Location: Minneapolis,MN, USA Just found another Gary's site that Chris had in a different thread. There are some colorful swim toys that are nothing more than a poly-type foam tube that has a center hole running through it.
As a side view, from the first 45 degree bend the tubbing also droped down at about a 45 degree bend just above the water line. I cut the foam just to trim the leading edge going up just for looks, as the full foam tube was around the bend that entered the water.
I could adjust the pitch of the stablizer using the wing nuts, raising and lowering both as needed. Location: Minneapolis,MN, USA Thank you Wave, as I think this over the design becomes either very simple or very complex.
Location: Minneapolis,MN, USA Yipster, I have a good waterproof container that floats.
With bungee cord mount they are fast and easy to remove, and if you should accidentally run into anything (like a dock) they give easily to prevent damage.
Simple and effective, you do not need a lot of beam width to give a lot of added stablity, I would test this with perhaps a 5 ft long board, and test it with bleach bottles, or 1 liter beverage bottles, duck taped to the ends. Scroll down to seconded from last picture, there is child's kayak with foam outriggers picture (blue kayak, orange floats).
BTW, my daughter (in the lavender wetsuit) is the one holding the clear plastic wrapped kayak, it is a simple and cheap way to test a new hull design before you put the permanent skin on it. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada The simplest and least obtrusive way to stabilise a canoe is to tie an inflated bag on the end of a paddle and lash it to the thwart. For a deluxe setup, get 2 of them and get a long pole so you can have one on each side and still paddle. For another task I made a neat telescopic pole using aluminum tubing sold for radio antennas; plastic spring retainers for attaching two tubes together are available at swimming pool stores, which also sell nice telescopic handles for cleaning a pool. At the shop they didn't seem to know where the training wheels had come from other than they thought it might have been made by someone in Fla. I don't think the shop has any more, but I'd sure like to find the person who was originally responsible for the idea. Location: Vancouver Island I just built a couple light weight occume vee shaped double ended outriggers, four feet long and will try one out tomorrow on a kayak. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Of course if I still had my 17ft Newfoundland sealing skiff from Chappell's American Small Sailing Craft.
Location: Eustis, FL Maybe a larger Pea Pod would be a better choice, but having a boat that can take most eventuality, most of which will never occur, while you're aboard is just a burden that your crews arms will have to bear.
Sam and Moe are correct, much more then the boat is responsible for getting you home, when the weather takes a dump on you. Location: Eustis, FL Frank you've been asked not to post photos of my basement activities (only on the weekends).
Location: Australia I recall as a kid seeing beach seine netters using rowed net dinghies ( maybe 18-20 feet) to run their net around schools of mullet or tailor (bluefish in the USA), but the surf had to be a lot more manageable than 8 feet, even half that would have been out of the question. Location: Georgia Not directly related to the requirements of the OP, but this thread reminded me of the picture of Chris Duff rowing his modified Merry Wherry Two through the surf during trials at Crescent Bay. Location: Eustis, FL Once you remove the heavy seas aspect of the requirements, your options open up tremendously. Location: Australia Keep it narrow for easy propulsion, and away from breaking waves, they'll kill it.
Location: Coastal Georgia A problem with multiple rowers might be getting multiple rowers that will have the time or inclination to go out when you want to or even want go out at all. This inspired me to try to sail my hydrofoil trimaran (Broomstick) without its amas (floats).
There were some awkward moments (Photo #1), but as soon as the boat had any forward motion at all, it was surprisingly easy to sail. I did let my guard down one time & capsized, for only the second time ever ( Photo #4). One final question - If I'm sailing without amas, can I still call it a hydrofoil trimaran?
Chris Ostlind Previous Member   Who was the idiot who said we get more timid as we grow older?
Very interesting development and now begging for even more design mods, such as a bit more aka clearance and that will most likely necessitate longer foils. Does the gustiness potential there make for a higher premium on athleticism while trying to keep her upright at the start?


My regular email is: Chris at Wedgesail dot com drop me a line with your number and I'll shoot you a call. Since it only takes a minute or two to attach or remove the amas, I can have them on the beach & decide at the last instant whether the conditions are such that I feel like I need them. I don't consider this to be very athletic - not nearly as much as the 1960-era Moths or the 1970-era Windsurfers I used to sail (even factoring in my ages, then & now).
Location: auckland nz brave man and true foiler Fanbloodytastic Doug, you're a better man than I am Gungha Din.
Another pioneer was kiwi Noel Fuller who had triangular float foils that thickened above the water on his 14 foot Sabrina - those foils worked well, didn't bury but Sabrina was not a good windward performer - but reached along impressively enveloped in spray with the doughty bearded designer hidden from sight by a curtain of white.
There have actually been quite a few foilers that were essentially trimarans without amas (I repeat, can we still call them trimarans?). Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada Interesting to note your experience without the amas, Doug (H). Location: Cocoa Beach, Florida Gary, what do you think causes the crashing?
Location: auckland nz Forgot to mention - Inverted T rudder saved my bacon, kept stern down, otherwise I'd have gone helicoptering horizon sudden climb, pause, silence, blue wave swept sea suddenly above head, lots of bubbles.
I have been doing more and more photography from my canoes and my equipment is getting much more expensive.
Then we just happened to stop by a little canoe shop on the west coast of Florida and found this rig in the storeroom. A poorly suit craft can find it's way, with a good skipper and crew, while a well suited vessel will founder with an inexperienced skipper. In more recent times they would use an inboard motor turning a prop inside a small tunnel, but the idea of traversing high surf would not be countenanced. If there was a heavy sea(4 to 6 ft) rolling,only the young daredevils would choose to launch. Now I just need a small militia to help with the rowing:-) it looks like the oceanic rowing boats are like a dory or seaybright with aerodynamic cabins for flotation and shelter.
Having minute by minute updates, just means you have to pay attention or setup some alarms.
Douglas Fir keel and laminated stem.  This ship was designed for a Turkish yacht club interested in group training.
In my case, I didn't have to build or modify anything; the amas that I use in foiling mode simply attach to the crossbeams with bungee cord. This plan quickly fell apart when I ran into a giant kelp bed (or some kind of weed anyway) & had to spend several minutes in all sorts of odd positions to remove all the weed. This project has probably been the most fun of any I've been involved in, and it's gratifying when someone else takes notice. For now, I'll probably use the amas if the wind is over about 18-20 knots, or if I'll be measuring the wind, taking many notes, etc. Blue Arrow was designed by a group with Ed Dubois, Adrian Thompson, Barry Noble and other British hotshots - definitely breaking new ground. This boat won a speed-trial at Hurricane Gulch, CA in about 1972, beating the notable D-Cat Beowulf.
My first venture into sailing, apart from the odd rented or borrowed boat, was a sailing canoe with a single home-designed and built ama. I had a look through that thread & this video link wasn't on it, so I thought I would share it. Elliott 6m are ideal for use in class racing, match racing, open racing, yacht club programmes, keelboat training, youth development.
At each side there was a 45 degree bend about 18" away from the boat and then another 45 degree bend aft, then straight back almost 3 feet. My tubbing did bend a little, from sailing and burrying the tubes and would have to adjust it ever so often, should have used stronger tubbing. Ideally they would be high off the water when traveling and in contact with the water when the added stability is needed. I expect to play around with various configs to see what seems to provide the maximum stability with the least drag, wind resistance, and so on.
Simply put, people give certain boat types reputations, which usually belongs to the breed of skipper that maned them, more so than that particular hull form. Those that stayed ashore would help launch those that dared to go' if for nothing else than a good laugh. Navigation and weather prediction have made huge advances in the last two decades, so frankly the only excuse is you screwed up. Sometimes I think that the best solution might be to run the foils through wells in the amas (like on Gary Baigent's Flash Harry) to give them something more substantial to bear against.


The other time I capsized was in the middle of November, 2005 & it was plenty cold (at least by California standards).
Hey you blokes, tell us more about it - doesn't matter that it was considered a dismal failure, there are plenty of us out here who want to know. I was careful to keep the ama wet at all times assuming that was the thing to do, and was consistently disappointed with the pedestrian performance.
Also the loads were so high one of the foils started spitting its carbon off during continuous flying, then crashing, didn't break but looked very secondhand when removed later. Foils are surface piercers, (like small Hydroptere) inverted T's or Y's are better IMO - I've fitted them to G. One thing that bugs me a bit is the wide diffetence between a good boat for four and a good boat for one. Maybe two abreast rower positions, so you can keep the 4 man team, though this could cause issues as a solo.
Don't get me wrong, a crew can find itself weather impacted, but not those rowing near shore.
I would have expected a smaller improvement, since I'm only eliminating 20 lbs of weight (out of about 200 total, not counting my weight) and also a small amount of windage. It seems that maybe we'd have to make a judgement about the size of the buoyancy at the end of the "racks"? It was my introduction into just how much drag a short and badly-designed displacement ama could create. So making a few changes on Harry, going to inverted Y foils to reduce the bloody crashing, keeping the floats, sorry, empirical knowledge overpowering pitiful attempts at valour, full width main sheet track (to better control a completely overpowered sail and rig) and various other improvements. Marx and I really like them, greater lift, less ventilation and require less surface area too.
When I want to move on I just open the valve, let out the air and springs would retract the amas.
They really are more like training wheels than outriggers in that they rarely touch the water unless you get way out of shape.
The problem with a 4 man boat is if the rowers are tandem, it's a long boat, for all the elbows and knees, making for a tough boat to solo, simply because of it's size. This doesn't mean you need a radar dome, but an app would be a real good idea, if venturing farther from shore then you can swim back to.
Apparently, the extra drag of the leeward ama when it is deeply immersed is a more powerful factor than the extra righting moment that it provides. It must have been a real bear to sail (unlike Broomstick, which is actually quite easy, even without the amas).
I had to reduce them because I had too much lift and the platform (which has some dihedral) would begin to rock - but now it is steady.
I have every intention of choosing conditions cautiously, but I don't want to be caught unprepared and offgaurd. What do you think of using a whitehaul or long peapod with generous floatation decking and flare.
2 abreast positions, means as a solo it's shorter, but now solo seating may be difficult to arrange and different oars are probable as well, just to have the reach necessary. The idea is a practical rowboat for daytrips offshore that is safe beyond the worst I want to see. Perhaps changing the ocupancy to one or two would allow for a smaller boat that would be easier to manage. One or two fishermen (depending on the normal crew of that particular boat) would get into the dory and at the right timing three of four hangashores would push like hell.
You had to launch just before the surf started it's retreat otherwise you would run out of water and be a sitting duck for the next on rush of foaming sea which generally drove the boat sideways and fill it to the gunnels or worst yet drag it out with the outgoing surf and roll it over on the next incoming sea.
If timed right the outgoing surf along with the occupant(s) rowing like a mad man got the 600 to 800 lb. If not you usually got half filled with water and spun sideways and you best get her pointy end homeward bound, row like hell and be ready for a wet rough landing.
The laughing pissing in their pants boys on the beach were always ready with rollers and a helping hand to save your ***.
Those were the days of true water sports, I think we were a bunch of crazy risk taking fools but as I type, what great memories.



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