Steve's Nova Site is an automotive enthusiast website dedicated to the 1962 - 1979 Chevrolet Nova, Chevy II and Acadian automobiles. I think I read somewhere that both those crate engines will rate lower depending on what headers you attach. I'm running the ZZ4 cam in my car and it's great on the street, but doesn't have the guts to make it a truly stellar performer at the track. I'm toying with replacing the cam with something a bit better suited to the rest of my combo and needs. I went with the Fastburn and am very pleased with it, I figure the time and the hassle you go through its not worth it and then you got wonder it if the machine shop boys done everthing right, don"t get me wrong by the time you add everthing up it will be close to the same price.
I have had two motors built back when I was younger and they didn't even come close to what I have now.
Originally Posted by 95mysticta Not so sure you are going to need all that compression for a street based motor.
Originally Posted by fex77k Don't use those Mr Gasket Copper gaskets I showed you, they really really suck.
I bought another brand new set of headers from Summit and sent it to Sanderson Headers in California to have the flange replaced for the Fastburn "D" port style. Left is the set I had last year ( 2009 ) on the car and right are the new one I was running this year ( 2010 ) .
They should match better the LE2 heads with the fastburn "D" style exhaust port then the regular "O" style flange.


These AHC small-block Chevy tight fit headers are the most universal steel tube headers available.
Vintage style street rods are hotter than ever, and nothing gives your fenderless rod an authentic dry lakes competition look like a set of lakester headers.
NOTE: Stainless header tubing when exposed to exhaust temperature will cause the finish to change color which will vary with the exhaust temperature.
We work together to preserve, restore, drive, show, race and provide fellowship for these classic cars.
This is not my new built motor this is a bone stock LT1 I have for spare just in case if things goes wrong. These lake style header kits allow you to build your own weld up headers and tailor them to your vehicle. Please note that the finish of the header when the engine is started, will change to a light champagne color to a darker gold finish and in some instance may even turn dark blue or purple.
This is one of the best places to find information about parts, rebuilding, restoration and racing. I would buy one again in a heartbeat but would really take a close look at the 383 with the fast burn heads.
They are a favorite for street rods, as well as many 1950s and 1960s cars and vintage trucks.
Block hugger headers are ideal for street rod engine swaps and can make tight installations easy.


Headers include gaskets, collector reducers with a 2" diameter outlet, and stainless steel installation hardware.
This can be polished back out when utilizing Blue-away or Simi-chrome polish, but please note that when the headers reach running temperature again, they will immediately change color. These headers are copies of the original headers on the 62-63 Corvettes and can be used on almost any small block application.
In other words the advertised torque and HP numbers wont be the same at the crank and even less at the rear after parasitic loss.
These ceramic coated headers provide superior performance and durability.Tight Tuck headers are the solution to many problems associated with engine swaps in modern street rods. They tuck in close to the engine block to provide clearance for frame rails, steering boxes and motor mounts, but please see dimension chart to verify fit for your application. The cast in brackets are for the water tank on the drivers side and generator bracket on the passenger side. Most headers are manufactured from durable 16-gauge tubing and comes complete with gaskets, header bolts and collector reducers.




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Comments »

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