Jon boat conversion project documentation,plans on how to build a wooden boat names,boat storage clackamas oregon,boat building school rockland maine usa - Test Out

Published 14.11.2014 | Author : admin | Category : Simple Boat Plans

In the winter of 1996, I decided to invest some time and money into fitting out my 14 foot Bass Tracker jon boat. In an earlier jon boat conversion project, I had used 2 x 4 bracing, but I thought it added too much weight to the boat while reducing storage space. I ran trolling motor and lights wiring up the port channel and sonar wiring up the starboard channel to avoid interference. The red dot you see and the black receptacle underneath that are 12-volt accessory outlets for my spot light and black light. The rear deck overhangs the front of the stern bench seat just slightly, and stainless steel hinges attach the rear hatch. One of the best features of this design is ease of access to all the under-deck storage while the boat is trailered. The trolling motor brace I fabricated is made of scrap steel bracing, a few stainless steel connectors (for attaching it to the deck), and three steel bolts (to attach a short section of pressure-treated 2 x 4), which I found rummaging around in the workshop.
I also designed and built a spring-loaded version from spare parts in my workshop that had the added advantage of swiveling when I ran my trolling motor into stumps. We are planning on adding a front deck and a few compartments for livewell, tackle storage and whatnot. We are both 19 and both unexperienced builders of any kind so I am more here for help than anything. As far as your bow deck, I could spend a long time explaining it, or I could tell you to drop down and view a thread started by member pbw, about his conversion.

The back is actually not supported yet, we are getting a 10 horse for it so we dont know exactly how its going to fit or even if that deck is cut correctly. As of now its all just cutouts we are thinking about supports, We would either do something like pbw did or run some 2 by 4's parralell in a box shape with room for a cooler and tackle storage underneath. KrisStone wrote:As of now its all just cutouts we are thinking about supports, We would either do something like pbw did or run some 2 by 4's parralell in a box shape with room for a cooler and tackle storage underneath. By dead reckoning, I assumed your seats were about where I put the blue lines, and airbrushing. We worked today on bracing the front so it is stable, it started raining so we had to stop but we ordered the carpet and we should start wiring soon. The structure support will be two sections cut to fit the boat that we will run 2x4's over and possibly on the sides and be riveted into the seats. That is an ideal model for decking due to it's wide beam 60 inches across the gunnels at the stern.
Grey electric PVC tubing was a snug fit, but it ended up looking good and keeps the wires protected and out of sight. A also have a receptacle at the stern so I can run two black lights when fishing with a partner at night. Also, this design makes it less likely that I'll lose rods and reels over the gunnel when I open the hatch.
I decided to use a stern-mount 36-pound thrust trolling motor and attach it to the front to free up casting deck space.

I never got around to mounting it on the boat or trying it out, but in the shop it performed well. I have fished out of many jon boats with partial or full decks, and I wanted to come up with a design that improved on storage space, ease of access, and usable deck space. When afloat, I just reach in from the center bench or fold the hatch flat on the center panel, get what I need, and then close it back.
Lock washers seem to have done the trick I've used this brace for four years now and its still as sturdy as the day I mounted it. I am completely useless in this field, because whatever i attempt to make or build, I break. But when I stand with someone in the back standing, anytime someone sets the hook, the other has to be ready and balanced, or get tossed!
Even though I had a few parts and materials lying around already, and I bought others at discount, I still had to shell out some money for this project.

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