How to design a tunnel hull boat good,craigslist destin florida boats for sale,used boats in fenton michigan obituary - You Shoud Know

Published 11.04.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Sailboat Drawings

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As far as the laminating the plywood, I read that on someone else s build thread that a major boat builder puts a layer of glass between the wood layers on their cold molded boats. As far as reinventing the wheel, the Fastcat, Liberator bass, and tallon flats boats are all cool and all but my nature has been to build what I want sense i was a kid.
Also - in the total scope of this project, the marking & cutting out of panels is by far not the most difficult or time consuming, so i wouldn't consider the CNC router to be a huge step up vs.
Jim and I talked about getting the balance between the life of the padded surfaces and the aerodynamic life produced by the wing.
As far as the CNC router helping out, It will help a lot with how the finished design will be built. I have been getting all my ducks in a row to consult with Jim (aeromarineresearch) on do's and dont's when it comes to modifications to the liberator tunnel design.
I was going to buy that talon mold and hull but long story short, I chose not to do so for various reasons. Pretty much have the hull laid out how I want and next i will start on the top deck and bulkheads. I just ordered the Tunnel Hull Design software from Jim I figure its better to work out any bugs or ill traits before they are built into the real boat. I did some rough figuring on materials needed and I came up with the following which I rounded up a good percentage. I was reading that a new Liberator hull is 1400lbs fresh out of the molds so if I can build my boat with all the interior storage compartments at around 1300lbs I will be happy. This is my rough figures which would make it lighter than a standard build liberator 21 sport boat. Location: goldcoast hahah yeah i might just build the extension for the outboards for the moment.
Location: goldcoast but a mono hull at the bow and a tunnel hull come stern??
Location: Australia The boat I built looked eerily similar, looking from behind the stern, as yours, it had one outboard centrally mounted behind a nacelle in the tunnel, the cav plate about half way between the roof of the tunnel and the bottom of it. Location: Australia I can't speak to the motives of the designer of your curiosity-piece, but my intent was to create a vessel with the kind of ride quality and resting stability of a cat, without the need for twin engines. Originally Posted by tunnels One thing to remember is this is a very high performance boat so being stiff and this is important !! If you use epoxy (not Polyester resin) with the fibreglass, for both sides of the plywood - total encapsulation - you get superior rigidity with a big increase in strength, and no plywood rotting problems. Location: Spain It appears that what for some is the perfect solution for others is nonsense. Originally Posted by TANSL It appears that what for some is the perfect solution for others is nonsense. If you use Epoxy resin, which IS waterproof - and totally encapsulate the plywood ( inside and out) , no water can get to the plywood, and it will stay intact. Location: Coastal Georgia I guess at 90 mph you would want to be sure that more lift is what you want. Originally Posted by rwatson If you apply fibreglass to the outside - the plywood is not waterproofed from inside. The bilge of these boats is simply treated (after the proper cleaning, sanding and drying) with several layers of primer (like UCP by International) followed by layers of the grey resin-based varnish for bilges (like Danboline). I suspect that many problems related to the total (inside+outside) encapsulation of the wooden hulls arise from the non-respect of one fundamental rule in the wooden boat construction - the use of properly dried wood. The same is valid for the works of restoration of existing wooden hulls, where it is necessary to dry the hull to the proper moisture content (10-12%) prior to varnishing (or encapsulating it, if really necessary - but I wouldn't do it in this case). Location: Spain Thanks daiquiri and michael, I am now able to understand things and I think I can reiterate what I said previously, a job well done, encapsulated or not, does not have to give any problem. Your comments explain, at least so it seems to me, why two of our best experts in this forum could have such different opinions. Originally Posted by TANSL I think I can reiterate what I said previously, a job well done, encapsulated or not, does not have to give any problem.
Some woods bond better than then some others with the epoxy, and that can be one of important reasons why you will hear differing opinions (even between experienced boatbuilders) about hull encapsulation.
Cheers daiquiri View Public Profile View daiquiri's Gallery Find all posts by daiquiri Page 1 of 2 1 2 > « Has this been tried? Location: Sweden We studied pads on a 4 m asymmetric cat with similar proportions to your hull.
Course instability in planing, asymmetric catamarans often occur due to too low trim (too much lift aft) and absence of even the slightest keel or fin lateral area aft. I recently bought the moulds from a procrastinator who left this sitting in his yard for a few years.
The only thing that strikes me is the potential for turbulent water flow at the leading edge of the tunnel. Location: Canada firth_andrew007 - if this is a planing tunnel hull, then you may find some help on my website. I'm not sure that the reduced buoyancy from the tunnel is worth the reduced wetted surface.
It will be a question of whether your AoA is reduced sufficiently at speed to negate the loss of buoyancy at the stern. Location: Coastal Georgia You might have to vent the tunnel to break the suction.
I have been dreaming about building my own boat for a while now and the design process has started. On a different note, where did you get your supplies and do you have any tips on which products work best. Several guys around here (BlueRudy for one) had those style boats back in the day and I always liked them. Walley, I agree that there is a ton to learn about building with wood and I have been cruising those sites you listed for seems like years now.


I have been talking with Jim from Aeromarine research (tunnel hull expert) and he is going to help me make sure that any changes i make to the hull are sorted out before the build starts. The 30ft Cobra cc can only hit 100 with trips or a pair of worked 300's, the same guy that built the pickle fork Cobra's (30, 31 and 36ft) also built a bass boat. Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world.
I understand that without a thicker core there is little gain in strength other then puncture resistance which is a minor concern. There is no way to have the boat balanced at all speeds so i will just have to design around the desired speed. It will be a self jigging interlocking design that is built on a level surface should result in a very accurate hull.
That Talon hull and mold has been for sale for going on 2 years now and when i first saw it, that is when my plans leaned towards building my own boat.
It will be good to get familiar with the build procedure as well as provide motivation to get started on the real thing. My only problem is i want to start cutting some wood and I am going to have to wait until my design is where it needs to be.
That worked OK, don't worry that the forward part of the hull will interfere with water flow, the level just rises to meet the prop. I'd say it met those criteria, but I was never happy with the tracking in an arc between beam and stern quartering. Should I use thicker plywood without stringers on the padded surfaces of this design or, should I use stringers and thinner plywood? I can understand a flexible hull being ideal to a point but, the bottom of this boat (padded running surfaces) needs to retain a very straight and smooth surface over the life of the boat. The inner layer of fibreglass will also contribute greatly to the strength of the structure.
Search for the words 'encapsulate' and 'epoxy' in this forum, and you will be inundated by the amount of information about it, especially if you use PAR as the writer. Sure, these boats are precious and are hence hauled out and stored in a dry place after every use - a kind of treatment many small boats don't enjoy. The wood (either solid or ply) used for boat building shall have the moisture content of around 10-12% in order to assure the proper mechanical resistance, flexibility and resistance to rotting. If this simple rule is respected, and the bilge is properly ventilated and kept dry, the wood doesn't need fiberglass cloth inside, unless there are structural reasons for doing it, like Michael has noted. People don't like that part associated to the ownership of a boat, that is one of main reasons why plastics has been so successful in replacing it for general boating. Teak and white oak are two examples of commonly used woods which are more difficult to bond with epoxy than the others.
I purchased a liberator 21 to cut up for this project but a friend of mine talked me out of it. I have yet to add the center pod as I have yet to get all the detailed measurements for that part yet. A few months ago I would have never been open to building a boat from wood but, after research and the truth wood is a great choice. I spend a few hours a few day ago going through your build thread and learned a lot about working with wood covered in fiberglass and epoxy. The only drawbacks I can figure are that these boats will be loud as in have tunnel slap when at rest from water slapping the tunnel and, the load capacity of such a boat will not be as great as a V hull of like size. Sometimes ideas can be developed by seeing what others have done so post away pictures of info if you like. I would check out the Glen-L, woodenboat, or bateau forums to get some ideas on boat building and cold molding over plywood. What changed is that I sold my Backcountry proguide last month which I hated to do but my desire to build my own boat was over ruling.
One good thing about my proposed design is the deck which is going to be a huge increase of lift due to the air foiled shape I plan to go with. If you look at the modern inboard tunnel jets ( Phantom sport jon, Seaark predator, Harbercraft extreme shallow ) you will notice some major differences.
I agree this is a heck of a big project and I have a good understanding on the balancing act that must be sorted act with such a design. I think I could possibly work with a thicker wood as most of the bending parts are not very wide. The fast cat looks to fat and the liberator looks like a hacked out standard liberator with decks and the talon is cool but rare and as with all these boats cost a butt load. At the stage I am at now, It is best to make any aerodynamic or hydrodynamic changes that may improve the design or, maybe Jim will suggest that the liberator design is spot on and the details can be sorted out with minor changes to weight distribution. I could very easily build a mold for the design I am working on but, being a core material is needed on such a boat anyhow, why not build it completely out of good quality light weight Marine plywood and cut back on the glass thickness and have a stronger lighter boat.
It did have some handling peculiarities inasmuch as it tended to jink around a bit in beam seas, but ride and stability were good. My boat was considerably deeper forward than yours, but a differently proportioned thing altogether, not long and skinny. I do not want to bottom to become wavy over time which may be more likely with thinner plywood over stringers.
But the fact that so many Riva boats have more than 40-50 years of service and are still in a shiny condition shows that with a proper care of the hull the encapsulation with fiberglass is unnecessary.
And, of course, some layers used to seal the wood need not add appreciable resistance to the hull. The answer to the problem of wooden boat maintenance was the invention of various methods of encapsulation of wood with resins, (with or without reinforcing it with the glass). So few unsuccessful (because not properly done) encapsulations of structures made of these species can create a bad reputation to the whole method, even where it would be perfectly indicated. The reason we found was that the transverse flow into the tunnel increased, resulting in an unstable wetting of the aft tunnel sides. Many of them are very knowledgeable, have decades of experience, and are generous enough to lend sound advice.


I am abandoning cutting up and reconstruction of the liberator in favor of a new designed based of the liberator bottom specs. This 3d model is a rush job and rough around the edges but it helped me get a visual of what I want to build. One advantage that I have is a good friend right next door to my shop with a huge 5x10 CNC router and nearly every single part besides stringers I will have CNC cut. I just finished taking measurements for the center pod so Maybe I will have that part modeled later tonight. Other than that I can not think of anything else that would cause this kind of design from being a great fishing vessel.
That does pose a issue with the balance of the lift generated by the pad area with the flying wing part but, i will get it sorted out correctly for the best possible performance which I hope is fast.
You may want to have a look at the Glen-l builders forum as there is an archived discussion regarding pwc powered boats. I talked to Jim at Aeromarine for a good while today and although i was heading the right way i knew there would be a few other areas to address.
I get a lot of enjoyment out of the design and build phase and it almost outweighs the joys of getting on the water and fishing. There is no perfect setup so i will just need to make sure the design will work well in a set range and thats it. There are very few parts that have to be cut or trimmed with a knife or sandpaper to build one of my design.
I have yet to figure weight per using wood as a core material vs wooden hull glassed inside and out, but, from all i have read the later is stronger and lighter.
First off the bottom is designed using Liberator 21 specs or very close with no major changes as of yet. I would think the thicker the core material the more ridged the panel but stringers and thinner wood may create nearly the same strength.
This boat should be capable of 100mph (with correct setup) yet, I will be pleased if I reach low 90s with the power I plan to use. If the inside is well ventilated, that will help keep the unprotected plywood drier, but it will not last. It might be a correct approach on some constructions and for some construction methods, but it is certainly not a holy grail of woodworking. The boat yawed and heeled slightly until the flow along one tunnel side or the other was stable. I flipped the liberator over and took detailed measurements and got starting in cad producing a model. I will have a complete cut file with everything from transom, bulkheads, to interior panels all ready to send the the CNC.
After I get my drawing done I will laser cut some templates for various locations on the hull to verify that my drawings are the same as the liberator hull. I myself do not carry huge heavy loads and to be honest who needs 100lbs of fishing gear while in the bay fishing for trout and reds? The boat will be a wooden liberator bottom which I do not plane to change unless Jim advises me to do so. All the parts tab together and self jigging while all the sheeting is cut to the perfect shape. The reason boats are not built this way is it takes more work where as a new fiberglass hull can be made in a day.
I think they would enjoy the process of building something then being able to get in that something and drive it. To be realistic, the boat that I am basing my design on is a 105mph boat with a 300xs and my design should be lighter with the nice smooth top deck which would be more aerodynamic.
I am working on getting it how I want before starting to slice it up into the parts that will make up the design.
I can understand boats that are loaded down with live bait in the live well but, I have never fished with live bait as i enjoy artificial more. We talked about the deck shape increasing aerodynamic lift which i knew would have to be addressed and it could be a very good change or it could cause some issues. Maybe new products create a lighter completely composite hull but then you are looking at having to open the wallet more. In theory my boat could be faster due to greater lift ablity with the top deck design on top of the lighter weight hull. I will be sending Jim all the measurements from the liberator hull as well as the measurements for my proposed build. I can still go either way with this build, I am still in the design stage of getting the boat dimensions as I desire for the performance i hope to achieve. Any one care to share their thoughts on what glass to use and what kind of scheduled to go with? I will have Aeromarine Researches software here soon to start my analysis of my design so maybe I will be pleased with the calculated results. Just vent bilges really well to prevent premature failure of wood If you only layup the outside of the plywood, you lose a lot of strength and rigidity, and leave the plywood sitting in water - and it will rot.
The design will be all tab and lock style which I have been utilizing for the past 13 years designing RC model airplanes. We can fish off an enormous deck, then we can go 90+ mph on the lake with a stability no V hull can match. This week we will look more closely at the third part of the picture - the Dynamic Force Balances. I know the details are key for a good performing hull design and I plan get those details as sorted out as possible. Whatever the case I am looking forward to the project no matter how much trouble it ends up being to get it right.



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Comments to «How to design a tunnel hull boat good»

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