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Published 20.02.2016 | Author : admin | Category : Diy Sailboat Plans

4 or 5 have been built and a few stretched versions are on the verge.This is the original at 12 ft long and 4 ft wide. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada If you click on user CP you can see if anyone has docked you points. 12'x 4' though it would be a lot more stable at 5' or better in beam, though it's efficiency will drop quickly. This shape will handle chop and passing powerboat wakes much better then the floating shoe boxes others seem to enjoy. The design above will easily out perform any of the shanty boat, box boat or square micro cruiser thingies. Having said that i can once again assure you that you dont want to go that fast in a 12' x 4' (4m x 1.2m) boat. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. But the flat-bottom skiffs tend to porpoise and pound, and I might occasionally tow a skier or want to cruise sort of fast, while a 40' deadrise is a bit much for me. So, I have been looking for shoal draft, chop handling, and ability to cruise comfortably on plane. Then I started drawing and -surprise- same up with a 20ft skiff (is there a prize for the billionth design?). I realize it might not perform better than other S+G designs (at best) but to me the look is better, with a couple extra panels. Location: maine Regardless of what she'll do motoring, I saw nothing in the lines to prevent sailing rather fast with the right rig.
Location: Pontevedra, Spain You'll have to keep that forefoot out of the water when planning, or it may induce directional instability, in my opinion. I have only crude guesses about trim under power at this stage, but with an outboard, it should not be hard to have the bow trim up. Now all I have to do is turn the aft stations to true monohedron and I would have something I could buy on any street corner-the homogenized skiff! Location: Sydney I think your second design looks much better - no need for that pointed forefoot in the first one, and that wedge did look like the drag would outweight the benefits.
Location: Virginia, US The transom is not warped as you can see from the (unfaired) views here. BWD View Public Profile View BWD's Gallery Find all posts by BWD « >small jet boat design help? Alder is one of ten power boat designs created for the article “Power Boat Design, Form and Function” PDF, published in Wooden Boat #137. Using our guide of one horsepower per 500 lbs, Alder needs about 5HP to attain her cruising speed.


Construction is simple, the lower hull is built upside down, sheathed with fabric set in epoxy, and turned over for completion of the upperworks. The style of the Shanty 20 and the Marjorie 26 is reminiscent of this cruiser designed and built by my grandfather Harry Roberts, shown here in 1912 near Roberts Creek, BC. Construction Method and Materials: Cold-molded, sheathed –strip, or foam cored fiberglass construction. Location: uk thank you for everyones help i finally decided on building a 15ft skiff as it does what i need. I'm a bit of a broken record about about this site, but it offers a free look at complete plans for some old designs. Location: Florida come on Oz, skip the plywood, you've worked in real wood, and are familiar with it, and probably enjoy and appreciate it. Location: Eustis, FL That's traditional file planking and something I'm very familiar with, but it's heavy, has many dozens of potential leak points and is difficult to fair.
Location: Florida lol, better just to walk along the bank then instead of getting into a plywood boat! Originally Posted by p_smith come on Oz, skip the plywood, you've worked in real wood, and are familiar with it, and probably enjoy and appreciate it. But if he's looking for a practical, easier-built and more watertight boat, methods and materials have come a ways in the last hundred years or so.
Location: Eustis, FL He can install skids and bottom strakes to protect the planking.
You would have to reshape the bottom which would preclude planing with a motor so you would be stuck maxing out at about 5 or 6 mph. It looks like a boat, it has full standing headroom, requires very modest power and will leave a clean, unmolested wake. You will soon see that you want to cruise comfortably with sitting head room under the cabin roof to escape the sun. Maybe needs a touch more flare -tough issue for me ( - I'm from Va but went to school in NC ). So I was thinking originally if warped it might run flat enough to be good if I stay out of nastier waves.
I have drawn in the 290 lb, 35 year old Volvo Penta MD 1 diesel, producing 7HP at 2300 RPM. Another rule of thumb is that the hull is only twenty percent of a boat's cost, and the hull and deck is twenty-five percent. Neither the service provider nor the domain owner maintain any relationship with the advertisers.
If you hook up a gas engine to this type of bottom, it will leak like a bottomless bucket (file planking doesn't tolerate vibration or wracking).


I like the near-plumb stem, so kept that in spite of the lightness of the boat, since I'm not looking to go in big water.
Hoping it might run 20-25kts with a 70hp OB, cut small steep chop easily off plane, and if lucky run comfortably at 15 or so.
This type of boat is ideal as a harbour cruiser, inshore fisherman, or island support boat. In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois). The software packages now available can make some pretty pictures of boats, but it doesn't tell you if the shapes you've selected are well suited to your needs. Say if you were looking at her from the side, she would look like her bow is flat (like your design) but on my design, her bow come to an edge and you can see that looking from the top.
It's a fine arrangement if you're needs require the few things they actual offer, but your needs aren't as suited to a mud motor as you might think.
Feel over my head trying to integrate elemants here, but grateful for any constructive feedback. I would round the forefoot a bit, but easier to do in reality than in CAD, so it shows sharp in renderings.
For one thing the Volvo produces 5HP at 1500 RPM, which is so much easier to listen to than the outboards 4500 or so.
So economy in the basic structure can go along ways toward making the whole thing affordable. It's the material that will keep you socks dry and generally is some of the best on the boat, if professionally built. Considering the hundreds of designs available for a boat in this size range, you're so much better off, just buying a set of plans and following the engineering in them. But the outboard is much smoother you say, this is true, but I can work on the Volvo with a hammer and a couple of metric wrenches. Another area for economy is outfit, no sensible builder will look twice at a design specifying a 35 year old antique engine, he or she wants something available off the shelf. Construction is of moderate difficulty, for the more experienced amateur builder and depending on the choice of building material. If you want a traditional build with antique building methods, use the file plank system, but if you don't want to fuss with the hull after it's built, use plywood. When the outboard throws a fit I must take it to the nearest Factory Trained Technician, besides, the Volvo's slow, steady, thump is appropriate to Alder, and the weight will steady her down.



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