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Fire ratings for roof coverings describe how well the roof covering resists fires including the ability of the roof to resist catching fire from a lightning strike, if a spark or ember lands on it (say from a nearby chimney or from a forest fire), as well as the resistance to fire spread if the material is ignited.
Keep in mind that the purposes of roof covering fire ratings (to desribe the fire resistance of a roofing material), and the intent of roof fire resistance in general are to allow building occupants more time to escape in event of a fire, not to guarantee that the building nor its ocupants will be unharmed in the event of a fire.
Watch out: if a roofing shingle or other roof covering material is not installed exactly according to the manufacturer's recommendations its fire rating may be compromised and reduced, as may the roof warranty too. Details about the properties of asphalt roof shingles are found at Asphalt Shingle Properties. Details about re-roofing options and best practices for asphalt shingle roofs are at ASPHALT SHINGLE RE-ROOF GUIDE. Details about types of metal roofing are found at our metal roofing home page, METAL ROOFING. See STANDING SEAM METAL ROOF INSTALLATION for details about standing seam roof installation, flashing, maintenance, repair.
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I'm thinking that if I TG it from the top, then that might mitigate the variances in thickness. After staining, did you seal it or otherwise finish it? You will get the same advantage of aligning the faces without having to mill the entire edge. Thanks for the ideas (hadn't thought of the biscuit joiner, thanks Greg!), and the pictures are stellar. I'm psyched about this thread I started, and still love the idea, but am started to get worried about resale value (things change, and I may be selling). You mentioned in one of the pages in the blog that you would try to post information here in realation to the budget details for your project.
It seems to me that gluing the sheets to the sub-floor could cause big headaches in the future. Table 2-2 below compares the pros and cons of organic asphalt shingles (Standard ASTM D255) and fiberglass based asphalt shingles (Standard ASTM D3462).

Also, a roof that has resisted a fire successfully, and thus helped protect the building from a fire, is likely to need to be replaced after a fire or after exposure to high heat from a nearby fire.
If you require further details regarding the transaction data, please contact the supplier directly. At that place are a motley of unlike types of plywood you mightiness choose to use on a project depending on the type of project best plywood projects.
Like the other plywood projects there isn't any compli cated joinery on this It's frame together with screws and butt joints.
At some point over the next 20 years I expect that there will be a reason to replace at least one sheet (water damage, dog pee, wear, etc.). Research Chuck Mullins's turn over picked collection of Pins about One sheet of paper of Plywood on Pinterest. How in the heck do you do that without destroying the sub-floor when the sheets are glued down? I guess there is a similar problem if you join all the sheets in that replacing one sheet is not feasible, but at least you won't completely destroy the sub-floor when the plywood is removed. With a hardwood floor, you at least have the option of removing several planks, and kind of springing the replacement planks into place, but it's hard to imagine getting that to work when your planks are four feet wide. Unless you use something like Advantech OSB, which is very water resistant but also has lots of stuff printed on it (kind of ruins the aesthetic), any water that gets through the finish to the panel will cause it to swell significantly, and it will stay swollen even after the panel dries out. In the rental I'm living in right now (I'm moving in two weeks), there is a distinct hump in the floor (sheet vinyl over OSB) in the vicinity of the refrigerator, the result of a microscopic pinhole leak in the plastic supply line to the icemaker.

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