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Published 29.07.2014 | Author : admin | Category : Wood Boat Plans

Location: USA You want the depth (height) of the tunnel to be no more than three inches.
Adding a jackplate will also get you some additional height on the jet foot, even without modifying the boat hull. I can go through water that won't float a canoe, but I have to be loaded fairly light to show off my skinny-water fly bys. A hydraulic jack plate would let you lower the motor to reduce cavitation in choppy waters, but would add some weight. Also, my parts contact said some guys use UHMW polyethelene to make the wings on the foot intake. Location: Arkansas jet tunnel Hi i'm thinking about modifiying my jon like the one you showed in the pictures. The boat works quite well the way the photos show, but you have to think about the weight all the time.
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We are thinking of using a shorter driveline and engine package from another company and it would in turn move the pump nozzle about another 8 inches towards the bow.

It appears that as the center of lift moves backwards as the speed increases, that when the higher pressure stagnation line gets close to the intake, the hull loses lift as the water moves into the intake and the bow of the boat dives hard into the water.
I have ridden in a 20foot aluminum jet, 18 degree mono ,454 stroked, twin turbo'd, intercooled, at around 75 mph, the boat seemed to lose lift and the bow dove downward violently, skewed about several times until it stopped.
Location: Florida barry, shoot me a pm with your email and I will forward what we have for you. Location: Sweden From the jet propulsive efficiency point of view, the inlet should be as far back as possible. If there is a bottom surface aft of the inlet lip, then there must be a new boundary layer created, which takes energy from the flow, ie the drag is increasing.
In addition to this, the further back the working fluid is taken, the less aerated it will be.
In theory we are thinking that the fact there is now some hull past the end of the jet exit will help keep the bow down (probably slow some mph but the boat we can afford that) and make the boat more controllable.
Location: Duluth, Minnesota Im not sure i understand why you are mounting it so far forward, I don't have any experience in this area but I just bought a 13ft Sea doo jet rib today so im curious to learn more about them. Originally Posted by Steve W Im not sure i understand why you are mounting it so far forward, I don't have any experience in this area but I just bought a 13ft Sea doo jet rib today so im curious to learn more about them.
Porpoising occurs on flat water when the center of lift gets very close to the center of the dynamic center of gravity. As the speed of the boat increases, the center of lift moves rearward, if it goes beyond the center of dynamic gravity, the bow will move downward, as the bow moves downward, the center of lift moves forward (more lift due to the increase in wetted surface) pushing the bow up, then the center of lift moves behind the center of gravity, and the bow drops again and so the cycle continues. So the area around the stagnation line creates more lift per square inch than say than the area around the transom.
In a jet, if the intake is far forward, and the stagnation line moves into the area of the intake, this lift pressure will drop as the water moves into the intake, causing the bow to drop. Certainly, for an outboard powered boat, increasing the length of the boat, will reduce porpoising, ( for a given speed) which you have done, I would be concerned that losing the lift around the intake might produce some unwanted characteristics. On past models I have done (without) tubesets on them the pump exit has been very far aft however the boat tended to bounce. The third video lacks the 200 pound live ballast moving the center of lift sternward plus your changes to inhibit porpoising.
With the smaller intake, the velocity into the intake will be higher, ie flow rate equals area times velocity, so if you drop the cross sectional area the intake velocity increases ( or speed if you assume the direction of the water is at 90 degrees to the cross section) . The impellor attack angle of the jets vanes ( as well as the trailing edge angle) will have been designed to operate efficiently with a given range of inlet speeds.
This could work in your favor as it would lower thrust and speed, something that you might want.
We can actually change the rpm and power band in this engine ecu once we put her on the water to test. Planing Foil: (Cavitation Plate) Like all planing devices that bolt to the cavitation plate of an outboard engine?s gear case, the Allison Planing Foil will help. I have just gotten a similar year 16 ft alumaweld sled that I am looking to put a tunnel is as well. The water goes up and down with the weather and lot of thought has gone into the problem up here.
I can keep it just on step without too much air problems if I keep speed down in waves and serious ripples.
Have you installed fins on the jet intake or done other mods that helped the boat run better.

Vessels up to 34m (100ft) in length can be built completely inside under heated environmentally controlled conditions, while larger vessels are built in sub-sections and assembled outside within the shipyard . Currently the old (outdated) jet nozzle ends up about 4 inches inside the transom at its farthest point back and has plenty of room to send the thrust from port to starboard.
The more of the available bottom boundary layer that can be ingested, the better, since this part of the flow includes part of the dynamic energy that has been converted to pressure. It is also deeper in the water, which means that it is working at a slightly higher static pressure, which is good for cavitation performance. I am hoping we found a happy medium from where our old pump used to be to where the new pump will be. How do you get the boat certified as I thought that the maximum horsepower rating of a boat relates to width, freeboard, length and probably a few other parameters. She will be powered with 70hp and 90hp power plants depending on our fuel mapping when we are done. I am thinking we can probably get her dialed in pretty well once we see what the stock set up rides like. We have a feeling the boat will skid a bit in turns so we will have to work on a small keel system or two I think.
Certification as you discussed only applies to outboard motors in terms of LOA, WIdth formula etc.
I wonder if an impeller or sleeve or any other parts could be manufactured out of plastic or composite?
With the pump removed in the demo hull you can see from the photos it seems pretty far forward. We have also added a few degrees of downward hook at the end of the hull to help with this. I hit much fewer rocks this way, and I suck alot less gravel when trying to get around in shallow bars.
It seems that a lot of our big boat jet tender practices don't seem to apply to stuff this small as they all behave much different. We have done a few others in the past that once we fixed the porpoising issue with a 110hp Yamaha and an extended trim plate the boats ran 55mph easily. Unfortunately in small boat like this we only have so much interior and under deck space to work with and lots of rigging in the driveline so without redesigning from scratch this is what we came up with. Also the reverse gate is removed and that adds another 3 to 4 inches in length to the total drive line. When building these in the past on other models some with and some without inflatable collars and tubes we have had porpoising problems resulting in having large hp to weigh ratio on small 10 and 11 jet tenders. The gate directs the water under the boat to either port or starboard rather than directly port or starboard like some others do so it should not thrust directly into the pump housing. And that falls shorter than the older kind so unless we want our engine housing starting at your feet and taking up room inside the transom we have to go this route.
We are hoping this boat comes in around 35-42mph once its all said and done given the power plant.
We have had to counter react that with an extended skid plate underneath that in turn hinders the reverse on the boat.

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