If you use your boat in the ocean or on choppy water a lot, it's probably a good idea to build in a splash well for the outboard notch in the transom. Using this technique builders have added splash wells to just about all of my ply on frame boats.
What Finish for Wood on Boat » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post This flybridge came out of my head.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. When it came time to decide about epoxies, the school turned to Michael Bogoger (Dory-man) for advice. Epoxies will harden in minutes or hours, but complete cure (hardening) will generally take several days.
Fisheyes are areas on a painted surface where the coating literally pulls away for the substrate leaving a coatingless void or fisheye. There are some additives that can be mixed into the epoxy that will reduce surface tension. It is best to use epoxies with a mix ratio close to 1 to 1 as opposed to something 4-1, 5-1, etc.
That's only 1.6 cubic square feet of surface at one inch thick and that's also assuming a solvent-free product. Polyester resin alone is almost worthless, so coating the under side with only resin isn't going to be of any value. The plywood itself supplies adequate strength, the glass is just to tie it into the hull sides and protect it. Multiple layers of cloth on plywood isn’t an ideal laminate schedule for polyester, stick with CSM as a first layer and 1 cloth on top of it. Location: spain A very good reference that is free to download on the net is the Gougheon Brothers on boatbuilding.
In addition almost every epoxy supplier has a good tutorial on glass types, general scantlings and best practice. Location: Dublin,Ireland On my builds I used 6oz cloth it's put on dry the day before to let it settle.
Also the 'sole' does add a bunch of strength to hulls, especially in small, lightweight boats like a 16' trihull.
Which brings up one more thing, no matter which resin you use, and that is be sure the hull is not twisted or bent out of shape by whatever is supporting it. Mix just enought to do the job and if you need a little more just make a small mix to finish it with ! Differant types of glasses use differant quantities of resin ,but its your starting point !
Originally Posted by PAR The polyester built boats don't last long, as their plywood and solid timber support structures die fairly quickly. This is all because they don't prime the wooden elements very well, use too thin of sheathing over them, polyesters don't really stick to wood well, isn't especially water proof (take your pick) and generally don't care much about what happens after a dealer sells it. I have a few older wooden boats, none of which has had a pampered life, all with original wooden decks and all either pushing 50 or over 50 years old. In the end it's your call, but even the slow to change manufactures are getting away from it. Location: OREGON These people seem to me to be the most conpetitive in pricing.
Location: Eustis, FL Archie, contact me by email (ckick on my name) and I'll get you some epoxy cheaper then Raka. Location: Eustis, FL You don't want the trailer supports to hold up any potions of the planking if you can help it.

If your planking is well fastened, the deck tight and well attached, the keel solid and not permitted to hog (well supported), then the turn of the bilge will resist sagging for some time.
Location: La Florida If bunks touch planking, make sure it is wher planks are backed by frame members. Location: Eustis, FL Since the frames are perpendicular to the planking seams, it stands to reason that bunks will hit many. As mentioned, the bunks should land directly below the engine bed stringers, which is a single screw or outboard powered boat will be 24" apart.
The real key is to insure there aren't any hard edges pressing against the planking, between frame bays or stringers.
Location: Eustis, FL In one of your exterior photos, there appears to be a log (hunk of wood) on the planking. You boat is light enough to tolerate bunks at the bilge turn, but again they just keep the boat from flopping over onto her flanks and don't push up into the planking. Your trailer doesn't appear to have enough keel rollers, especially along the forward sections.
The first iteration of trailer my boat had a keel support with bilge bunks for keeping the boat upright on the trailer. When I purchased the replacement, the guy selling the trailer said I had it set up wrong for a wooden boat.
Location: Eustis, FL You're right to be concerned about the pressure points. I intentionally positioned the bunk boards where the pads would live after is was home (at the turn of the bilge, not under the boat). On your boat, the stub keel can easily bear the boat's weight, so make a box or set of athwart bunks that is can rest on. The ideal trailer setup is no bilge supports at all, just a place for the keel to rest and vertical supports that rest against the rub rail along the sheer, which just prevents the boat from flopping over. Location: WNY I think then that I will add a keel bunk, but also keep all of the other bunks.
Location: Eustis, FL Make the keel bunk sides as tall as you can and slope them outboard, so they act as a funnel when the keel is trying to find them.
I am very fortunate to came across your site, I was not looking for info on boat building, I think it was something about fishing Socal shore.
Started building the first week of June and finally today (July 8th), was the first sea trial.
These direct any water that comes over the transom back into the water instead of it going into the bilge. The space on either side is handy for mounting batteries, bilge pumps and fuel tanks as well. For pigmented epoxies select colors that are dark or contain a lot of yellow (such as green). I always let the prime coat of resin set up before laminating fiberglass on to it, if I didn't the wood usually sucked resin from the cloth and left dry, resin starved areas. Polyester isn't near as good an adhesive and odds are that cloth directly on wood can be easily peeled off.
What it mainly does, when it is glassed to the hull around all the edges, is stop the hull from twisting. What you want is the boat to rest on her keel and be prevented from flopping over onto her flanks with bunks or my preference are support stands. A few well placed, turn of the bilge support stands can keep them from drooping to a degree, but if drooping becomes and issue, it's not the trailer, it's something else, like loose fasteners.
You'll probably have to make up some brackets to hold rollers, but it's not particularly difficult.

Also not visible are the angle stock cross braces later installed, to keep the verticals up right and not spread, as the boat leaned against them.
A PVC pipe V in front of the keel box would do the same thing; keep the boat centered over the box, until it's pulled shallow enough to drop in. Now they want a motor-powered craft and I am hooked on boat building, so I will give stitch and glue a go and will be purchasing the 14' Maxi Miss plans in the near future. Think about this - in June he wasn't even thinking about building a boat, now here it is the first week of July and he's using his own homebuilt boat! My offshore Pacific Dories have these wells designed in but most of teh smaller boats do not include that in the design.
That's why mat is always used as a first layer on wood when using polyester, it sticks better for some reason.
The boat would be surprisingly flexible that way without the sole being glassed to the hull on all the edges.
Polyester has earned every inch of it's reputation from many, like me, that have had to hack it out of boats and the obvious signs seen during repairs, upgrades and modifications. The worst thing you can do to wooden planking is push against it hard in localized areas, like bunks or supports. I've repaired and condemned quite a few boats, because they were stored on a poorly fitted trailer and the planking got distorted. No pads or bunks to paint around, just the bottom of the keel, which can be handled by jacking on launch day. If the supports are bending in the hull anywhere, when it's glassed there is a good chance it will be permanent.
Again it's a costly decision on their part, as these materials generally cost a lot more then wood. Never use rollers on planks either, again the same reason, point loading in a very small area, which will pop butt blocks, fasteners, clenches, etc. The best setup I've devised, had two V's, one forward of a stub keel (much like yours) and one aft of it. I put a new transom core in a 12 year old boat recently and repaired stringers and hatch surround on an 8 year old boat a few months ago. Simply put they're using vinylester resin because their shop is step up for styrene and MEKP, which isn't necessary at all with epoxy shops. Sticking with a poly base permits these builders, to keep much of the resin and material handling equipment used on polyester. That's because this is a single screw boat and the beds are on 24" centers (pretty much a standard). It runs parallel to the keel through the broadest section of the boat only, not stem to stern. As the boat was pulled out, she'd settle on the trailer, with the forward and aft V's centering things, as the trailer and boat came together.
This is where you want the bunks, because the keel can't hold up the boat in the aft potions of the hull. The skeg, shaft, strut and rudder prevent under keel support, so the next hard point that will not crush frames and planking are the engine bed stringers. The stands are home made and simply pivoting pads that let the bilge rest comfortably, without a hard edge pushing into the planking.

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