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Published 10.04.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Sailboat Drawings

Location: St Augustine Fl, Thailand Propane Tanks again, These bigger (500 gal) sizes are probably too big for your application, but likely there are some smaller ones that no longer meet the new pressure requirements, and thus become available at greatly reduced prices from new tanks. We have acquired a small 4500# truck crane, electric over hydraulic which should work perfectly.
If one would plan to use these overly heavy tanks, one would be better away, to just build a (much lighter) steel barge. Location: Maine I have a bunch of aluminum planks that are commonly used for bleacher seats.
Originally Posted by Fish Eye View I have a bunch of aluminum planks that are commonly used for bleacher seats. Location: Coastal Georgia Here's a houseboat that uses 4 - 1000 gallon propane tanks.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Originally Posted by Angelique Would it help to lower the drag of the stub keel if it was not flat on the underside but has a NACA shape all around..?? Your design appears to be almost a 'Norwalk Island Sharpie', where they already have proven designs and building methods, so I am not sure what features you are incorporating in a whole new design to justify all the effort you have ahead of you.
The advantages are massive: The boat can be much lighter due to the leverarm of the deeper keel.
So thats it for today, see you soon, Michel Seems you know what is needed for the planned conditions and use so your ideas should work for you. Radio control use is an entirely different thing and quarter scale would work well for this little boat. Sometimes I get to make cool models for other people and from my years at ILM doing ship models for pirate movies, one-quarter scale is best for believable effects that don't look like models, and one-sixth works if you push your techniques.
If I left the tank structure in the foreground off of this pic how many would think it a real brig, just coming to anchor with her sails aback in a hazardous situation?
Originally Posted by rwatson Also, how do you get a boat the same size as a NIS being so much lighter ? As stated before I expect to need 31 sheets of of ply and even if you allow 5 sheets more because i have overseen some parts or calculated wrong, the NIS 26 calls for nearly the double amount of ply. My calclations are realistic, my old Waarschip quartertoner was quite similar in length, beam, scantlings and interior, weighted around 1100kg ready to sail and had 550kg of lead.
Perhaps somebody here on the forum knows how much ballast a NIS 26 carries and whats her bare weight and displacement. Grreetings from the North Sea Coast, Michel Here's a few ideas of where the plywood in an NIS goes - how thick is your transom with a 40hp motor ? When you get around to insignificant detail like stability curves on a boat of that size, you will need around 500 kilos just like the NIS and the MacGregor 26 ( which is another 26ft sharpie) . Its a bit simplistic to gloat how much better and lighter your unengineered, non-professional design is when its all just a twinkle in your minds eye.
Location: Alaska 22' plywood landing craft Here are a few photos of my recently completed boat.
Location: Margate, NJ cor, that's an awesome boat for what you need it for. I've been flipping photos in the gallery as well and found some concept boats that could load from the bow or stern, just back up raise the motor (in a pod) and lower an aft ramp. Location: USA NW coast landing craft, usually aluminum, often have a completely open deck and the house on stilts over the after part of the vessel.
Hoping to stay below 28, as big as I could possible go would be 32' That would be a big project. Originally Posted by Anchy Thanks for advice as I am just about to cut marine ply to fit the windows.
A template and flush cut bit set in a router make quick work of it if you have a number to do. Use a spiral bit which cuts towards the side which can afford to have the bit of tear out which occurs.
Location: United Kingdom Thanks for advice, I am afraid that I will have to cut with jigsaw as I dont have a router at the moment, so I have to improvise. Location: Eustis, FL Jig saws and circular saws rip out grain on the top of the cutting piece, while table saws rip out the bottom face. It's all about two things: knowing your tool (how fast it likes to cut and what angle it might want to dive too if pushed) and second good, sharp blades.
Go slow, use a sharp blade, don't force the cut and sneak up on the line, so you don't cut too much. Location: La Florida What I do is to make a guide either straight or curved to shape from low quality wood clamped to work piece and let the jigsaw, router or circular saw slide along it. Location: United Kingdom Hoytedow, thanks, that is exactly how I am gonna use it.


Cutting panels in bow is nightmare, i try scribing it, using cardboard as guide etc by seems that is always wrong! A good method to cut down on this is to always cut with the good side facing down, as this edge will cut cleaner. You can also razor the cut line before making the cut, so that rip out on the surface is precut and you have the razored edge to look at.
Paul covered the subject so thoroughly he didn't leave any room for me to put my two cents in.
Location: United Kingdom To all advisers bih help and of course more questions Thanks again for advises and sharing your knowledge. Originally Posted by hoytedow What I do is to make a guide either straight or curved to shape from low quality wood clamped to work piece and let the jigsaw, router or circular saw slide along it. I use these along with a big stationary pin router to set up for all sorts of inlay and template work.
Very handy for dropping solid timber trim rings into panels such as a teak surround in a circular floor hatch etc. Location: USA I didn't mean to irritate you, just published photos of a boat that arrived swiftly and hove to for the harbormaster, don't know anymore than it's a small sharpie based yacht. Location: united states I appreciate seeing the photos of the new model and the old. The original plan was to have the sharpie ready to go when I retire in 2015; now it'll be the riverboat instead. The recent Egret that appeared in WoodenBoat magazine wasn't very close to a sharpie, though it started out this way.
Originally Posted by troy2000 Congratulations on getting the model into the water; looks great. Bataan posted some photos ( the gaff rigged one above) of the 28' Egret replika, offered as a plan at the Woodenboatstore. I will need that crane, but with an electric 12V winch running through it, in pipe and a large base plate, those kegs are heavy! Location: Eustis, FL Nothing particularly difficult to make on Egress, Wavewacker.
For the stub keel form I meant it should be extended on the aft side till the hight and width are zero. Unless you can gain significant depth, so the weight of the bulb can dramatically affect the stability curve, they aren't worth installing, particularly on a shoal fin. I'am experienced in flat water sailing (I sailed Jollenkreuzer for a long time) and in real live 1'10'' is just a small drawback against 10''. I'dont know how much ballast a NIS 26 needs, but I will have just 350 to 400 kg to have calculated positive stability for 120° without all the tricks (waterthight masts and reserve volume of the raised deck cabin). I am in my 5th year getting a similar boat designed, certificed, and ready to build, so I have a little idea of what is involved. But if the real boat will ever be built, a pro-designer will check the plan, thats for sure.
My interior is designed around double longitudual backbones, these are also the bunkfaces (bunkrisers? Ya know, a berth could be below a flat deck to roll on and off of, but I would think it would be better to keep the weight low. I wonder if this forum is still going on as I started work for very first time on a boat and is very very tricky. I did cabinet making in workshop before, did everything on machine, so I am not very experianced with hand tools but I am ready for challenge. Most jig saws will tend to wander in specific directions, depending on which side of the line you're cutting. While i was studying I kept picking up peaces in diff shapes to use than in future as a guide. Use a saw guide to make straight cuts, don't force the saw, let the blade do the work, not your arms. The 2 photo im gonna attached now are first is the boat im working and second is how i decide to do window frame. My bill of materials calls for 31 sheets of ply (roughly estimated), while the NIS 26 wants to have 63. You can't beach your boat for long as the small waves and the sand will ruin your bottom, so you have to anchor in deeper water for the night anyway.
In the moment it is not decided what kind of board is housed in the keel, but the centerboard case will reach in no way more than 8'' into the cabin.
My bill of materials calls for 30 sheets of ply (roughly estimated), while the NIS 26 wants to have 63. You can't beach your boat for long as the small waves and the sand will ruin your bottom, so you have to go into deeper water for the night anyway.


In the moment it is not decided what kind of board is housed in the keel, but the centerboard case will reach in no way more than 4'' into the cabin.
This was for flotational use in appraising proposed designs, as it was very easy to scale up to actual.
If the Model is at 1,35kg ready to sail I will be satisfied, because this is the designed displacement.
I would guess it goes into structure and accomodation seperatly and not as one part for both. I put battons all around windows so I wonder what shell I use between Ply and window rubber? Table saws have the teeth rotating down, through the table, so the rip out occurs under the work, while jig and circular saws have upward facing teeth, so the opposite happens. For example, if your blade is cutting to the right of the line, you often have to cock the saw slightly to the left as you cut, to keep the blade on course and tracking down the line.
I wish that I have a router as its best for curves but jigsaw will do with fine blade, I also used the masking tape and cut the faced dowm marine to min.
Its very hard and is grainy and the woven bamboo is full of resin and takes the edge of a saw very quickly . Set the blade so just the teeth and the gap between the teeth show though the cut, no more. Somebody advice to scribe but i find to be very tricky, so i did exact shape to fit widow in sacrificial ply and got frame on the top and with 2 screws in the middle of the window i got position of opening for window right. When the thread got bogged down between some as all threads seem to, it got back to business and it's a loooong read, but worth it! A real, typically proportioned sharpie couldn't be offered in the EU as it's considered unsafe in many categories. This will be a working model, in some parts accurate, scalewise & in some builded like a toy (just a few nessesary frames inside the plywood hull).
Think of this as a aluminum plate, just a tad bigger then the bottom of the fin, of course attached to the bottom of it. Anyway, building a sharpie don't need special building methods, its all standart plywood and epoxy. Modelmaking is good to feel proportions and to check your design work if you can build what you have drawn. You can not sail a centerboarder with the board all up, because you need the leeway prevention of at least a part of the centerboard.
You can't sail a NIS with the board all up, because you need the leeway prevention of at least a part of the centerboard. This limits your cutting angle to 90 degrees of course, but once tried you will never go back. The deck structures are straight forward, plywood over light studs in the structural areas, with a foam core. My shorter wooden mainmast (and the cheap OK Dinghy rig as a mizzen) is working together with a spuaretop mainsail (mimicry gaff) and should be a lot cheaper and nearly as effective.
My shorter wooden mainmast (and the cheap OK Dinghy rig as a mizzen) is working together with a spuaretop mainsail and should be a lot cheaper and nearly as effective. Add 350gr ballast and 220gr for the rc, I have more than 400gr left for deck, rc fastening and rig.
Cutting on the opposite side of the line does the reverse and you need to steer the saw away from the line, to keep the blade on course. On that picture you can see that I started to glue some battens around window on which Im gonna screw 3mm marine ply (the one i hold in picture). I have no bookshelfs, backrests and equally expendable fairings you can see on the interior fotos at the NIS website. I dont know what to use between my ply and window as it will be inch gap, or shell I take that battens out, send that metal around and fix ply directly to it? Plywood bulkheads and furniture accommodations, with the simplest of propulsion arrangements. I'll admit it's not a small project for most people, but Troy's no stranger to projects of this scope, admittedly different then what he's use to, more then within is skill set.
I think the hardest part of this build will be, learning how to sew a straight row of stitches in the cushions on the settees. We don't have an outlet for surplus military stuff like they have in California and the Ohio area and the south. I get some magazines and they seem to have a bunch of locations for some of that great military surplus stuff.



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