For our next post, we share to you an Inspiration booster: 30 Fastidious Boat Logo Designs.
Join Over 120,000 Aspiring and Professional Graphic Designers who receive weekly tips and Freebies! Location: Kingston, UK Just to clarify, I'm referring to the process of creating flat templates for the planks from the full scale line drawings. Sorry if these are stupid questions but I'm new to boatbuilding and no-one seems to be able to tell me exactly how the actual build process works.
Location: Oriental, NC Gus, Here is a thread on another forum of a recent lapstrake build of mine. Once I have finished designing a hull in the software, I use the feature that creates a cutting pattern for each panel.
Every time I've designed a boat in my software and used its patterns like this, the results have been practically perfect. To lap the strakes I would simply cut them an inch or two wider than the patterns illustrate, depending upon how much I want them to overlap.
I did not know if you had actually done this to completion of a clinker boat from a computer program before. If I try lapping the panels I will probably still use pre-cut plywood strakes and epoxy filler instead of bevels at the joints.
Or I can put more time and effort into computer modeling and come up with precise patterns specifically for lapped strake construction. One of my concepts for the construction of a light weight lapped strake boat is to use thin plywood strakes, perhaps only 4mm or 5mm.
John Welsford designs boats with stringers installed first on bulkheads and frames, then his strakes are 'cut to fit' on top of the stringers, each one beveled to the next, with the stringers visible inside the hull. I would set up the bulkheads and frames on a strongback or on the keel if the boat has one, then alternate the installation of strakes and stringers -- install a strake first, then a stringer, then another strake, then another stringer, etc. In this type of construction the hull should be as self-fairing as in a strip planked boat.
Granted this is only a concept at the moment, but I can see no reason why it won't work, although I'm sure I will discover some issues the first time I try it. If a boat has no need for frames for strength, I see no reason to ever include them in its construction. Boats like Welsford's use few strakes and tend to show a thick lap at the turn of the bilge caused by the small radius there and thinner laps elsewhere. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. The image posted is of a jet-powered wingboat design (it extends the logic of the tunnel hull design to the point where the entire craft is lifted out of the water on an induced cushion of air).
Also, if someone has links to hydrodynamics, and the role of steps and chines in hull design, I would be greatful. Location: Gulf Coast You intended to take this as plane at the high speed runs. Location: Jamestown, RI, USA Peter T - I'll see your concerns about the nose falling, and raise you a pair of tailerons. From the positioning of the weights (visible) on this thang, I'd say that the nose will be fine, and the dynamics will take care of it. I haven't found any Tailless design stuff yet, but I know I have some, so I'll have a look over the next few days.


Location: Southern England These two sites are worth a look for extreme boats (and the Bladerunner) some of which are similar to the boat here.
Location: aus old design I am thinking of building a boat it would be made out of ply and has a deep V. Location: Southern England Probably ok, you could put in smaller frames between the current frames to sure up the structure. Location: Southern England Put in a forward crash bulkhead (half-way between the bow and the first frame), the rest looks ok.
You may want to think about building a model of it first out of cardstock to check the stiffness. Eventhough popsickle sticks may be a bit too thick for using cardstock, it should give you a rough gauge to withstand twisting. Location: Washington State This should give us something to sink our teeth into! Location: aus today i had a shot of making a model of the boat but i could not get the stem to work very good. Location: Washington State Building the model Glad to see your giving it a go! So, that's how I start a model, and maybe I shall take the plunge and build one alongside of you, that way, maybe questions can be answered more readily, for both of us.
Location: USA We recently had a cardboard boat race here - main difference was each boat needed at least two occupants.
Location: Western Massachusetts The race sponsors only say that the race will be out to, around the buoy and back, no idea what distance. Seems a good ploy would be to hide a high-performance hull under a bit of goofy-artsy decoration.
All my designs use readily available tools and materials and standard size sheets of corrugated paper cardboard. The Cardboard Boat Book is step-by-step instruction manual that teaches you how to build a small kayak style boat with recyclable resources using readily available tools and materials and standard size sheets of corrugated paper cardboard. Location: Beaufort, SC and H'ville, NC I have a standing team that convenes each Feb for the cardboard race in Key Largo Fl. It divides the lands and nations with its vast distance that made communication and travel dreadfully unattainable for a time.
We have collected some of the most creative logo designs of boats that can help you sail to your vast imagination and maybe arrive at land of great ideas for your next project. It takes more time and effort to go for this much detail in the software because each lap must be modeled individually, but it can be done.
A lot of the research has now been superseded or is irrelevent, but some may just throw in an alternative thought. That may answer quite a few of your questions, not to mention the ones that will show up when building the model. When I do this, it inevitably answers the many puzzling questions I had in the first place about the boat, and besides, you don't want to mess your article up with glue do ya?
I then place the plan sheet under a peice of wax paper, so as to avoid the glue thing again. If we get far enough towards completion, don't fall in love with it too much, cuz we will end up torturing it to test strength(or not depending on my destructive mood that day). If you can find a plant or importer near you, you might get a donation of a few large panels.


The boats simply fold up from cardboard obtaining their strength from the geometry of the component parts.
But as man’s ingenuity, desire to go the distance, and curiosity of the undiscovered lands grew, they have invented a way of transportation that pierced through the waves and horizon of the great sea. Looking at the forebody, it seems there is not sufficient cushion surface, neither a tunnel can help in a sharp bow configuration.
I have been a little harried with work projects, so I have not been able to do any work on updates.
About the rendering, I can get a little top brisk in my quick sketches Do you have any advice from your WIG experience?
It needs to be hydrodynamic enough to get over the hump drag and get the body airborne so that ground effects can come into play. They are mighty strong for something on the scale of model boats, and they are readily available. I wish I would have heard about it much sooner, the limited time frame will definitely affect what I do. They are 8-feet long, weigh about 25-pounds, and can accommodate a 250-pound person without risking structural damage.
It was the time when the boat was created was many discoveries and opportunities were achieved where it was impossible before. I beleive the class 1 boys use controllable vents in the wings, thereby reducing the pressure, bringing the bow back up. I can't even imagine what 300 horses would do to that poor plan set you posted for us to peek at.
I hope you like ice-cream, or you can usually find a sack of em' pretty cheap at a craft store. Each boat is constructed with 21 pieces of cardboard that are used to make 7 component parts. Since the early times, boats were already used for trade and transportation of goods to different nations and have aided in early expeditions and voyages in finding new lands and cultures. Also, I remember a book called 'Dhows to Deltas' I can't remember who wrote it, but it has now gone out of print. Hollow core interior doors also work, just not as well.(the pins loosen easily depending on the wood used for the door skin).
The 7 parts are assembled together with ?environmentally-friendly? contact cement and paper drywall tape.
Though I have access to a copy (for the next few weeks, so I'll have a look and post what I think may be useful. Once assembled the boats are sealed with an ?environmentally-friendly? water-based waterproof coating. Probably scan it and post it as a .zip file (the appropriate pages, that is, not the book).
If it worked in the sixties it probably still will, if it didn't it will still be a load of trouble, despite all the experts I wouldn't redesign the wheel unless I had too!



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