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Published 02.12.2013 | Author : admin | Category : Wooden Skiff Plans

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Location: La Florida The flat bottom version will be more stabile, but the v bottom would get less pounding. I would suggest that you create a hull bottom that is about halfway between the two examples you have shown. I would also suggest that you reduce the amount of bow ramp just a bit so that going forward when alone will not be as much of an adventure. I've designed a couple of boats (Swamper and Swamp King) that are near to the one you are developing. Location: Lakeland Fl USA A 12 foot boat with a 30 inch chine beam is going to be a bit tiddly. Originally Posted by messabout A 12 foot boat with a 30 inch chine beam is going to be a bit tiddly.

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Location: Duluth, Minnesota teak and holly plywood Do any of you folks have a scource in the US for a good quality T&H panel? CatBuilder Previous Member   I don't know what the usual suppliers are for you, but call Chris Boulter at Boulter plywood in Somerville, MA. His wood is exceptionally high quality, judging from what I have received from him vs what I have seen in FL (and ordered and returned in FL). Originally Posted by Steve W Thanks cat,actually the stuff i just used came from Boulter,very poor quality,the T&H face veneer is gorgeous, just paper thin, on a sub standard panel. Location: Eustis, FL Just buy some thicker veneers and glue it to a substrate.
Originally Posted by Steve W Do any of you folks have a scource in the US for a good quality T&H panel? The panels my supplier provided have as I judge a decent surface veneer that one might get a couple of sand outs and refinishes before it is toast.. I go with PAR on this- none of the veneer T&H floors will stand up to much before they are trashed. Location: Eustis, FL A live edge is as it sound, the actual edge of the log after it's been sawn. Location: Duluth, Minnesota Thanks guys, Boob Bait for the Bubbas eh,thats a good one Fred,and you are right of course.
Location: MD The stock I have has a thin surface veneer as well- I got fooled by a bit mahogany lain just under. Location: Jupiter Fl USA Bruynzeel used to make a ply that came with about a mm thick teak and holly veneer. Packaging should be the same as what is found in a retail store, unless the item is handmade or was packaged by the manufacturer in non-retail packaging, such as an unprinted box or plastic bag. Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount.

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This mid-point deadrise angle will give you some chop cutting when looking to attain some speed and have virtually all the side to side stability that you'd get from a pure flat bottom. With the small power that you mention, you will not lose a measurable amount of performance by going either way.
I am just finishing up a new sole in a customers boat but am pretty fed up with the crap available from most of the usual suppliers, i mean, it looks beautiful but its just superficial, with paper thin face veneers on basically junk plywood. You can do some inlay work with your logo incorporated into it, juts to remind the client that it's not a slap me on the butt job. I have made up my own stuff in years past but these days our customers dont want to spend the money. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. The boat that you have suggested will probably be OK for one person who is willing to sit on or very near the floor. The only thing that's cut is the top and bottom (front and back on a clock) faces, the edges are just as the tree was when live (hence the name).
Now, most live edge veneer has been de-barked, but the sap wood and log shape are usually still there. Essentially, you're buying sliced veneers that haven't been trimmed up along their edges, which offers more fitting options and can usually save you some money, if bought by the flitch.
You still have to cut the edges off, as much of it is waste wood anyway, but you have the option of where to cut.

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