 Ah engine starting battery the maximum alternator output rises to virtually 60 amps with a recharge time of 1.6 hours.


This is one of the main reasons I always prefer a split charging system, as well as it ensures that a domestic battery failure does not prevent engine starting.
Now, having done all those sums, you can go away and play with figures, equipment levels, engine run times etc. There is nothing magic about each battery getting the correct amount of charge on a split charging system. The big red switch can be wired so it switches either or both batteries to supply the load and also to charge, but in my view that gives too much chance to forget to switch it and flatten all the batteries. There is also an issue if the switch partially fails and brakes its contacts before it makes them under switching. The thin wire from the alternator to the relay can be fed from the alternator’s auxiliary output terminal (if there is one), warning lamp terminal, or if no other way the ignition switch or rising oil pressure switch. Fitting an accessible master switch is good practice because a short circuit can set fire to the boat and will not cool down until either the cable burns through or the supply is removed – switches are faster that waiting for the batteries to flatten. Do not stint on the size of the starter cables, the longer they are the thicker they need to be.
First ensure the cable is large enough so you do not loose electricity by heating up small cables.
Excess votdrop can give similar symptoms to flat batteries when higher current loads are used. There is no problem related to using cable that are too thick apart from your bank balance and possible routing problems. The fuse or circuit breaker is there to protect the CABLES – not the appliance – so NEVER fit a fuse or circuit breaker rated at more than the cables capacity.
You can add more circuits, fusing each, from the busbars, but you must ensure that the cables supplying the busbars are large enough. The information provided on these pages is correct to the best of my knowledge, however the MasterTech makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the use of, results of, or liability created from, application of this data.
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It consists of a powerful DC (Direct Current) electric motor and the starter solenoid that is attached to the motor (see the picture).
To turn over the engine the starter motor requires a very high electric current, which means the battery has to have sufficient power.
When activated, it closes the electric circuit and sends the battery power to the starter motor. At the same time, the starter solenoid pushes the starter gear forward to mesh it with the engine flywheel (flexplate in an automatic transmission). Often the battery terminals or the ground cable connection get corroded causing starter problems (see the photo).
For example, this corroded starter control terminal was the cause of a no-start, no-crank condition in the Mazda 3. Sometimes the carbon brushes or some other parts inside the starter motor wear out and the starter motor stops working.
This may cause a very loud metal grinding or screeching sound when attempting to start the car. The contact points inside the ignition switch wear out, so when you turn the ignition switch to the "Start" position, no electric current is going through the starter control circuit to activate the starter solenoid. For example, if a car starts in "Neutral" but doesn't start in "Park," the neutral safety switch should be checked first. One of the symptoms of a weak battery is when the dash lights go dim when the key is turned to the START position.


Your mechanic may start by measuring the battery voltage at the starter solenoid control terminal with the key in the START position. The armature (the rotating part) is connected through the carbon brushes in series with the field coils. Consult your mechanic, and check your car's owner's manual for safety measures, precautions, warnings, tips and recommendations.
However on a small yacht you may well have to have several goes at this with different assumptions before you find the right one for you.
Pumps should have the amperage drawn quoted on the label, but most other things will be quoted in watts.
The type is up to you, but unless I had very beamy family cruising yacht with a good keel I doubt I would be happy with ordinary wet cells.
How this is accomplished is up to you, but it may well shorten battery life if it is charged at more than about 20% of its amp hour capacity, so we should aim at a maximum charge rate of 40 amps – however it is produced.
Unfortunately the outputs of these devices are, shall we say, unpredictable, so are more difficult to design for. An unventilated dynamo on a petrol engine is likely to only provide about 10 amps, whilst a ventilated one will give about 28 amps at absolute maximum.
The current flowing to each battery will result from the DIFFERENCE between the battery voltage and the alternator output voltage. Just make sure you use good quality switches that are rated for at least 50% more than the starter current.
Good practice is to fit a single large fuse close to the master switch, but this is rarely done on small craft. There you will also find information on mechanical boat maintenance topics and details of an email advice service. This information is disseminated in good faith, however MasterTech assumes NO LIABILITY whatsoever in regard to this service. In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois). At the same, the starter solenoid pushes the starter gear forward to mesh it with the engine flywheel (flexplate) ring gear teeth.
If the starter motor is faulty, it will have to be replaced, which may cost from $250 to $650. If jiggling the key in the ignition helps start the car, it's possible that the ignition switch is defective. If there is no voltage, the problem is most likely in the starter control circuit (ignition switch, starter relay, neutral safety switch, control wire). Convert this to amps by dividing by 12 for battery driven loads and 10 for any inverter driven loads (like phone charger or GPS battery charger etc.).
I suspect I would use Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries as a fair compromise between cost, performance and availability. However if you fit an ammeter or use a clamp type ammeter on the main battery lead and note how long it takes to fall to under 10 amps you can assume the output for that period will average about 50% of what it says on the alternators label or datasheet. A flat battery will have a big voltage difference and so get a large charge, whilst a well charged battery will only have a little difference and so get a small charge. The information, software, products, and services published on this web site may include inaccuracies or typographical errors.
If there is a battery voltage at the starter solenoid control terminal with the key in the START position, the starter motor itself could be bad. Ideally you will be using deep cycle batteries for this load, but dual purpose ones may well be more attractive because they will also start the engine without major damage. If the battery is low on charge, when attempting to start the engine you will probably hear a single click or repeated clicking, or the starter may turn over slowly and stop.



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