Location: GENOA, ITALY Deck Layout Can someone out there tell me if this deck layout arrangement is smart or has something that can be revised? Anyway, IMHO I would put the foresail halyards + winch on the mast, that way one person on the bow controls the genoa drop (with a turn around the winch if required) and pulls it aboard at the same time.
Do you really need winches to set up the runners - if its a race boat too much weight, and if its a cruiser then too much cost ? The mast is very thin (maybe I can put online the sail plan), so I wouldn't place a winch on it. For reefing lines on a boat this size, I think you can get away without having any winch's.
I think winches are not necessary for reefing lines ont this boat either, so I thought why not placing those lines directly on the boom with some cam cleats?
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: maine With that much abuse expected, plywood is probably the best choice, though it's hard to tell from here whether the balsa-cored deck failed because it was balsa rather than plywood, or, as is most common, from water leaking into fastener holes.
Shocks to balsa could delaminate the core from the skin in any case, so the question is what thickness of plywood to use.
However thick the balsa core was, that's going to be about what thickness the plywood should be, so long as the old deck failed due to reasons other than balsa thickness being too thin.
I know that in order to prevent the reverse curve, one need to build a constantly changing radius camber over the lenght of the deck. My question to the group is the following; with a given deck, sheer and camber, does it exist automatically a developable deck of some sort or if it is possible that no solution exist ? Location: Eustis, FL Ouch, I know the pain of hard drive crashes, though it's been a decade. Location: Eustis, FL Actually, it did sound like you where tooting away, rather hard in fact. The 6" wide king plank is a good idea, but it should be continuous, not fitted between the beams, but fitted into beam notches. Instead of beams, I'd be inclined to use the two bulkheads as supports for longitudinal stringers instead.
Location: Eustis, FL Yes, the sheer clamp doesn't need to be a 1x4, a 1x3 is over kill, so use a 1x2.
I'd make to two heavy oak beams at the mast (1x2 actual size) and the aft one of these would have the chain plate fall on it. The longitudinal stringers might need to be laminated if you have a compound curve blister deck.
The next sketch (2nd thumbnail - please excuse the poor quality) shows more detail and what I'm also considering. I also added a hatch in the rear deck, for access to the rear chain plate, outboard motor bracket mounting hardware, etc., and included a boot top stripe and a cove stripe, just for fun. Location: Eustis, FL The hatch could also flip to the side, instead of forward, offering more available depth.
The usual seating position for two in this boat is the skipper a little forward of the end of the tiller and the crew further forward and used as trim (moves fore and aft as required and point of sail demand). I realize that it sounds like I'm trying to have a small cabin in a boat without creating a cabin, but I keep believing that there is a workable compromise. On a side note, someone donated some heavy duty axles and springs for the trailer, an electrician who restored his own Morgan 38 has offered to design and install a new electrical system for the boat, and a friend who used to work for a boatbulder in Florida has offered to make the deck beams and help with the epoxy and fiberglass. Location: Eustis, FL It's hard to just guess at, I'd go out to the boat with a light batten, then spring it from rail to rail at the bulkhead. On a boat with just a deck, no cabin sticking up through it, you can get away with a lot of deck crown.
The more crown you have, naturally the more cuddy volume you'll have and the more serviceable that space will be come, also the more protection you'll have from boarding seas, spray and the occasional sea monster. A tip I can provide is, once you are sure you've set the battens with as much crown as you think reasonable, add another inch. I thought it would make a good thread to pass around infornation useful to amateur builders, who want to get in on the latest composite hardware methods. Location: st simons island ga Show and Tell--Birdhouse Heck, it's too wet to do much outside, so I decided to do some experimenting.
Also I cut two pieces of formica to size and taped on bubble wrap to the backside (but the shiny side goes down, against the peel ply), so this goes on last. Location: st simons island ga When it cures I will cut into it and see how thick it turned out to be, So then I will know that much at least. Also, I am wondering if it should be through fastened through the deck as alumnum brackets would be. Location: australia indeed charly, why use bolts to hold everything together? Location: st simons island ga Hinge Construction Hey guys, I have been thinking some more about building some composite hinges, for my flush deck hatches. Location: Coastal Georgia If anything eventually goes wrong, then you have to make more hinges, tear into the hatch and deck, then repair and fair it all up and paint it with some custom color that hopefully will match the aged color of the surrounding area. I don't think it's practical at all, but if you do it, try and pick a composite that will stand up to the repeated action of housing a turning shaft.
I keep trying to envision some way of bedding in the pin, which would run wild of the hinge for an inch or two, into a trench or something. It seems that the boldest cabin+cockpit design I've found so far is from the Spirit Yachts series.
Every other wooden boat I've looked at seems to have what is essentially a rectangular extrusion on the deck. Location: Lakeland Fl USA That is going to be a pleasant boat on a calm day.

Location: Lakeland Fl USA My comments were not intended to be negative ones. I am a bit new to Rhino, so if anyone here can help me, regarding how to create the deck, superstructure, bowtruster etc., for an excisting hull already designed in Rhino, it will be greatly appreciated! If it is a sailboat hull in which the superstructure (cabin roof) is rather small, the main part of the superstucture for your boat will be deck. Only with Rhino, this deck,with a camber in it, won't be easy to do, but you can try, see my dwgs ! Besides, I don't like to have many lines on the cockpit, so I still don't know how to do for the reef lines. And if you put a roll in the boom than you can transfer the refflines over the deck in to the cockpit. In the area of the bow though, were the beam start a zero and progress wider, it creates a reverse curve in the sheer. This is a known mathematical problem, this web site is full of mathematical reference on this subject.
Okay, kidding aside, you have right to be proud and bragging a bit, not that your were, it wouldn't be a bad thing. The sheer stringer is the clamp, a sheer clamp and doesn't need to be massive, just a place for beams to land. You don't need as much athwart stiffness as longitudinal, so orienting structural elements to this direction also just makes good sense. Epoxy will hold the boat without a single fastener, but fasteners can make the heart feel better.
The deck stringers would land on the sheer clamp at one end and the cockpit bulkhead at the other.
The hatches, hatch boards, coamings, and cockpit sole could probably be epoxy and varnish coated natural wood, with a transom veneer to match.
It may just be an opinion, but to me there is certain mystery to a boat with a cabin, albeit a small one, that makes me wonder what's down there. I'd raise it up until it seemed as high as I think reasonable, then I'd lay another batten perpendicular to it on the centerline to the bow, which would give you an idea of the foredeck line. You can get away with more deck crown if you mask it using hand rails, genoa tracks, hatches, etc., all of which tend to break up the height of the crown (meaning you can use even more). You're the one that has to live with the ridicule, of butchering a iconic classic and the sacrilege of it's many modifications (). This is because when the deck is down and everything filled and fitted, it will visually look a little lower then you thought and the extra inch will just be an added bonus. You're the one that has to live with the ridicule, of butchering a iconic classic and the sacrilege of it's many modifications. I had just finished the restoration of a 33 year old Hobie 16 (fiberglass repairs as needed, new paint, tramp lacing, jib sheets, etc.), so I showed her the shiny, bright yellow Hobie, thinking that it would attact her attention.
I've located some red oak for the sheer clamps and the oak mast partner beams, and some battens for the temporary deck beams. Any anecdotes etc, from those who have built and actually used composite fittings-- especially chainplates, padeyes, cleats, stanchions hinges and the like, ie, what problems have you had, and what solutions?
I have never done this before, so any suggestions, reprimands or other comments are all appreciated.
The idea with it is to keep the laminate smooth, so the bubble wrap pattern won't telegraph through. The plans show the brackets through bolted to each other, back to back through bolted through the bulkhead, and also through bolted botttom to top, through the (balsa) deck. I'll also guess it's heavier and less stiff then T-6 aluminum angle stock of similar dimensions. A little skinnier than PAR guessed, and that I had hoped for, but I know I can use it somewhere.
I was hoping I could be able to reach in there and prep, and then bed the piece in some structural bog, maybe covering the whole thing in a final layer, or (staggered layers) of glass.
Picture some grit or sand in with the pin and how long the composite will last before the pin wears the hole out and it gets all sloppy.
On a windy day it is going to be subject to signifigant lateral forces from all that flat panel area. Notched into this would be 4 equally spaced 1x2 stringers running fore and aft with a 1x4 king plank down the centerline. It shows the king plank (though not the localized partner reinforcement) and the port side stringers, the ring frame, sheer clamps, etc.
I kept the curved cockpit seats, and added one across the rear of the cockpit by way of the rudder post, similar to the original Ensign design. This would eliminate the complication of a sliding hatch, and still create a fair sized opening for access to the v-berth.
Having a dry spot to dive into, when a rain squall passes through is great, but not if the cockpit is crowded. I'll certainly explore the boom tent option, since the v-berth area would probably be uninhabitable on a hot summer night here.
I even considered attaching the deck hatch to the top companionway hatch board with a hinge so that I could just lift them out and fold them together, but haven't figured out how all that would seal off. You and I understand the reasons and logic behind the changes and have no issue with them, but some will, because they don't know what you started with or are just anal purists that need their heads examined.
I can see making up a bunch of those over a half round mandrel and cutting them to individual size with a chop saw or something. Seems part of the whole idea of composite is to do a way with fasteners, so maybe I should lace them up with some tow fabric isntead? I did cut three strips of varying width and staggered them on first (after the initial 10 oz layer) I wanted to keep a true 90 degree angle as much as possible.

Then mold a top half, glass, clamping cradle over the tube and hold it down with 2 bolts either side that tighten the clamp as you tighten the bolts. The underside of the bridgedeck gets a couple of padeyes for mounting the swinging tube for the outboard motors. I’m New to the form and to fiberglass work- I’m working on a project and would appreciate your advice!
With some nearly anonymous text, from hundreds of miles away, some many thousands, you've gotten some ideas and hope. The stringers would be glued (and possibly screwed) to the hull, and the deck beams would be glued and screwed to the stringers using epoxy and stainless steel screws.
A fair bit of detail isn't shown, such as the deck beams on the bulkheads, etc., but should give you a head start.
Combined with the bulkheads, deck beams, and the curve in the decking created by the crown, it should be light and strong.
It should be a nice place to sit, leaning against the aft bulkhead, with the tiller tucked under one arm. I could remove one or more of the hatch boards for ventilation and leave the deck hatch closed to keep out spray or rain, or on pleasant days open everything up. I had considered more crown in the deck, but was afraid it would make the deck appear hogged and the sheer more more straight than it already is. I guess what I'm trying to achieve is what you mentioned, a dry spot to duck into during a rain squall, and store the outboard, sails, etc., but I certainly place cockpit space at a premium. I raised it to 9", put a slight sweep in it, and it still looks like it could use some more. These should do nicely for that, cut into smaller pieces and glassed in place back to back.
I like the clean uncluttered look, and I'm only losing 8" of headroom in the center of the former cabin space. If using multiple layers of plywood to make this ring frame, then cant them in relationship to each others grain, say about 20 degrees. You implemented one of them, made some adjustments, then presto and ****, damn if it didn't look pretty good! The forward curve in the coaming straightens out at the foredeck to allow for an opening and hopefully doesn't eat up too much cockpit seating area. There is a watertight bulkhead below, that gets a bracket up against the deck, and thru bolted into another identical bracket up on deck, which accepts the bowtube clevis pin, one on each side of the bulkhead. I am squeamish about making something that permanent, but I can't figure any other practical way. I guess the best practice would be to wrap the pin in kevlar, and use a kevlar bushing inside the hinge? The area above the v-berth, which was never large, remains almost unchanged (basically sleeping or storage space). After all the feedback, it seems that it's either build a knock-off of the original deck and cabin (more complicated and costly) or build something simpler and one of a kind.
I'll try a couple of inches more, which would be great because it would provide more room under the deck. I tried in vain for months to locate an original deck for it, and even if I found one that didn't have core saturation problems, I would still have to replace all the bulkheads, the v-berth, the cabin and cockpit soles and the seats.
A foredeck hatch would provide light and ventilation, coupled with either hatch boards or cabinet style doors in the rear foredeck bulkhead, and I'm considering opening up the forepeak by using a ring frame instead of a solid bulkhead at the forward end of the v-berth.
I'm making progress, and hopefully the finished boat will be sturdy, functional, nice to look at, and most of all, enjoyable to sail and teach others to sail.
The hard part is coming so keep the fire in your belly, you'll need this support later when you've scratched yourself bald and are cursing in your sleep. There would be a 6" wide plywood king plank at the centerline of the deck, glued and screwed to the underside of the deck between beams.
I assume these would attach to the sheer clamps somewhere at the bow, or should I laminate and install a deck beam close to the bow of the boat to support their ends. By the time the rebuild is complete I doubt if anyone would recognize it as an Ensign anyway, especially if I replaced the reverse transom with a wood veneered counter stern.
Can you build a padeye around a plywood piece, encapsulate it etc, and have the same strength as aluminum or ss? I carried the same 4" crown from bow to stern, including the cockpit side decks, but decreased it slightly at the transom so that the rear deck slopes a little for drainage.
I assume that the cockpit carlins and the sheer clamps would support the 9" wide cockpit side decks. The rear seating area is something I enjoyed on a similar 21' Alberg design that I once owned. I am thinking of some sort of mandrel made up first, with a (wooden?) dowel, overlwrapped with fabric (uni?) , then maybe kevlar (?) Then slick it up and layup the hinges around it?? The boatyard owner (who had hauled it off at the request of the previous owner) was going to cut the keel off and mount the hull on a trailer as a Mardi Gras parade float. Unfortunately my hard drive crashed this weekend, and I think I've lost most of the pictures of the boat that were stored on it. I intend on carrying the lip of the deck out to overlay the hull flange and gluing this joint, then wrapping the cloth over the joint and down the hull a few inches.

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