New for 2012, WEST SYSTEM is offering three specialized boat repair kits designed with the do-it-yourselfer in mind. I had a boat brought to me to repair and patch some cracked welds on the bottom of the hull. My first inclination is to weld a patch over the cracked area and I have attached pictures of the job in question. In truck or equipment frame repair we always used patches with gentle angles and round ends to avoid sharp 90 degree stress points. However I am having second thoughts on whether or not welding is the best approach for this project because I am only equipped with a TIG and this calls for a lot of welding.
Apparently the hull was cracked when my client bought the boat and didn't see that it had a large crack in it from hitting something hard. This will involve tearing it apart and maybe turning it over to do the welding in a flat position. In addition, the nature of that much welding may cause warpage to the hull which may stress other adjoining parts such as the ribs or keel. The keel has been welded and from the research I did , the keel tends to crack when welded, right next to the weld bead.
These things make it difficult for me to take on much less guarantee this job so although I need the money just as much as the next guy, I must let it go and ask the owner to look for a repair guy that is better setup than me to take on this job. Pitting, cracks and crevice corrosion are three of the drawbacks of any aluminum boat over the long haul.
In addition to boat repair, other boat-related repair can also be conducted quickly and easily as well. Besides boat repair, the HTS-2000 can also repair engine blocks, radiators, fuel tanks, air conditioners, latches, brackets, rivets and many more aluminum surfaces and objects. So, if you have an aluminum boat and are in need of a quick and easy method for boat repair, look no further than our industrial strength, second-generation line of boat repair products.
Gibbons Boat RepairBismarck, ND“We tried your Brazing rod thinking it would be like all the rest. Here you can see the repaired area - the horizontal row of rivets is due to a new support brace to add strength to the aluminum weakened by the impact damage.
Finally, a new main floor and carpet - replaced due to the rot that existed in the floor before.
On the interior the transom has been refabricated and reinforced with an aluminum support brace.


The remaining holes are for the engine mounts and bolts that fasten the marine plywood to the aluminum transom fastened in the interior.
Although I am keenly interested in suggestions on what materials or process can be used to make this right. Without knowing the extend, and cause of the holes, simply filling in with weld shall just delay the inevitable. Remove the temporary fasteners and blocks, then drill out each hole with a slightly bigger bit, all the way through the skin and new core.
I am really a novice DIY person without many of the skills required to repair the transom including welding.
I should also mention the interior portion of the transom has been fabricated with an aluminum support brace welded to the aluminum runners along the floor length of the boat and vertically up the interior transom skin. Agreed the best option would be to replace the exterior transom skin with a new piece of aluminum.
That being said I 'think' my best option is to repair the holes from the outside transom skin. Location: Eustis, FL A single thin skin of aluminum isn't going to support your engine, even with braces. Location: Eustis, FL Wow, some really serious Mickey Mouse work going on there. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. I also attached the proposed patch design as I don't want to weld at right angles to the direction of the hull metal and form stress points that will crack again.
I carry this philosophy to practically every cracked or broken metal joint I encounter be it a bike frame or truck frame. I am afraid I may put too much heat into the hull and create warpage and more potential problems for myself, not to mention the boat owner. A boat repair yard did the welded repair and now it is being brought to me because that repair cracked. Many people buy aluminum boats because aluminum is light, fast, flexible and seaworthy. Aluminum is light, strong, corrosion-resistant, non-sparking and can be fixed with an HTS-2000 brazing rod without a welding machine.
For instance, repair to a boat engine or engine housing, fuel tanks or even the boat trailer is a snap with our products.


But looking at your transom you have so many, the better option is to replace the transom, that way you'll know what the thickness is and it shall last longer than any temp repair which you're attempting now. You'll still have a transom full of holes, but they'll be sealed reasonably well, you can do it in your driveway and if you don't drop a 150 HP engine on it, you'll likely be fine for a decade with minimum care and a few decades with reasonable care. If you think this transom is just in need of some holes being patched, I've got nothing more I can tell you.
Besides not trusting them with the repair, they took three months to get it back to him and he wants it back quickly. The HTS-2000 is a no-flux brazing rod and all that is needed besides the brazing rod is a heat source (propane or mapp gas), a turbo tip, or oxy-acetylene. Considering all the holes and the cutout, a lot of work, but something that can be done in your driveway. Let this dry, until just barely tacky, then fill each hole with more of the thickened mixture. I usually repair cracks and then plate them but thought I'd ask other people's opinions on this. Clean, restore and polish with products for fiberglass, aluminum and pontoon craft with applicator mops or spray bottles. My patch would have to be somewhat larger than the crack to allow for a gentle curve covering it. Apply marine Tex, J B Weld, or Belzona, or mix your own 24 hour epoxt with a lot of alum powder or filings. That is on the transom to disc, from the outside and from the disc to the transom on the inside. On the inside use your gloved finger, around the edges of the plywood and make a small fillet of the epoxy ooze out. When you drill new holes for the engine mounts, bond them just like you did the other ones, making them at least 30% larger in diameter then the actual bolt shank clearance hole needs to be.



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