How to install plywood floor in boat,charter boat sunrise destin fl vrbo,boat cover repair mound mn utilities,boat rental maple lake mn 2014 - Good Point

Published 07.02.2014 | Author : admin | Category : Wooden Skiff Plans

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After the floors dry and the molding put on and painted (if needed) you can bring your stuff back in and your done.
Nails, I think screws would have split up the plywood (it was really thin plywood) and they would have also taken forever. I know I'm way late to this party, but I was wondering since you can cut them into strips making them look similar to the expensive hardwood flooring, could you even stain it? I noticed that you said that you used finishing nails to secure the plywood sheets to the sub-floor. The nail pattern I used mimics the pattern that wold have been used if the floors were traditional strip flooring. Please Select Username to appear on public areas of the site like community and recipe comments. If you love solid wood floors and your home rests on a concrete slab, you're not out of luck.
Also, be absolutely sure that the concrete doesn't get damp because of exterior water problems. Lay 6-mil polyethylene sheeting over the concrete to minimize moisture migration from the concrete up into the wood flooring. As for the top floor, I've had better luck from conversations with my customers via nails (or crown staples) versus cleats. After comparing all of our cost options we are probably going to use Elastion after all on the main floor.
Since nothing is below grade, you are actually more flexible in your choices for your bamboo floor. If you use a urethane-based glue, this actually gives you a moisture barrier and the adhesion needed to bond it to the concrete. Shown and linked below, the Bostik SuperGrip acts as a moisture barrier, sound reduction membrane AND adhesive. In either case, sealing the concrete floor can be done right away once the moisture is low enough. As for the upper floor, it really is up to you if you want to use glue, nails, or floor staples. I personally wouldn't recommend to install plywood directly over concrete for your engineered floor. The best wood-based foundation over concrete for glue, nail, or even floating systems would be to create floor members via studs under plywood. The materials in the diagram above are really the best bet if you still want to use wood as a substrate to go between the concrete and your bamboo. Since your bamboo is engineered, and if it can be glued down, you can also use a fairly new product called Elastilon. Share the love!3.7k154k23As many of you know, it was just two short weeks ago that we opened the doors to the Picklee shop in Newport, RI! With (lots of) help from the guys at HD, I loaded up my cart with the plywood sheets.  I needed 14 sheets since I would be covering an area of just under 450 square feet.
Here’s a photo of the floors inside the Picklee on Spring shop, 4 months after the install!  They are holding up wonderfully and we receive compliments daily! Alison, we’ve had it in our shop for just a few months now and we’ve been dragging, dropping and sliding things across it with no issues at all!
The strength and hardness of the wood obviously has a lot to do with how well it will stand up to use and even a little abuse. This past summer, I finished off the flooring in this house with two rooms and a hallway covered with cherry-stained birch. I saw another post on Pinterest yesterday and they used wood filler which you can get at your local home Depot or Lowe’s. Our floor has aged beautifully (it helps to have 8 children to break it in) I need to post more recent photos of it. I’ll upload a few shots of the inside of our shop tomorrow so you can see the finished look. You would need something to adhere the plywood to, so I would say you should add something underneath. Hope this helps…Sandy at Paint me White blog is a fabulous painter of many things and she does her concrete floors white. While preparing to lay 1100 square feet of hardwood flooring, we discovered significant variation in the OSB subfloor that will serve as the nailing surface for the hardwoods. Before we pulled up the previous flooring surfaces (carpet and vinyl), we knew there were some spots on the subfloor with significant peaks and valleys.
Also, every piece of dimensional lumber has a natural crown to it (the direction it bows along the long edge of the wood).
If you’re dealing with a swelled OSB situation, we think the best course of action is to use a belt sander to grind down the swelled edge. Searching around the internet for solutions, we eventually landed on this article from Ask the Builder that suggests using construction felt and asphalt roofing shingles to level an uneven plywood or OSB floor for hardwood installation. Before getting into all the details of the leveling job, I should say there are other options for leveling a floor. String and nails – for pulling a string above the floor both before and after the installation to get floor-wide perspective on the problem.
Utility knife with roofing blade (2 knives are nice if you’re working with two people).
Preparation: Ensure the subfloor is clear, clean, and free of debris, with plenty of space to work. If you picture the floor as a topographical map, the idea is to try to fill in the low spots, which may require overlapping some shingles to get to the right depth, and will certainly require cuts… especially since you are always leveling in two dimensions. Step 5: Continue moving out from the first piece of plywood, continually leveling and re-evaluating extended areas of the floor.
In general, plywood does not add strength to a floor, except that it can help distribute the load from the center of a floor to the edges and to nearby joists, which tends to increase strength a bit.


Subscribe and never miss an article!Free articles delivered conveniently to your inbox(and no spam, we promise)Enjoy this? Robin, as it turns out one of the last areas of the floor near our garage entrance door just couldn’t be done with shingles due to the configuration. I see no reason why you can’t do them at the same time, and it might be better for the surface of the floor. This was very informative however, I want to put a laminate floor in my finished attic that is about 12×15 square feet.
My question to you is..Once the floor is finished, do the shingles leave a smell of tar in the house? We used 90# roll roofing instead of shingle tabs and have been completed for over 2 months with new Hardwood installed over it (in the heat of the summer….No smell whatsoever!
Ive read on a government site that heated tar (very hot) will send out fumes and is a danger for workers.
I have a large, rectangular room with a short hallway connected and in the middle of the 24 feet length of the room; I have about ?” out of level and about the same in the hallway.
My home was built in 1980, and due to poor water drainage over the years the foundation and piers settled quite a lot. So, for anyone surfing the web for answers on how to level (or flatten) your floors, for what it’s worth, this is what I did. As for the plywood direction, we staggered all the joints but continued to run it perpendicular to the joists.
I will definitely keep this article in mind when the time finally comes to redo the floor in my kitchen. There was a small strip on one side of one wall that required me to cut lengths of plywood (about 4 in" wide stops of 8').
Our plan is to cover it with a more permanent flooring this year, but if we can't, it will still look good next year.
The darker hardwood is more expensive so I figured unless that would somehow conflict with the sealer? Did you use any particular pattern when securing the plywood to the sub-floor, and did you countersink and fill each nail head? The nails blend right in to the flooring and when you do see them it's not at all jarring to the eye.
The thin plywood we got was only sold in the 5mm thickness (hence the metric measurement instead of something more standard).
The staples have two fasteners instead of one cleat, giving you double the strength of fastening. Most people aren't aware that if you are very careful, you can glue AND use a fastener together to ensure the floor stays down. A The 1st floor is on a concrete slab foundation that's about 8-inches above ground level.
4 MIL or thicker plastic works great for a vapor barrier and exterior grade plywood is really your best bet if you wish to do this type of setup.
Use a single type of wood for a standard look or use particle board for a more patterned look. That’s what the guys at Home Depot thought too…just wait until I march back in and show them this! Simply divide the total sqaure footage of your space by 32 to figure out home many sheets you’ll need.
We’ve done it again!  Check out our latest painted plywood floor in our new home office! I accidentally dropped a tool onto a floor that had been coated with Bona more than 15 years previous, and while the floor did dent, the coating formed itself perfectly to the new shape with no cracking or breaking at all. That it was a fraction of the cost of even laminate, and way, way funkier makes it something I really want to try!
I am about to move from home-based to commercial pet grooming and I would love to do this but theres a concrete slab under the current ugly carpet.
I am wanting to do this in a retail space we just acquired and there is thick vinyl tile down on the floor now, ontop of concrete.
The joists run from the front of the house to a steel I-beam in the middle of the house, and then from that I-beam to the back wall. Sometimes, you’ll find OSB swelling at the joists where moisture contacted the subfloor.
For instance, we could have pulled up the OSB, shimmed the joists underneath, and refastened the OSB to the shimmed joists. We did this two ways, first by dragging our 8 foot level across the floor to try to determine where the high and low spots were in local areas, and then by stretching a string across the whole floor, secured by a nail on each end. You can picture that if you were filling a perfectly round depression, you would probably start in the very middle and work your way out, layering shingles until you get a perfectly flat surface. If you are at all concerned, it is wise to consult with a structural engineer before trying this in your own home. We thought of that too – seems like something like dense closed cell foam should be an option. I have been trying to figure out what I was going to with my plywood subfloor that runs downhill after a joist.
If you get a chance, please share the article on Facebook or Google Plus if you have an account! For example, the worst areas on the first level were as low as one inch near interior bearing walls. Shingles would still be needed, but I could have gotten away with fewer, resulting in less time and weight. I know I have a slope in the floor due to settling but there are also soft spots under the existing layers of vinyl flooring as well.
At 100 years ago, you probably have hardwood or softwood slats running perpendicular to the joists, rather than plywood. I used a lot of nails as I wanted it to be solidly affixed and I did not want to have to wait for the glue to dry to lay down more sheets.


I really liked the bamboo flooring I saw when I was doing research but in the end I went for the cheapest solution(or next to cheapest solution as the cheapest would have been simply sealing and painting the subfloor). If I was not on a tight budget and under tight time contraints I might have done just that. It is plywood, but it has a very slight raised plastic bottom, allowing air flow and proper movement for your floor. One that flooring carries is called RedGard and works for waterproofing as well as preventing cracks in the slab. A urethane-based glue tends to work well, but it is more labor intensive due to clean-up and small work area. Knowing what the manufacturer of your bamboo states for install will determine if it can be glued or nailed down. By using a bigger size tile, or laying down the plywood sheets whole, you’re less likely to have warping and an uneven floor. Would you please post a picture of your wood floors with your furniture put back in the room. Also, how do you figure out how many pieces of wood you need by the square footage of a room? If the piece is rotted or just beyond reasonable repair, the best course of action is replacement.
We put a screw in approximately every one foot square, which means approximately 1100 screws on this floor. This would have the advantage of not putting any additional load on the subfloor, and addressing the cause of the problem directly at the root. We opted against this solution on the first floor because most self levelers aren’t rated for installation over OSB, and because they are expensive and messy. A comprehensive post on that will be up next week, and we’ll certainly link these two posts back-and-forth. One inch of shingles is a lot of shingles, and my floors were off in more than one direction in some areas, so the upper layers of shingles were often cut at angles to match the slope. The floor slopes slightly in front on the doors now, but it is completely unrecognizable without a level.
All anyone can see is beautiful, prefinished, hardwood floors, with no clue to what is under the floor or the hard work that went into getting it done.
I’m thinking this may very well come in handy since most older homes have uneven floors from the home settling. They make a solid link with the floor below, allowing the sound to travel right through them. You may have some repair to do when you pull up that vinyl, just to make sure the house is ready for the next surface floor. You dont need to use any wood filler between the gaps because you will be then put down the polyurethane. What kind of filler material did you use, and did you use standard nails or a pnumatic nailer? If going the 2×4 route then you could also add insulation to the bays saving on your heating bill since concrete slabs do not hold heat.
The level is sitting on the crown peaks, with the same measure in a depression between them.
We did have to replace one piece of OSB due to wood rot where a persistent leak existed, but the rest of the floor was in pristine condition.
Our primary motivation was speed and less mess, and so far after walking on the floor, we’re happy with the result. I can see where it meets up with the kitchen where they had redone recently and they had to build it up to level it also. There was no damage to any of the support structure or plywood, just sunken floors due to settling.
The drainage problem under the house was corrected, mildew killed and all new insulation installed in the crawl space.
The drywall, interior doors and frames were cut off at the bottom in every room, the base boards were removed and put back with shoe molding, and the water heater and kitchen cabinets were removed and replaced with new. In addition, I had to remove the sweep from one door and mount a rubber sweep on the threshold to take up the space and make it air tight. The polyurethane gets into the cracks and, as its liquid, rises to its own level, fills in the gaps and coats the entire floor, sealing it and protecting it (hope that makes sense). A I intend to install the bamboo on both floors throughout and both are above grade, preferably doing the work myself (without a contractor). Effectively, the asphalt shingles in our solution are a rigid leveler that we think works as well as any liquid self leveler would have, and they are easier to control. I think the shingles will be the best option here my one question is should I nail the shingles down before installing the flooring. A I'm trying to find out the best way to get my floors installed and have them look great and last forever. A The concrete slab failed a moisture test which prevents me from installing the bamboo without a moisture barrier.A Second, there are portions of the ceiling that are already pretty low on the slab level.
My thinking was that screws would be overkill, take longer, and might split up the plywood (its very thin plywood). My dad, who is a carpenter with lots of years of experience is skeptical as to how well this flooring will hold up.
We think the most weight that would be placed across a single joist with the shingles is about 15-25 lbs along the span, or about 3-4 lbs. A Would that mean just using a standard vapor barrier before nailing down the plywood subfloor?



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