Location: Adriatic sea Simple wiring diagram for small craft Regularly I've seen questions on this forum about electrical wiring because that is still a mystery for many boat owners. Here is a simple wiring diagram for motor- and sailing boats with one engine and just the basic equipment.
Boat owners who have no idea what this all means should of course hire a qualified technician!
I once, somewhere suggested automatic 12 vdc diode light in the engine compartment, biwired together with the bilge pump. Location: Okinawa, Japan Dry Boat My wiring is inside of a closed compartment and the boat is very dry. Originally Posted by Delane My wiring is inside of a closed compartment and the boat is very dry. Originally Posted by CDK Regularly I've seen questions on this forum about electrical wiring because that is still a mystery for many boat owners.
Originally Posted by BeauVrolyk I am curious why you've used both circuit breakers and fuses.
Beau No, I used switches and fuses, but of course you could also take automatic circuit breakers if you don't mind the extra cost.
Because this post was only meant to help people getting started, I did not supply detailed info.
Fuses are absolutely necessary to protect your safety, but with proper, careful wiring they should never do what they are designed for: blow.
Location: Outer Hebrides, Scotland CDK, can I ask what the box at the bottom left of your drawing is?
There are only 7 wires connecting it to the rest of electrical parts that is located elsewhere on board, i.e. I've wondered about taking common cheap ac switches like Delane used and attaching pigtails potting them with epoxy. Location: Milwaukee, WI If you have fuel onboard, those switches are not spark protected.


When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. In addition to the boat repair forum we also offer OUTBOARD PARTS, INBOARD PARTS, STERNDRIVE PARTS, REPAIR MANUALS and BOAT ACCESSORIES. Hi all, Does anyone have a scanned copy of the Yamaha 703 Control box manual, specifically the wiring diagram or a complete manual. Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.
Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today. As posted by arf above, I very much doubt your wiring is close to original after several decades. If you have the original manual that came with the boat it has a simple drawing describing the original electrical layout. It would also be good to decide whether you're planning to route all charging sources to the house battery bank and use some sort of automatic charging device (like an EchoCharge or DuoCharge or other) to maintain the start battery, since that decision impacts on much of the heavy DC wiring. The starter ground (cold) is either by a band holding it in place, another screw on the case, or a jumper wire from a screw on the case to the battery -.
The solenoid usually has 2 small terminals and usually it doesn't matter which is hot and which is cold. Wire the switch in series from 12v (hot connection anywhere) through the switch to the other small terminal on the solenoid. The old Mariner is doing great, but last evening while running down the lake, everytime I hit the trim button the tachometer would jump. Parts like the diode bridge and 4-way battery switch are available from Vetus in Europe, I did not look for US suppliers. You are invited to join our public Boat Repair Forum to seek assistance from other members.
Like I said we don't know much about inboards what are something to watchout for on this set ups?


Is there an up-to-date wiring plan in the form of something like the attached link posted by maccauley123? It is confusing, the bilge pump is after the main switch when it should have power when the switch is off, the negatives are not clearly defined, and I don't think his second switch is necessary.
I virtually never ask for or look at an original schematic when working on a boat - they are seldom accurate.
In addition to what he said, the wiring size from the batteries and, especially, between the switch and the panel is too small, and the 100A fuses are too small since they're effectively in the starting circuit. For 100 amps intermittent, which should be adequate to start that engine, and a short run, 4 AWG all the way for hot and cold. The automotive type with knife contacts costs only a few cents and makes reliable contact with a socket or crimp terminal. Glass fuses in a fuse holder are very unreliable in a marine environment but you already found that out.
The wiring for nav lights and feed to the mast should be 12 awg but it is easy to figure out with the link above. The better way is to routs all charging, from any source, to the house bank and charge the start battery with an Echo Charge or ACR. Fuse at the battery for this and fuse the main battery feeds as close to the batteries as possible - ABYC calls for 7" but that isn't always possible.
The panel feed wire should be able to handle the entire panel's load with 3% voltage drop or less.



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