Strip plank canoe plans free uk,small catamaran power boat plans 02,paddle board lessons ocean city md 2014 - Easy Way

Published 27.09.2013 | Author : admin | Category : Wooden Yachts

I've heard that starting at the turn of the bilge and working both up and down is a workable compromise. Perhaps if you start at the sheer and work down to the turn of the bilge and then from the keel up the admittedly ugly transition can be hidden with botom paint. On the issue of durability, strippers with a fiberglass coating hold their own pretty well, and are fairly strong, but you will damage them hitting rocks and such - usually just a scratch, but sometimes a bit more seriously. If you want to bang some rocks on the local class 3 all you have to do is add sufficient glass to the bottom.
Fiberglass is plenty strong in tension and has the added benefit of wetting out clear so the wood shows thru'. W&Cs are pretty boats, especially when new, but painted canvas is never going endure the gouges and hits as well as a stripper with about 12 ounces of glass on the bottom. Last weekend I ran a local river and one of the oldtimers there showed me a photo album of about 5 W&Cs he'd restored over the years.
If you want to fiberglass the bottom of a glued lapstrake canoe to add abrasion resistance, the time to do it is before you glue the strakes together. You can also mark a horizontal line on your forms about half-way up the canoe's sides and strip from the sheer line to a bit past the marks (with the forms in their upside-down position on the strongback, you would be stripping upward from the gunwale line) following the curve of the sheer.
You do need to be aware though, that when you mix a nice sweeping sheer line with a horizontal divider, half-way up the sides, there is often an optical illusion that happens.
For a traditional shape with a sweeping sheer, it works pretty nicely and at least mimics the traditional look in spirit. In the winter of 2012 a very good friend leant me an old copy of Nautical Quarterly. An article about Catboats caught my attention - I was and still am taken by their beautiful lines. So, what's on offer here is simply a set of line drawings that give sufficient information to determine the shape of the hull. This, and the associated documents provide information to determine the shape of a hull. No liability, (consequential or other) will be assumed for any losses arising from the use of these documents and drawings and no warranty is made, including that of fitness for purpose. The information contained in these documents and associated files are the copyright of Andrew Walters.
Strip Cedar is a method commonly used today for kayaks and canoes but as one of the main advantages is that practical any shape can be created, some very interesting multihulls have been built with the same concept. Basically, the boat is built 'core first', with a very simple building jig being used made up of station templates cut in plywood or chipboard from the designer's plans. Along with a description of the various steps, some of the pictures you will see are of a Farrier F-25A under construction—a fine example built by West Coast engineer Mike Wright, who kindly granted permission to use these images. As is typical of almost any home boat project, one starts with constructing a building baseframe (some call this, a strongback) on which transverse templates are positioned. Generally the designer supplies full size paper patterns for these frames and their shape is transferred over to the plywood along with a datum line or two, including the centerline of the part to the created. Between the stem and stern, there will typically be anywhere from 9 to 19 stations to set up on the frame.
These two beautiful 31' catamarans (designed by John Shuttleworth UK), were built by high-school students in Switzerland as an education project, under the instruction and guidance of their teacher and the designer himself.
Although the strip thickness will generally stay constant (½" for these 31' cats), they can also vary in width, with wider strips being used where the surface has less curvature flat. The sketch shown here (CLICK for a larger image) not only shows the cove and bead design, but also shows a premium 'classic' strip (at left) that is machined with a convex surface and used for some canoes where the bilge radius is tight. Typically, one starts by laying a strip around the hull roughly through the bilge area and then working from that strip towards both the keel and the gunwale. For small boats, one can use the inexpensive, cream, water-soluble, carpenters glue applied to the edge of each strip, although for a larger boat, it's more typical and stronger to use a thickened epoxy. If one selects to use a square edge rectangular strip (which is generally easier to prepare), then the self aligning feature is lost.
On a larger boat like this trimaran, it is generally considered more time-effective to build in most of the interior bulkheads and floor while the hull skin is still supported in the mould.
Although the process for building strip plank boats is really quite simple, it does take time, since everything is done by hand, with the surface added each time being relatively small. This F25A took about 2 years for the three hulls (part-time of course) but in this case, the three hulls were immaculately finished by a perfectionist (see later photo) and THAT can really burn up the hours.
The strength and stiffness of Kiri will likely also be about 15-18% less than red cedar, again something close to that of northern white cedar. Always keep in mind, particularly with coniferous trees, that there is often a significant variation in weight, strength and durability and that one needs to carefully check the stock from which you intend to buy.
Balsa was first used in boats back in the late 50s, shortly after FRP became popular, so this is not a new material by any means. First, for those not familiar with 'how' it's used, we need to understand that in the flat form as used for model planes etc, it would be almost useless for boats.
Balsa is light, comes from a replaceable resource (grows fast—mostly in Central America), gives good sound and thermal insulation and effectively damps vibration. But the major issue for a boat, is the infiltration of water because once it gets inside the pores, not only do the fine theoretical properties disappear but it's VERY hard to dry out if not impossible, and almost always results in rot over the longer term.


So faced with this dilemma, the balsa manufacturers came up with the concept of bonding a thin layer of gaboon mahogany over the balsa end grain (both sides) and then making this available either in sheets (for bulkheads etc) or in narrow pre-cut strips for hulls. But this end grain protection skin is still typically only 1⁄20" thick and during the sanding-fairing process, might well end up thinner than that or even none at all. The Baltek Corp that manufactures balsa sheets for boats, also produces a sheet of end-grain balsa that is flexible.
But a light multihull would not normally have such a solid layup and with thinner skins, the risk of water infiltration just increases.
While the test figures may indeed be correctly recorded, they do not consider the whole picture. The bottom line is that ideally, foams need to be closed cell to block all water transfer, be fatigue resistant and also able to absorb internal dynamic stresses as the sandwich gets pulled, pushed and sheared from various changing sail-induced forces and additionally pounded from waves and impacts at speed. Foams can also be used in strips and laid up over or within a mold, just as cedar or balsa strips are. To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions.
One of Moores' modern glass over WRC versions and an old shiplapped stripper with strips nailed to steam bent ribs. Using B&C strips helps tame those strips which exhibit peculiar habits and makes that part of the process go faster. Also, I doubt anyone with a nice old W&C canoe is going to scarifice it to the gods on some snag filled whitewater. But, on top his van was an old fiberglass beater that was just the ticket for banging on the boulders and scraping the bottom. Once past the horizontal markers, you lay a batten following the markers and cut off the stripped portion in a horizontal line. If you make the divider dead straight and level, it will usually look like it's ends curve downward, once the boat is finished. It can be done with either B&C or straight-edges strips, though your cut line will be a straight-edge joint. All of these sections are presented as scale drawings on a 2" grid. So, for those seriously interested, I can provide revised hull drawings, scaled as required for a relatively small extra charge.
These are not construction plans and no information is provided for the design of sails, centreboard, rudder and construction detail.
The fact that it uses wood along with relatively simple techniques and tools, permits builders of minimal skill to have success.
While canoes etc are built over a male station templates, multihulls are more typically built in a female mould representing ½ the completed hull, with an erection joint down the centerline (see later). The stem and sternpiece (or transom) are also cut out and these are generally the first parts to be set up on the building frame, as they define the fore and aft ends of the boat. Their height and location will be critical and they must be absolutely vertical and set up perfectly square to the centerline, as it is these sections that will dictate the hull shape and its symmetry. This will only occur IF the beads and coves are machined central to the strip itself, so one has to be very careful if machining these yourself (generally with a table mounted router), that the bead and cove are cut straight and consistently, down the center of the strip—not always an easy task.
So in order to keep each strip level with its neighbor, small pins are typically used to hold each new strip flush in place, either to its neighbor or to the mould itself. After all the strips are in place, one pulls all the nails and staples and cleans of any excess glue. At least the work is 'downhand', though considerable care must be taken to position parts precisely, as the two halves of the hull must line up accurately when assembled together.
However, it's a system that works well for those with only short periods of time available as one can simple add a pair of strips, leave them clamped and then take a break. But, other than the sanding and fairing, strip cedar construction is an enjoyable and rewarding experience. It's called Kiri (or Paulownia)) and comes from China, with initial exports presently going to Australia. As far as a comparison between Northern (or Eastern) white cedar and Western red cedar, it seems to depend on where you come from and what you're selling!—with the east claiming that Northern white cedar lasts longer than red cedar, while the west claim that their red cedar is stronger and more durable. You may find 'some' northern white cedar even heavier and stronger than 'some' western red cedar—though the reverse is more typical.
As it's still in use today, we need to take a look at just why that is, examine its performance—where it works and, where it doesn't.
This is achieved by bonding a scrim over the whole panel, but not bonding all the balsa pieces to each other. For example, one test 'proves without a doubt' that there's no transfer of water laterally through the cell walls. In this case they are generally bonded to each other and temporarily held in place with wooden tooth picks until the strip adhesive has cured sufficiently. Since the strips are only ?" thick the last thing you want are strips that sit high and low near each other. Glassing isn't a viable option because it's near impossible to get fiberglass to follow the undulations of the laps. Then you resume stripping with level strips, proceeding toward the turn of the bilge and either close in the bottom with a football panel or the beveled method where the strips eventually meet along the keel line.


However, the system is quite labor intensive and therefore best for one-off efforts and the completed boat generally somewhat heavier than competing systems that use a lighter core. The long abutting edges of the strips can either be square or can be pre-machined (typically by a bench-mounted router) with a rounded bead on one side and a matching cove in the other. If using staples, one should staple through a length of tape or packing strap, so that pulling on this tape later will greatly assist in removing these staples after the joint glue is hard.
Holes are filled, the surface sanded smooth and fair and then vacuumed clean of all dust prior to applying two coats of epoxy to seal the bare wood.
It will take between 100 and 200 hours for an amateur to complete a small boat but considerably more for a larger multihull.
You can probably save about 30% on hull material cost by making your own strips, but if they are not made well, you can take a LOT more hours to fit and fair them so each builder needs to carefully and honestly evaluate their personal abilities. For sure, red cedar is a much taller tree, so it's easier to get knot-free wood, but the sought-after red beauty of the wood does makes it more expensive. Once solid, now imagine slicing them up from one end to make slabs that look like kitchen cutting boards except that the slices might be only ½" thick. But coupled with a substantial fibreglass skin, this boat was heavier than Dick would have liked, though certainly built more resistant to water penetration than 'the average' balsa core boat. This product called ContourKore, has been used for 1000s of monohulls over the years, including the famous J-24s starting back in 1978. Fine—but when the bond to the skin breaks down, the water can readily spread to wherever it wants and soon soaks the whole area.
If you have deck areas or topsides that have virtually no through-skin penetrations, then balsa can serve well. Since the book has been around since 1983 and sold a gazillion copies somebody must have stripped their hulls the way you prefer.
Sometimes the stem is made up of laminations that are clamped in place to part of the building frame. By using a cove and bead strip, adjacent strips will stay aligned better while the glue hardens. Fiberglass cloth (typically a 6oz cloth for small boats but often a heavier bi-axial cloth for larger ones) is then laid on and epoxy worked through it until it is quite clear and transparent. As for all hull construction methods, regardless of the time taken, this part of the building is STILL a small part of the total so even if this system took TWICE as long as another, the additional percentage overall would be closer to 20%. For now the early feedback from Australia is good, as over there this wood is generally less expensive than their imported red cedar. If we lay these on the floor, we'd now have slabs that are more like a 20" square cork mat. Once wet, the structure then collapses under load and the whole area stays wet and rots, until it's opened up and replaced. It has produced thousands of relatively light, rigid, well performing boats—but boats whose lifespan is limited to how long water is kept out of the core. We did one once with dark redwood for the upper sides and light spruce below the horizontal, but I never got photos of it. Once cured, the work of fairing will continue and this is where the strip cedar system gets pretty labor intensive and raising lots of dust. Its estimated 15-20% lower strength will rarely be a problem as a core material, except that in areas of high compression, it might be prudent to use a denser wood, rather as you would with a foam core.
However they are quite small and less likely to fall out than the larger ones of the red species. If we stand on them, we are now standing on the end of what is now vertical grain and it's in THIS direction, that dry balsa can perform so admirably.
This certainly has helped to exclude moisture, and also keep in mind that most J-24s are dry sailed—not left afloat. Some of their test result graphs show balsa results far off the graph, whereas other materials are struggling to survive! It's worth drawing an accurate profile to get a preview and again, it takes some measuring to plan out your stripping, but it's not very hard work. If our 'mats' are now all joined together, we'll have 'a sheet of end-grain balsa' and that's what is sold in various forms and thickness, to be used as core material in fiberglass boats. In fact, that's not the way things have developed and we now see a resurgence of 'old' foams such as the semi-flexible PVC along with slightly more rigid SAN foams like Corecell doing very well despite the wealth of literature from balsa suppliers that shows these products as inferior.
In way of all through attachments, it's best to replace balsa core with something more solid and more water resistant as typically, that is where the problems begin. This is especially true when combined with the super thin skins resulting from the use of carbon fiber etc. What I'm talking about would look similar, except the top would be dark wood and the bottom light wood.




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