I am considering reconfiguring an interior on a center cockpit 42' steel ketch I recently purchased. CatBuilder Previous Member   Jay, I've been down this path on past restorations. Interior components are mocked up on board the yacht with door skin ply, hot glue and a staple gun. Originally Posted by Jay and Ebben but as far as the initial planning goes I would like a strong jump start in the right direction.
Location: spain The interior is designed to compliment the way you use your boat. Plenty to think about here, and it will take many attempts drawing it out to scale to get it right.
This thread seems to be addressing all of them at one time with all of us posters going in different directions.
PS: Better than using a computer to model an interior layout, IMO, is using a scaled drawing of the hull.
I was a wooden boatbuilder turned live-aboard after I got tired of waving goodbye to my work from the dock. Keep the boat simple for ease of operation and also for a lower cost basis in the rebuild and overall maintenance. I don't have much interest in reading of those who feel an urge to tell me how I don't have enough cash to make this happen. Location: Eustis, FL When designing an accommodations arrangement, many particulars need to be considered, aside the engineering and technical assembly details.
With the accommodation plan mocked up, you can establish building details based on one of several methods or a combination of them.
Inside you'll find exact dimensions for everything inside a boat - down to making holders for the cups and dinner plates.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Tangram 3DS, a firm specializing in visualization and computer animation, announced its collaboration with Schopfer Yachts, LLC.
To achieve this goal, Kevin Schopfer, president of Schopfer Yachts, chose Tangram 3DS for their proven strategic process, technical capabilities, and award-winning architectural visualization. Animating both interior and exterior views of Oculus, Tangram walks the viewer through the details of the design concept. For Tangram, the key to their successful solutions is to build upon the extraordinary designs and concepts of their clients to bring projects to life through animation and visualization.
My goal is a super-efficient and very smooth riding 20-25 mph power catamaran for fishing in the Gulf Coast USA.
Location: Oriental, NC Ken, I haven't seen data that gives you the answer your seek. Other designers experience seems to point to 20 knots as a practical max for displacement power cats of less that 30' LOA or so.
The advantages of such a design are knife-sharp wave slicing at low speeds, very narrow bottoms that dramatically reduce vertical acceleration at planing speeds, easy trailering on a simple flatbed trailer, etc.
One thing I do know is that the longer the hulls the more comfortable the ride in most conditions, which is why I'm not afraid to go 40' long if I have to. My guess is that Rick Willoughby might be the man to ask about this since he seems to have done more with extremely long and narrow hulls and efficiency optimization than other folks in this forum. One reason for the seaknife-type hull bottoms is to attempt to bypass this limitation and actually be able to plane at speeds exceeding 20 knots. There's nothing wrong with 20 knots in displacement mode, but if a simple hull design change can add the ability to plane with only minimal negative effects on displacement performance, why not? My goal is to design and build a boat that solves both the fuel efficiency problem and the issue with the boat beating their humans up in rough water at moderate speeds. Not exactly, here's why: The hull bottom is basically just a long, skinny triangle and the sides will have minimal flare, so the max WL beam is always going to be at the transom in this design.
I would think the displacement drag would be higher for planing hulls than for optimum minimum drag hulls.
I'm guessing that the transom drag, which will probably create the biggest detriment to efficient low speed propulsion, is not going to be that much anyways given the long skinny nature of the hulls. Naturally the hulls must be designed to plane if I want to push them faster than displacement speeds, and the seaknife hulls are designed specifically for high speed planing, so it seems this hull form may work well in this application.

Right, that's why my goal is to optimize for the lowest power consumption at 20-25 knots since this is the speed I expect to be running at most of the time. At higher speeds than 25 knots the boat will be less efficient but it will still plane comfortably without the bone jarring pounding of a typical monohull. The typical weekend fisherman here has a boat that goes as fast as possible so he can get out to his favorite fishing holes quickly. I'm just trying to come up with a design that gets the fisherman out to his fishing grounds fast, makes the ride smoother, consumes far less fuel, and offers a lot more space to move around on the boat (on a more stable fishing platform) when the boat is actually anchored at a fishing hole. I've done some reading and number-crunching on problems similar to yours, but claim minimal hands-on experience. Leo Lazauskas has done theoretical research on long and thin displacement hulls, with both a fine entry and exit. You want the possibility to operate the hulls in planing mode, which means you are not going to have a fine exit. Planing or not planing, the sum of the lifting forces will have to act at the center of gravity. The little hands-on experience I have leads me to believe that there will be no planing hump of consequence. It will be interesting to read how you solve your problem, so please continue writing about it on the forum.
It would also be interesting to know how much drag the turbulence at the transoms can be expected to add compared to a fine exit, if anyone knows. I thought I remember such a number myself, and it probably came from Leo Lazauskas or Rick Willoughby or maybe both of them, so thanks for refreshing my memory. In the literature it is reported that planing hulls should have little or no rocker in the aft sections because too much rocker in this area will cause the boat to wander or become unstable (unsteerable?) at speed. In fact, I think that the triangular shape of the bottoms of these hulls will counteract any tendency the boat might have to wander because of a little bit of aft rocker. I cannot optimize for all conditions so I want to optimize for the most important conditions. I will learn more as I go along, but no matter what, I still intend to design for the possibility of planing at 50+ knots. The cat is not going to plane on the rear parts of the hulls unless you have put the center of gravity there. I've seen pictures of similar concepts on boats being used commercially for rough water transport in (I think) Australia or New Zealand.
While I would like to get the transoms out of the water for more efficient low speed use, I still want flat transoms for mounting outboards. If you are going to be sailing long ocean passages, you will benefit from a relatively small galley with plenty of places to brace yourself against. If you can, measure the interior space and re-produce it in 3D CAD; that way you can try a large number of different options, and you *should* be able to cut parts direct from the CAD definition.
Here is a bit of my story - I am sharing it because each time I seem to post something on these forums ideas come back to me which I had no idea were applicable. I always wanted to see the other side of all of those customers leaving in apparent euphoria. Have the ability to have my family (four of us) and a couple friends here and there for extended cruising. This will help you arrange the accommodations, find flaws and not spend a lot of money or effort re-arranging and altering as required. Stick built is easy, if you're a reasonably skilled wood worker, foam sandwich if you'd like lightness and have 'glassing experience, taped seam is an option as well as other avenues of construction detail pursuit. A well built, but uncomfortable or not well suited accommodations arrangement, may be good looking, but unusable. As a company dedicated to the pursuit of advanced yacht design and technology, Schopfer Yachts wanted to make a statement in the global yachting community with its first design concept; the 250-foot vessel, Oculus. Designed to accommodate 12 guests in extraordinary comfort and style, Oculus is a long distance cruising yacht.
To be able to visualize a design project in 3D and through animation, allows potential buyers or stakeholders in a project to envision the final result, said Stefan Vittori, president and founder of Tangram 3DS. The bows of these hulls will slice through the water efficiently at low speeds since they are very sharp. I think I can safely assume that any errors in what I write will be corrected by others on the forum, so here's my input.

I expect that less beam should mean less drag, so making the hulls as narrow as possible still seems right. This means the transom bottoms will still be 1-2 feet wide, not sharp like the bows, and they will still be perfectly flat from side to side.
I purchased the vessel as a restoration project (it is currently in rough shape) and at this time I am working at laying out my long term plans.
My hull is a traditional shape and I want to be in pace with that, but take advantage of modern curves, materials etc. If you are only going to sail short distances, and intend to do all your cooking at anchor or mooring, then you can afford a larger galley, with less concern about it's effectiveness at sea.
What you do need is light, so don't skimp, as this will change the whole atmosphere in the boat. I lived on my 38' wooden ketch ( see profile photo above) for 4 years between Maine and South America. I have seen most of my best friends pass on from this world without their biggest dreams coming to fruition, or even having given them an effort to make happen. The best and most useful method, to which a well fitting and serviceable interior can be established, is a mockup. On the other hand, a cobbled together, but well fitting accommodations plan, will see better service underway, even if it needs duct tape to repair it from time to time. Collaborating back and forth, Tangram was able to bring those sketches to life, through design studies, renderings, and finally animation.
The exterior styling is representative of the jaw and eye socket bone structure of large oceanic fish and mammals. And in this situation, Kevin needed to deliver an amazing and captivating design concept that would set the tone for the start of what we hope will be a successful venture.
Yet when enough power is applied the leading edges rise out of the water (see the picture above) and the boat planes on the bottoms of those two very narrow but perfectly flat hulls. Does anyone have any thoughts on a few books that they hold in high regards on interior joinery?
As I remove the unsalvageable interior this summer I would love to have an idea of how I will be going about making the main salon more comfortable. It is the time to think about as many aspects as I can since this boat is somewhat of a blank slate of possibility. The boat has fantastic custom stainless hardware to start and I have the resources to fabricate more as needed. I have asked a few questions here not knowing exactly why I was asking and look at the thought provoking responses. Highlighting the yachts design details and extraordinary comfort and style, Tangram created an animation that is a showcase for Schopfers first design concept for the yachting community.
The interior features of Oculus focus on a 12-foot high ceiling in the main salon, a cylindrical double height dining room, and a central stairway. I expect that the transoms will be dry at quite low speeds (5-10 knots?) but the majority of the lift will still come from displacement. Has anyone read "Interior Design Methods for Yacht Design and the Boat Building Industry"?
I am going to keep it as simple as possible with minimal electrics but I want to be smart about it. I can handle the woodwork fine but as far as the initial planning goes I would like a strong jump start in the right direction. I want to end up with a simple and modern boat that holds classic appeal and is extraordinarily elegant. In addition, I need to do this by resorting more on my skills as a craftsman than on buying the best of everything. This past fall I was just happy to get the boat here in one piece and have it drained before freezing!
I have 9 years to rebuild it (as I continue a healthy and wonderful relationship with my wife and kids) and when my kids are old enough to embark on their own I hope they might join me. My wife sailed with me for the previous voyaging and supports me doing this but she will not be on the boat too much.

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