Plywood jon boat weight ratings,north river boats for sale by owner vermont,jet boat tunnel hull design agencies,how to build houseboat sims 3 island paradise 0.9.5 - Review

Published 01.12.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Free Fishing Boat Plans

By clicking Confirm bid, you commit to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder.
By clicking Confirm bid, you are committing to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder and have read and agree to the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab. By clicking 1 Click Bid, you commit to buy this item from the seller if you're the winning bidder. The Tracker Sportsman has two bench seats: one in the center with a livewell and another in the stern. First, I carefully measured every dimension of the Tracker and drew top and side views using a computer drafting program. One problem with previous jon boat upgrades I’d helped with was limited access to under-deck storage.
In an earlier jon boat conversion project, I had used 2 x 4 wood bracing, but it added too much weight to the boat while reducing storage space.
My middle bench seat was three inches lower than the short, front deck on my Tracker jon boat. After I had sealed the plywood with a couple coats of Bondo® polyester fiberglass resin, I cut and glued marine carpet on the three panels as well as the middle bench seat and front deck. In order to make the brace at the same height across the back surface of the front deck, I measured down, marked my level line, and then riveted the aluminum L-frame brace in place as a right-side up L.
With the front and back transverse braces in place, I then turned my attention to the four longitudinal braces. To add rigidity, I cut four short studs from my aluminum stock, trimmed the ends, and then riveted them to ribs at the bottom and to the two braces already in place. Last, I laid my carpeted, three-panel deck in place, drilled holes though the center panel and through the two middle braces, squirted some epoxy into the drilled holes to seal the raw wood edges, and then bolted it down with stainless steel nuts and bolts. This configuration has worked out very well, but if I were to do the job differently, I might consider attaching it so I could remove the center bracing and panels as a single unit. For the back hatch, I decided to use the back inch of the bench as support for the plywood hatch. As with the front sections, I sealed the plywood with resin and attached carpet before bolting everything in place.
With all the carpentry completed, I ran trolling motor and lights wiring up the port channel and sonar wiring up the starboard channel.
The red dot you see and the black receptacle underneath that are 12-volt accessory outlets for my spot light and UV light.
Finishing touches were addition of a circulating pump in the livewell and a bilge pump next to the drain plug. I also used short sections of closed-cell pipe wrap to cover the metal edges around the rod locker to protect my rods’ lacquered finishes. The trolling motor brace I fabricated is made of scrap steel bracing, a few stainless steel connectors (for attaching it to the deck), and three steel bolts (to attach a short section of pressure-treated 2 x 4), which I found rummaging around in the workshop. I also cobbled together a spring-loaded version from spare parts in my workshop — two heavy-duty springs, an exterior door hinge, some steel plate and blocks of wood. Ty Wall’s Jon Boat Conversion photo journal takes you from bare boat to finished project.
In the front, I went with a floor light and a switch panel for the electronics (nav lights, floor lights, bilge, and livewell. I'd like to have a fold-out bed in the back, with a little asian girl that pops out to give me a massage. If I were to do a sheet metal floor or aluminum floor in my 1448 jon boat, what would be the best foam to use under the floor?
Go to Lowes or Home Depot and get one of the blue insulation sheets with a width close to that of your ribs and cut to fit.
Close cell foam, you can buy it in sheets and several thickness .Don't glue it down, leave loose but tightly fitted . It's not just a duck boat, it is a tatical platform for opportunity- weedwacker 101Preserve game and hunt with a trained dog- NAVHDA.
Plain old extruded polystyrene (the pink sheets if made by Owens-Corning) is actually a closed cell foam, so it is a reasonable option.


If you believe in the 150 pellets in the 10 inch circle, I guarantee you will miss more turkeys!!
I have pink close cell under my floor on each boat, even my canoe has a more flexible close cell bow to stern, gunnel to gunnel.not glued down with plenty of drain area underneath, not water absorption issues .
Packaging should be the same as what is found in a retail store, unless the item is handmade or was packaged by the manufacturer in non-retail packaging, such as an unprinted box or plastic bag.
Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount. Before you leave, learn about the Secret Weapon Innobait™ Tackle System and customize a kit that provides you with virtually unlimited options.
There is also a small elevated deck in the bow, which is too small to serve as a casting platform. That turned out to be a huge benefit, since I was able to add and refine several ideas without ever touching a piece of wood or hand tool. My solution was to make the front deck from three plywood panels, arranged so that two of them could serve as large hatches, enabling me to easily store and retrieve gear. When I swing open the hatches, rods and gear roll into the center of the boat rather than over the gunwales and into the lake. I wanted to span between them with plywood decking to create a large casting platform with two hatches that could be opened to access the storage space below deck, and I wanted it flush with the middle bench seat. I measured that far down from the top of the bench seat, marked the level, and riveted an inverted aluminum L-frame brace across the entire front of the bench seat.
I needed two parallel ones in the center, spaced the width of the center deck panel, and two more to attach to the gunwales.
That done, a 350-pound man could safely walk across my deck without it sagging under his weight.
That would mean using eight wing nuts — four to attach the vertical braces to the ribs, and four to attach the two center braces to the transverse braces riveted to the bench and casting deck.
I screwed aluminum L-frame brackets to the wooden transom and trimmed the plywood panel to fit. The hinges are stainless steel, and the lift handle for the rear hatch is a low-profile aluminum gate handle. I also have a receptacle at the stern so I can run two black lights when fishing with a partner at night. Toggle switches for them are mounted under one of the rear corner deck braces where they won’t be kicked but are easy to reach. I decided to use a stern-mount 36-pound thrust trolling motor and attach it to the front to free up casting deck space.
The advantage of this design is that is swivels when you run the trolling motor into stumps, saving wear and tear on the motor (and keeping you in the boat). Some are wide enough to be suitable for elevated decking, but most are too narrow and tend to roll dangerously if the occupants’ center of gravity is too high. Since every model of jon boat is different and what you want to do with the boat after you’ve finished modifying it is unique to you, then you need to dream, measure, plan, and draft or sketch the modifications that are right for you. They will be glad to sell you their book and plans, and the results are entirely satisfying. And if you’re the kind of angler who likes to modify and improve his equipment to get the most out of every moment on the water, be sure to stop by the Secret Weapon Lures site to learn of the biggest change in spinnerbaits in the last 50 years. I would like to get some more practice on somebody else's before I get too far along with mine. I don't know how far apart your ribs are, but I would suggest using some to further strengthen the floor, you don't want the aluminum denting between ribs, and a sheet isn't more than $10 or $20. I know some foams are better than others for bouyancy but i think as they all break down they will absorb some water. I have removed some floatation from mine and the only place to replace it is under the floor. This past summer I redid the floor and was pleasantly surprised to find the foam was in great shape and I thus put it back under the floor. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable.


Modify your spinnerbaits and buzzbaits right on the casting deck in seconds, without tools. I have fished out of many jon boats with partial or full decks, and I wanted a design that improved on storage space, ease of access, and usable deck space.
I was also able to identify all the components I would require to do the job, and I purchased or scrounged everything I needed before I started drilling and sawing.
The three panels are hinged at the two joints so that the hatches swing inward, like gull-wings. If I hinged along the outside, I would have probably attached the hatches to two tapering plywood decking strips, which would have reduced their width.
I had to decide if I wanted to slope the plywood up to the level of the front casting deck or make it parallel to the built-in surfaces, and I settled on the latter. I cut the two center ones to length, trimmed the ends, and riveted them to the transverse braces. One of the best features of this design is ease of access to all the under-deck storage while the boat is on the trailer.
Simply unbolting and lifting off the panels and bracing would restore the boat to its original configuration if I decided to crouch down low in the boat for duck hunting. After studying on it awhile, I decided to take on some extra weight and added another plywood panel on top of the rear bench seat. Still on my to-do list is to add three locking latches to protect my storage compartment contents while the boat is unattended.
Gray electric PVC tubing was a snug fit, but it makes a neat job and keeps the wires protected and out of sight.
I never got around to mounting it on the boat or trying it out, but in the shop it performed well. Do not add a casting deck with pedestal seating if the boat is not at least five feet wide. The Minnow Bucket offers fabrication details and photos of this first-rate conversion project. I ordered a boat carpet kit from Bass Pro Shop, but most of the other supplies were already in my workshop or could be found at the Home Depot and a marine supply store. I then made sure I positioned the outside pair on the same plane as the center longitudinal braces and then riveted them at both ends and to the ribs that extended up the sides of the boat.
When afloat, I just reach in from the center bench or fold the hatch flat on the center panel, get what I need, and then close it back. Also, some jon boats already have limited freeboard (the sidewall area that’s out of the water), and adding heavy plywood decking makes them ride too low in the water to be safe.
And to really upgrade your capabilities, take a look at our Recoil Rig — new for 2009. That ensured the rear deck was flush all the way across both panels, and it also resulted in a much more secure surface to later anchor my seat pedestal receiver. Even though I had a few parts and materials lying around already, and I bought others at discount, I still had to shell out some money for this project. However, even if you have a narrow jon boat and need to stand on the floor or sit on seats attached directly to the benches, there are still plenty of things you can do to improve comfort as well as functionality. That turned out to not be a problem; I just trimmed the aluminum so it fit into place and then riveted everything together. Also, attach the floor with as few fastners as possible and keep a tool in your boat to get the floor loose with. When you run a fence post in a flooded field through the bottom of the boat you can't get the floor up fast enough to stuff a coat in it!!!



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