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Published 14.05.2014 | Author : admin | Category : Wooden Boat Building Kits

I'm currently building an 18' Catboat using strip planking- sorry, I'm traveling now, no pix on my laptop. A complete industry which also has been going on for decades exists in building strip plank. I've uploaded some pix (with a bit of trepidation and embarressment) of my 19' sport sailboat I'm building.
Location: Edinburgh Beautiful work - keep posting as much about this project as you can!!! Location: MASS Funny you should mention Flying Dutchman as that was the type of boat I wanted for this project.
Location: MASS I've actually completed planking the hull and have about half of the hull faired and sanded. I've got 5.8 OZ S glass cloth for the outside hull sheathing and will be ready to go Thanksgiving weekend if I get above 40 degree days. For a finish over the epoxy I'm going to try spraying a clear new 1 part 'water solubale' (not water based but it isn't as VOC nasty.
AS per usual my timetable for getting the fb sheathing on was unrealistic and I am still sanding. Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada If you've gotten it to kick with a heat gun, but its still loading the sandpaper, I'd guess that your ratio was off on that batch. Location: Queensland, Australia Can I ask how long it has taken you so far to build? Location: MASS I started in August and have worked about -20 25 hours per week ( about 400 hours) up until late December when the weather has slowed me.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Traditional strip planking is constructed over temporary mould frames using timber such as cedar, pine etc.
Got a Question or Comment ???click here for the comments page to add your comment on this article or review. A related method (our Stripper) uses strips of wood, edge-glued, faired, then coated inside and out with epoxy and fiberglass cloth. Ideally, planks are long enough to put on in one piece, but it usually doesn’t happen that way. Planking can begin at the keel and work toward the sheer or vice versa; or in the middle working toward the keel and the sheer. When starting at the sheer it is easier to fit the first planks, which is an advantage for first time builders.
In the case of a strip planked hull, fairing is a process of smoothing out the hull to give it a smoother (fair) appearance. Originally I was going to rip the boards on the table saw, but since I am single-handing the ripping I chose not to wrestle a long, heavy board on a powerful saw.
Since I will finish the inside of the boat bright (wood exposed) – I will thickness sand the inside face of the first layers of veneers. This method is often chosen because it seems like less work and the hull would be just as strong as cold modling. This construction sequence starts with building the ladder frame, on which we will set up the molds, transom, and stem. Since this will be a lapstrake boat, we'll build it over molds and put the frames in after the boat is planked and right side up. After we installed the skegs and sternposts, we coated the bottoms with a mixture of epoxy resin and graphite powder. After we rolled the boats over, we installed frames, a center seat with flotation, a stern deck, two circular blocks to support pedestal seats, and finished the gun'l.
The boats will be oiled with Cetol on the interior and painted Forest Green on the exterior.
We are located on the Snohomish River in the Pacific Northwest, about 20 miles north of Seattle. To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions.


I have learned a good bit about it already, I know how it's done, but I would like to see some more examples of it.
The strips are butted - sometimes coved & beaded - so that there are no gaps between strips. The object here is to attach the strips to the molds with little concern as to whether a gap exists. Have you ever built a strip planked boat larger than 10'-15' that was not a canoe or kayak? I had a hard time pulling all the nails cleanly, had some tear out and was more careless than I should have been with several tuffies and damaged the surrounding wood with my nipper dykes tugging at broken nails.
The reverse transom needs to be cut back and I have all my dagger board trunk construction, cockpit and deck stringers to go also. In this method the glue joints are less critical as the hull ends as a composite; the wood serving as a core. Bead and cove bits are available for shapers and routers, but if you intend to shape your own, it is best to rig up a long table on both sides of you shaper as the long thin pieces can be difficult to handle.
If forms are meant to be temporary, the edges should be covered with polyehtylene to prevent the planking from sticking to forms. The bottom planks become more difficult to fit, as longer and longer tapers are required at the keel. If the hull is to be painted this may not matter, however, if the hull is not fiberglassed, the planking pattern will most likely become visible through the paint.
The design of the Marsh Cat does not detail any structure (ribs) which could support Carvel. Since this is a small boat, we built the ladder frame on legs above a ladder frame for a larger boat. So far the most common thing I've found are different examples of kayaks and canoes but what I really want to know about is strip planking's applications in vessels larger than simple canoes and kayaks.
I have a couple of tight radius' near the stern at the turn of the bilge that should have been done with skinnerier planks but they faired out OK. I'm tracing them onto card stock carefully with all center lines and witness marks, cutting them out and then using the cardbaord patterns to trace out the profile on the wavy grained doug fir.
I was applying a skim coat of wood flour and WESt epoxy with the 207 'fast' cold weather hardener last week before thanksgiving. I'm debating whether I'll finish the entire hull clear or paint the bottom and boot stripe with part poly. The foam sheets are simply laid out to the full length of the vessel and either scarfed or butt glued together.
The glue joints only need to be rigid enough so that the hull can be faired and glass cloth applied without the hull deflecting from shape. Scarfing involves cutting the ends of the planks on a long bevel, lapping them, and gluing together. For thinner planks, you may find yourself abandoning fasteners as they are difficult to drive straight in the time allowed by the glue, and many of the nails will come out one side or the other. Squares of plywood are laid on polyethylene film, nailed through to hold planking to the form. It is important that the planking strips be held tight against the form in order to eliminate a lot of unnecessary fairing.
If the hull is to be finished naturally, the planking procedure should be chosen for appearance. Here we have the molds and stem clamped or screwed to the ladder frame, and the bottom plank installed on the setup.
This specialized epoxy coating will make a very slick, durable, and rather scratchproof surface for skidding the boats up and down the beach. This one will mount properly on the stern and be remote controlled by the pilot sitting in his swivel chair. We were in a big rush to get these boats on the truck for delivery and weren't able to get finished photos.
This is the method that is most common, and is pretty much required if one is going to finish the boat bright.


Then trowel on thickened epoxy the same way one would plaster a lathe and plaster house wall. While the stuff has been working great and my shop is at 40 degrees ambient for 8 hours after applciation, I had a real problem getting this batch to kick. The lumber used in the project shown below is bead and cove Western red cedar, ordered from Flounder Bay in Anacortes, WA.
Galvanized finish nails are frequently used but may not hold if the wood is soft and there is a lot of twist in the plank. The planking can be clamped to the form if cleats have been added to the perimeter of the form. It is usually necessary to use temporary fasteners into the forms or clamps to keep the hull shape.
Notice that the grain and scarfs in the bottom planks run athwartships, meaning at 90° to the length of the boat. I was merely filling a few holes and minor dings but I had to use a heat gun to get it to finally go after about two days. Yet honestly I am proud and vain enough to want to be able to 'show her pretty bottom' when she heals.
With modern epoxy adhesives, it is the glue and not the fasteners that holds the hull together.
Scarf joints should be glued on a flat surface and allowed to thoroughly cure before installing on the boat.
If the forms are plywood (usually the case) it is best to glue strips of wood around the perimeter of the form and trim to the form contour. During the planking phase, it is therefore important to keep the planks tight against the form so that you won’t have to remove too much to make the hull fair. Two half sheets of OSB will be temporarily screwed together and the station with be cut – slightly large.
We did that to make the bottom stiff enough to walk around on even though it will have no bottom frames. Knock down the worst of the backside bulges before it sets, then use a grinder, or large format disc sander to clean it up, interior and exterior. Overall I can finish her clear and be very vain about the topsides and even the bottom as she'll be dry sailed.
Now as I sand with my PC 6" RO sander using 80 and 100 grit I am having terriible loading problems. Theres a bit of resin cloudiness ( too cold during application) in one area aft on the bottom but other than that the clear finish is pretty good and I took tremendous pains to board sand the whole hull fair. If using thickened epoxy, the purpose of the fastener is to hold the plank in place until glue sets. This is why clamping strips are installed on the forms; so that stubborn planks can be pulled into place. Incidently, I some how managed to get very lovely alternate patterns of dark and light cedar without really trying.
I'm nearly ready for hull turning and have about 72 nprogress pictures I need to develop, scan and select a few for posting. If there are to be permanent bulkheads in the hull, the planking can be glued and permanently fastened to them. Before fairing I squeegeed 1 thin coat of wood flour thickened resin over the entire hull filling many of the 'grooves' from the bead and cove millwork joints.
Protect the surfaces of any permanent bulkheads with polyethylene film, as there is a lot of glue dripping. This method removes some of the objections of wood movement that Gartside comments on, but is a bit heavier, with all the extra resin. This was a very smart idea and the wood flour (from the belt sander) is a near perfect match filler for all the nail holes.



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