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Published 04.01.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Sailing Skiff Plans

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Boat builder and historian Will Stirling has sent in these shots of his latest beautiful 9ft clinker dinghy – Will has a great eye for a photograph and these shots are up to his usual standard, even if it was a miserable day. These dinghies are a regular product line for Devon-based Stirling & Son and should be better known. Will and his workmates had to cut hundreds of softwood sticks to place between the planks to allow the timber to season – softwood is chosen for the job because it does not stain. By the way, Stirling & Son run twice-yearly courses during which students build their own 9ft traditional dinghy under the guidance of a skilled shipwright. For more posts relating to Stirling & Son boatbuilding projects and boat design work, click here. Would make a good blog post to have a snapshot of all the colleges with their different emphases?
Also could the 9ft be lengthened to say 12ft as this would IMHO make a much more useful boat? I think the Stirling's option would be interesting and would give you a very good idea about your aptitude for traditional boatbuilding, but I doubt it would amount to a re-training.
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Classic Sailor is a new magazine about traditional and classic boats from ex-Classic Boat editor Dan Houston and colleagues that promises rather more coverage of the traditional craft around our coast. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.
Follow me on TwitterLooking for something?This is a busy weblog, and what you're looking for is probably still here - just a little way down the list now. Our Faversham-based friend Alan Thorne can help with boatbuilding projects - constructing to plans in very tidy stitch-and-glue or more traditional techniques. Below is a video we made of one of the Gartside 10 dinghies - "Selkie" on her launch day. We can custom build to any design - for example those by Iain Oughtred, David Payne, Paul Gartside, John Welsford, Mark Bowdidge, Francois Vivier, Atkin , Bolger B&B etc.
We are sole Australian agents for Swallow Boats(UK) including the BayRaider and also the Australian importer and re-seller of the world renowned Bruynzeel BS1088 Gaboon Marine Plywood (Lloyds certified) and Barton Marine products (UK).
Ollie Reed built this 10ft clinker dinghy while on the Boat Building Academy’s38-week course over the past winter and spring.
While working as a labourer building building oak barns, houses and doing house repairs, he decided to do the BBA’s eight-week woodworking skills course to learn more about this kind of work – and while doing that was so impressed with what he saw going on with the 38-week long boatbuilding course that he decided to make it his next move.
Ollie felt the long course would take his skills to a higher level and open new doors – and that the skills involved in boat-building would be transferable to all sorts of things and offer a variety of opportunities in the long term. With the end of the course nearing, Ollie decided that boat building is the industry in which he would like to work, and is now working locally while looking for a job in a traditional boat yard. Tim is currently building timber-framed houses in the Lyme area and playing with his band. Sacriledge no doubt but it seems a pity that Stuart Turner hardly improved on Evinrude's original 1911 outboard after 50 years. Intended as a comment on the post below about the 1961 launch with a 1.5 hp Stuart Turner, sorry.
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Chatting with a few fellow wooden boat enthusiasts some time ago, it dawned on me that many of us would like to have the experience of building a traditional clinker boat, without any of us necessarily wanting to add yet another boat to our fleet. The conversation, which progressed over several months, recognised that a group project would be one way to do this, but that there were a few obstacles. While we all agreed that it was a good idea it was going nowhere, so I decided to overcome the first obstacle by designing the boat myself. As I thought this through, and played about with FreeShip software, I started to see some other advantages. As the design evolved I contacted potential participants to see if they would like to be involved in the project (which I named 'Little Red Hen' for motivational reasons obvious to those who know their folk tales). Well, here's your opportunity to get really involved, hands on, with helping build a more classic craft.
Quite a few components have been spoken for, but there are plenty more to come, as you will see. Please let me know how the TurboCAD works for this task, I'll have to consider acquiring it. With LRH I struck a problem with TurboCAD 12 using the facility to loft a series of profiles into a solid (e.g for the stem).
Location: Brisbane, Australia Progress Coming up with some more-or-less 'classic' dinghy lines is one thing, but it is not a plan for a boat. Well, this boat is hopefully going to use 'traditional' timber so we should probably adopt a 'traditional' approach i.e.
The pix below give an idea of the process but, as with anything to do with building your own boat, it was accompanied by much weeping and wailing and gnashing of teeth.
I work and live most of the time in China now (last few years boatbuilding in 5 different yards), and am currently project managing a new 120 foot explorer motoryacht. Originally Posted by Landlubber am currently project managing a new 120 foot explorer motoryacht This is, of course, a classic motor yacht built from traditional materials? Location: Finland Thank you for those images, they certainly were the most helpful. After exporting using only polylines I got the ball rolling and that precision is more than certainly enough for me.
We are also hoping to keep the cost of this project under control by using 'found' or re-cycled materials so perhaps we can recycle some of those old VJ boards (130mm x 19mm) into planks.
To help us get real about this, one of our group has made a very nice 10:1 scale model from the plans so far (see pic 1). We sort of agree that, with 6mm planks, the width of the lap and the stem rebate should be about 18mm. Armed with this clearer insight I have 'tweaked' the curve of the bilge so that the narrowest exposed plank width is now 52mm and the planks are more similar in width (see pic 4). I guess that actual laying off of the planks will be whatever eventuates, but at least we have better understanding of the issues, and increased confidence that they will look OK.

Location: Brisbane, Australia There are so many boat designs out there, some great, some not so great.
Having learned a bit about the relationship bewteen bilge turn rdius, plank width, and plank thickness, we are ready to apply our learning and progress a little further.
You can dig out some nice old stumps (try a bulldozer if possible) and get them from the roots, they are not from branches.
I have heard that melaleuca (I guess that's Tea Tree) has been used and there are a couple of abandoned melaleuca plantations on neighbouring properties, but the trees are nowhere near big enough.
Cheers, goolawah View Public Profile View goolawah's Gallery Find all posts by goolawah Page 1 of 3 1 23 > « 3 coats of epoxy after fairing and sanding - is it a must?
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This 14ft clinker-built sailing dinghy close to the main exit (and entrance) at the Southampton Boat Show will have been quite a relief for eyes suffering from shiny-white GRP-fatigue. She was built by Stirling & Son, and is of mahogany on oak with copper and bronze fastenings. We were away during the show, but I gather Will Stirling and his small team also took a 12ft rowing dinghy built to the same specification, and were selling sets of plans and five postcards of boat building work that no doubt were taken by the same hands that took the shots above.
This particular example is mahogany on oak with copper and bronze fastenings, spoon oars, with the name relief-cut with gold leaf. The courses are part-time, running for three days a week for sixteen weeks, and cost ?3,500 including materials.
A single clinker dinghy presumably includes only the experiences involved in making that dinghy, whereas I know the courses include experience of a wider range of boat building techniques. Try scrolling down, clicking on the 'older posts' button at the bottom of this page - or try the search gadget! We utilise both traditional methods such as carvel or clinker and modern methods such as strip planking, cold molding or clinker plywood.
It’s a replica of a dinghy called Barnacle belonging to instructor Mike Broome, and is built in mahogany with oak ribs and a mahogany fit-out. Firstly, how do you get a bunch of crusty 'old salts' to agree on the best plan from the best designer?
Having successfully designed and built our little stitch and glue, nesting dinghy Curlew, I thought I could take what I had learned about 'boat CAD' and design a traditional clinker dinghy of about the same size (10ft or 3metres), but with more 'conventional' lines. There was some scepticism regarding its feasibility, but general agreement and, after some consultation about material sizes etc, I punged into details of the design. You're the one who complained bitterly that my little Curlew nesting dinghy was a Big Mac boat. ViaCAD would work otherwise but I didn't succeed exporting my hull from FreeShip and I don't want to limit the transfer to offsets. A true traditional boat builder could do it all from a table of offsets but we have no room for lofting, and no materials yet, so we are substituting CAD for lofting with the idea of producing detailed plans we can build from. I then started 'virtual construction' of the backbone, within the hull shape, according to the agreed dimensions.
After going through some more AutoCAD tutorials I found out that the problem was that I tried to work with the DXF 3D mesh export which was next to impossible.
We've had a few emails and phone conversations around our little group and discovered a surprising diversity of ideas about what constitutes a 'Classic Clinker Dinghy'.
In the early 1900s there was an abundance of suitable timber for boat building in Brisbane. This helps get us out of the 'virtual' CAD world and actually start bending strips of paper around he moulds to see how it behaves. I still wanted to retain a bit of 'hardness' in the bilge for the sake of stability, so I haven't gone so far as to make it a simple arc as in the test exercise above. I thought I had better check the result for reasonableness, so ran a few splines arond the moulds to see how it looked (see pic 5 and 6). The next step was to carefully dimension all the component parts so that members of the group could choose something within their capabilities. If I found a tree big enough I probably wouldn't be able to access a bulldozer capable of dong the job. If you are thinking of building a clinker supply sauceboat but were afraid of the classic method of building clinker ply from plans here is how it is done.
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And aromas that bighearted island of Hawaii is a source of drive your m and forge on staying to type A in that position. I also wondered about the possibility of producing detailed dimension drawings of all of the individual components, so that each participant could make a part that suited their capabilities, in their own workshop, and they could all be brought together for final assembly.
When you see something that takes your fancy we we progress, send me a PM as we'll see how you might be involved.
I guess the proper way to do it is to do the engineering calculations about stresses and material strengths. My reason is that I just love the process and the learning and discovery that comes out of it. So, starting with the 'core' components I have drawn up the Transom, Stern Knee, Hog, Skeg, Keel, Mast Step, Breast Hook and Moulds. Below are and overall drawing of the 'backbone' examples of some of the detailed drawings handed out to the team including the stem profile.
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I tranferred to TurboCad after she was built as it was the best way to produce publishable, dimensioned drawings, in case anybody else wanted to build one, and in preparation for this project. So, it's back to CAD actually apply the 6mm plank width to the moulds in such a way as to end up with 18mm laps and an inner lip about 1mm (rather than a feather edge). This meant that the exposed plank width at the turn of the bilge would be about 36mm (see pic 2). If you just want the building experience I would definitely recommend using an established reputable design. In the fond hope of finding a grown crook for the stem I have just drawn a profile template that I can slap against any promising piece of wood that might be on offer, to see if it fits. A really wonderful English site called In the Boat Shed with lots of interesting articles and justify plans inc.
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From the beaches of Shirley Temple black market in direction beaches immature and so forth to live volcanoes in eruption. It could take quite a long time, and if it got built in any one person's garage it would become 'his' boat, and we couldn't have that. If participants supplied their own materials it would also overcome the funding problem, at least for a start. For a start, non-laminated wood is not a very predictable material so you would have to allow a greater margin than with manufactured materials like steel or carbon fibre.
The next step was collaboration with other participants so that we gained from some collective experience and wisdom. This sharpish curve might be OK for strip planking but I worried that for a clinker hull it might look odd due to the great variation in plank width. If you also seek the design experience it seems to make sense to design something that fits into a unique niche. I'll take this (and a chainsaw) with me next time we go to our block in the bush, but even though there are many big trees, I doubt if I could find one big enough and suitable for the stem. Back Mavin was upward and breakfasted ex regata owner enceinte manna Atomic Add classic eighty-five Mahurangi on pursual are essential the prevue Duckworks Wooden Boats-5.
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