Bull Frog Rivet and its Aluminum Boat Hull Repair Kit will guarantee its end users a long term solution to leaking seams and rivets. Anglers looking for the perfect versatile fishing boat are going to love the Lund 1625 Fury XL. I'm brand new to the forum and boat building and was wondering if I may be able to tap into the knowledge of the forum members about construction materials and methods to suit my project.
The boat I'm interested in building is about 18-20ft power drifter style boat, I will attach a picture. I have a garadge to work in that is big enough for the boat, and I'm a carpenter by trade so I'd like to think I'm handy enough to do this, though one thing that makes me wonder if I should is cost.
Search the forum archives, several people on here (Larry Hedrick for one) have built successful boats using honeycomb panels for the bottom, sides, bulkheads, decks, etc. After a lot of thinking, there are many things about the Rapid Robert design which don't make sense to me.
An aluminum bottom panel with 1" honeycomb core laminated to the inside of the bottom would go a long way toward deadening the annoyingly loud sound a tin boat usually makes as it scrapes over shallow drops.
Sandy, thats a good idea to incorporate an aluminum bottom with a ply, or substitute, sides.
Sandy, the idea of a sheet of aluminum bonded to the outside of some core material should make for a strong bottom. Aluminum honeycomb core would make a great bottom, but it costs like a Saudi Arabian call girl.
I'd look up the price now, but my network connection is suddenly so slow I can barely use it.

I doubt you could bond plywood or honeycomb core sides directly to a thin sheet aluminum bottom panel. What you might be able to do (if you had a tig welder) would be to weld the bottom panel to a six inches high aluminum side panel. One option would be to maybe bond insulation foam sheets to the aluminum then you could bond your plascore or plywood on top of that which may make quieter, more solid floor.
If you could rivet UMWH (or what ever it's called) to the bottom of a stiff stout boat (regardless what the boat is made of) then you'd have something. Now I hadn't really thought about SS but it glues pretty good and I'll bet if a guy were to rough it up with some 40 grit or 25 grit you could glue a sheet to the bottom. It does expand and contract a bit and yes it does have to be bolted on and I would think some sleeves would be need to be run through the bottom or maybe use blind nuts in the floor and then glass. As for the aluminum bonded plywood, I have been working with this product for my skiff bottom. Factory-baked polyester paint on the finished side with a mill-finished aluminum backer to provide balance and prevent warping. When money is no object and you have the United States Federal Reserve Bank to print the money you can have anything.
I am working on a framed double transom dory right now that is about 30% done so I have to get that out of the way. My plans are to use the aluminum faced ply for the bottom by doing a overlapping butt joint where the aluminum overlaps the face of the aluminum on the next piece. We are renowed for building large custom made luxury yachts: catamarans, power boats and superyachts.

Boat Building Boat Designs, Designers, Naval Architect s, Design Software, Plans & Kits .
Following are the stock plans available for the various types of boats, separated into the different categories.
Dories began appearing over 200 years ago as small, light, versatile work boats ideal for fishing.
The material has it's issues, but can be laminated and worked the same way as plywood, so it makes a good substitute. That six inch vertical chine could be glued and maybe riveted to honeycomb a core or plywood side panel, in order span the rest of the distance up to the desired gunwale height.
Then I will pour flotation foam in and then top that with another sheet of plywood that is fiberglassed on both sides. E-commerce site with over 250 designs from some of America's most respected designers. I have been looking for a motor in the 100 hp range, you can find them for around 2000$ if you don't mind it being from the 80's . It just occurred to me the Billings Craig's List might be a good place to shop around for used motors and sled hulls. But back the original question, uhmw on the bottom does a great job of dispursing the load from a rock blow on the bottom so with glass and Kevlar it would be pretty darn tough.

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