Ski boat design plans 00,build a aluminum boat plans aluminum,electric pontoon boats for sale used,wooden boat school schedule early - Tips For You

Published 05.11.2013 | Author : admin | Category : Wooden Yachts

Location: VICTORIA Hi just a couple of questions Where abouts are you located in Australia? Look forward to seeing the pictures and if you can provide any other information that you think would be of use please send it through along with you asking price.
Location: Hills District, Sydney, NSW, Australia Just wondering if this is still available. Location: Australia Boat moulds still avialable for purchase Hi, Have been away a while, these moulds are still available for sale if you are interested. Moulds Wanted » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Boat moulds for sale! When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Ontario tja - Pictures have been emailed I have forwarded pictures of the finished utility and ski boat product to your email. Location: Ontario We're looking to move these molds by the end of the month. Location: N E Georgia What year is this Ski Barge I have a Ski Barge that I need to find out the year model so I can register it.
Location: australia interesting boat poida, i have doubts about going offshore though.
Location: Australia What do you think the effects would be of one of those skis hitting a floating object at 120 KPH ie log, getting caught in a fishing float or a large marine animal (dolphin)? Hitting a log at 120 KPH is going to ruin your whole day pretty much regardless of what kind of boat you're on. Originally Posted by cthippo On the other hand, I'm also not sure what problem they're solving with this design. This is an example of how one can spend the same amount of money to arrive at something horrible as they would spend to arrive at something beautiful. It was developed to have the fwd ski and ride on its own captured air bubble with some lift generated by its wing shaped body. Location: maine Actually, that IS me after getting a bit dehydrated one day out to sea last week during a rowing fiasco. Location: Queensland I thought it was quite obvious from the photograph at the start - it's for towing caravans (look carefully), possibly in New Orleans? I used to be int cars when i was young but its just a mode of transport now and has little interest . My 2.5 Mazda V6 is quite enough for me !goes well is 100 % reliable and is not to hard on petrol pulls my boat with ease and is comfortable . Frosty Previous Member   The early ones were 4 strombergs, The other jags you mention were the XJ12 or the Daimler double 6.
Originally Posted by Frosty The early ones were 4 strombergs, The other jags you mention were the XJ12 or the Daimler double 6.
Some where buried in my boxes of old books are all the information sheets on su carbs a little while later was the zenith stromberg and i have a complete list of crbs and servicing data and needles etc as well i sold the 100E and bought a 1340 cc 315 consul , i did a complete reco from ened to end and converted it to floor change , a friend had a 1500 cc gt cortina with a 5 bearing crank and over a 11 miles i could pass him and get a good mile ahead of him by the time we got to the other end !! Frosty Previous Member   100E is a side valve --is this a trick question ?


The 105e 997 cc was the fore runner of the 109e 1340 cc that had a better block and that block would take 997 cc 1198cc 1340 cc just by changing the crankshaft and conrods . Then the ford compan has a long build motor that was a 1500 cc was really cheap and could do a motor change in one day no sweat ,drive in with a 997cc and drive out with 1500 cc same day with just a few minor changes like the springs in the clutch pressure plate was just one thing i did of my own !! Frosty Previous Member   Tuning a 100E or the earlier E93a would be like errr putting brake shute on a transit van. Originally Posted by Frosty Tuning a 100E or the earlier E93a would be like errr putting brake shute on a transit van. A good sized underfloor tank will do wonders for trim and getting weight down low !!Like i already wrote boats sitting for periods of time with fuel not being used is not good so need a way to be able to pump all the fuel out like as in total to stop condensation and what ever else tanks get inside when left with fuel in them !!.
Strakes are so miss understood and over time i have exsperimented with small boats ,they can and do increase lift and added Manoeuvrability at speed has left some die hards with there mouths open and shaking there heads how did you do that ??
Originally Posted by tunnels E93a and the 100E were 1172 cc yes i had a E93a on my small boat it had 2 E93A carbs down draughts planed head , and a very light flywheel with the ring gear for the starter, 12 volt on a 6 volt starter ,man it used to start easy .
The 440 would often pull of the port side engine mounting if I booted it in 2nd gear--something I could never resist from doing. Think seriously where you going to place your battery .It needs to be up off the floor is possible in a place thats easy accessable but where it wont get water splashed or dripped on it at any time . I had a oldish boat before the one i have now and the strakes went all the way to the bow !! Rocker can have a simular effect as well but its the placement of the high point of the rocker thats very important . The fine tuning of each and every part makes for a boat thats totally predictable and absolutly magic to drive . Location: Taralga NSW The hull is now off the (interim) trailer and suspended from the shed roof beams, giving access to the underside where some minor scrapes incurred in transit need to be repaired - no big deal. Regarding external strakes, your advice is appreciated, but I'm inclined to leave the hull as built - you can see from the fwd view it already has small strakes moulded in and I'll have plenty to do without adding complications. Shallow vee so is not a sea boat ,also a long racked back stem deffinitly not a sea boat !! The air can exspand and contract like nature intended and each time it exspands the pressure forces the water out and keeps the chamber dry and non smelly because it breaths all the time !! There could have been cable steering going down each side of the hull so some where near where the dash and steering were positioned there could be signs of more blocks or screw or bolt holes towards the front some where . No i would not fit the plate at all its for inboard not outboard and will serve no usefull purpose at all !!so scarp it !!. Like i said before you have to make up your mind very early on if you going to fit a bracket or not !!! What sort of tempratures and humidity do you have now and will be getting in the coming months ahead ?
The first few times you had at it, you probably could barely please yourself, but with practice and some guidance, you managed to impress one or two prom dates.
I go there a lot and I am sure the guys over there would really getting good information about boat.
I think it was Bosch K or maybe J Long time ago i use ti race a old 100 prefect and i had a matche pair of mini cooper SU carbs but could never quite get the right needles of them , had one pair for wet weather and another pair for dry weather .


Mind you they were not flat heads but bath tubs and skimming the heads was a waste of time and reduced swept volume. The closer to the motor the better so you can keep the cables short for the starter and power supply etc . Some really fast boats have hook !!,near the back and makes them get up on the plane really fast and the hull just rides on the last 300 mm to 400 mm of the hull at speed when trimmed out with the air supporting the hull and thats a reall hard act to follow !!
For race boats that need to turn quickly and not have to touch the trim button ,rocker done properly is just the bees knees the moment you turn the wheel the outboard lifts the back of the hull as it starts to slip sideways this making the nose go down and dig slightly and round you go !!, pull the wheel straight again and all goes back to normal !!,back down, nose up, and flying . If you intend to fit a bracket then the motor will sit back aways and becasue its a 25 inch leg its high and you could almost get away without any splashwell at all just a shallow hollow in the aft deck for when the motor if fully tilted up with clearance of coarse !! The transom is only about 12 mm thick so as recommended by several of you, it will need thickening to 50 mm and with heavy knees to take the thrust of a 150 HP outboard.
Will make all out of fibreglass painted inside apart fron a 50mm wide strip right at the back of the tank in the middle so i can actually see the fuel level inside the tank !!
The first time i saw it was at a boat show and a can with petrol had a flame burning at the mouth of the container , normally an absolutely impossible situation . The aft deck when you make it becomes a very structual part of your transom so you could need a couple of strong knees down onto the sides of those stringers and bolted through! That will be reasonably simple for me to do The heavy plate is obviously a cavitation plate and it bolts to the underside of the hull through the existing holes (with stays from the transom).
If you get and have a look see in the corners of the topsides meet the transom there possibly holes where rope pulley blocks could have been fixed or theres blocks of wood stuck there where the blocks were ! BUT if it is still hard and solid and dry its just a matter of making another new transom laminating 2 layers of 18 mm or 2 layers of 20 mm !ply together to make up the 30 plus mm thickness you need for the complete new transom thickness then doing a good glass job over the top after its stuck in place .
Done the way i do them can make a hull sit flatter and more stable in the water once you get a bit of speed up !!and because they lift the hull it helps reduce wetted area .
A nice sharp Vee is better all the way from the stem to about a cople of metres from the transom . I'll bond in a couple of new deck beams and replace the deck panel (supplied) The next bulkhead about 1 metre back from the stem has been removed completely so this too will get new deck beams once I work out the best fore and aft position for the dashboard and seats. The stupid questions are: a)do I need to retain the cavitation plate or is the one on the outboard sufficient? The prop shaft would also have had a strut so there could be signs of a block located inside about 300mm long x 150mm wide some place near the back inside could be up to 400 mm forward of the transom Again if its not there then the holes for bolts etc would have been glassed over .
The sharp vee make the hull track dead straight and not want to wander off one side or the other . Having worked on raceboats i had these things ground into me from day one the importance of it all !!



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Comments to «Ski boat design plans 00»

  1. fan_of_rock writes:
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  3. eee writes:
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