Wood boat floor repair winnipeg,building a chris craft barrel back,drift boat kits for sale cheap,pontoon boats for rent destin fl - Review

Published 26.08.2014 | Author : admin | Category : Wood Boat Plans

The damage often results in delamination, so tap the area with the back of a screwdriver to see the extent of the damage to the laminate. First off, when you locate the damage you will need to use a small saw to cut away the damage and the surrounding delaminated area (circles work best).
You will need to place some sort of “backing” in the hole for supporting the layers of fiberglass as you fix them. Next, it is time to begin the lay-up of the fiberglass layers (which you prepared in step five) and the polyester resin between them. Finally, remove the backer from the surface, fill the imperfections, and add gel-coat paste as needed.
Location: Indialantic, FL Need help to finish my restoration project I need some assistance please. After a long and painful exercise, my restoration project of a 19' center console outboard boat is close to being finished. I've made a mess of the inner liner, spilled some epoxy, drilled some holes, but still probably only affected 0.5% of the surface area.
I need to fasten to the deck, a leaning post, and clips to hold down a poly livewell tank under the leaning post.
The joint was made with self-drilling tapping screws with a small bead of white adhesive (came off easily, probably was silicone).
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Whether you require a custom prefabricated floor ready for installation, or the materials for construction, Maritime Wood Products offers a full range of wood flooring for yachts.
Maritime Wood Products offers a full range of wood flooring for yachts, from custom floors ready for installation, to the flooring materials required for construction. The completed custom prefabricated floor is delivered to your facility ready for final fitting and installation.
MARITIME Floor Panels are manufactured in rectangular sections to your bulk size specifications, and sanded to a uniform thickness. Maritime Wood Products work closely with production boat builders to provide everything needed for the successful installation of our products. Maritime Wood Products supports Just In Time (JIT) inventory and delivers flooring systems that improve manufacturing efficiency and quality. The materials we use in our Custom Interior Floors and Floor Panels are the finest available and go through a rigorous selection process. Our Custom Interior Floors and Floor Panels are constructed of solid wood, providing long-term durability and resistance to damage. Our "Teak & Holly" floors are constructed with the choicest Burma Teak planking and alternating strips of hard maple.
MARITIME Custom Interior Floors and Floor Panels eliminate the need to tediously hand lay a floor plank by plank.
To prepare a floor pattern that ensures your floor will be built as planned, please call us to receive detailed floor pattern instructions. For detailed instructions on installing MARITIME Custom Interior Floors, please click here.
Available custom-fitted or in panel form, MARITIME Interior Floors install quickly, and are always 100% solid hardwood for enduring beauty through the most extreme wear. My understanding is that the bottom of the wood should be glassed up with resin and cloth prior to install to seal the wood.
A lot of this is on the internet already but I can't seem to find anything about what type of cloth or mat to use, how heavy and how many layers. It depends,there are a lot of choices on how large of an area you want to do,and what you want to spend. You can use Polyester resin,you can use Epoxy resin,you have a choice of material ranging from mat,to stitch mat,and various weights.You can use plywood,or you can use balsa or foamcore. I have done a few,and work in the marine fiberglass and resin supply business.Send me a pm with the specs on what kind of boat and what you want to replace,and I'll be glad to help if I can. When doing the floor in my Sea Ray, I applied a thin (8oz?) layer of porous fiberglass cloth as the first layer over the cured, resin covered wood.


Never Done - I don't know exactly how many hours I have into the floor; I had to replace the transom in my boat and had a lot of other hurtles to overcome not related to the floor after the old floor was out. Well,if you do a proper job with the glass work the repair should last as long as you do.In almost all cases,it's not the resin or core that fails,it always because of poor glass work,or holes that were never sealed when mounting things like seats,rod racks,wiring,pumps,engine mounts etc.
As for the core,you're going to get all kinds of opinions on what to use,as you can already see from the replies so far.
Most of the decks,and restorations I've done,were with marine fir,or composites,but they really aren't necessary.The only difference between marine plywood,and the better grades of regular fir plywood,is that the marine ply has no voids in any of the plies,and often contains more plies,making it a stronger product. I also would not use Epoxy resin for your repair,(for the top part anyway) and I say that not because it's not better than polyester(it is),but because it's not necessary to use it in this repair.
It is much more expensive than a high quality polyester resin,and is overkill for what you are doing.Also epoxy resin will not wet out fiberglass mat,as it can't dissolve the binders in the mat that holds the fibers together.
There isn't a production boat builder on the planet that uses epoxy on their decks,and that includes all the high priced ones. I would use a high quality Polyester resin,not the junk that is sold in places like Home Depot,Lowes etc.They carry low quality resins,and some of it can be old and unstable. Good high quality polyester Resins do have a shelf life,and if stored properly,out of the sun and heat,you will have no problem with them.I routinely use resins that are more than six or eight months old with no problem. We carry resins from Polyesters,Vinylesters,Dions,and Epoxies in quantities from 55 gallon drums to 5 gallon,one gallon and quart sizes.
I think the best way for you to start is to cut out a small piece of the glass from the deck so that you can expose the core.Now you can assess the damage.
It may only be a small area of the core that is bad,you can tell by gradually removing the core until you hit dry wood. In many cases on a lot of boats,you'll find a core of plywood under the areas like seats where they had to install screws etc,and end grain balsa core under the rest of the deck. Many times you'll find that if you chisel out the rotted (peat moss)core,you'll hit a bottom layer of fiberglass,and often times you can bed in a new piece of core with some resin thickened with cabosil(thickening powder)or some hull and deck putty and then finish up by laying up some layers of mat or 1708 stitch mat(mat and double bias cloth)over it.
If you find that the whole deck is shot,then you'll have to remove it all and install a new one.Every boat is different so different procedures will apply. If you have a good solid stringer system that previously supported the deck,then it makes things a bit easier. You would need to cut your core(plywood or whatever)to size and prepare the bottom,before installing it back to the stringers or other attachment points.
There are lot's of ways to do it,you could waterproof the bottom by applying a prime coat of no wax polyester resin to the plywood,and after its kicked(cured a bit)lay up a layer of 6ox mat over it lay the mat dry on it then pour some resin on it and wet it out by using a roller to saturate all the material. Be especially careful to completely saturate the edges of the plywood with the epoxy,as plywood absorbs water on the edges like a sponge. You could put one layer of lightweight cloth over the epoxy,but it isn't necessary although it would be a bit of extra insurance to keep the plywood face from checking. If you thicken the gel coat to a ketchup consistency with some cabosil it will make a beautiful non skid surface. He's the type of guy who won't sell you what you don't need,and he can give you great advice with no bs. Actually, there is very little rot in my boat except for some small localized areas where screws when through the floor to hold the helm chair and a cabinet just behind it. Anyway, I'm just going to cut out an area right behind the helm seats about 5' x 5' and replace it with new marine plywood and glass it in - bottom and top side. 3) Also, in the 'finished' photo, is the white color up around the sides of the floor area paint or gelcoat? I would say that a possibility for the warpage in the floor was from wet and dry cycles with the high heat and humidity of the Florida environment. Just for ha ha's make sure you check every single area that you can see or feel under the deck and in the bilge to make sure nothing else is brewing under there.
What you have going on is very common,and I think that your making the right decision to replace only the small part that,s rotted. What you see in that photo is the finished results after I built the new engine beds and transom and tied the stringers back in. I'm going to pull the engines (twin 350's) then I'll be able to get right down in there for a better inspection.


Just curiously, why did you decide on gelcoat in the bilge and floor instead of two-part paint for everything?
Click on any image to view a larger photo; use your browser's BACK BUTTON to return to this page. Your boat’s floor can root over the years and so it becomes dangerous for you and your crew to move safely around the vessel.
If you fail to remove the wax, the grinding will get mixed with it and this will cause a weak bond.
Polyester resin usually requires one to two percent of hardener by its cumulative amount (or volume).
Never do more than four at a time, and make sure you compress them while also getting out all the bubbles; consider using a squeegee.
When filling a compartment with 2-part PU foam, make a top form out of a sheet of plywood, covered with plastic sheeting. You provide the cutting and fitting at your facility, and the panels are then ready for installation. We can visit your facility and help design, engineer and pattern a custom fit floor for your application. We select lumber and planking for each project individually to achieve the most consistent and uniform appearance. Floors and Floor Panels made without a substrate have major advantages: they weigh less, are easier to install, and eliminate a potential source of delamination.
They represent a major savings in on-site skilled labor hours and fabrication materials waste. Typical interior applications for our custom teak grates include showers, heads and bilge vents.
So if you have some plans to head out to the Pacific Northwest and would like to do some fishing while your out there go to the STS site and get all the info you need. Apply several layers of glass in alternating directions so the 'grain' of the glass is different between layers and seams are staggered.
Continue layering up until the repair is flush, and then finish it by cutting some mat and cloth. If you have skilled carpenters available, MARITIME Floor Panels are a cost-saving alternative to a MARITIME Custom Interior Floor. We work within your production schedule and are responsive to time-sensitive orders and changes. And they speed up installation for both new construction and refits, freeing valuable space and dramatically reducing the time a vessel is out of service.
We also sell notched and flat teak grating stock in 1" and custom thicknesses for builders fabricating their own teak grates.
Perfect for most structural work, such as tabbing bulkheads, bilge stringers, knees, and most any other structural fiberglass hull repairs). It is very important to assess the damage correctly so you don’t start the repair and by the time you are done you realise you forgot to renovate the foundations for the floor. Moisture can start to build up inside the fiberglass cover and just imagine what will come out in a few years.
This forces the foam into the shape you want it in and creates a tough skin next to the plastic, and saves you from having to cut off any foam that spews over the boundaries. Check out the Fiberglass How-To Guide and Basic Fiberglass Molding Techniques to get a general idea on what you have to do. The edges of the putty are cracking away from the surrounding fiberglass, and the reflective cracking looks like it needs to be fixed so it won't surface when refinished.
When the liner was flipped over, I filled the screw holes from the deck side with thickened epoxy.



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