How long to build a cedar strip canoe ontario,aluminum pontoon boats in saltwater vs.freshwater,design a floating cork boat flooring,pontoon boats craigslist nebraska panhandle - Test Out

Published 29.07.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Plywood Jon Boat Plans

I am building a Ranger 15 using plans from Bear Mountain Boats and thought I'd share photos as my build progresses. Gary,I just added this thread as a favorite so I can follow along, I've been wanting to build a cedar-strip canoe for more than 15 years now! 32ojdidit said:They say the fastest way to meet all your neighbors is to build a boat You're 100% right on that. Great looking strongback Gary, that was my biggest mistake was making a crappy strongback and I paid dearly with an extra week of fixing my cutting corners, can't wait to watch the progress!!!
After doing the Bowron Circuit last year with the family, I've been mulling over the idea of making a canoe.
Gary,Nice job on the strips, I'm not sure if I'm more impressed by the strips and the work you've done on them, or the fact that you found some time in between all this rain we've been having to actually work with your shop doors open!
I have found when ripping strips that if the board is not bowed too sharply they rip fine on a table saw with a nice feather board set up.Nice job on the strips! Brian and Arko - the finish on the top was intended to be gloss, but I had a lot of trouble with dust getting into the varnish to the point that it was more like a non-skid surface.
The wall of the coaming comes in the kit as mahogany veneers pre-laminated into the correct shape, but not cut to final contour. You may have seen one on top of someone's car, or floating by on the lake, and it was love at first sight. The Digital Millennium Copyright Act ("DMCA") is a United States copyright law that provides guidelines for online service providers in case of copyright infringement.
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Lulu Staff has been notified of a possible violation of the terms of our Membership Agreement. The page you are attempting to access contains content that is not intended for underage readers. Strip Cedar is a method commonly used today for kayaks and canoes but as one of the main advantages is that practical any shape can be created, some very interesting multihulls have been built with the same concept.
Basically, the boat is built 'core first', with a very simple building jig being used made up of station templates cut in plywood or chipboard from the designer's plans. Along with a description of the various steps, some of the pictures you will see are of a Farrier F-25A under construction—a fine example built by West Coast engineer Mike Wright, who kindly granted permission to use these images. As is typical of almost any home boat project, one starts with constructing a building baseframe (some call this, a strongback) on which transverse templates are positioned.
Generally the designer supplies full size paper patterns for these frames and their shape is transferred over to the plywood along with a datum line or two, including the centerline of the part to the created. Between the stem and stern, there will typically be anywhere from 9 to 19 stations to set up on the frame. These two beautiful 31' catamarans (designed by John Shuttleworth UK), were built by high-school students in Switzerland as an education project, under the instruction and guidance of their teacher and the designer himself. Although the strip thickness will generally stay constant (½" for these 31' cats), they can also vary in width, with wider strips being used where the surface has less curvature flat. The sketch shown here (CLICK for a larger image) not only shows the cove and bead design, but also shows a premium 'classic' strip (at left) that is machined with a convex surface and used for some canoes where the bilge radius is tight.
Typically, one starts by laying a strip around the hull roughly through the bilge area and then working from that strip towards both the keel and the gunwale. For small boats, one can use the inexpensive, cream, water-soluble, carpenters glue applied to the edge of each strip, although for a larger boat, it's more typical and stronger to use a thickened epoxy.
If one selects to use a square edge rectangular strip (which is generally easier to prepare), then the self aligning feature is lost. On a larger boat like this trimaran, it is generally considered more time-effective to build in most of the interior bulkheads and floor while the hull skin is still supported in the mould. Although the process for building strip plank boats is really quite simple, it does take time, since everything is done by hand, with the surface added each time being relatively small. This F25A took about 2 years for the three hulls (part-time of course) but in this case, the three hulls were immaculately finished by a perfectionist (see later photo) and THAT can really burn up the hours. The strength and stiffness of Kiri will likely also be about 15-18% less than red cedar, again something close to that of northern white cedar.
Always keep in mind, particularly with coniferous trees, that there is often a significant variation in weight, strength and durability and that one needs to carefully check the stock from which you intend to buy.
Balsa was first used in boats back in the late 50s, shortly after FRP became popular, so this is not a new material by any means.
First, for those not familiar with 'how' it's used, we need to understand that in the flat form as used for model planes etc, it would be almost useless for boats. Balsa is light, comes from a replaceable resource (grows fast—mostly in Central America), gives good sound and thermal insulation and effectively damps vibration.
But the major issue for a boat, is the infiltration of water because once it gets inside the pores, not only do the fine theoretical properties disappear but it's VERY hard to dry out if not impossible, and almost always results in rot over the longer term.
So faced with this dilemma, the balsa manufacturers came up with the concept of bonding a thin layer of gaboon mahogany over the balsa end grain (both sides) and then making this available either in sheets (for bulkheads etc) or in narrow pre-cut strips for hulls. But this end grain protection skin is still typically only 1⁄20" thick and during the sanding-fairing process, might well end up thinner than that or even none at all.

The Baltek Corp that manufactures balsa sheets for boats, also produces a sheet of end-grain balsa that is flexible. But a light multihull would not normally have such a solid layup and with thinner skins, the risk of water infiltration just increases.
While the test figures may indeed be correctly recorded, they do not consider the whole picture. The bottom line is that ideally, foams need to be closed cell to block all water transfer, be fatigue resistant and also able to absorb internal dynamic stresses as the sandwich gets pulled, pushed and sheared from various changing sail-induced forces and additionally pounded from waves and impacts at speed. Foams can also be used in strips and laid up over or within a mold, just as cedar or balsa strips are.
The reason I ask is many of the people I have talked to that have made their own strips climb cut them on the router table because the cut is quite a bit better and less tear out. To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions.
So, your sister should probably be a bit careful about leaving the kayak in the sun when it is not being cooled as a result of contact with water.
After all this work, if she doesn't use it I may have to re-evaluate her status as my sister.
I got ahead of myself in a couple of areas , which made it a bit more challenging than it needed to be but it all worked out. If you need assistance with an order or the publishing process, please contact our support team directly. Please note that you will be liable for damages (including costs and attorneys' fees) if you materially misrepresent that the material is infringing your copyright.
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The fact that it uses wood along with relatively simple techniques and tools, permits builders of minimal skill to have success. While canoes etc are built over a male station templates, multihulls are more typically built in a female mould representing ½ the completed hull, with an erection joint down the centerline (see later). The stem and sternpiece (or transom) are also cut out and these are generally the first parts to be set up on the building frame, as they define the fore and aft ends of the boat.
Their height and location will be critical and they must be absolutely vertical and set up perfectly square to the centerline, as it is these sections that will dictate the hull shape and its symmetry.
This will only occur IF the beads and coves are machined central to the strip itself, so one has to be very careful if machining these yourself (generally with a table mounted router), that the bead and cove are cut straight and consistently, down the center of the strip—not always an easy task.
So in order to keep each strip level with its neighbor, small pins are typically used to hold each new strip flush in place, either to its neighbor or to the mould itself. After all the strips are in place, one pulls all the nails and staples and cleans of any excess glue. At least the work is 'downhand', though considerable care must be taken to position parts precisely, as the two halves of the hull must line up accurately when assembled together.
However, it's a system that works well for those with only short periods of time available as one can simple add a pair of strips, leave them clamped and then take a break. But, other than the sanding and fairing, strip cedar construction is an enjoyable and rewarding experience. It's called Kiri (or Paulownia)) and comes from China, with initial exports presently going to Australia.
As far as a comparison between Northern (or Eastern) white cedar and Western red cedar, it seems to depend on where you come from and what you're selling!—with the east claiming that Northern white cedar lasts longer than red cedar, while the west claim that their red cedar is stronger and more durable.
You may find 'some' northern white cedar even heavier and stronger than 'some' western red cedar—though the reverse is more typical.
As it's still in use today, we need to take a look at just why that is, examine its performance—where it works and, where it doesn't. This is achieved by bonding a scrim over the whole panel, but not bonding all the balsa pieces to each other.
For example, one test 'proves without a doubt' that there's no transfer of water laterally through the cell walls. In this case they are generally bonded to each other and temporarily held in place with wooden tooth picks until the strip adhesive has cured sufficiently. I've had the strongback for a modified dinghy from their plans for building a duck hunting scull boat(very modified) done for years and put away. Was using cypress and crap pine which warps really easy but with the saw set up the saw didn't care. Basically you need a plan to start with and the kayak foundry software is a great place to start. It wouldn't have taken so long except that along the way I took time to recover from surgery to fuse three vertebrae in my neck, and teach grad school five terms in a row. It is designed to make submitting notices of alleged infringement to us as straightforward as possible while reducing the number of notices that we receive that are fraudulent or difficult to understand or verify. Accordingly, if you are not sure whether material infringes your copyright, we suggest that you first contact an attorney. However, the system is quite labor intensive and therefore best for one-off efforts and the completed boat generally somewhat heavier than competing systems that use a lighter core. The long abutting edges of the strips can either be square or can be pre-machined (typically by a bench-mounted router) with a rounded bead on one side and a matching cove in the other. If using staples, one should staple through a length of tape or packing strap, so that pulling on this tape later will greatly assist in removing these staples after the joint glue is hard. Holes are filled, the surface sanded smooth and fair and then vacuumed clean of all dust prior to applying two coats of epoxy to seal the bare wood.

It will take between 100 and 200 hours for an amateur to complete a small boat but considerably more for a larger multihull. You can probably save about 30% on hull material cost by making your own strips, but if they are not made well, you can take a LOT more hours to fit and fair them so each builder needs to carefully and honestly evaluate their personal abilities.
For sure, red cedar is a much taller tree, so it's easier to get knot-free wood, but the sought-after red beauty of the wood does makes it more expensive.
Once solid, now imagine slicing them up from one end to make slabs that look like kitchen cutting boards except that the slices might be only ½" thick. But coupled with a substantial fibreglass skin, this boat was heavier than Dick would have liked, though certainly built more resistant to water penetration than 'the average' balsa core boat. This product called ContourKore, has been used for 1000s of monohulls over the years, including the famous J-24s starting back in 1978.
Fine—but when the bond to the skin breaks down, the water can readily spread to wherever it wants and soon soaks the whole area.
If you have deck areas or topsides that have virtually no through-skin penetrations, then balsa can serve well. I probably need to get to it before I get to the "bucket list stage." I helped on one once and had the true joy of the feel of a good handplane coving the strips both before and after laying up. If clamps, have you developed or seen a good clamping system for them?I have seen a few completed canoes.
To download kayak foundry free click this link Once you have all your patterns printed up you will tape each section together, the instructions on how to do that are in the program. The form of notice specified below is consistent with the DMCA, which can be found at the U.S. Sometimes the stem is made up of laminations that are clamped in place to part of the building frame.
By using a cove and bead strip, adjacent strips will stay aligned better while the glue hardens. Fiberglass cloth (typically a 6oz cloth for small boats but often a heavier bi-axial cloth for larger ones) is then laid on and epoxy worked through it until it is quite clear and transparent. As for all hull construction methods, regardless of the time taken, this part of the building is STILL a small part of the total so even if this system took TWICE as long as another, the additional percentage overall would be closer to 20%. For now the early feedback from Australia is good, as over there this wood is generally less expensive than their imported red cedar. If we lay these on the floor, we'd now have slabs that are more like a 20" square cork mat.
Once wet, the structure then collapses under load and the whole area stays wet and rots, until it's opened up and replaced. It has produced thousands of relatively light, rigid, well performing boats—but boats whose lifespan is limited to how long water is kept out of the core. On that one we had great material and used a tablesaw with cobbled very long infeed and outfeed to rip raw strips. Sorry for the darkness of the pictures, it was late when I took them and I haven't had a chance to take new ones yet. Once cured, the work of fairing will continue and this is where the strip cedar system gets pretty labor intensive and raising lots of dust.
Its estimated 15-20% lower strength will rarely be a problem as a core material, except that in areas of high compression, it might be prudent to use a denser wood, rather as you would with a foam core. However they are quite small and less likely to fall out than the larger ones of the red species.
If we stand on them, we are now standing on the end of what is now vertical grain and it's in THIS direction, that dry balsa can perform so admirably.
This certainly has helped to exclude moisture, and also keep in mind that most J-24s are dry sailed—not left afloat.
Some of their test result graphs show balsa results far off the graph, whereas other materials are struggling to survive! Very rewarding until you get to the fibreglassing part-smelly, burny and itchy.My scull boat adventure was inspired by owning two of Ralph Thomson's(Clinton, Iowa) "Big Pool" 16 foot scullers-the first custom built for me with two bung holes for the oar-I am a leftie and had hopes of teaching a few companions to scull. If our 'mats' are now all joined together, we'll have 'a sheet of end-grain balsa' and that's what is sold in various forms and thickness, to be used as core material in fiberglass boats. In fact, that's not the way things have developed and we now see a resurgence of 'old' foams such as the semi-flexible PVC along with slightly more rigid SAN foams like Corecell doing very well despite the wealth of literature from balsa suppliers that shows these products as inferior. In way of all through attachments, it's best to replace balsa core with something more solid and more water resistant as typically, that is where the problems begin.
The scull boat is the closest to the market days experience in waterfowl hunting available today. A guy in Montana makes very beautiful canoes and puts one in the store at Glacier Park every year. This is especially true when combined with the super thin skins resulting from the use of carbon fiber etc.
Sand the form smooth to the line.Install the forms onto a stiff back described in the kayak foundry and make sure that each section is marked with the right positions. Of course, then there is the challenge of making that 12 foot specially curved ash oar-another art in itself.
You may want to layout the stiff back prior to installing sections, mark the sheer line and center line on the forms(this is important).
In the program you will have the option of how far you would like to space your sections, I would space them 12"-16" that will give you a nice shape and cut down on the clamps and strapping.Next step would be to find cedar boards, go to your local lumber yards. If you decide to use different kinds of wood, keep in mind when you go to sand the boat out the harder wood will not sand down as fast leaving a slight hump.
The only difference is you will have to cut the end of the strip with the coping saw to fit against the other strip at the ends. Glue coresponding strips at the bow and stern of the boat.Before you get to far along, fare (look down the boat at the strips to make sure you have a nice smooth strip with no dips or humps.

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