While searching the internet I stumbled on this forum and thought maybe someone can help me out. Sorry for rambling on, I wanted to get all the questions out there and give a little back ground of what I'm doing and where I'll be boating so I can get the best advice.
Pontoons » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Can anyone ID this boat make and model? When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Model Boat Hull Design Notes a€“ Building tips for hard chine and round-bilged hulls using planking or carving methods. Much of this page is a collection of free-floating thoughts, ideas and experience that I've collected over the years.
Different types and shapes of model boat hulls are more or less suited for certain types of construction. A planked hull has a number of bulkheads or frames, and a keel or keelson that form a structure. Probably the most often confused model boat hull designs are Plank-on-frame and Plank-on-bulkhead - strictly speaking, they are not the same thing. The "correct" way to plank a hull requires each board to be tapered towards the ends and sometimes stealers need to be used where necessary to close gaps. Here is a laminated hull block (AKA Bread-and-Butter) of USS Olympia ready to be carved and faired up to a smooth hull.
Traditionally woods, such as Mahogany, Balsa and Basswood, are the most frequently used materials, at least in North America. For Bread and Butter (aka Laminated hulls) there is a caveat: Laminating many thinner boards make the job of carving a lot easier, not only physically, but also visually, since there are more joints that help guide you find the true shape of the hull. Here is a list of the most common model boat hull designs that youa€™ll typically encounter. Most hard chine boats are either small to medium sized motor boats, such as launches, torpedo boats, speedboats or small and modest sized sail boats.
A round bilge hull can not be planked with sheets, but has to be either carved or strip planked. The benefit with a multihull over a monohull is that they achieve the same stability as a monohull but with less wave forming resistance, so they go faster with the same driving power. Items 1 20 of forty-nine Discount plank on ensnare wooden gravy boat model kits up to xliv off. Kits and model boat any gravy boat including many different types of Strip Wood Planking Plywood Balsa.
Location: malta Building 23 foot cabin cruiser I hope to start building a 23 foot cabin cruiser as a retirement project, using plywood on wooden frames.
I don't really feel comfortable of learning to epoxy that is why I want to stay with the old way of doing things. Location: Trondheim, NORWAY I am sure some others will share their personal experience with white oak. I can only say that the quality of the wood you find is often more important than the species. Location: Eustis, FL White oak is a fine frame material and most adhesives work well with it.
Laminating up frames from plywood, will make heavy frames to gain the strength the solid lumber will provide (pound for pound). Sapele and mahogany are similar in weight and strength, Iroko is dense stuff and I'd think you could do with a lighter frame material. The frame thickness should be listed on the plans (laminated ply versions), if not make them the same thickness of the solid wood frames. Location: malta Many thanks to both Ragnar and Par for your extremely prompt replies to my queries yesterday. Location: malta Alternative woods Further to my previous questions about building a 23 foot cabin cruiser. Secondly is there any formula for working out what the head room should be in cabin and wheelhouse? Anyway for now this is all from me as I have to get back to the internet and check some other things out. Location: Trondheim, NORWAY I am afraid it will look bad with standing headroom, but that's a matter of taste.
Location: Eustis, FL One of the most difficult aspects of design work, on small craft, is providing standing headroom. Another key issue that is common among backyard builders is adding weight, with changes to the design. Post a picture of your revised plans and we'll have a much better time of it, in as much as offering reasonable suggestions.
Location: malta update and drawings Sorry to all of you out there for taking so long to get back online, but family commitments had to come first and this is the earliest opportunity I have had to get back to my drawings.
Location: Trondheim, NORWAY The Blue Jacket's hullform looks more efficient!
In my never ending quest to hoard boat plans , I thought that I would pass this info I went to the web page and had a question but no way to contact. Location: Western Massachusetts Design for a Cardboard Boat Race Hi All! A sit-on kayak or surfboard style design made up of multiple laminations of cardboard with the center portion cut out of the upper layers to make a seating area for use with a kayak paddle.
As creativity and style may also help determine the winner, any crazy (yet doable) ideas out there? 4'x8' sheets of double corregated cardboard are typically available at cardboard supply houses. I know 4'x12' sheets of heavier construction double corregated are available, but must be ordered ahead of time, atleast around where I live.
I (and it's only my person feelings) think this looks like the best little single-sheet boat around. Guest625101138 Previous Member   If you want to go fast the best boat will be long and slender.
I would look at a central cylinder about 8ft long and 1ft in diameter with cones of similar length to form the bow and stern. The overall underwater form would not be a lot different to a rowing scull and it should go reasonably well.
Location: Western Massachusetts Thanks to all for your well-informed replies. How would you fashion the conical ends to keep them watertight and how would I gain access to the inside of the main tube to fasten the ends to it? I like the idea of the outriggers for stability but how far apart would they need to be to allow clearance for the paddle? If the cardboard wants to crease then place gentle longitudinal creases at about 2" spacing rather than letting it crease uncontrollably.


It really is better to make say a 4ft model out of light cardboard to understand the detail.
THis boat will be fully sealed internally so should not get wet inside until the outside gives up. Just because it is cardboard does not mean it cannot be well made and perform as good as a paddled rowing scull. Guest625101138 Previous Member   The seat will ned to be away from the cross-brace to allow full strokes. Guest625101138 Previous Member   The attached shows a cylinder and cone hull made from aluminium. A tail and dorsal fin behind the paddler might complete the picture as riding a menacing looking shark.
It would be handy to know if there are other people interested in taking the event seriously.
However, Phillip Bolger has published lines for at least one true lobster boat and for several boats of related model in his books, and they may be available for free in your local library.
Location: USA Low freeboard aft makes it easy to haul the lobster traps in.
Location: MX Contact Professional boatbuilding magazine, there is a good article with information about lobster boats, I don't remember the issue number, but I'm quite sure is very good and complete, they may be able to send you a copy. Originally Posted by CGN Contact Professional boatbuilding magazine, there is a good article with information about lobster boats, I don't remember the issue number, but I'm quite sure is very good and complete, they may be able to send you a copy. It has two tags on the back of the boat but they are faded and I can only make out the stamped numbers.
I have a jet drive that bolts onto the 70hp and I think the V bottom could be a little flatter but should work. The hull is typically a big part of your model boat building effort, especially for scratch-building.If judging from my own experience, most projects Ia€™ve abandoned were during the hull building phase, often because I didna€™t quite work out enough details at the hull design phase ahead of cutting and gluing.
Hopefully they'll help you succeed with your model by laying out different options for boat hull design and construction. Plank-on-frame mimics the way a full-size ship was built, from the way the frames are constructed, to the width and joints of each strip as it is planked. If the previous sentence was all Greek to you, then stick with plank-on-bulkhead.I've heard a general rule not to place bulkheads more than two inches (50 mm) apart. Other popular woods include Alder, Poplar, Yellow Pine, Cherry and Walnut.Some woods are less suitable, generally because they are either too hard or not particularly stable. Typically the lower part (under and including the bilge) are made up of a solid piece or laminated boards and, the sides are covered with sheets or strips of plywood, styrene, card stock or wood to form a complete hull.This method saves material and weight over straight Bread and Butter and is typically faster to build than a regular planked hull.
A long and narrow hull will be a lot easier to plank than one that is short and wide.Planking a round-bilge hull with sheet material, the way paper models often are constructed, is by all accounts a compromise. The most common are:Catamarans - two connected hulls of the same sizeTrimarans - three connected hulls, where the middle typically is larger than the other two. Your opinion is important, it will help future users to overcome the possible model limitations and imperfections. Results ane 18 of 119 Megahobby stocks and sells Wooden Ship Models Balsa Airplanes Pine Car Classic Wooden airplane Gliders model boats birdhouse. For over sixty years here at Dumas we have been providing the model boat and model plane partizan the largest selection of kits. Even with all the modern 3-D modeling useable from the various gravy holder figure package out I start with a cardstock theoretical account and then go to a balsa wood At Wonderland Models our wooden. I bought the original plans from Hartley Boats about 8 years ago and in their booklet they mention that frames should be made of Iroko, mahogany or sapele, or they can be made up of laminated plywood.
This is an option, but you'll like cutting them from solid stock better then gluing up bits and pieces of plywood and it will look a bunch better too. You have both given me things to ponder over and I will spend some of my time today on the internet checking weights and density of different woods. I don?t know exact formula for calculating the headroom, but standing headroom on 23 fts boat looks too much. Many tricks can be employed, built down garboards, hollow keel wells, raised or broken sheer, etc.
Small craft are very weight sensitive and seemingly small additions can alter the trim and balance of a boat. I have enclosed two drawings of the proposed cabin cruiser I would like to build, so that those of you out there in the know can give me some advice whether they are workable or not. The edges of the laminated cardboard could be sealed using white glue (exterior if possible) covered by a wide strip of suitable tape (what kind would be best?).
I guess my original idea was bad in that it would have several long edges of the cardboard (although taped) below the waterline. So I would sit atop the central tube facing forward with my feet held above the water in rope stirrups?
It will be better to form the cylinder in its preferred direction of folding but with the cones you will have to work a little across the corrugations. Rick, could you do a quick sketch to demonstrate the relationship of the parts with the tabs?
I usually boat around larger lakes with small chop, sometimes the waves get to be around 2'-3' but not that often. Once planks are laid or chips carved, it's often difficult to go back and make corrections.Some of my abandoned efforts also came s a result of snags I'd been unable to see before starting out.
Some may say casting is another method to create a model, and I agree that is true to a point.
In the end, some hull planking is often left off to show the arrangement and construction of the frames. Ia€™ve seen exceptions to this a€“ for instance: most Glynn Guest designs rarely have more than two or three bulkheads over a 30 to 40 inch length. It's relatively common for semi-scale working models where there is more leeway in regards to accurate representation.A hybrid built approach is especially suited for large warships, cargo ships, tankers and the like, where the sides are flat or near flat. The time saved is two-fold: less bulkheads to cut out and line up and only a couple of strakes of planking. Good examples are the Elco PT boats and many launches and motor torpedo boats by Vosper and others. You also see build logs in forums, often scratch-builds, done this way with styrene sheet.In this method the fitted panel span only between two bulkheads, the keelson and to a false deck at waterline (for instance).
Also, the more bulkheads and closer together, the smoother the result.For late 19th and 20th century steel hulls, Ia€™d use solid blocks at the extremes whenever suitable.
My gravy boat physical body resembling the awing curves of the riva completely plans How to work up type A Model Ship CHRIS CRAFT CONSTELLATION IN.
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In your area there should be a wood that has reasonable rot resistance and a dry weight around 40 pounds per cubic foot.


I know this might sound like a rather stupid question, but the on the plans I have, a hole is left in the roof of the cabin for the helmsman to stick his head out of. Personally I will stick to the original design, since such small boats didn?t tolerate many changes. On 23' power craft, it's extremely difficult to produce a handsome vessel, that has standing headroom, without the pilothouse looking tall, boxy or generally out of proportion.
Changing a runabout to a cabin cruiser for example, may place enough weight forward, that she can never be expected to lift her bow clear and plane off, without a huge HP increase (which may strain the structure past her limits). I would much rather have a little disappointment now, rather than half way through the build. I thought of using the kayak paddle as it on hand and I thought it would be simpler than trying to fabricate oarlocks that would be sturdy enough to last. One of my main concerns would be how to fasten it together; staples wouldn't be much good unless I had access to the back side to clench them. I did not include that as a separate category, since the master (or plug), most likely, has to be created from one of the methods mentioned above. American Beech is unsuitable, first because it is very hard, and secondly it is not stable and seems to have a mind of its own (warps).All said, there is no reason foam materials could not be used, such as polystyrene or "hard" polyurethane. This method typically leaves more room for running hardware, motors and RC gear than you'd see in a B&B hull.
The side and bottom panels on these boats are actually scalloped (or concave) when looking at the original hull sections. Ita€™s a convenient solution for paper or styrene, but it's difficult to finish into a true and smooth hull this way. It is very difficult to get plank strips to form that sharp entry of a full size vessel a€“ it always end up blunt. Generally associated with sailing vessels of the Pacific Islands.Multihulled vessels are built for speed and economy.
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Tissue and skunk is angstrom tried and true and true way to seal of approval balsa model boat hulls while adding strength.
The two mahoganies you listed are just over and under 40 pounds and the oak is 46 or heavier, with the iroko being over 50 if memory serves me (I didn't look it up). I have re-drawn the plans and made standing headroom in the cabin, with the helmsman having to stand on a raised platform in the wheelhouse. Now this may not be the case with your boat, but changes have to be well thought out and the weight accounted for.
But in order to win the overall prize I need to get creative with the above waterline shape and graphics. I also picked up another aluminum before buying this one and I'm not sure which one to go with. Hopefully, these notes will help you avoid repeating my mistakes and increase your odds of successfully finishing your hull.I suppose this page can also be helpful in reviewing different types of kit constructions and the various hull materials used.
It had plywood bulkheads about 4-5 inches apart and planked with 3mm basswood strips.When all else fail, heat and moisture can make strips bend easier. These materials are commonly used when making surfboards for instance.One big benefit to a carved method is that there is very little stress and tension in the structure to contend with during the construction process, as opposed to those in any of the planked methods. Using blocks at the stern youa€™ll bypass the headache of tight bends and awkwardly tapered strips. Transport modeling is angstrom popular sideline sailboats warships passee vessels simply what. You'll be looking for a tight and straight grained species between 38 to 46 pounds per cubic foot, that ideally should be rift or quarter sawn, knot free (or near so) and have good rot resistance.
If any body can give me some sound advice on this I will even post a picture of my updated plans to help them out.
Sometimes this can be hidden with a cove stripe or second, lower rub rail, but many design styles can't tolerate this treatment without having other aesthetic issues crop up. So this series of bulkheads make up a frame that has folded gluing tabs to bond to the skin. Tomorrow I will look for cardboard and contact ROCK 102 and the local Miller Distributor for decals or stickers.
In a nutshell, this is meant to be a road-map for anyone curious about model boat hull design options. Bulkheads are often made of plywood and spaced much further apart than the frames in the plank-on-frame method.
Since the strips are now forced to take a shape, youa€™ve got to watch and make sure it follows the true shape of the hull.Some material bend easier than others. Therefore the need to rigidly hold the hull during construction is merely a matter of convenience rather than necessity. If youa€™re looking for easy, look for a straight shear line (where the deck meets the upper part of the hull) or another flat plane that can be laid flat on your building surface. Naturally, this is not an option if the planking is exposed, but works great for hulls that are painted.Whenever scale appearance comes second to simplicity, some round bilge hulls can be simplified by converting them to some form of hard chine design.
Some small to medium sized passenger ferries have been designed with multihulls for speed and economy. Large ships for instance, can often be built up with balsa or basswood sheet of appropriate dimensions and sanded to take on a more rounded shape.
A hull that has a noticeable twist in it is often beyond saving.The kit manufacturer Billing have kits that are built one half at a time and later assembled. The thicker the planking, the more material will be available to form a rounded bilge and other joints. The worst ones are softwoods such as Spruce, Cedar and Pine.I advice against using metal nails for fasteners. Metal nails are a nuisance when it comes to sanding the hull a€“ theya€™ll cut your fingertips.
If you read or hear that term, run the other way.The thinner the planking material, the better it takes a bend, and the less stress it puts on the structure as a whole. On the downside, thin material need more support, so more frames or bulkheads are needed and placed closer together. A better option is to make treenails and peg the strips in place.For appropriate sized model boats, staples can be used, but they tend to beat up the wood pretty bad and sometimes split the strips. Not a big deal if the hull is to be Bondo-ed, fiber-glassed and painted.The featured RC PT boat is a good example of a simplified hull being planked with sheet (balsa in this instance) for easy construction.



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