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Given enough repetitions, owners can quickly become like a boss that is always ending fun and piling on extra tasks.
Rewards, technically called reinforcements, are also problematic when owners reward the wrong behaviour. Gradually, practice in more distracting environments such as the yard, on walks and at the park.
Choose to exercise your dog early in the morning or late in the evening when it is cooler outside. Whatever you do, provide adequate protection from the sun and give access to cool clean water at all times. From the author of Me and Earl and the Dying Girl comes a novel about music, love, friendship, and freedom. If he’s approaching something dangerous like a road, he HAS to come back to you immediately.
Parents, other dog owners, and joggers (rightly) expect your dog to come back to you the second he bothers them. Every time your dog is being a pain, you’re giving anti-dog lobbyists more ammunition, and dogs will be less and less welcome in public spaces.
Nothing is more irritating than waiting for His Excellence to be good and ready when you’re in a rush or on a rainy day. I see this easily vicious cycle develop all the time: poor recall, less trust, less freedom, poorer recall, even less trust, even less freedom, etc.
Put all your received ideas about dominance aside for one moment, and really look at how dogs interact.
If the dog fails, go back a step, and practise, practise, practise until it’s perfect. Start practising at home, then in environments with gradually more distractions and temptations. When practising the off-leash recall, get increasingly picky with the speed of response by giving a juicier rewards for speedier performances. Safety note: When teaching the recall, only  practice in safe places, where the dog is in no danger, and poses no hazard to anyone. Hold the treats between the thumb and index finger, pointing upwards, so it is obvious to the dog you are holding something (even at a distance). Your dog does something really stupid (mounting a picnic blanket, provoking a Pit Bull , you name it). Also, every time your command fails, it becomes that little bit less relevant to your dog, it loses a little bit in meaning (as it wasn’t actually followed by going back to you). Avoid the situation (temporarily, until you’ve practised, practised, practised up to that level.
When the dog comes back to you, avoid stroking him, patting his head, scruffing up his hair, etc.
Think back of your grandmother’s wet kisses, or when she was scruffing up your hair or pinching your cheek. I can guarantee that he won’t prefer your touch over a juicy treat when coming back to you. Those could be subtle signs that he’s not enjoying it so much, which could make him that little bit less keen to come back to you. For the smartie pants asking how I know the dog is not slowing down or sniffing around because of some genuinely interesting smell, rather than a diversion tactic, do the test. To keep your dog on his toes and wanting to regularly check in on you, make sure you are sometimes unavailable.
This entry was posted in Dog training and tagged dog recall, dog training, dressage, dressage de chiens, hondentraining, rappel, recall.
I was just talking about recall on my blog recently because of the big buzz around an uber expensive online recall class happening. Reason I do this is that in an emergency situation, especially if it’s not ME that manages to get close to the dog, I want anyone to be able to just grab that collar. I tried to find the promo videos the instructor made for it but I think she’s taken them down now that the course has started.
I’ve done everything suggested in your great article, and I also turn every recall into a game which has helped.
What you have here is the competition between two motivations, and the motivation to get to you has to be greater than to play with the dog.
Do this one several times a day too, until he gets more reliable, then decrease the distance to the dog. So then it becomes a question of management: at times when you just know that the distractions will be too much and she will dart away, then she has to be either on-leash or in a completely fenced off domain. I have just read your recall blog – I love the way you’ve written it, very humorous and also some really good tips in there some of which I intend to share with my group dog training class this weekend! I am patient when working with him however I am very frustrated with myself that I have been trying the proper methods and positive reinforcement however i am losing the battle against sniffing, other dogs, birds etc. Any advice would be great as I would love for him to run and be free sometimes and we build a bond of trust in him knowing that coming back is a good thing and he will get to go back to playing.


PS; In one of your comments a saw you mention some sort of high pitched way of calling your dog.
Hi I have a 13 month Siberian husky who is neutered male , he recall has been brilliant until now especially when he sees other dogs , I know this breed is very hard to train recall but I determined to do this , should just start from scratch again . To get a dog to come shen she's called, you must follow a few rules that include rewarding her generously when she performs the command promptly and correctly.
Invariably, life’s distractions are far more fun than coming to an owner who wants to go home.
Traditionally, in competition obedience, dogs learn to walk in heel position on the left side of the owner. Please note, that off-leash use of this skill is dependent upon the breed of dog you have.  While Labradors and Setters may be very good at this skill, while certain types of hound dogs may chase after a squirrel or rabbit for miles.
Dogs quickly learn that a€?come,a€? means a€?catch me if you cana€? if owners chase unco-operative pets.
Even with such precautions, be mindful of factors such the humidity and the breed of dog you own. Enabling JavaScript in your browser will allow you to experience all the features of our site. If he is rough-housing with his mates, you’re going to have to get the big (motivational) guns out. You won’t be this imposing mass towering above him when you bend over to attach the leash.
The more agitated you get, the more they try to appease you, the more they slow down, the more agitated you get, etc. We really mean well, but only a minority of dogs will see it as rewarding when working, from what I can see. I’ve this secret recall-when-all-else-fails-warcry (I sound like a maniac when I use it, but it works) that always works. If playing with other dogs is his absolute favorite thing in the world, you need to step right up on the treat ladder. Sometime (often) let him play for quite a while, and only call him when he’s looking bored with playing (chance of him coming way higher, and a good habit reinforces itself).
If she’s REALLY driven by her chase drive, it would take a muuuuuuuch more tempting treat than whatever you can offer to get her to come back to you. It’s tricky as their perception is vastly superior to ours when it comes to detecting an interesting smell, but you could also try to look for very subtle, precursor signs of alertness in her body language. The thing is, someone could get really scared of a loose GSD and something really regrettable could happen in their panick.
He’s great in the lead with consistency but however his re-call even on the practice (30 ft long lead) is not even close to 1 out of 15 recall practices. My greatest fear (more like a phobia now) is to ruin (or decrease the speed of) the recall she already has.
Will training under distractions affect the speed of our current recall or how its imprinted in my dog’s head? The most important reward owners can give is the freedom to engage in preferred activities.
This way, owners can direct the dog to either side, away from approaching people or obstacles. Slowly increase the distance within your house, farther away each time.  Go into a different room and call the dog. Similarly, calling a dog and then ending his playtime at the park is a punishing consequence. You can also do search games where dogs use their nose to sniff for hidden toys and treats. It has been SO hard for me to learn to keep my hands to myself because I just want to shruffle him all over. We don’t have a fence, and he recently graduated from being outside on a run with me, to off leash. I’d ask your vet for the most pallatable training treat he can advise that will not contribute to her upsets. I am uncertain of him being not fixed is the case, however I do not believe that fixing a dog will solve all my problems.
Maybe I read too fast, but I haven’t read of any actual problem encounter with other dogs, right, and he’s really placid during the training class, right? With the training school and the postgraduate course (applied behaviourism), it’s been quite the race! She is quite reactive to dogs (but it doesn’t really bother me as there are only a handful where I live) and will likely chase small animals when highly exited (I am working on that). Should the dog refuse to come when called, owners can walk toward the dog, reeling in the leash, as they get closer.
For example, if a dog comes when called out of play with other dogs, send her back for more play. By teaching multiple behaviours, owners have multiple choices that can be used depending on their immediate needs.


Come!”)  It is important to sound excited when you shout this command because you want your dog to feel like it is more fun to be where you are than what they are doing at the moment. By breaking one treat into many, your dog feels like he has gotten a larger reward than he actually has. My Dog Doesn’t Come When CalledJanuary 8, 201514 Comments Tweet EmailI’m sure we’ve all experienced at one time or another a dog that doesn’t listen.
All was great for a few days, he stuck next to me and my German Shepherd who has perfect recall. He is absolutely brilliant apart from the recall which is one of the more essential elements I feel is critical to training.
I called my dog but he is at the stage where his recall is getting good- but he still is super excited when he sees other dogs to play with. She is perfect on leash, when a get her into a stay and call her or when I get someone to hold her and call her. When your dog doesn’t come when called, it can be frustrating, embarrassing and in some cases, downright dangerous. If you search on youtube for Garrett recallers or garrett 5 minute formula you will see some examples of what they work on. One thing led to another, and he was in a neighbors yard, smelling their flowers, then the next house, etc. So if they see a large dog running towards them, they don’t want to take any chances. And, yes, if your dog loves other dogs and approaches them running, it’s totally understandable too. She takes off like a lightning and runs to me for a quite long distance under mild distractions. The dog should only take the toy when given permission, and it should drop it immediately if asked to do so. Even the best trained dog can occasionally get distracted by an unusually interesting scent or an intense game of chase with a cat or squirrel, but we want our dogs to reliably come when called.Since January is National Train Your Dog Month, it’s a good reminder to spend some time training or reinforcing those important commands like Come. The lady by the time I got to her and got my dog on the lead was crying and screaming that my dog was nasty. I try to avoid situations when I know she wouldn’t listen at all costs and try to keep her recall nice and fast. The Come command not only helps build a strong bond between you and your dog, but it can be a lifesaver if you ever need to call your dog away from a dangerous situation.If you have a puppy to train, great! Only that’s enough to scare other people and dogs when your dog happenes to be, like mine used to be, a massive giant. Come is one of the first commands you’ll want to teach after teaching your puppy their name. Young puppies automatically like to follow you around, so it’s easier to train now before they become more independent. I decide I need to hurry home and get on shoes (this was supposed to be a potty break!) and when I get them on and head back out- there he is at my back door! You’ll work on increasing the distance later.Try working with your dog on a leash if she wants to wander away instead of coming to you.
Most dogs are food motivated, but some may prefer affection or a favorite toy.Using a partner or multiple people, take turns holding the dog while the next person excitedly runs away from the dog then gives the Come command. Avoid this common scenario: An owner calls his dog repeatedly and the dog happily ignores the command, which is frustrating, right? Then, when the dog finally decides to come, the owner reprimands or punishes the dog for not listening and failing to come when called. The mistake here is, the dog associates the scolding with coming to the owner, not with failing to listen and the result is a breakdown of trust with the owner.
I never do let them off lead unless in a fenced area, but having a good solid recall is still important in case they ever get out the door or escape the leash. I then do a few stretches, put my grey cells in gear, put my headphones on and TAKE OFF!I Speed across the road, round the flats, in and out of everyone’s garden. Come is one of the biggest problems, because dogs are just dogs, and they like to be dogs and run around and chase that squirrel when we are calling them.
A lot of commands and training exercises can even be worked into your regular daily routine.
We use here in stead of come but it is much needed when out hunting to pull them off of something.
It must be a lot of fun to train and then spend time together hunting outdoors with the dogs.




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