River boat hull design freeware,used pontoon boats acworth ga usps,party boat rental wilmington nc 98.7,boat trailers for sale baton rouge 311 - Tips For You

Published 10.07.2015 | Author : admin | Category : Plywood Jon Boat Plans

Recently we drew an optional layout on the Wyoming hull with more accommodations, including an aft cabin, but without making any significant changes in the basic construction. Two Tortoise punts on the housetop will not maroon anyone aboard if one crew has "to get away from it all".
These boats steer and maneuver well except for being blown around in strong winds on the beam.
December 22, 2014New Video – March 22, 2014  I thought Shanty Boat Living readers may be interested in an update on the “Mini” Houseboat I designed (congratulations on your one millionth view).
February 27, 2014Well, reports are in that the first build of the Mini CamperCruiser is complete and water tests are underway. September 10, 2013Today’s email question: I live in Portland and wonder if the Brandy Bar is still afloat and can she be seen?
The intended purpose would be shallow river operations AND, retaining the outboard, not changing the lower unit over to jet drive. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Danube Delta Building a stern tunnel into an existing flat bottom aluminum boat Hi everyone. The boat as you can see in the pictures has two pontoons attached to the sides to increase stability. 5.In order to lower the draft I will need to choose a smaller diameter propeller (and I will prefer 3 blades as they run better in weed infested waters) what would be the equivalent propeller so I can keep same gear box for a 40cm diameter ? what pitch. Location: seattle Wa USA would a jack shaft and stern drive solve the problem?
Location: Danube Delta Stern drives are complicated, expesive and unreliable so they are kind of out of the question. Location: Danube Delta Here is the tunnel with the same proportions given in CDK's sketches. One question is - where should be the water line so the tunnel operates optimally also in reverse? I can not go wit the rudder lower than the skeg as it will cause problems when hitting a log under water r in the shallows.
The boat will go slow most of the time and manoeuvring is very important to me as the canals are narrow and full of surprises.
Location: OREGON How about wraping a Cort Nozzle around the prop for protection? Location: Danube Delta Well cort nosels are complicated things and in the weeds they are useless just like jets.

Daniel I was pointing you towards the strong upper mounting of the rudder plus the method to make the rudder blade stiff in sideways bending, that you can see in the pics. With a 150 hp two-stroke motor which he already owned she was intended to be able to maintain 16 knots with very little wake. They were designed to be assembled from prefabricated panels cut out and finished flat on the floor. A good professional builder offered to deliver one for $25,000 complete except for motor (about fifteen years ago!). She is "more rational" now as you can now lock your misbehaving children into the aft-cabin, making Wyoming a sleek, in all ways economical boat for a family to do backwater and inshore exploration with; or strap them into the bowcockpit. We'd mount them on "flat" davits for easy no-scrape deployment, perhaps side-by-side to leave the rest of the housetop a "no step" photovoltaics farm.
It has its own portable separate fuel tank to allow for the terminal trouble being dirty fuel, or no fuel.
After all, a sailing boat of very similar shape and construction made an uneventful east-to-west Atlantic crossing. She's fast to build, consider Home Depot-style furniture kits for her galley block and loose chairs and table for "lounging" instead of dinette, will run swiftly with moderate power, and can be "parked" economically as well, assuming smart search for dryout backwater mooring to "plant" her 6"+ draft at minimum mooring cost. Yes, they are lightweight, though that isn’t so much an issue on a shantyboat, but space certainly is.
More directly, I’m trying to choose a design and the Brandy bar seems about right for me. We’ve rigged five lines on cable-and-chain dug-in permanent anchors (auto-rims buried two feet down) southerly, toward the weather, and two lines to trees ashore, toward the lee. I have purchased this boat a few weeks ago and I am planning to modify it a bit to suit my needs. I have downloaded the pictures you have posted and found particularly interesting the tunnel build for the ex jet powered boat. You may very well use a traditional lower bearing to connect the blade to the heel, but don't expect it to carry side forces. The big boat was laid out to be assembled nghtside up, only the finished bottom panel having to be turned over in building.
High berthing costs (mostly from lack of imagination as to where to put her) and equally narrow-minded suspicions of supposed poor behavior in rough water (we'd try to avoid it in any boat!), eventually kept any of them from going ahead as far as we know, except for one in Australia that was fitted out as a live-on-board with a lot (!) of added superstructure. In that case you'd have up to 12' x 7' clear sur face to locate a lot of wattage to do without any generator, as there's no outboard of any power yet to offer more than marginal amperage of charge-current for those house batteries. But since it takes something like three-quarters of a ton to sink her an inch deeper, she will still run elegantly over a great range of speed.

A bigger four-stroke like the Honda 130 would give her a much higher cruising speed and still show good mileage at the displacement speed due to the four-stroke motor's dramatically higher fuel-efficiency at reduced rpm over the initial 150hp two-stroke. We think it would be possible to give her a bow thruster at moderate cost, in the form of a 65lbs thrust Minnkota electric trolling motor in a watertight well in the forward cockpit.
If you can't find the thread, I'll see if I can stir my sediments; the sketch should be there somewhere! My question is how would this system work with a 21" prop and a skeg for protection but without the closed ring as this will cause problems when going through weeds.
Even better to omit the lower bearing altogether, and just let the aft part of the heel slip under the bottom of the rudder.
Boats of this construction can be built in very few man-hours; hardly "instant boats" in this size range, though in fact another 50' hull of our design was built in one day under rather unusual circumstances. That one was powered with two 9.9hp Yamaha high-thrust four-stroke motors, which drove her at full displacement speed. For displacement speed, the nice Yamaha 4-cylinder 4-stroke T-50 high-thrust, turning a 14" x 11" prop, will cruise her well throttled back at eight knots, offering enough prop for good maneuvering.
Either way, that aft-cabin structure will shield cockpit and helm superbly from noise, possibly risking starter-trouble from repeatedly "starting" the already idling engine. Retracted, with the bottom opening covered, it would not have the drag or the corrosion problems of through-hull thrusters, and would be more effective than most of them due to its 11" x 4" prop.
It would be useful in berthing with an offshore breeze, and getting away with an onshore one.
And with the "guest cabin", a liveaboard situation is feasible in relative comfort and some style, without foregoing having friends stay over.
The heel profile forward of the prop should be rectangular (vertical) with proportions ~60 x 10, with corners VERY well rounded! The ability of the trolling motor to swing through 360 degrees would allow it to combine with the main engine at maximum lock and idling speed to push her straight sidewise.
With for instance the 700ah battery bank shown you can leave a laptop, TV, reading lights, and anchor light going for a while. There would be a number of ways of arranging such power for single-handed control from the helm.

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