Both hulls done and faired to 400mm above waterline, rest of the hulls and hull decks faired up to the high build stage.
Building the hulls split down the center line and transverse planking is common enough, I think it is a better alternative to longitudinal planking especially for a single operator. I ended up going with the CF as it was easy to find and for the amount I need, not too expensive. Location: Anacortes, WA MikeReed, where in the world does one find room to build a boat in Santa Barbara? Location: Australia Mike, I do not see a problem having the CP's on your hulls if that is your preferred placement but I personally would not laminate to the outside skin alone. Infusion of hull mold video » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Internal or external chainplates?
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. How about posting some pictures of the mould you have to see what kind a boat you making !! My advice is to build the first boat out of all glass first off and use vinylester resin throughout the whole construction . The key to making this baby hold together will be your internal grid frame system and how its fitted and how its fixed in place .
Location: GREECE tunnels Will definitely use it because ethylene-vinyl so I will have lighter construction. Originally Posted by m3mm0s rib tunnels Will definitely use it because ethylene-vinyl so I will have lighter construction.
I hope the third man will watch over you and if you have family you have good insurance for them !!.
I used to make R,I,Bs and did development work for the company making rescue craft not that fast but able to take any kind of weather, anytime of the year . Originally Posted by m3mm0s rib I would like from those who know how to tell me if I want to do my boat kevlar carbon how many layers will be needed and in what order. Poly ester is the bottom of the resin pile its the basic to make almost anything from its the lowest priced and plentiful . Next up the scale is vinylester , its the best of the ester resins has excilent properties and like i suggested you use it to make a glass boat first . Top of the pile is Epoxy if you are going to use carbon and Kevlar this is nessasary as Kevlar had enought strength to pull out of the other resins . Dont just take one resin and think it is the only one ,you have to ask and do your home work to find the best one suited for your particular application . On the road to building this boat you are standing at the bottom of a huge mountain of knowledge and learning and havent really taken the first step on your way yet . This is a wonderful site and there are so many professional people that read and post here to help . Over the many years i have never taken things at face value , the resin and glass supplyer is there to make money and will sell any one any thing , good or bad doesnt really care!! Location: GREECE Dude tounnel so far nobody has to say cheeky because I always mean what I said. Its ok just have to think that most peole dont know much till time goes by and reveals slowing what they know and what you dont know .
Originally Posted by daydreamsully Hi i am thinking about building my own rib but first im in research mode.


Its future is to have a couple of 5 HP gas model engines and some beautiful RC modelling hardware, hoping that it will when finished run at speeds close to 30-35 knots. Location: spain we have not made the hull yet, those are plugs for mold making but believe that the 2 m complete hull ready to run might be in the vecinity of 14 kg. New member restoring 15' powercat, transom and hull overhaul » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post My first boat building project! Originally Posted by tunnels So cutting part way through did the trick ??how stiff was it to bend the foam and the glass ??
The radius of a corner can be determined by the weight of glass you use light glass will bend easy and you can get a smaller radius !! I made and folded all the interior face panels for the inside of a yachts The folded panels had to fit through a hatch-way and be unfolded inside the boat .
Location: australia Nice , any problems with gelcoat cracking where the bends are? Originally Posted by groper Nice , any problems with gelcoat cracking where the bends are?
The spa pool base was 99% made as flat panels with one side rolled up and done on a bench comlete with cores glassed over and stiffeners and as many things as were needed ,when finished glassing released and cut and a couple of bits added and lifted up onto the boat to be fitted to the sky bridge . We made lots things like this that the other contractors had put in there to hard basket to make and wanted absorbidant prices!! New member with new to me boat » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post What do you think of this design? Location: milano Building With C Flex Hi, after a lot of research I've decided to build the attached design using C flex. Airex although expensive is still the choice of most of the CG and lifesaving and Pilot boats built in eueo land . Our more rapid fairing technique was to long board with machine floor sanding paper glued on. Dont panic , it looks like rocks glued on a hunk of cardboard 14 or 20 grit , but does a good rapid job. Advantage of ANY foam core is stiffer , usually lighter , quieter , and insulated , a great help to any cruiser.
I built a 40 ft cold-moulded ply yacht for personal use quite some time ago and took a female mould of it. The 40 ft mould was gathering dust because of my adversity against foam cores and even high-tech ones such as Nomex. I complete understand your position as I was mulling the very same question a few years back.
Regardless of your decision, I think there is one concept that you need to come to grips with. With all the mistakes I made, looking back, I would build a single skin, using a male mold. I thing that you are overestimating the amount of work necessary to build the mold for the hull relative to the rest of the work. I have spent the last 12 months agonising over a one off 28ft construction project, but I am avoiding strip plank and longboarding as much as possible - especially strip planking! I am going to attempt your original idea of a developable surface hull, using full length foam (Airex or similar) panels, initially glassed on one side, so they can be laid like plywood sheets (self fairing) in a female 'basket'.
Then, once the insides are glassed, compartments fitted - the whole thing is rolled over for a final layer of glass.


Hopefully, with the judicious use of peel play and a smooth flat melamime table to lay the panels on during layup, the amount of finishing work will be left behind. My NA has approved the concept, and it will be built ot full ISO standards, so I am optimistic at this point.
11:40 AM  What are the costs involved in building a fibreglass 17 foot center console flats? With each of the resin systems are many many differant types for a huge array of applications .
If you can get a copy of Freeship or Delftship, and want to wrestle with the techniques, it will be a lot easier AND you can get the all important displacement and bouyancy calculations done automatically. Why would you bother making molds for one off pieces, I read earlier on that you are not skilled with wood so I would suggest using foam for such items and glassing the inside and or out as deemed necessary. I hope the comment previously about 'you cant avoid longboarding' isnt totally true, and moulds are truly big timesinks.
Glass is more forgiving and cheaper and you will have a chance to workout your construction schedualing for your carbon as you go along !! Thanks With carbon fibre, an epoxy resin will be needed as it will bond, whereas polyesters will not. I am wondering how you got the positions and deadrise angles worked out on yoir stations on the rib? Draw out your corner and stop the core back just a couple of mils to start the bend and same on the other side where the core begins again . As far as cabinetry and such go what a lot of the one off custom builders are doing here is having the pieces made out of house by cabinet makers from the design of the architect. Neal Petersen?s 11,2 mtr yacht is an example by finalizing the single-handed yacht race around the world. I had a leak some time after infusing the mast beam web, I will use this elsewhere and make a new one. I used a 45 degree cut end leaving about 3 mm of the square end then the 45 coming off that , the edge of the 45 degree foam could bend as well .
These pieces are made a little bit long or tall then trimmed to fit to the boat sides or what have you, custom builders are now even getting the jigs for the house and the flybridge cut on CNC and now they have curves on both axis', there is a jig cutter here on the east coast that charges about 100 US per foot.
Other parts are GRP channels laid toe-down, lengthwise between- and connected to the U-ribs.
The motor that will hang are two outboard 300 horsepower V8 and I think it will reach 85 knots.
Du Pont supply primed versions, although for your application, I would agree with landlubber in that kevlar is superfluous.
Cold-moulded ply however lost some of its glory to more modern building materials special in the speed, and stiffness departments. Such a core has anti-delaminating properties, something which other cores (such as foam or even Nomex? fail to have. Foam sheets will distort and come close to the compound curves that are usually found in sailboats.



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