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Published 21.09.2013 | Author : admin | Category : Wooden Yachts

Originally Posted by Steve2ManyBoats Based on this experience, I'm more concerned with weight than length. Location: Bellingham WA Something to consider with the canal boat design is that they are designed to sail on, well, canals.
Is it possible to set up a thread to try to come to some reasonably solid definitions and post them in a sticky? Originally Posted by cthippo Something to consider with the canal boat design is that they are designed to sail on, well, canals. Long, narrow, and light displacement boats dominate the modern fishing fleet in the third world, where pangas and similar are the norm. This is the primary reason that military ships, which must traverse heavy sea conditions speedily and safely, have length-beam ratios on the order of 8:1, similar to the length beam ratios of the maximum trailerable boats being explored here. One of the probems I've observed on power boats (many times on many boats) that are of more conventional dimensions (3 to 1 LB ratios are very common today), is that you can't drive them at the speeds you want to. To me, at least, it's all about having reasonable expectations about what I want my boat to do. Location: Los Angeles The older I get, the more enjoyment I find in going slow. The shape I'm most attracted to is mostly like a canoe or ocean going kayak: rounded bottom amidship, deadrise fore and aft, double ended, with narrow waterline angles fore and aft. I don't mean to denigrate anything that has been said but feel that this point needs to be brought up.
So, for a given amount of load, what would get through rough chop comfortably at whatever speed the owner selected? Let's say the speed is 10 to 15 knots (personally, I'm targeting 8 to 10, but for this discussion lets crank it up some).
There is substantial research that shows beam has a cubed effect on harshness of ride: twice the beam is 8 times the vertical accelerations. And we all know that deadrise has a big impact, but it turns out to be more or less linear in the ranges one would consider (up to about 45 degrees) for a planing or semi planing hull.

Of course, a non-planing hull with a fine entry and nearly plum bow approaches 90 degrees of deadrise at entry.
Let's assume that water plane area dominates load carrying -- that load carrying really means how much the boat increases depth for a given additional displacement.
Just for a concrete example, let's say you wanted to carry the amount of stuff that is easily carried on one of Tom's beautiful Bluejackt 24s. The result would be a boat whose hull speed is 1.4 times as fast, and so that much of the semi-planing speeds would become displacement speeds with dramatically lower power requirements. And of course, the vertical accelerations would be one eighth as much, so a much smoother ride in that same chop. Its worth remembering that all was not wonderful with such boats: at their maximum speeds (SL of 3+) the roll stability was nearly non-existant.
Location: Oriental, NC There are many varying attributes competing for levels of importance in any boat design.
I would put the minimum WL beam at about 6' and the deck beam at about 18" greater than that.
I find that a waterplane aspect ratio of about 0.34 or so makes for pretty good harmony with all the competing factors for home built cruisers up to about 30'. Originally Posted by Steve2ManyBoats One of the probems I've observed on power boats (many times on many boats) that are of more conventional dimensions (3 to 1 LB ratios are very common today), is that you can't drive them at the speeds you want to.
I'm sure that Tom would agree that these are the fundamental thoughts behind both of our designs - Graphite and the BJ series.
Vessels that can modify their speeds to suit the conditions are indeed a rarity, but as long marina's continue to charge by length and people only rack up 50 or so hours per year, then that's unlikey to change. Nigel Irens is a strong advocate for the sort of vessel you are talking about - though not with the extreme narrow beam. I'm trying to use length as a way to overcome a (relatively) narrow beam dictated by the desire to voyage by trailer without permits or hassle and as a way to increase volume and overall efficiency and seakeeping.
It still seems to me that, with an eye towards a more traditional asthetic, I keep coming back to a simple V hull with a nice sheer and a deadrise that runs from sharp forward to flat or nearly so aft.

I've been pondering this thread for some time now - it has the potential to be quite an interesting project. I don't want a planing hull or even a semi-planing hull, the slamming forces and loads are just not pleasant. If you were going to move the boat with muscle, you sure would not want a flat bottom over a round bottom -- wetted surface and structural weight is worse.
The vertical acceleration in a seaway is related to the cube of the beam, so twice the beam results in eight times the vertical accelerations. Sure, the hull and deck surface area would be greater (the minimum for a given volume is a sphere, so the further from a sphere, the more surface area).
Same problem: the boats would be balanced on their very narrow ends, and would happily roll dramatically to the side.
Low displacement is fundamental to their success however - it allows them to be pushed to SL's of around 2.5 with good economy as long as the displacement length ratio is kept under 100 and preferably less. So one may have to go to foam-glass instead of ply to hit the weight target, but that's not hard. The problem as I see it though, is that if you load them up - as cruisers are want to do - they no longer perform well. This is the foundation on which all future design decisions are made and is more often than not critical to the success (or otherwise) of the build. Boats like Graphite and Liz, however can happily contend with heavier loads, albeit at a minor fuel cost. After WW2, fuel and powerful engines became much cheaper and widespread, enabling the current fleet of fat, heavy, and inefficient vessels.

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