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Dogs need new experiences with other people, dogs and places, when very young to get socialized.
Dogs need successes and less correction before full maturity so they can develop confidence. Train your dog in order to establish communication and give it purpose, and make it tolerable. Dogs need to be in a dominance hierarchy with everyone; if you are not above your dog, you will be below it. She uses praise, contact, play and toys to motivate puppies, but she does not recommend food training a young puppy. The monks of New Skete have put together an excellent book that discusses puppy development and the things that should be done at the appropriate stages and why. There are always exceptions, of course, and there are many happy dogs dogs that were litter mates or otherwise puppies together out there. You should consider that a puppy has an absolute right to chew whatever they can get at in your absence.
There are some products that can help make items unpalatable and thus aid in your training. For example, every evening before the dog eats (but after you have put its bowl down), check its ears by peeking in the ear and touching it with your fingers.
Brushing is important, especially for double coated or long-haired dogs when they begin to shed. During your puppy's first year, it is very important that it be exposed to a variety of social situations. Do not commit the classic mistake made by many owners when their dogs exhibit fear or aggression on meeting strangers. The Art of Raising a Puppy has many valuable tips and interesting points on the subject of socializing puppies. Your puppy doesn't seem to pick up the idea of whining at or going to the door to tell you it needs to go to the bathroom. If you watch a litter of puppies playing, you will notice that they spend much of their time biting and grabbing each other with their mouths. The first thing to teach your new puppy is that human flesh is much more sensitive than other puppies and that it really hurts us when they bite. The above training methods have been modified from information that I learned from Dr Ian Dunbar in his puppy training seminars and from his excellent video 'Sirius Puppy Training' which is available by calling 510-658-8588.
Puppies that cannot sleep in the bedroom for whatever reason may be comforted by a ticking clock nearby, and a t-shirt of yours from the laundry. Newborn puppies receive immunization against diseases from colostrum contained in their mothers milk while nursing (assuming the bitch was properly vaccinated shortly before the breeding took place). During this time, puppies cannot build up their own natural immunity because the passive immunity gets in the way.
Thus the importance of giving several vaccinations at 2-4 week intervals until around 16-18 weeks. IMPORTANT: The last shot should be given AFTER 16 weeks of age (4 months) to be SURE that dam's antibodies have not gotten in the way of the pup building up its own immunity (read the label of the vaccine!). Make some chicken soup (low sodium variety or make it yourself) ice cubes and give them to the puppy. Soak a clean rag in water, wring it out and then freeze it (rolling it up helps) and give it to your puppy to chew on. If you are using the latter type of puppy food, many veterinarians and breeders (particularly of larger breeds) recommend that you NOT feed it for the first year as is recommended on the bags of food. This is not a problem with the more closely formulated foods that have adult foods that are specifically labelled as unsuitable for puppies or lactating bitches. The idea is to take advantage of a rule of dog behavior: a dog will not generally eliminate where it sleeps. Dogs that are in crates that are too large (so the dog can eliminate at one end and sleep at the other end).
Dogs that have lived in small cages in pet stores during critical phases of development and have had to learn to eliminate in the cage. If the crate is too big (because you got an adult size one), you can partition the crate off with pegboard wired to the sides to make the crate the correct size, and move it back as your puppy grows.
To house train a dog using a crate, establish a schedule where the dog is either outside or in its crate when it feels the need to eliminate. In general, consistency is MUCH more important than severe corrections when training a dog.
First rule of housetraining: puppies have to go to the bathroom immediately upon waking up. With these two rules goes the indisputable fact that until a puppy is housetrained, you MUST confine them or watch them to prevent accidents. Make it aware that this is not play time, but understand that puppies get pretty excited about things like grass and snails and leaves and forget what they came outside to do! To make life easier for you later on, use a key phrase just when the puppy starts to eliminate. It is essential for every dog, no matter how big, or small, or whether you want to show, or work, or just play with, to have basic obedience training.
Try to keep the first couple of days at home low key as your new puppy gets used to ita€™s new surroundings. Before you put your new puppy in ita€™s crate for the night, play with puppy a lot and wear puppy out. French Valley Ranch's Giant Schnoodles and Miniature Schnauzers - THIS IS A MUST READ BEFORE YOU DECIDE TO BUY A PUPPY FROM ANY BREEDER OR PERSON!!WE AREN'T JUST HERE TO SELL A PUPPY.
Helping your dog build a positive association towards you at the park is a MUST when teaching your dog to come. You will need to condition your dog to the click or word so that it associates this tool with getting food. The marker is a very powerful tool when used correctly, so make sure that your timing is spot on.
Teaching your dog to look at you when you say its name is the first step in teaching your dog to come to you at the park.
Practise positive name recognition at home first, by reinforcing your dog with its favourite treats when you say its name. Collar grabs are a great way to teach your dog that reaching for its collar and holding onto it (the collar) is as a positive action and not negative or scary. All that you need to do is sit cross-legged on the floor with your training pouch full of treats, your maker, and your dog. Now that you have introduced three fundamental steps (the marker, positive name recognition, and collar grabs) to your dog, it is time to add the “recall” into the mix. Have a treat ready, crouch down and when your dog reaches you, do a collar grab (say the word “collar”) and do not let go of the collar until your dog has finished its high value treat. Once your dog has finished the treat, let go and continue walking, don’t clip the leash on. If you have success with mixing positive name recognition, the marker, and collar grabs after a few training sessions, then you can start adding the word “come” into the mix. When your dog looks at you, start walking away (keeping an eye on your dog by looking back over your shoulder). Randomly clip the leash on, give your dog a treat and let them off again so that your dog cannot predict when you are going to head home.
Let your dog have a sniff, and play with other dogs — this is their time at the park to do what dogs love to do naturally and instinctively. Michelle O'Brien started her career at the age of 14 as an Animal Attendant and in her early 20’s became a Veterinary Nurse.
Michelle's training qualifications centre around positive reinforcement methods, being a Delta Canine Good Citizen Trainer and gaining a Certificate IV in Companion Animal Services. We have just started to visit off-leash parks with our dogs (should have done it sooner!) and we are working on our recall skills. We have been working on the recall skills and as you have mentioned by using treats and calling back regularly throughout the play time and not just when it’s time to go home. My partner gets frustrated when the dogs do not listen and the tone of his voice changes to sound stern.
Recall is something that every dog needs to learn so that they can enjoy some fun time running around and socialising with other dogs at the dog park!
She does recommend crate training and she also recommends sleeping in the same room with the puppy. This is a thoughtful book that discusses in practical detail what you can and cannot expect to do with your puppy in training it.
First they follow a newborn litter through its various stages of development and at each stage they discuss what is happening. They tend to bond to each other and not to you and that can cause serious problems when it comes time to train them. You must put the puppy where either it cannot do any damage, or you do not care about the possible damage.


A crate is any container, made of wire mesh or plastic, that will hold the puppy comfortably, with enough room to stand and curl up and sleep, but not too much that it can eliminate in one corner. You should think of it in the same way as child-proofing your house but be more thorough about it.
Bitter Apple and Bitter Orange (available at most pet stores) impart a bitter taste to many things without staining, etc. Small children do not understand the need for keeping fingers out of puppies' eyes or refraining from pulling painfully on their tails, among other problems. They should understand that they should put out their hands below the pup's chin, to keep it from jumping at a hand above its head. Try Jack and Collen McDaniel's Pooches and Small Fry, published by Doral Publishing, 800-633-5385. Sometimes it takes several weeks before you consistently get a reaction when you say its name.
You need to pair verbal praise with physical praise for a few months before your puppy understands and appreciates verbal praise. Puppies need lots of sleep but since they are easily distracted, they sometimes forget to go to sleep and so will fall asleep at bizarre times: while eating, chewing, or even running.
Initially, during their first 24 hours of life, maternal antigens (passive immunity) are absorbed through the pups intestines which are very, very thin during those first few hours (this is why it is so important that puppies nurse from the mother during that critical time).
One maximizes the chance of catching the puppy's immune system as soon as it is ready to respond, minimizing the amount of time the puppy may be susceptible to infection. After that, it should be DHLPP (Distemper, Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza and Parvovirus). If you know that a particular dog is current on its shots and not carrying disease, then go ahead and let your puppy socialize.
Your puppy will want to chew more during this period of time, but it may also be too painful to do so (hence the suggestions above). They recommend that you feed puppy food ONLY for the first two months that you have the puppy at home and then switch to adult food.
Some owners correct more severely inside, but this is extremely detrimental to the character of puppies. Since you know when your dog has to eliminate, you take it out and it eliminates immediately, and is praised immediately. Before a dog understands what you want, severe corrections are not useful and can be quite DETRIMENTAL.
Understand that a puppy cannot go all night without eliminating, so when it cries in the night, you must get up and take it out and wait until it goes.
Use the same spot each time if you can, the smell will help the puppy remember what it is to do, especially after 12 weeks of age. He discusses all aspects of housetraining puppies and dogs, giving many constructive solutions for all kinds of specific problems. In fact, waiting until your pup is 6 months old to start training it is VERY late, and will be the cause of a LOT of problems. You may feel like this is engaging in wild mood swings (and you may well get odd looks from other people); that's all right.
WE ARE HERE TO HELP YOU MAKE AN INFORMED CHOICE (NO MATTER WHAT BREED YOU ARE LOOKING FOR) AND HELP GIVE POINTERS ON PICKING A BREEDER.
Clipping the leash on and taking your dog home every time you call them is one of the main reasons why dogs bolt in the opposite direction, as it is teaching the dog that “come” means home time. All that you need to do is sound the clicker, or say the word, and then pop a treat into your dog’s mouth. Only mark the desired behaviour, if your timing is out you will confuse your dog and reinforce incorrect behaviours.
If you have trouble getting your dog to look at you when you say its name, you are going to struggle even more when trying to recall it at the park.
By doing this your dog will be more inclined to look at you at the park when you call out its name, making the recall (getting your dog to come) an easier task.
It will save you when you recall your dog and need to hold onto the collar to clip the leash. This way, if I need to grab my dog’s collar to pull her out of a hairy situation at the park, she will hear “collar” and know that it is me grabbing her collar and not another dog. Take your dog, training pouch, high value treats, and marker to a quiet park that is safe (if you are worried about having your dog off-leash, then use a 10 metre lead to test your dog’s focus). Make sure that you add it in when your dog is already moving towards you, as you want your dog to link the word “come” with the motion of moving towards you. Dogs are very smart animals, if the only time you grab the leash is to clip it on and take your dog home, it will be less likely to come to you.
Use collar grabs when you need to move your dog away when playing, rather than recalling your dog, as it is likely that you will be unsuccessful. Her dog training career started 12 years ago when she was offered the opportunity to run puppy preschool classes.
Michelle is also a member of the Delta Professional Dog Trainers Association and is currently studying a Bachelor of Science majoring in Brain, Behaviour and Evolution (Animal Behaviour) through Macquarie University.
I am pretty confident that our Pug Chowski will always come back but we have been a bit hesitant with the newest addition – Killa. I have to remind him to pretend to sound happy and enthusiastic even when he is getting a little annoyed because the pups respond better to a fun voice!
She provides methods to teach no, OK, good dog, bad dog, sit stay heel, come, down, stand, go, enough, over, out, cookie, speak, take it, wait and off to puppies. They stress that by expecting and improving good behavior from the start, later, more formal training goes much easier. They discuss testing puppies' temperaments and what you want to look for, under which circumstances. Having two puppies needing house training at the same time can make that process go on for much longer.
Puppies can eat kitchen cabinets, destroy furniture, chew on carpet, and damage a wide variety of other things. Depending on the breed, most dogs begin to gain the maturity to handle short stints with mild temptations when they're about 6 months old.
The single most effective way to do this is by having a ready supply of chewable items on hand.
You should not depend on these products to keep your puppy safe, but use them as a training aid. So keep children 6 years or so and younger away from the puppy until it is grown, for the safety of the puppy. This book is full of good suggestions for teaching both children and dogs how to behave with one another. Taking the time to make these things matter of fact and pleasant for your puppy will save you a world of time and trouble later in its life. Take it to different places: parks, shopping centers, schools, different neighborhoods, dog shows, obedience classes--just about anywhere you can think of that would be different for a little puppy. Twitching will be most pronounced for the first few months of the puppy's life, and slowly diminish thereafter. When you take a puppy from the litter and into your home, the puppy will play bite and mouth you.
This will probably not stop the puppy from mouthing, but over time should result in softer and gentler puppy biting.
Thus, if you scold your puppy for doing things you don't want it to do, and ignore it when it is being good, you are reinforcing the wrong things. When a puppy becomes separated from its pack it will whine, thereby allowing it to be found and returned to the rest of the group. At this time, the pups should be given their first immunization shots so they can build up their own antibodies against them.
This is at minimum: you may need to add other vaccinations appropriate to your area, such as Lyme, Heart worm (actually a preventive medicine), Rabies (most places), and so on. Then the molars in the back come out (and you'll see adult molars behind those erupting as well).
You will probably find few if any of the teeth your puppy loses, as puppies typically swallow them.
Scheduled feeding gives the dog food at set times of the day, and then takes it away after a period of time, such as a half hour. Some are formulated very precisely for different periods in a dog's life, and what is appropriate at one stage is not appropriate at another.
To make the dog notice the difference between eliminating inside and outside, you must praise more outside rather than correcting more inside. Crating allows the owner to have total control over the dog in order to achieve consistency. The puppy will begin to eliminate on command, and this can be especially useful later, such as making sure the dog eliminates before a car ride or a walk in the park.
If no accidents occur (ha!), then the dog never learns it has an option other than going outside.


Instead, concentrate on general behavior, getting its attention, introducing things that will be important later in a fun way, and some other preliminary things, such as discouraging it from lagging or forging on the leash (but not making it heel!). Fun and food should help your dog make a positive connection with you at the park, rather than running in the opposite direction at the sound of your voice. Be unpredictable about clipping the leash on, and look at the recall as more of a checking in system, rather than using it to take your dog home. She talks about canine language and talks some about mental games you can play with your dog such as mirror games, and copying your dog and having him copy you, chase games and even playing rough with your puppy. This implies that you would not introduce a second dog before the other six months old and properly trained. Other solutions include fencing off part of the house, say the kitchen or garage or building an outside run.
Consider the analogy with a baby, where you keep it in a crib, stroller, or pen if you are not holding it.
This means that the puppy can cause you to be uncomfortable when mouthing or puppy biting you, but can not cause severe damage. Ignore the bad things (or stop it without yelling or scolding) and enthusiastically praise it when its doing what you want, even if it's as simple as sitting and looking at you, or quietly chewing one of its toys.
Others are generically formulated and are supposed to be OK for any dog under any conditions. The nutritional formulation (especially the extra protein and calcium) can actually cause problems in puppy development. In addition, the dog is always supervised in the house, so the dog is always corrected for eliminating indoors. One way to think of it is that without basic obedience, you and the dog don't speak the same language so how can you communicate? It also needs positive as well as negative reinforcement: how would you respond if people only ever yelled at you when you did something wrong?
Once your dog realises that you calling it at the park means positive things (such as BBQ chicken) you should see a major improvement in your dog’s recall.
Most training methods rely on the foundational relationship between an owner and his dog, and this book provides some ideas on establishing that relationship while the puppy is still young. They then launch into a series of useful chapters: housebreaking, preliminary obedience, laying the foundations of training, understanding (reading) your dog, how to become the pack leader, basic training, discipline, and general care. If you can get through the puppy stages without having your pup get a shock from chewing a wire you are doing a great job! If you are consistent about this, the puppy will get the idea that only the things you give it are to be chewed on!
If the puppy continues to whine, try giving it a toy or chew toy and then simply ignore any continued whining. This is why pups should be given a shot every few weeks (2 - 3 weeks apart and a series of at LEAST three shots).
Since it is very common for puppies (even from the best breeder) to have worms from the dam's dormant worms, you must take care to have your puppy checked regularly when young. Therefore, until they are about four or five months old, you can only encourage good behavior and try to prevent bad behavior. But with basic obedience, you can tell the dog what you want it to do and it will understand you and do it.
You'd be amazed at all the activities you can do with your dog once you and the dog learn the basics! Tie the puppy down in sight of people eating dinner to prevent begging and nosing for food (if you put it in another room, it will feel ostracized and begin to cry). When puppy proofing your home, get down on your hands and knees (or lower if possible) and consider things from this angle. If you want to take the pup in an elevator, let it try it on its own, but firmly insist that it have the experience.
But it is very important: you will wind up with a puppy that pays attention to you and is happy to do what you want, if it understands you.
If you don't reinforce the whining by comforting it (other than to take it outside -- which is OK), it will eventually learn to settle down.
In general, vaccine antigen cannot stimulate the puppy's own immune system until the maternal antibody level is below X.
Another way to think of it is getting your dog to be a Good Citizen: it doesn't jump on people, or run off, or indulge in other obnoxious behaviors -- because it knows what you expect of it.
It is better to let them cry it out during the day instead of the night when you want to sleep. WE PUT UP THIS WEBSITE AT THE REQUEST OF PREVIOUS CUSTOMERS WHO WANTED TO BE ABLE TO LOOK FOR UPDATES EASILY ON WHAT WE HAD COMING UP FOR WHEN THEY OR THEIR FRIENDS WANTED ANOTHER ONE.THE MAJORITY OF OUR PUPPIES AND ADULTS who GO TO NEW HOMESA  ARE PICKED UP AT OUR HOME WHERE YOU GET TO VISIT WITH THE PARENT DOGS AND SEE HOW AND WHERE YOUR PUPPY IS RAISED.
Your favorite dog food and supply store (unless it's a pet store) is a good place; dog shows are another.
But for other dogs, such as dogs with gastric problems or older dogs, frequent small meals may be better for them.
These are packed even higher with extra nutrition, etc, than the puppy really needs, since the original formulation was already sufficient for the puppy. The growth rates are not the same and so the connections are strained and if the dog jumps wrong or is playing too hard, the connections can be torn. The most important things are watching the puppy and, of course, crating it or otherwise restraining it when you can't watch it.
You want the pup to learn about the world so that it doesn't react fearfully to new situations when it is an adult. If a small child falls on your adult dog and sticks a finger in the dog's eye, you should not be surprised if the dog bites. This typically happens in the front shoulder and requires surgery and several months of confinement to repair. This is how the other puppies in the litter let each other know when they have crossed the line, and it is a good way to get the puppy's attention and let it know that biting is not acceptable.
If you do a good job teaching your puppy bite inhibition, you should get a grab and release without damage.
THEY GET THE BEST VET CARE, REGULAR GROOMING AND BATHING AND ATTENTION!A WE ALSO SPEND A SMALL FORTUNE ON HEALTH TESTING BEFORE ANY DOG IS ADDED INTO OUR BREEDING PROGRAM. During this time, even if you vaccinated every day, you would (in this theoretical discussion) not be able to stimulate immunity. Yet you are below that level of maternal protection at which infection can be effectively fought off. THEY OFFER A 10 YEAR GUARANTEE WHICH HAS SO MANY STIPULATIONS THAT ENDS UP MEANING "NO GUARANTEE". THEY CAN LOOK PRETTY (HAVE STAFF TO CARE FOR THE DOGS SO THEY CAN BE AT THE PHONE OR COMPUTER TO GRAB YOUR DEPOSIT AND SUCK YOU IN BEFORE YOU HAVE TIME TO CONSIDER WHAT THEY REALLY ARE). THEY WERE SICK WHEN THEY FOUND OUT THEY JUST BOUGHT (NON-REFUNDABLE) A PUPPY MILL PUPPY WITH NO TESTING!
THE PEPPER AND SALT GIANT SCHNAUZER IS KNOWN FOR MORE PROMINATE HEALTH ISSUES, NAMELY HIP DYSPLASIA WHICH IS PASSED ON TO THEIR PUPPIES. WE FINALLY GOT ONE FEMALE TO PASS ALL THE HEALTH TESTING AFTER ELIMINATING FIVE OTHER PROPECTS WHEN THEY FAILED THE TESTING. LOST IS THE REASON FOR A GIANT SCHOODLE IN THE FIRST PLACE!WHY DON'T WE DOCK THE GIANT SCHNOODLES TAILS? BECAUSE THESE DOGS GENERALLY LOVE TO SWIM AND THEY USE THEIR TAILS FOR BALANCE IN THE WATER. THEIR FIRST SIGHTS AND SOUNDS ARE OF FAMILY LIFE WITH LOTS OF ACTION GOING ON ALL THE TIME.
WE START CRATE TRAINING AT 6 WEEKS OLD SO THEY AREN'T STRESSED FOR A FLIGHT OR CAR TRIP HOME.FEEL FREE TO ASK US ANY QUESTIONS TO HELP YOU IN YOUR QUEST FOR THE BESTA COMPANION AVAILABLE EVEN IF YOU WANT A BREED WE DON'T HAVE. WE'LL BE GLAD TO HELP STEER YOU IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION and help you ask the right questions!!!just because someone has a fancy website doesn't mean anything!
OUR DAUGHTER AND GRANDSON'S SUPER AWESOME AKC STANDARD SCHNAUZER PUPPIES ARRIVED ON APRIL 1 2016!!
OUR FIRST LITTER OF STANDARD SCHNOODLE PUPPIES WERE BORN SUMMER 2015 AND ARE NOW IN THEIR NEW HOMES!!
HOMECOMING PHOTOS OF GIANT SCHNOODLE PUPPIES AND GROUP OF OUR AKC STANDARD POODLE SIRES AND PUPPIES!!! THIS IS A MUST READ BEFORE YOU DECIDE TO BUY A PUPPY FROM ANY BREEDER OR PERSON!!WE AREN'T JUST HERE TO SELL A PUPPY. LOST IS THE REASON FOR A GIANT SCHOODLE IN THE FIRST PLACE!WHY DON'T WE DOCK THE GIANT SCHNOODLES TAILS? WE'LL BE GLAD TO HELP STEER YOU IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION and help you ask the right questions!!!just because someone has a fancy website doesn't mean anything! IF YOU CAN'T MAKE IT IN PERSON, HAVE THEM SEND PICTURES OF HOME AND WHERE THEY ARE KEPT.



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